Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About tristan

  • Rank
  • Birthday July 12

Previous Fields

  • Car
    1996, 626, 2.0L, MTX

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Location
  1. My clutch pedal suddenly stops much higher than it used to and I got a bunch of broken plastic in my footwell. My mechanic tells me I need at least two bushings to replace, the problem is he can not source them anywhere. Please, anybody who has done clutch pedal maintenance let me know where you sourced parts or what did you modify to make it work. Have you used bushings from other Mazda or any other make or model and they worked?? I would hate to have to buy a new car just because I could not find 7 $ worth of plastic parts..... Thank you for all the ideas!
  2. I had similar issue few years ago in my 626. Replacing the clutch master cylinder fixed the problem. Hope this helps.
  3. Do they want the specifications of as new car emissions or how clean your car is right now? You can try to find the level of 'clean' of your car and use these specifications. I have mine measured every 2 years (California) and they are very small numbers e.g. 0.1 mg/L CO, etc. They also change between measurements as well. For example a ULEV-2 would have a certain level of these pollutant, SULEV will have other, etc. I found on the net that your model is ULEV. I hope this helps.
  4. I have a problem that puzzles me a lot lately. My MTX '96 has a fairly new clutch disk and all the hardware that goes with it(10-15 k old) . Recently I notice that my pedal has little resistance in the top 1.5 in. of travel and its feels movement feels 'grainy' when close to the floor, rather than smooth as usual. It also ocassionally makes an unplesant squeky sound (like a door rarely lubricated) when the pedal is in the low range close to the floor and the pedal returns slower than my foot, when I release the clutch (I do not do it really fast and take it easy in general). At the same time
  5. It depends where it is squeaky. In my car it gets squeaky inside the cabin where there is some metal-metal rubbing when I pressed and especially when I released the pedal (It sounded like a rusty chain pulling, pretty nasty). One of the Mazda dealership technician showed me how to fix it with some bike lubricant so now I do it myself. If you look down at the pedals you can see where the rubbing occurs and you just spray there. The squeak disappears instantly! Interestingly, I had it come back only in the winter.
  6. I agree- if you buy new rotors there is a certain chance they are warped out of the box.
  7. Have the rear brakes inspected for not fully releasing. Pull the hand brake a little while driving and see if it increases the noise- if yes, your brakes are touching the drums, if not your problem is elsewhere.
  8. Yes this is the first thing to try if you have this shuddering problem while driving-check balance and alignment. Usually out of balance tires vibration increases with speed significantly- the faster you go, the more pronounced you get. If the problem persist you may want to have the brakes and the suspension checked for wear.
  9. I think you have two choices. The obvious one is that you need a new catalytic converter. The other choice is to drive your car on a fairly long high way trip to clean up the catalyst as much as possible and try again- no guarantee to work. Considering by how much you are failing, I' d say go for the new catalyst. Last time I could not pass because of a 102 reading on hydrocarbon (100 is the max allowed here).
  10. Use a sharp plastic object and pray it out, gently so you do not get paint scraped. It is being held there by metallic plates that expand while installed.
  11. I believe you can use brake cleaner.
  12. 1996 DX MTX with just over 155K. Runs like a clockwork occasionally visiting 5000 rpm without sweat and great engine sound. No serious issues, yet. Typical maintenance- new radiator, clutch, struts, couple of engine mounts, new exhaust and catalyst (living in CA )etc. Only once a head gasket problem due to faulty PCV valve. Fixed fully and cheaply. Some upgrades to make it more fun (not necessary fixes)- 16 in., wheels, Ultra high performance tires, Eibach springs, decent headlight bulbs. Planning to get at least another 2-4 years out of it. I want to give Mazda a chance to get the n
  13. I got my Xtreme lights from Oereplacement.com for like 40 $. They are halogen lights, they are not xenon or anything like that. My car has stock headlights which are 9006. They just so happens to be the best lights I have put on my car. I did consider the JP spec headlights but I do not want to go through the expense and the hassle.
  14. I wanted to share my experience with the new bulbs I bought recently- the Phillips Xtreme power. I was looking around for a worthy replacement of the last Sylvanya Siverstar Ultra. I have been a very loyal customer of the Silverstar brand and they left me wanting for more, especially longevity wise. The original Silverstars barely lasted a year, the ultras ~2. The light was way better than stock, but nothing special. Found online claim of the new 'brightest halogen bulb'. Well, as far as I am concerned I do not really care how long these bulbs last- they are superb. Now my car feels very co
  15. The best fuel economy is achieved before air resistance becomes a factor (45-55 mph) which is held as stable as possible, in top gear and with properly maintained car especially tires and alignment. Best if done with cruise control for those who have it. This is true for pretty much every car out there. As far as practical use is concerned I have achieved 36 mpg once when I was forced to drive at 50 mph from the relatively twisty road and other cars. Once I get to 65-75 mph the mileage is 33-34 mpg.
  • Create New...