djdevon3

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About djdevon3

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  • Birthday 10/01/1978

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  • Car
    1995 626 LX 2.0L Manual Swap

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    http://www.youtube.com/djdevon3
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    Florida
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    http://www.cardomain.com/id/djdevon3

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  1. Not car related by some of the electrical theory can be applied to an ignition switch. Also some soldering tricks and tips in there. Interesting PC mod. I had a lot of fun doing the mod. Forgot how much work it was to record, edit, and render.
  2. Generally people want to go from auto to manual not manual to auto. Weird request but I'll help detail the parts. 1. Automatic ECU 2. Automatic shift mechanism (you'll want to find a donor or junkyard donor to pull most parts from like this one) 3. Automatic transmission including torque converter (best to get one from another 1999 year model exactly for best compatibility of wiring pins as they do change year to year) 4. Automatic Transmission Range Switch and Turbine Speed Sensor (if not included on the transmission) 5. Instrument cluster (for PRNDL indicator) 6. Automatic axles (if ABS equipped you must get ABS axles) 7. Automatic engine/transmission wiring harness 8. Joint Box & CPU (better safe than sorry grab it and all the cabin wiring) There will be other little things here and there you might need too that's all I can think about off the top of my head. You could watch my entire video series on converting a manual to automatic, just watch it in reverse?
  3. There can be some crossover but most of the time it's just a misunderstanding of an owner not realizing the true year of production of their vehicle. If it's included in the VIN page for the 96 WSM then it applies to you. :)
  4. I give the Murano like 5 degrees of throttle just a feather touch and it's like I'm flooring it in my 626. Feather weight throttle kills my ankle just trying to keep it at a steady speed. Engine sounds the same at 20 as 70 at low throttle. Hard to judge speed from engine sound like I'm used to... not a good thing for speeding. Constantly find myself going much faster than I want even when trying to do the speed limit. Will take a while to adjust. Brakes are also like race brakes, they feel like they want to lock up while attempting moderate braking. I can understand why it was in a front end collision now. Brakes are not linear with long brake pedal travel length like the 626. The braking curve from slow to lock up happens way to quick with minimal pedal travel. Feeling much better thanks. Doc put me on 3 weeks of broad spectrum antibiotics. Went back and he put me on another MONTH of antibiotics. Not leaking puss out of my head or ears anymore. Feeling better. I had to reformat my PC so lost all of my settings. Expect the first video compression to look like shit, have to dial in all my quality settings in premiere again. Will be shooting it tomorrow. Should be interesting for just about anyone that owns a PC that has kids that love to press power buttons while you're typing out an essay. Lock down physical power to a PC with a key. It's an issue I have to deal with and there are no videos about it online so I was like ohh something new that no one has ever covered, right up my alley. Now that I'm feeling better I've been cleaning up a lot lately too, more hygienic, feeling like a human being again. I'm still dizzy a lot though and feel like I have water in my ears that I can't get out. Equilibrium is bad. I'll talk with doc next time about that. I'm still pissed that this site seems to get harder and harder to use with every update. Grrrr it's frustrating compared to how it used to be a couple years ago.
  5. That's a very common occurrence. Can't count how many guys on this forum have gone to fix intake issues only to find they've swapped vacuum lines. Happens to fuel lines too for people changing the fuel filter. Happens all the time. Glad you got it solved. I'll assume your STFT and LTFT are back down to acceptable levels?
  6. Unfortunately no. I did shoot some carb cleaner in the intake and it started right up. Definitely a fuel supply issue. In the mean time I plan on doing so PC related videos such as modding, soldering, etc.. but that requires the camera to be much closer. One of the downsides of my old setup was the camera mounted on a shelf about 2' above the bench. Kinda realized in my last video that filming from so far away was pointless for fine detail work. So I wanted to create an inexpensive rig to lower and raise the camera when needed. This is what I came up with. Fully lowered camera Fully Raised Camera With halogen light on. What I see while filming. Planning on shooting a video for modding a PC case to remove the power button and use an ignition switch instead. Yes, a keyed ignition switch for a PC. Just to clarify it's a PC keyed switch not an automotive ignition switch. Looking forward to making a video again with my new benchtop.
  7. Sounds like a faulty switch to me however a short in the switch wiring could cause a similar result. Inspect all the wiring from the switch and look for rubbed through wires potentially causing a short. If everything looks ok then attempt to bypass the switch (I will never provide advice on how to do that as it can be used illegally). Look in the WSM for switch diagnostic procedures from pmx626.info in the body electrical troubleshooting manual (BETM).
  8. This shit is annoying as F***. I edit most of my posts like 20 times in 5 minutes as I'm hashing out ideas. To not be allowed to edit a post immediately after I post is gonna make me not come back here. Completely unacceptable.
  9. Gotta start with the basics guys. Spark test when the condition happens. Buy a spark tester from any autostore for like $5 and throw it in the glove box. Look up the procedure for testing the fuel pump, throw a multimeter and some jumper wire in the glove box. Most of the basic tests you can actually do on the side of the road to get a basic diagnosis of air, fuel, or spark. Without knowing which one is failing you'll be left guessing and shotgunning parts at the problem. Intermittent overheat of an individual component such as a failing fuel pump or coilpack does suck and is tedious to troubleshoot over time. If you can reliably replicate the condition where it fails then that's your golden moment to start running tests. By the way just an idea that none of you have considered, an injector over heating and shorting out. I've seen it. Watch the episode on ScannerDanner where he uses snow to cool down the injector to get the car running again. The resistance on the injector was perfectly fine during idle but under load for a bit the temp rises and the injector resistance went to infinity as the car shuts off. Don't ask me what the exact video is I can't remember... but I'll never forget that lesson. Was amazing to see him run outside, grab a hand full of snow, and throw it on the injector to keep it cool and the car running. Brilliant man.
  10. I skimmed through so sorry if you already mentioned this but does the coolant temp show the engine is overheating? Where about is the temp needle when it shuts off?
  11. Depends if either vehicle has immobilizer equipped ECU. Preferably you would swap the engine, wiring harness, fusebox, CPU (jointbox), ECU and if applicable coded keys, to do a proper job. Otherwise the ECU pinouts are different and possibility to fry something when you attach the battery and power everything for the first time. I will not touch anything with an immobilizer system on it. Others here have done it before for a 5th gen swap. They know how and you'll really want to do your homework by searching the crap out of this forum and get in touch with them.
  12. Well umm it's been a while. Car went through the hurricane unscathed, not a scratch. Kinda wish it would have broken a window at least to get something worked on. It's growing mold all over the car again. Recognizer has a no-start and I suspect the TRS or Fuel Pump. I don't have the garage space to work on it. My driveway has a serious grade to it so I can't jack it up even if I wanted to where it's at. Traded in the POS Saturn today for a 2010 Nissan Murano. Interior is beautiful and well designed. Everyone here knows I have a thing about cupholders, who wouldn't after owning a 626. The cupholders are great, easy to access and won't spill. Engine bay has some good room to work in though some of the intake is stuffed behind the cowling and hard to access like most minivans or SUV's. It's to replace the grandma mobile Saturn that was literally falling apart. When it rained her door would fill with water and play havoc with the BCM sometimes. AC didn't work. I got a junkyard compressor replacement but no way to evacuate, so it just sat in my garage. It was burning oil, misfiring, and I didn't care to do a rebuild. Just a matter of time before it ran out of oil and burned up. Most of the doors had mechanical issues, stabilizer bushings blown, control arm bushings blown, CV joint blown, it was a mess. I couldn't fix the issues because that purple V6 626 is still in my garage with the engine out sigh. Got scrap value as a trade in and was happy just to get that. The best part of the Murano I didn't find out until I got home and looked up all the specs; the engine is a de-tuned Nissan 350z engine with 240HP. I had NO idea. Yes I gunned it on the way home and it had more power than I was comfortable with after 50mph at full throttle, it's a beast, had to let off the gas. The handling is mediocre and any quick turns I could easily see it flipping at high speed. Maybe I'm just so used to having cars with a lower center of gravity. Can't wait to get it on the highway. I showed her a video of a 350Z car and was like, "doesn't that engine sound really nice and powerful". Then told her that is basically the engine she's got in her car. She already loved the car already but when she heard that man she was over the moon in love with it. We looked at a couple of cars. Having mechanical experience I could tell that the engine bay for the Murano was relatively new and had a brand new brake cylinder. CarFax later showed that it had front end damage, made sense. Probably just radiator and brake line stuff. Alignment is perfect, engine is great, trans is great, so far so good. So whatever damage occurred it didn't affect the engine or trans. Body shop must have done a perfect job, I couldn't even tell. Looked a brand new vehicle. All the aluminum looked new and shiny while the other vehicles had signs of oxidation and grime. Engine and trans sounded perfect and was the same price as the other vehicles. Kind of a no brainer for me but for someone else those clues might not have been obvious since they wouldn't know what to look for. Was happy I could go help her pick out a vehicle. Yeah I really tried getting her into a Mazda but it just wasn't to be. She fell in love with the Murano as soon as she sat in it. Oddly enough the Murano's seats reminded a lot of the MX-6 leather seats, similar pattern in the leather too. Honestly it's one of many reasons why I was leaning towards the Murano as well. The seats were extremely comfortable and reminded of the MX-6. Anyway, just happy I don't have to work on that POS Saturn anymore... plus I get to work on a vehicle with a 350Z engine now. Today was a good day.
  13. Black 1995 Mazda 626 abandoned for more than a year on someone's property gets run over by Dodge Ram on Judge Judy starting at 11:33. "We were trying to push it out with one of my buddies trucks". They put a board on the front as a ramp to get the truck up on the hood. They wanted to have a little fun with it before they pushed it out of the driveway lol. If all that was wrong was a dead battery then get a new damn battery or a tow truck. Another 626 dies because of owners incompetence.
  14. This recall has now expanded to some European countries. Look at the newly attached graph of VIN's to see if your vehicle is included.