Jump to content
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About 94Girl626

  • Rank
    Junior Member

Previous Fields

  • Car

Contact Methods

  • ICQ
  1. I think you may be right, Vlad.....I did some spark tests today when it was hot and not starting.....Nothing on any of the four wires.....I took my Distributor cap off and checked it out, it looked pretty good and the rotor seemed fine as well....After the car sat for an hour or two, it started right up and just for fun I checked for spark--of course it had it....So my next question is WHAT IS THIS EXTREMELY COST EFFECTIVE GM HEI you speak of??????? I am getting quotes for distributors ranging from $280-$400!!!!! And what are your thoughts on buying one at a salvage yard? This idea freaks me out a little since the car is going to be as old as mine....how can I tell if its any good? I know some places give you a 60 day gurantee but I hate to think of buying a new one in 60 days...also, are there identifying OEM part numbers on the distributor or will I have to take it out to make sure I buy the exact match? i am worried about the connectors not matching up>>>
  2. Are you sure that part is inside the distributor on my 4 cylinder? i searched ebay for an ignition module and got this picture and a price of 15.99.....well hell for some reason it won't let me upload the picture despite it only being 8 kbs....
  3. Ok.....I am getting super frstrated with my mechanic. he seems honest and his labor rates are reasonable, but the poor guy doesn;t have a lot of testing equipment and that worries me....when i told him what it was doing he immediately told me my fuel filter was probably clogged. We replaced that, did wires, plugs, air filter, oil filter and oil change...actually I did all that last stuff myself...yes I am handier with a spark plug wrench than most women you will meet...lol.....BUT it still would drive fine in the morning from a cold start and then after stop and start driving for an hour or two it stalls. Sometimes it starts up after five minutes. Sometimes I have to let it sit for 45.....my "mechanic" now says it must be the fuel pump....we replace the fuel pump...the attached screen....altogether I spent a good $700 on parts and labor.....IT is still doing it.....the odd thing is I drove it for an hour on Saturday and Sunday--no problems. Cooler weather. monday was hotter and it stalled after running stop and go errands for two hours. i have been reading up on this for days now trying to decide....do I spring for a distributor and coil and and ignition module and pray it goes away....I heard of a test of heating the car up then tapping the ignition module hard and if it dies...that is the culprit. I know what it looks like, but not sure where it is. Can you guys tell me A) where the ignition module is exactly in a 94 626 and B) what do you advise I try first? I DO NOT WANT TO WASTE MORE CASH!!! Somebody who has had this problem--i would love to hear from!!!!!! I can't tell if it stalls whn the cooling fan kicks on or not, but that is possible.....I got my codes read and the only one was my ECT sensor...which was unplugged for some reason...I plugged it back in and the check engine light went off, but it seems to retunr before the car stalls.....
  4. Thanks guys! I will check those things and see what I find....as long as it doesn't kill me in the mean time! lol...I keep the window down to minimize my inhalation of the fumes....it isn't really strong, but enough to notice... ALso I am STILL having issues with the temp gauge...I did rig up an overflow tank and it helped for a while...and when I changed my radiator cap a while ago I put in one with a release lever. The odd thing is, as long as I keep the release lever in up position (i.e. not having the cap locked down) the temp gauge stays right where it should and I don't get any coolant overflowing or other signs of overheating. SO I have been driving it like that for months now--making sure my overflow tank is always full as well as the radiator, but leaving the pressure lever up on the radiator cap. If I lock the pressure lever down---without fail, in minutes the temp. gauge starts to go up.....What is up with this? I would like to get it fixed once and for all instead of rigging it to get by like I have been....
  5. For a couple of weeks my 94 626 has had a strong smell of gasoline in the carr--even in the morning after it has been sitting all night...My fuel gauge reads normal so I don't think there is a major leak anywhere and I have not spilled nay gas or anything anywhere. Any ideas or things I should look at? THanks! It has been so long since i have been on here, I forgot my passowrd!
  6. I read yesterday online somewhere what the difference is between having oil on the ceramic part, versus oil on the tip of the spark plugs....I thought it was in here. I can't find that thread or that web site where I read it anywhere now! If you know, let me know. My seems more on the ceramic...
  7. Thanks! You guys are the best....Apparently my mechanics--same ones who wanted $300 for a tune up and $300 to put a radiator in...found water in the spark plug well. I was not there when this happened, but THEY tightened a bolt on the block and said "This will keep water out of there" From what you are telling me...that doesn't make much sense....it sounds like the water comes in from the top and tightening a bolt on the block wouldn't do ANYTHING for water in the wells. Is that correct? I am getting more and more leery of these guys the more I go there. Plus every time i go in-I leave with a new set of problems! I did have a little oil on my old plugs when I took them out. So that could be the valve cover gasket. And perhaps the head gasket is blown from the overheating I had. WoW! $8 for the compression testing device? I will DEFINiTELY go that route! Hopefully testing it and replacing the head gasket will fix my white exhaust..... I am sure I will be back for more info once i do the compression test.
  8. Can you guys tell me which one of these I likely need to change with white exhaust coming out and a recent discovery of water in one of my spark plug wells? I am not sure which of these would keep that out...Also since using the superflucsh in my radiator and cleaning it out well last weekend my overheating seems ALMOSt non-existent. It did go up one day a little, I turned the heater on and it went back down....My other question is...IF I had cracked a cylinder head...turning my heater on wouldn't really help prevent the engine from getting hot would it? I am trying to keep myself positive becasue I have none of the signals of a cracked head---no coolant in my oil as far as I can tell, but I did have some in that one plug well...and the car is running pretty well aside from very occasional stumbling that is new. It seems to have normal power and everything. The only thing freaking me out is this recent appearance of steam from my exhaust pipe...After I blast the radiator with a pressure washer inside all the hose connections as suggested by Snailman, I am hoping to rule out a new radiator AND eliminiate ANY overheating issues. Then I can concentrate on my new steam problem and pray that it isn't anything worse than a gasket....I did NOT ever let it run in the red long at all, so I am hoping I saved the heads. One more question I have...since I recently put in those 2x platinum bosch plugs---the car seems to misfire occasionally...Should I get rid of them and put in some NGK's even though I had a great surge of power for a week or so that i loved??? And can putting 2x platinum new plugs in and leaving the old wires casue misfiring in and of itself? I didn't have the cash to do them both that weekend...Thx again....
  9. I didn't think of pressure washing where all of the hoses attatch....I thought three hundred bucks seemed high. I mean I wouldn't think it would take three hours to put one in....and take the old one out. I already have drained the radiator about three times, I put Super FLush cleaner and water in it and drove around for three days -just as the bottle said to do, then I drained it rinsed it for like an hour with a hose and filled it with fresh coolant...It has been better. But Is still saw it go up and when I turned the heater on it went down...I am more freaking out about the fact that when I picked it up from having a clutch line replaced it suddenly was only running on three cylinders! Seems a little odd....then the same guy offers to do a radiator for $300 and a "non Mickey Mouse tune up for $300---A TOTAL OF $600 for tune up and radiator. I am suspicious. ANyone who has done a radiator in a 94 626--tell us how long it took! In the meantime, I am going to try the car wash pressure wash in the hose connections....
  10. Well--I had a terrible week end...I told you all about my clutch pedal problem repeating itself after already paying to replace the master cylinder...Well they charged me $70 to replace a "leaking fluid line" that they said had cracked. That may have been my original problem and the new amster may have just blown it into a huge leak...or so they told me...SO I was annoyed that they had me put in the master cylinder to begin with. I oicked the car up after the leaking line was replaced and drove ti home. SOmething was SERIOUSLY wrong--mind you on the way to work THursday, the only problem I had was the pedal. The car drove fine, didn't overheat that morning, nothing. I took it in this morning and told him how it had no power, it felt like it was stumbling when it accelerated and he pulled one of my plugs out and told me there was water in there. He tightened something up that he claimed would keep the water out. and said that for $300 he would put a radiator in for me and for another $300 he would do a serious tune-up...."Not a mickey mouse tune-up" as he said, now these prices seem really high to me. It ran much much better after he tightened whatever it was, should I suspect that they did something to cause the water incident? Or is this just a coincidence? In all of my overheating over the last little while I have not ran it long AT ALL when it has been hot. My oil has always looked good and I have not seen anything weir din the coolant either... I have always shut it down and dicontinued driving and have not felt that power loss until I picked it up form them......the radiator doesn't seem THAT hard to do, and the part is like $120--Is it really a 3 1/2 hour job....I noticed white smoke too that I had never seen until I took the car there for the pedal issue...I am pissed and don't want to give them $600 if I can do most of it myself with a little help....
  • Create New...