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About Yukoner777

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    1995 626, 2.0, auto
  1. Still NO HEAT!!!

    Hi guys I have a 1995 626 2.0L, automatic. The car was okay during the summer, but when winter arrived (that's October here in Yukon) I discovered that the heater was intermittent. The engine warms up fine. But even after the engine warms up, the heater doesn't put out heat until I've been driving for another 10 minutes or so. And the heat reduces considerably, sometimes blowing ice cold when I slow down or come to a stop. I've spent hours online trying to nail down the problem. I took the car to a rad shop to get the heater core back-flushed, but the guy there showed me that there was a bunch of gunk on the rad cap, which he said indicated that someone had previously used StopLeak. There was some coolant which indicated a leak. So I ended up getting the radiator replaced. System flushed and a new radiator, and still intermittent heat! They use some kind of vacuum system when replacing the coolant, but I read a post by someone who still had air in the system after the shop used the vacuum system, so I bought one of the spill-free funnel kits and burped some air out of the system. I had the front end jacked up and ran the car for about half an hour to ensure I got it free of air. It seemed to be better at first, but later it was still the same problem. There don't seem to be any other symptoms of a blown head gasket, so I've ruled that out. Could it somehow be tied to a vacuum issue? Because after the car is thoroughly warmed up, the heat blows pretty hot when I accelerate, but then cools off when I back off the gas. The only other thing I can think of is that the water pump is not efficient at low rpm, but even if that were the case, I would think that the existing hot coolant in the heater core should provide heat for 15 or 20 seconds, even if there is no coolant flow at idle. But it actually cools off right away. I really didn't plan on throwing a bunch of money at this car. It was supposed to just be cheap transportation for a year. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks Ross
  2. Trans flush - Which direction does the fluid flow?

    Well I did eventually find my answer. I know this is dirt simple for most of you guys on the forum, but for some newbies like myself, who come to sites like this seeking step by step instructions, I'll post what worked for me. So here's how I did the flush on my 1995 Mazda 626 automatic transmission. The first step was, after warming up the car with a short drive, to drain the ATF through the trans drain plug. Almost exactly 4 litres came out (I left it to drain overnight because it was late, but probably half an hour would be good). Clean the hole and apply a bit of Loc Tite to the plug threads when reinstalling; just one thin bead once around the plug will do. Fill with 4 litres of Mercon V. That removed about half of the old fluid. The rest needs to be pumped out. I separated the rubber hose from the metal line coming from the bottom of the radiator (put a shop rag under it as there will be about an ounce of fluid leaking out). Get a four foot length of 3/8" ID clear tubing and push it onto the metal line. There's an opening at the bottom, under the battery, where you can push the tubing through. Attach the tubing with a clip onto a clear container with volume marks (I bought a clear 4.4 litre cereal container from WM and put a length of masking tape on the side and using a measuring cup to pour water into the container, marked every half litre). Reaching through the driver's window, I started the car and watched the old oil being pumped into the container. When it got to the one litre mark, I shut off the engine and added one litre of new fluid to the trans. I repeated this procedure until the fluid being pumped changed to the bright red new fluid. I pumped out about 4 litres. Then I removed the tubing and rejoined the rubber hose and metal line. Be sure to add a little bit less fluid than what came out, just so you don't end up with it being overfull when you check the level after it's warmed up. It's easy to add a bit more fluid to top it off, but a bit of a pain to have to drain fluid again. Start the engine and move the gearshift lever through all positions, pausing at each one for a few seconds so the fluid goes everywhere it's supposed to. Then measure the level. You don't want it completely to the top of the gridmarks yet, as the trans is not fully warmed up. I went for a five minute drive, getting up to highway speed for a couple of minutes to make sure the trans was warm. Then I measured the level and topped up as needed, a bit at a time so as not to overfill. Hope this helps someone down the road. Cheers Ross
  3. Hi guys I have a 95 626 with 2.0 auto. I've watched a few videos on draining and flushing the trans fluid, but after searching for a couple of hours, I still can't find a missing piece of info that I thought would be easy to find. I've drained as much of the fluid as I can (overnight) through the drain plug and replaced the plug. After replenishing with the same amount of fluid as I removed, I plan to disconnect one of the lines and have a helper start the car so the old fluid is pumped out, while at the same time I'll add fluid via the filler. And I'll let my helper know to turn off the engine when the fluid being pumped out changes to the new bright red fluid. But I don't know which line I disconnect to pump out the bulk of the remaining old fluid? I don't want to do a 50/50 guess and end up with a mess of fluid. On this particular vehicle, does the trans pump push fluid to the top of the radiator or the bottom? Thanks Ross