smuryof

Members
  • Content count

    45
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    11

Everything posted by smuryof

  1. High pressure on low pressure ac port

    Yes it most certainly would cause the system to not blow cold air. From what I can gather, I don't think anything is leaking. If so you'd probably be to zero on both sides already. The recharge service should have checked for leaks before trying to service it, anyway. I think something is hooked up backwards somewhere. EDIT - To answer your question, don't be afraid to hit up a junkyard or two. But I still don't think you have a leak. Where are you located?
  2. High pressure on low pressure ac port

    OK - step by step: 1) Connect lines and see what the pressures are, with engine off (or at least no A/C) button 2) Engage A/C and compare new pressure readings This is a decent chart to use for ideal pressures: http://rechargeac.com/how-to/ac-system-pressure-chart If the numbers are closer together with the system off, like 60/90 or 70/80, and spread apart when it is on, then either your gauge is hooked up wrong (maybe the lines are connected to the wrong gauges, somehow?) or your Schrader valves got switched somehow. (The low / high should only connect to their own port, they are different sizes, as I am sure you already know.) If the opposite is true - you might have hooked up the lines backwards on the compressor when you put on the replacement.
  3. High pressure on low pressure ac port

    Do you recall what the numbers were before the AC button is pushed?
  4. High pressure on low pressure ac port

    Did the numbers change, or at least twitch, on the gauges when the compressor kicked on and off? I'm assuming that the compressor is engaging / disengaging periodically during the test with that question.
  5. High pressure on low pressure ac port

    What was the ambient temperature when you did this check?
  6. air conditioner issue

    If it didn't work at all, and/or you had leaks, I would agree a shop is best since it would require draining / filling & that's ultimately bad for the environment. However, since you get *some* cooling at high revs, your system is probably just a little low and needs to be topped off. If you want to do it yourself, you'll need an r134a manifold gauge set, with both high and low (blue and red) gauges. You can get a set for roughly $60 or so, and then also a can or two of r134a. There's lots of videos on how to do this, but basically you would hook the gauges up to your high and low Schrader valves (located on your A/C refrigerant lines in the engine compartment, passenger side and behind the radiator.) Then you'd watch the numbers on the gauges as you run the system, and slowly add refrigerant until the numbers are within spec. The specification of perfect high/low pressures is widely available and should be universal to all r134a systems. Whatever specification you use should be relative to the ambient outside temperature: http://rechargeac.com/how-to/ac-system-pressure-chart Here's a decent, well written article explaining the various components of your typical automotive a/c system: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/automotive-air-conditioning.htm Give that a read, it'll take you about 15 minutes to get a good understanding of the system, and you'll be well prepared to understand the DIY approach. The key is to get the numbers within the right range as closely as possible. If you are under, obviously it won't run well. But more is definitely not better - if you put too much in, it will also run badly or not at all (and possibly spring a leak.) If you read the article above, explaining the system, you'll understand why - the refrigerant has to be able to revert to gas form. If you nail it and get the numbers perfect, you'll be rewarded with some nice, cold air from your system. It's not all that hard and kinda fun to do, actually. And once you know how to top it off correctly, you'll be prepared for that eventuality if your system runs low again.
  7. Vacuum and idling issue

    If you unplug the sensor, can you get by? Does it make a difference in how it runs? I *think* the ECU will revert to fail-safe operation if it does not detect a TPS... I could be wrong. It could be worth a shot unplugging it though
  8. Misfire in cylinder 4

    Kind of obvious, I know, but if you want to spend the time to make sure it's the injector, you could swap for another cylinder and see if the trouble moves to the other cylinder. +1 to the compression test - great idea. Also if you have an air compressor, you might consider investing in a leak down tester. I found one for ~$30 on Amazon. It's easy to use and will tell you where low compression is coming from. If it's a valve on cyl 4, that could be the culprit. "Leak down tester" is a fancy name for a gadget that will shove air into a cylinder (thru the spark plug hole) and then you can listen to various parts (exhaust pipe, intake duct, oil filler plug, radiator filler neck) for hissing air to let you know what part of the engine is leaking compression. Exhaust pipe = exhaust valve leak, intake duct = intake valve leak, radiator = head gasket, oil filler hole = worn rings (that's where mine was.) I had low (-30%) on two cylinders (again, worn rings) - yet the car still runs pretty great - so don't freak out if your numbers are a little bad, it can happen with age and doesn't really mean you have to do a rebuild. If it's pretty low and it's coming from a valve or head gasket, though... that's another story.
  9. Engine oil grade help

    Straight weight 30 or 40 is much different than 10w30. I suggest reading up on it a bit. Are you sure you're not supposed to be 5w30? I have a 1996 626 and it's 5w30 all the way.
  10. Two separate issues: 1) No cranking when turning key - assuming your solenoid is good (you say you replaced it) check wiring between ignition switch and solenoid, check for +12v at the solenoid. 2) Crank but no start - look for spark and fuel, lots of tips on here for that procedure. But you have to fix #1 first (obviously)
  11. Bad valve diagnosis

    Hey all, Please check my troubleshooting; I believe I have a bad valve. Have I missed any steps? Symptoms: Heavy misfire under load <3Krpm. All gears, esp. from a start Rough idle Analysis: Check TPS for correct resistance from Closed to WOT - passed Check MAF for correct resistance - passed Replaced aged O2 sensors (they were quite old) - no change in performance Checked compression; At normal operating temperature, 145psi 110psi 150psi 141psi (from left-to-right) By my calculation, that's a 27% deficit on cylinder number 2. Warmed up engine, removed oil filler cap, and then dipstick, while running - no smoke or any sort of pulsing from crankcase can be observed Removed valve cover, examined cam lobes - at first thought I had a worn lobe, but they all check out OK. Have I missed any troubleshooting steps, before I start removing the head for a valve job? Thanks!
  12. Another crank, no start issue

    What year is yours? I'm seeing quite a few 626's down here in the Metro Detroit area. I'm in Clinton Township, myself.
  13. Another crank, no start issue

    Where are you located?
  14. Bad valve diagnosis

    I don't know if we're allowed to advocate products on here - but Harbor Freight sells a cheap timing light that works just fine. Your symptoms sound exactly like mine when I was ten degrees off on timing. Bring a paperclip and do it in the parking lot on the spot :) Resistance check for the primary and secondary coils is super easy and only takes a couple minutes. Let me know if you need a reference to the workshop manual for it, you can find links to it in other threads I've responded to also.
  15. Another crank, no start issue

    I agree, that makes no sense. Something's missing from the picture. Plus, compression doesn't suddenly fail. You should have had plenty of poor running symptoms before that point, if compression was really that bad. I don't think there's anything more I could say unless I were able to actually see it myself...
  16. Another crank, no start issue

    Well, if those are your compression readings and they are in PSI, and you're doing it right (seven or eight turnovers, wide open throttle, per cylinder tested) I hate to say it but those are horrible readings & seem to indicate some sort of catastrophic failure. You should be getting upwards of 140+ PSI per cylinder. Mine reads 141, 128, 137, 145 & that's on a 240K mile engine. Sorry about your situation. I really hope it's something fixable. Best of luck!
  17. Another crank, no start issue

    After re-reading your thread, I don't think you did a spark test since the moment it stopped. Am I missing something? From what you discovered with the engine ground, it's tempting to theorize that the sudden stop (original situation) exacerbated a poor ground, thus disabling spark. Maybe that was the issue all along, an intermittent / poor ground....? Maybe I'm being too hopeful here, but it might just be that!
  18. Bad valve diagnosis

    Did you check your timing and ignition coil?
  19. Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement-front

    For replacing stuck/rusted old rotors - don't just wail on them with a hammer once you get the caliper bracket off. There's a screw hole in the face where you can thread a bolt thru the rotor, against the hub behind it, to create enough pressure to *pop* the rotor off the hub.
  20. Loss of power between 1-1.4k RPM

    This contains everything you could possibly ever want to do on your car. Specific to your year. I think it's the official Mazda service manual for that year. There's also TONS of great troubleshooting steps in there for just about anything that could be happening. http://www.pmx626.info/US/Mazda 626 & MX-6/Work Shop Manuals/PDF/1994 US WSM_OCR.pdf Refer to section G, or roughly page 880 or so in that manual. I recommend downloading and saving to your local hard drive if you can, or eBook it on your mobile device.
  21. Loss of power between 1-1.4k RPM

    And yes, it rang a bell with me - I just bought a 626 that this guy was trying to get rid of because he thought he had major engine problems. Turns out, it was a bad ignition coil AND bad timing (10 degrees off.) After replacing the ignition coil and setting timing correctly, it runs almost like new (as good as it can at 240,000 miles, anyway)
  22. Loss of power between 1-1.4k RPM

    Either timing or a weak spark. It's always good to do a thorough check of your ignition system: - Plugs, wires, rotor & distrib. - don't necessarily go buy new stuff, just make sure there's no major wear on any of these - Ignition coil primary and secondary coil windings - all you need is a multimeter to check these (lmk if you need a link to workshop manuals on this) It's imperative that you are working with a good coil, otherwise you will drive yourself nuts trying to adjust timing until it runs "right." - Finally, timing - I would verify all your other components & do timing last.
  23. Need help with a P0715 trouble code

    Whoops - I didn't read your message right. No I have no idea how to hotwire the ECU to ignore stuff like that. Sorry for the useless answer!
  24. Need help with a P0715 trouble code

    Disconnect negative battery terminal (8mm, I think?) Step on the brake pedal for at least 15 seconds Reconnect battery - engine codes should all be cleared.
  25. Another crank, no start issue

    Starter: Try to tap the solenoid (small part) with a drift bar and hammer, maybe it's just a stuck solenoid. Fuel: Loosen the fuel rail test bolt (top / passenger side - think it's 17mm?) just a bit and turn key on (but do NOT crank) - should spit some fuel out around the bolt showing that fuel pump is working. (Make sure you tighten the bolt back down afterward, of course) Spark: Pop the distributor cap off, unplug both connections at the distributor, and make sure the rotor turns when you turn the crank. Then check coil windings by following the instructions found here: https://manuals.co/workshop/mazda/626/mazda-626-1993-2001-workshop-manual-haynes/5528396/155#pf9b Compression: If it doesn't fire at all, then it's not a compression issue.