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smuryof last won the day on May 29 2017

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  1. If that's the same sort of flex pipe as found on the '96, I can tell you from experience, don't put too much strain on the flex portion. If it's somewhat old and rusty, you can cause leaks pretty easy that way. Besides, there's just three bolts on front and two in back, it actually isn't so bad with a decent 1/2" impact. Of course if this happened to me on the freeway in somewhere like the middle of Nebraska, you know, the typical places alternators like to die, then I would probably just loosen the sucker :)
  2. Resetting the ECU did not help; Finally, I decided to fiddle with the FORBIDDEN IDLE SCREW. Now, I have something very clear to say about this; I agree completely, 100%, wholeheartedly, this should NOT be adjusted to solve idle issues if the physics of the engine haven't changed. By that, really, in my case I am talking about displacement. When I rebuilt the engine, at the advice of the machine shop, I had the cylinders bored 0.020" over to take care of some light scarring that had appeared from 240,000 miles of use. That essentially changed the displacement of the engine by a marginal amount, but my theory here is that it was just enough to cause it to idle roughly and stall like this. I have no guidance from any of my research, and no feedback from any forums on this topic, so I will go with my theory that this idle set screw exists solely for the purpose of when the engine mechanicals change in such a way (or, perhaps, shearing off some of the head due to decking, sleeving the cylinders, replacement of pistons with non-stock, aftermarket cams, etc.) Since this is my theory and nothing I've actually read anywhere, please don't take it for gospel, and for God's sake, PLEASE don't read this posting as open license to fiddle with that idle set screw. I only did this after a thorough and exhaustive examination of all the sensors, vacuum lines, compression figures, thorough cleaning of the intake manifold, fixing of all exhaust-related issues, O2 sensor monitoring, TPS reference voltage span checks, IAC cleaning and testing, and everything else that could possibly have affected my idle, and finally resolving on a theory related to how the set screw is configured according to factory engine specs and displacement. I'm writing all this so anyone else that happens upon this thread might benefit from it. Even at that, I'm still not 100% convinced that I haven't missed something along the way, but for now the car at least idles more or less stable, and can hold idle with the TEN-GND connector shorted (for timing and such.) Speaking of which, I read from various other posts that the idle screw "doesn't seem to do anything" - IF you go this far, and IF you think it's necessary to change it, after reading all of my blazing warnings above, you might consider this is the base idle, just like base timing, and needs the TEN-GND connector shorted in order to properly set to spec. If you try doing either of those things (timing or idle) without TEN-GND shorted (diagnostic mode,) the ECU is going to do it's life's purpose and compensate to keep the engine running nominally, thus negating everything you do, thus making it appear like the set screw is "doing nothing." Anyway, I hope this helps someone in the future.
  3. I'm kind of confused now. What do you mean "one of the engine heads?" If you're talking about the 2.0L 4-cyl, it's only got one head. Also, why was it changed? Did the engine get hot or something? If it were me, I would run a compression test on all cylinders and look for unbalanced power. If your engine is only partly reconditioned, you will have a difficult time trying to achieve factory-level smoothness. EDIT: To your question, if the harmonic balancer was not changed, then I don't see how it could be causing an issue.
  4. Does it move out of gear on its own? Or, just kind of rattle around? Do you mean, it has too much give when you touch it slightly with your hand? Maybe a little more info on your question would yield some better answers...
  5. So, today I ran my vacuum test and it showed healthy vacuum (19-25) with no significant fluctuations or drops, no symptom of vacuum leaks or exhaust restrictions. Pretty smooth. Then, I ran SeaFoam thru the intake as per directions, it made a LOT of smoke (like in all those videos out there) but only a small improvement to where the car can just barely catch and hold idle 70% of the time when coming to a stop / releasing the clutch after moderate RPM drop. I drove 40 hard miles (WOT, release, WOT, release, .... repeat 100 times) on the freeway, because it's still not broken in (but the break-in period shouldn't suffer from this issue anyway.) Then I took another compression test, giving 122 120 115 123 which actually seems pretty good for being early in the break-in period. Next steps, I will try resetting the ECU by removing the battery cable, depressing the brake for 30 seconds, then hooking it back up. If that doesn't help, I'll fiddle with the idle set screw (yes I know this is forbidden, but I moved it before knowing that, tried to set it back to where it was early in this process - it never had any effect, making it worse or better, so that's not the root cause anyway) Last resort, if none of that helps, I'll probably humble myself and take it to a shop for diagnosis.
  6. Assuming nothing, I would ask, have you performed a general tune-up? Engine mounts alone will not eliminate vibrations if the engine is running badly (missing on one or more cylinders, low compression, etc.) or if the engine is out of balance (crank, driveplate, torque converter, etc.)
  7. This is on a 1996 626 2.0L, manual transmission; When cold (open loop): Runs fine (starts right up, throttle response is perfect) Idles smoothly @1000rpm, throttles up fine, releasing throttle is fine, settles smoothly back to 1000rpm. When warm (closed loop): Idles OK, not perfect (a bit erratic @750rpm) Throttles up fine, but when releasing throttle, will drop below 500rpm and usually stalls pretty quickly. After stalling, restarts and returns to same idle as before throttle test. When test pin connected (TEN-GRND) such as for checking timing, it will not hold idle at all. Things checked: No engine codes are tripped New plugs, gaps are all correct, color looks good No vacuum leaks can be found (listened all around the intake and associated vacuum lines; Double checked by spraying starter fluid all around engine comp't, no variations in idle detected) Fuel pressure is normal (30-35 at all times) TPS is normal (0.75 closed, 4.5 WOT, snappy / quick response to throttle change) OBD2 shows 13% at idle, around 23 @3000rpm IAC valve has normal resistance (7ohm), reads 7.5-8.5v fairly consistently during normal operation (I am not sure if that voltage is normal; couldn't find any reference on that) BUT does not seem to make a difference when unplugged; it stalls the same whether connected or not, and idle does not seem to change in erratic nature. (any further ideas on checking IAC for operation?) Throttle body removed and cleaned, IAC removed and cleaned (after testing as mentioned above) but these were not that dirty to begin with MAF readings seem normal (OBD reader shows 40 during idle, 120-130 @3000rpm) Timing is set at 12BTDC (had to do some trickery to keep it running with TEN-GRD shorted, though) Oxygen sensor readings are normal No exhaust leaks Battery and alternator charge are good Disabling EGR by capping off the vacuum to the EGR valve makes no difference Things I am considering next: Installing a vacuum gauge to watch for fluctuations that might indicate something according to https://www.motor.com/magazine-summary/mastering-the-basics-reading-a-vacuum-gauge/ If a vacuum leak is shown, check the EGR for stuck-open (remove and clean it, pretty much) If intake valve issues are shown, take to a shop to confirm valve issues with the head If no symptoms / vacuum gauge reads healthy, run a can of intake cleaner thru the system (though I've never seen a dirty intake show this level of stalling) Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions about anything I might have missed? I'm perfectly capable of missing the obvious, after all... The biggest mystery to me is how it can run so smoothly until entering closed-loop, and even then accelerate with plenty of power, but suddenly stall that easily. Seems like it must be some kind of sensor problem, but I can't think what else to check. Thoughts?
  8. Yes it most certainly would cause the system to not blow cold air. From what I can gather, I don't think anything is leaking. If so you'd probably be to zero on both sides already. The recharge service should have checked for leaks before trying to service it, anyway. I think something is hooked up backwards somewhere. EDIT - To answer your question, don't be afraid to hit up a junkyard or two. But I still don't think you have a leak. Where are you located?
  9. OK - step by step: 1) Connect lines and see what the pressures are, with engine off (or at least no A/C) button 2) Engage A/C and compare new pressure readings This is a decent chart to use for ideal pressures: http://rechargeac.com/how-to/ac-system-pressure-chart If the numbers are closer together with the system off, like 60/90 or 70/80, and spread apart when it is on, then either your gauge is hooked up wrong (maybe the lines are connected to the wrong gauges, somehow?) or your Schrader valves got switched somehow. (The low / high should only connect to their own port, they are different sizes, as I am sure you already know.) If the opposite is true - you might have hooked up the lines backwards on the compressor when you put on the replacement.
  10. Do you recall what the numbers were before the AC button is pushed?
  11. Did the numbers change, or at least twitch, on the gauges when the compressor kicked on and off? I'm assuming that the compressor is engaging / disengaging periodically during the test with that question.
  12. What was the ambient temperature when you did this check?
  13. If it didn't work at all, and/or you had leaks, I would agree a shop is best since it would require draining / filling & that's ultimately bad for the environment. However, since you get *some* cooling at high revs, your system is probably just a little low and needs to be topped off. If you want to do it yourself, you'll need an r134a manifold gauge set, with both high and low (blue and red) gauges. You can get a set for roughly $60 or so, and then also a can or two of r134a. There's lots of videos on how to do this, but basically you would hook the gauges up to your high and low Schrader valves (located on your A/C refrigerant lines in the engine compartment, passenger side and behind the radiator.) Then you'd watch the numbers on the gauges as you run the system, and slowly add refrigerant until the numbers are within spec. The specification of perfect high/low pressures is widely available and should be universal to all r134a systems. Whatever specification you use should be relative to the ambient outside temperature: http://rechargeac.com/how-to/ac-system-pressure-chart Here's a decent, well written article explaining the various components of your typical automotive a/c system: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/automotive-air-conditioning.htm Give that a read, it'll take you about 15 minutes to get a good understanding of the system, and you'll be well prepared to understand the DIY approach. The key is to get the numbers within the right range as closely as possible. If you are under, obviously it won't run well. But more is definitely not better - if you put too much in, it will also run badly or not at all (and possibly spring a leak.) If you read the article above, explaining the system, you'll understand why - the refrigerant has to be able to revert to gas form. If you nail it and get the numbers perfect, you'll be rewarded with some nice, cold air from your system. It's not all that hard and kinda fun to do, actually. And once you know how to top it off correctly, you'll be prepared for that eventuality if your system runs low again.
  14. If you unplug the sensor, can you get by? Does it make a difference in how it runs? I *think* the ECU will revert to fail-safe operation if it does not detect a TPS... I could be wrong. It could be worth a shot unplugging it though
  15. Kind of obvious, I know, but if you want to spend the time to make sure it's the injector, you could swap for another cylinder and see if the trouble moves to the other cylinder. +1 to the compression test - great idea. Also if you have an air compressor, you might consider investing in a leak down tester. I found one for ~$30 on Amazon. It's easy to use and will tell you where low compression is coming from. If it's a valve on cyl 4, that could be the culprit. "Leak down tester" is a fancy name for a gadget that will shove air into a cylinder (thru the spark plug hole) and then you can listen to various parts (exhaust pipe, intake duct, oil filler plug, radiator filler neck) for hissing air to let you know what part of the engine is leaking compression. Exhaust pipe = exhaust valve leak, intake duct = intake valve leak, radiator = head gasket, oil filler hole = worn rings (that's where mine was.) I had low (-30%) on two cylinders (again, worn rings) - yet the car still runs pretty great - so don't freak out if your numbers are a little bad, it can happen with age and doesn't really mean you have to do a rebuild. If it's pretty low and it's coming from a valve or head gasket, though... that's another story.
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