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About smuryof

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    1996 Mazda 626 LX 2.0L Manual
  1. If you unplug the sensor, can you get by? Does it make a difference in how it runs? I *think* the ECU will revert to fail-safe operation if it does not detect a TPS... I could be wrong. It could be worth a shot unplugging it though
  2. Kind of obvious, I know, but if you want to spend the time to make sure it's the injector, you could swap for another cylinder and see if the trouble moves to the other cylinder. +1 to the compression test - great idea. Also if you have an air compressor, you might consider investing in a leak down tester. I found one for ~$30 on Amazon. It's easy to use and will tell you where low compression is coming from. If it's a valve on cyl 4, that could be the culprit. "Leak down tester" is a fancy name for a gadget that will shove air into a cylinder (thru the spark plug hole) and then you can listen to various parts (exhaust pipe, intake duct, oil filler plug, radiator filler neck) for hissing air to let you know what part of the engine is leaking compression. Exhaust pipe = exhaust valve leak, intake duct = intake valve leak, radiator = head gasket, oil filler hole = worn rings (that's where mine was.) I had low (-30%) on two cylinders (again, worn rings) - yet the car still runs pretty great - so don't freak out if your numbers are a little bad, it can happen with age and doesn't really mean you have to do a rebuild. If it's pretty low and it's coming from a valve or head gasket, though... that's another story.
  3. Straight weight 30 or 40 is much different than 10w30. I suggest reading up on it a bit. Are you sure you're not supposed to be 5w30? I have a 1996 626 and it's 5w30 all the way.
  4. Two separate issues: 1) No cranking when turning key - assuming your solenoid is good (you say you replaced it) check wiring between ignition switch and solenoid, check for +12v at the solenoid. 2) Crank but no start - look for spark and fuel, lots of tips on here for that procedure. But you have to fix #1 first (obviously)
  5. What year is yours? I'm seeing quite a few 626's down here in the Metro Detroit area. I'm in Clinton Township, myself.
  6. Where are you located?
  7. I don't know if we're allowed to advocate products on here - but Harbor Freight sells a cheap timing light that works just fine. Your symptoms sound exactly like mine when I was ten degrees off on timing. Bring a paperclip and do it in the parking lot on the spot :) Resistance check for the primary and secondary coils is super easy and only takes a couple minutes. Let me know if you need a reference to the workshop manual for it, you can find links to it in other threads I've responded to also.
  8. I agree, that makes no sense. Something's missing from the picture. Plus, compression doesn't suddenly fail. You should have had plenty of poor running symptoms before that point, if compression was really that bad. I don't think there's anything more I could say unless I were able to actually see it myself...
  9. Well, if those are your compression readings and they are in PSI, and you're doing it right (seven or eight turnovers, wide open throttle, per cylinder tested) I hate to say it but those are horrible readings & seem to indicate some sort of catastrophic failure. You should be getting upwards of 140+ PSI per cylinder. Mine reads 141, 128, 137, 145 & that's on a 240K mile engine. Sorry about your situation. I really hope it's something fixable. Best of luck!
  10. After re-reading your thread, I don't think you did a spark test since the moment it stopped. Am I missing something? From what you discovered with the engine ground, it's tempting to theorize that the sudden stop (original situation) exacerbated a poor ground, thus disabling spark. Maybe that was the issue all along, an intermittent / poor ground....? Maybe I'm being too hopeful here, but it might just be that!
  11. Did you check your timing and ignition coil?
  12. For replacing stuck/rusted old rotors - don't just wail on them with a hammer once you get the caliper bracket off. There's a screw hole in the face where you can thread a bolt thru the rotor, against the hub behind it, to create enough pressure to *pop* the rotor off the hub.
  13. This contains everything you could possibly ever want to do on your car. Specific to your year. I think it's the official Mazda service manual for that year. There's also TONS of great troubleshooting steps in there for just about anything that could be happening. 626 & MX-6/Work Shop Manuals/PDF/1994 US WSM_OCR.pdf Refer to section G, or roughly page 880 or so in that manual. I recommend downloading and saving to your local hard drive if you can, or eBook it on your mobile device.
  14. And yes, it rang a bell with me - I just bought a 626 that this guy was trying to get rid of because he thought he had major engine problems. Turns out, it was a bad ignition coil AND bad timing (10 degrees off.) After replacing the ignition coil and setting timing correctly, it runs almost like new (as good as it can at 240,000 miles, anyway)
  15. Either timing or a weak spark. It's always good to do a thorough check of your ignition system: - Plugs, wires, rotor & distrib. - don't necessarily go buy new stuff, just make sure there's no major wear on any of these - Ignition coil primary and secondary coil windings - all you need is a multimeter to check these (lmk if you need a link to workshop manuals on this) It's imperative that you are working with a good coil, otherwise you will drive yourself nuts trying to adjust timing until it runs "right." - Finally, timing - I would verify all your other components & do timing last.