smuryof

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About smuryof

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    1996 Mazda 626 LX 2.0L Manual
  1. Starter: Try to tap the solenoid (small part) with a drift bar and hammer, maybe it's just a stuck solenoid. Fuel: Loosen the fuel rail test bolt (top / passenger side - think it's 17mm?) just a bit and turn key on (but do NOT crank) - should spit some fuel out around the bolt showing that fuel pump is working. (Make sure you tighten the bolt back down afterward, of course) Spark: Pop the distributor cap off, unplug both connections at the distributor, and make sure the rotor turns when you turn the crank. Then check coil windings by following the instructions found here: https://manuals.co/workshop/mazda/626/mazda-626-1993-2001-workshop-manual-haynes/5528396/155#pf9b Compression: If it doesn't fire at all, then it's not a compression issue.
  2. It is my pleasure. I wish you the best with your repair effort!
  3. And here are the specifications it should meet: https://manuals.co/workshop/mazda/626/mazda-626-1993-2001-workshop-manual-haynes/5528396/151
  4. If this link works for you, look about halfway down the page: https://manuals.co/workshop/mazda/626/mazda-626-1993-2001-workshop-manual-haynes/5528396/155#pf9b
  5. Check your primary and secondary coil windings with a multi-meter. It's very easy to check. If either test fails, you could have a weak spark causing a miss under wide open throttle at low RPM. This is exactly what was happening to me. Also, make sure there are no vacuum leaks. I would still check your fuel pressure, especially if your spark plugs are coming out dark in color.
  6. Yea sometimes it's simple things that stay hidden till the end of a big job. Well I'm glad that's all it was!
  7. I bet your fuel pressure is insane.
  8. For those of you following my saga (yes I know there are MILLIONS of subscribers) --- I replaced the distrib. today. I gotta say, any hesitation is totally gone. The car runs freaking GREAT. Well, great for 230,000 miles - still has some funny idle up/down action at stops, but nothing I am worried about. Puh-LENTY of pulling power up hills in low gear, or anything else.
  9. This was very helpful to me. I found out my EGR is functioning fine, but my distributor secondary coil winding is bad. Very good troubleshooting steps in there - more detail than you'll ever get out of Haynes or Chilton.
  10. How did your compression test go? Also check the timing - harbor freight sells a timing light for like $30 or so, and it only takes a few minutes to do. My timing was off by 10deg. and it made a HUGE difference in engine performance. At a $30 investment, it's well worth it and a mandatory tool to have on hand.
  11. Might check fuel pressure to make sure it is normal. Connect a fuel pressure gauge to the service port (on end of fuel rail to passenger side of engine) and check for ~35psi at idle, and ~45psi if you remove the vacuum hose from the fuel regulator valve (located at the other, driver's, end of the fuel rail.) If your fuel pressure is too high you could get too much fuel delivery per injector pulse. The only other thought I have is maybe the engine control computer has not been correctly adjusted to compensate for lack of sensors (O2 and such.) Does your car have a MAF sensor, and also a TPS sensor? I know this is probably a dumb question but have you also checked to make sure the air filter isn't clogged?
  12. Have you ever had one of those Homer Simpson D'OH! moments? I did yesterday. Here's a pro-tip: If you change your timing belt, set your timing afterward!!! I didn't have my timing light with me on this road trip, and I guess I thought since everything went back the same way, and I didn't touch the distrib. or remove cams, that the timing wouldn't change. Not the case. My timing was 10 degrees late (retarded) and that was greatly exacerbating a weak spark. And yes, I mention weak spark because the other D'OH! was, even though I was seeing a white spark at the plug, I never checked the coil windings in the distributor. I have proper resistance on the primary, but the second coil is broken, registering infinite resistance in the test. So, on top of bad timing, I have a broken coil. I will be putting a distributor in tonight - a $300 part and 5 minutes of labor. Anyhow, the car is running much better & I won't be rebuilding the engine anytime soon. Moral of the story - with a heavy miss under load, always check your timing! At least now I have a *very* thorough understanding of the health of my EGR valve, fuel pressure & vacuum-driven fuel regulator valve, valve seals & healthy cam lobes, cylinder walls & normal piston ring wear, lack of air leaks, charcoal canister function, O2, TPS & MAF sensors, and all ignition components. And I have a s***-load of diagnostic tools :)
  13. I need a distributor, anyone know what years I can pull from? Mine's a '96 4-cyl 2.0L manual
  14. I invested in a leak-down tester to pinpoint the low compression, and discovered worn piston rings on what appears to be multiple cylinders. Pretty cool test, and very easy to do on these engines. Unfortunately for me, this means I have to pretty much rebuild this engine. Maybe later when I have the time.
  15. For the water pump pulley, you don't need to buy a special tool. - 10mm wrench to hold one bolt tight - Slender ratchet to loosen another bolt while you hold the other - Once you have a bolt out, use one of the small valve cover bolts from the edge of the valve cover (it's the exact same thread as the water pump pulley bolts, but longer) to run thru the back of the pulley, but not tight. Just finger-loose - Remove the other three bolts while the valve cover bolt holds the pulley for you - Spin the valve cover bolt out