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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

mangus

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About mangus

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  1. Hey guys, does this 626 of mine have two separate modules, i.e. both an ECM and a PCM? From https://www.king6fab.com/how-to-technical-help/technical/ecu-pinout-diagrams/2135-2-5/ My "ECU" that is located forward of the manual trans shifter, under the radio doesn't have pin outs like that. It is a FSG2 Mitsubishi part. My question is there another "PCM" located elsewhere in the car. Thanks for any help. This thing has been an adventure. Mangus
  2. Hey guys, while checking the VIN on this car, the tag inside the door stated "Bumper and Theft protection". I've been chasing a no-spark condition in this car for awhile now - what theft protection does the 1997 626 have? Thanks Mangus
  3. Thanks for the link. I've been in there before. Unfortunately the only '97 ignition wiring diagram PDFs are for the KL. I need the FS page. Specifically, the ENGINE CONTROL SYSTEM (FS) / IGNITION SYSTEM (FS) page. Thanks again.
  4. Hey all. I've combed through here and the Net pretty thoroughly to find the wiring diagrams for a '97 2.0 liter manual trans 626 with not much luck. May have to buy a Mazda copy off of Ebay. Anyone have a link or the PDFs? Specifically trying to find where the green and blue wires coming from the crankshaft sensor connect to the ECU/PCM. This has the 'FSG2' PCM, three connectors. Still chasing a no-spark condition on this car. Thanks much. Mangus
  5. Tried to edit my post above, but too much time had passed. The relay to the left of this green relay (part # FS11A) is actually the "main relay". Testing it now for continuity - it has 300 ohms between the two silver blades (E-A), no continuity between any of the other blades (F-B). If I apply voltage to the left silver blade (E) and ground the right silver blade (A) it clicks and continuity appears between the lower blades (F-B). No voltage, but continuity. Should there be voltage on these lower blades (F,B) or does the relay just ground the circuit? E--A F---------B
  6. Add some info here, I think I may have confused the green relay (part # NF02 066700-9471) as the main relay when in fact, it is the fuel pump relay. The relay to the left of this green relay (part # FS11A) is actually the "main relay". Testing it now for continuity - it has 300 ohms between the two silver blades, no continuity between any of the other blades. Any other guidance on how to test this main relay?
  7. Hi guys, gals. Seems like these 626s commonly have "crank but no spark/start issues". I'd really appreciate some help if anyone can spend the time - my son and I have been trying to get his car running for about 6 months now :) First issue, car would start, idle/run good for about 60s then start wanting to die at idle and cut out when the throttle was blipped open. After 60s, car was very hard to start.I checked fuel pressure, found it was on low side of the min-max and that the hold pressure with the key off bled off to nothing. Ordered and replaced pump, solved low pressure and hold pressure problems. But, the car still ran the same and then suddenly would not start at all, cold or hot. I had no spark at the plugs now. Moved on to distributor, checked resistance measurements inside of it. Were out of spec, replaced distributor with new unit. Turn the key, no spark. Checked all fuses inside car and under hood that I know of, all fine. Checked for distributor rotation i.e. ensure timing belt hadn't broke. All good. Checked crankshaft sensor, ~550 ohms is desired and that is what ours reads. Picked up a used PCM cheap on a hope and prayer, no change. Checked voltages at two connectors of distributor, seem to be correct from what info I can gather. I'm checking the "main relay" currently - side note here, I can't find the dealership repair manual for the '97 as it seems to be missing from many of the archives I've found, so I've been working off possible incorrect info. Anyhow the manual says continuity should be present on blades E-A of the relay. Then when 12+ is applied to E and A grounded, blades B-F should have continuity. Not the case with the relay I think is the "main relay". So first question, can someone send a pic or describe which relay is the "main relay" in the underhood fusebox for a 97 626? Then, the correct continuity tests would be really helpful. I'll be honest I've been staring at this thing too long :) If someone can give me the steps they would take at this point I'd appreciate it. Quick shot-out to this site too, it has been enormously helpful so far. Thanks Mangus
  8. Thanks all. Just put a fuel pressure gauge before the fuel filter and there is about 2 lbs of fuel pressure - it is amazing it even runs. Anyone experienced this with an electric fuel pump? 2 lbs of pressure? :) Thanks again for the help all.
  9. Hey guys, gals, great forum, glad to find it! I've got a 97 626 2.0 manual with some issues, here are the problems, symptoms. Starting sometimes takes 3-4s of cranking before it starts. Once started it'll idle at 1000 rpm for 3-5s then start missing and nearly die (sometimes it does die) then jumps back to 1000 rpm idling fine. Repeat. Once running if given sudden wide open throttle it will totally fall on its face and die. Once driving, once above about 1000 RPM it runs fine. Lugging it down though will bring back the missing and cutting out. We just had it at the shop where they replaced the MAF and TPS. A few months back we replaced distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs and wires. I did some checks yesterday, good battery connections, grounds. Unplugged the IAC to see if there was any impact, there was. Unplugged each injector, all made an impact. I see some posts on here about cleaning the IAC, and adjusting the TPS, maybe a stuck EGR valve. I've listened and checked for vacuum leaks, does not appear to be any. Anyone had similar symptoms? Got any advice where to start? I'm thinking of checking fuel pressure first. One would think it run even worse though at higher RPM if fuel pressure was an issue. Thanks much, Mangus
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