tblock96

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About tblock96

  • Rank
    Newbie

Previous Fields

  • Car
    2000, 626 LX, 2.0L, mtx

Profile Information

  • Location
    Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
  1. IAC Operation

    By airleak, do you mean a vacuum leak or an intake leak after the maf? And what is within spec for cold start idling?
  2. IAC Operation

    Hi all, My question is pretty simple (hopefully): How do the IAC valves in our cars work? I understand the coolant/thermowax, and I know there is some kind of electrical input for a valve/stepper/something. I'm not sure about what that electrical something is on our cars specifically. I also don't know if it's in series or parallel (figuratively) with the wax (i.e. If it's a valve, does it open up to allow the amount of air determined by the wax expansion? Or does it open a different bypass channel?). Finally, under open loop operation (cold start), is this electrical thing operated, or does it only begin operation under closed loop? Some sources I've found say there should only be air getting sucked up the bypass slot in the throttle body when the engine is cold, and other sources seem to contradict this. The reason I'm asking is because my car is idling around 1500 rpm when cold (which is not a huge issue, I know) and I know it used to be around 1200. It also occasionally (like once out of every five times I drive it) hesitates like crazy under load, but only when it's cold. There is a high chance that this is being caused by other things as well (I haven't inspected the MAF, there's a whistle I suspect is the valve cover gasket, and the exhaust has at least one leak around the middle of the car), but I'm also just new to automotive stuff and I find it so interesting, so the more I learn the better. Thanks fellow 626ers!
  3. Room Fuse and P1632

    On American models, the joint box is just inside and in front of the driver door, close to the floor. Basically, the outside of your left foot touches it when you're driving. The ROOM fuse on our cars is on the very bottom, on the right. There's a good diagram here: https://mazda626.net/topic/41689-99-mazda-626-fuse-panel-diagram/ If you have your owner's manual, it should be in there. Sorry I can't be of more help, but I figure some info is better than none!
  4. Tow Fitting

    Let me just start off by saying that this website is so awesome. I bought a 2000 2.0L manual with 297000kms two years ago and it's survived a trip across the country and back and over 50,000kms almost solely because of advice I've found here. My question arises because I'm moving across Canada (3500 kms) and I just got married so I have to bring my wife's stuff, hence towing. As far as I can tell, I can expect to be able to tow around 920 kg (2000lbs) safely as long as my brakes are okay and I'm smart with what gear I'm in. The problem I'm having is that I can't find any hitches with fitment for a 2000 626 (probably because it's not supposed to be a tow vehicle). People that have mounted hitches, what brand/model did you use? Thanks again!
  5. Idle problem/Fluctuating RPM

    I have a 2000 4cyl standard with 350000kms (~220k miles) that has the exact same issue! Cold idle is at 1500 consistently, and if I stop at a light or stop sign a couple minutes after the car starts it swings up to 2000 for a couple seconds and then down and back up etc. The exhaust has a big-ish leak in the middle and when it's colder than 50F or so outside I sometimes lose power (lagging) when accelerating. The downstream O2 sensor is giving a code but I don't have a code reader handy to see if there's anything else. Last summer I replaced a leaky PCV and that fixed the lagging for a bit but I could check for a bigger vacuum leak if that might help. I just don't know where to start looking! Anyone who knows more about engines than me, your help is much appreciated!