LukeWoessner

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About LukeWoessner

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  • Car
    1988, Mazda 626, 2.2L N/A. Manual

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  1. Does anyone have any pictures / video of removing the alternator from a base model 88' 626 sedan? I managed to get everything disconnected and the charcoal canister out of the way but still can't get the alternator out. It's being blocked in by the brake hardline and the hardlines for the charcoal canister. I've heard that it can be removed by going behind the engine and out the drivers side but I can't seem to find the right path. Any help is appreciated! -Luke
  2. Thanks Leev
  3. I believe so. I didn't personally mount it but it should be fairly easy tocheck.
  4. I've recently learned how to make carbon fiber body panels and I'm checking out if there is any interest on the forums from people that would be willing to buy them before I invest in the required materials. Hoods, Trunks, fenders, etc. Any Interest?
  5. I'm having some more issues with my Base 1988 626 sedan. Upon getting it to start again after sitting for about 2 months. (turned out to be a charging issue) I started it up and it ran great for about 10 seconds until I saw smoke rising by the belt side of the engine. Smelled burning rubber. After turning the engine off and a quick inspection, it had appeared the alternator had siezed and the belt was spinning on it. I have recently discovered when I went to change the alternator and accompanying belts, that it was rotating freely after I removed the belts and that the crankshaft pulley was very difficult to turn. Even with a breaker bar. Video'd the crankshaft issue. 0925161124a.mp4 Any Input would be greatly appreciated as I would love to get it running again.
  6. What components aside from those already on the stock F2 N/A engine would be needed to turbocharge the engine with a stock or slightly better turbo. Aside from the turbo itself, piping, manifold, down-pipe, oil lines, and boost pressure gauge. How does the ecu read boost pressure and how would a stock controller be wired in? Thanks for any input. -Luke
  7. So a 2.5" outlet Catalytic converter from the stock manifold (ported) with 2.5" SS Tubing all the way back into a Magnaflow knock off? Any knock off's you'd recommend? (I'm also curious for my Volvo, I5 engines sound great with a little exhaust work!)
  8. So just any Magnaflow weld-on with appropriate in/out diameter? P.S. What diameter tube would you recommend of a SS cat-back? (I know it wont improve performance, I just want the sound.)
  9. There is a strange knocking sound from the engine/trans-axle whenever I don't shift perfectly. Only noticeable when setting off or from 1st to 2nd and a bit from 2nd to 3rd. My mechanic told my to "Not bother with it" and that it's "Somewhere in the guts of the engine". I no longer use him and do almost all my servicing myself. I'm guessing it's a crankshaft bearing or balancer related. Any Input? I'm planning a re-ring so I'll have the bottom taken apart anyways. Thanks! -Luke
  10. The original muffler for my 1988 626 DX (N/A 2.2L I4) is pretty much thrashed by the terrible roads in my area. I'm moving to a nicer area so I finally have a reason to get a new one that wont instantly be destroyed. Any recommendations for after-market mufflers that sound decent? Something a bit cooler than stock. (no fart cannon) It's hard to find something good for a good price. I'm learning to weld so weld on vs. bolt on does not matter. Thanks for any input! -Luke
  11. I'm soon going to be replacing the alternator and belt on my base 88' 626 sedan. I've god a few decent junkyards within driving distance of home. Any vehicles that share an appropriately sized 70 amp 12V alternator I could salvage one from? Any tips for when I do the replacement itself or will it be a pretty standard affair? According to CARiD, the Remy alternator is also a Mitsubishi model, based on the stamp in the component itself.
  12. Got it started up again. Turned out to be a fried EFI fuse. Ran for a few seconds before the alternator belt started smoking. Looks like the alternator seized up after not running for several months. Any tips to un-seize it aside from a long breaker bar and busted knuckles? I already have a new belt for it. Where should the grounding cable by the Cam Cover be grounded to? ps. The red ignition wires are factory from 1988... They have the manufacture date printed on them. You recommend the NGK's like these? https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=946518&cc=1189773&jsn=366 Thanks for all the help dude, It's been greatly appreciated!
  13. Im having a no start issue with my 1988 Mazda 626 (Base model N/a 2.2 w/ 5 speed manual) Rather than trying to explain it and failing miserably, I filmed the issue. Specificly at 1:40 - 2:37. Thanks for any input!
  14. What is the best method to go about releasing fuel pressure on the system on a naturally aspirated 1988 Mazda 626 Base sedan? The Haynes manual points it out for the 1986-1987 but states the preocess is different for 1988 and does not give any instructions. Any input is much appreciated! -Luke
  15. After sitting for more than a few months fuel often goes bad and clogs up the in tank fuel screen. Probably not your most immediate issue but you may need to either add some fuel refreshment additive or clean the tank out.