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ColdWarVet607

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About ColdWarVet607

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  • Birthday 09/24/1955

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  1. Im reassembling the FS engine 2.0L 4cyc 2001 626. Whats best way to prime the oil pump. I rebuilt my '03 Impala 3800 engine, the manual said to pack the oil pump with Vaseline and that didn't work well at all, to get it pumping, I had to overfill the oil by about 1.5-2 qts. So has anyone primed their pump some how during a rebuild. Nothing in the WSM on it. Thanks Don
  2. Just literally finished complete disassembly of my sons 2001 626 FS engine and pulled the crank to find these strange oil jets, now I know how to take them out, thanks a million. But really MAZDA...really? I hate fining out I have another 120$ bill for nothing other than Mazda's inept design. Has any one tapped that jet hole and tired to build their own nozzle? I'm giving it some thought. There's 170K on my sons car, a leak down test showed tons of air going from cylinder to cylinder and upon removing the heads it was clear the gasket was ... not gasketing... for lack of a better word like sealing! I still heard a lot of noise in the oil pan so thought perhaps rings may be bad but I think air may have just gotten in the oil gallies thru head gasket and down to the oil pan that way. But I've pulled it all apart figuring...why not, I love rebuilding and why not replace piston rings , check the cylinders and have them honed and bored if needed and pop in new rings and bearings. Basically a brand new engine. Then I see this jet nozzle. IS it possible to hone the cylinders without removing these? If the cylinders measure very well within spec and I can get my son another 150K minimum then I wont have it bored, if not its getting bored but thats 130$ penalty for these nozzles as much as the bore. As a bonus I've been measure every bolt for width, pitch , lenght and will post that to the group, can count the times in this group or any other auto group I've seen or asked my self about what size a bolt was. Well if any ncool workaround for this jet nozzle please advise. Thanks..............D
  3. You can test the ignition module by using a test light, an old fashioned one with a real bulb, not the LEDs they have on many today. Remove the cable from spark plug, Gnd the test light ground clip and BEFORE you start car put the test light probe tip on the cable spark plug terminal to give the spark a place to go. (see warning below). Start Engine and your test light now acts s the spark plug. Move the tip away slowly to see how far the spark jumps, until you reach a position where its barely able to jump.Put the probe back to tip then turn engine off. Do that on another module/wire combination and see if theres a big difference. That difference points to a bad or semi bad cable or bad/weak ignition module output. No fancy tools needed. I did this and found a bad output on my ignition module and closer inspection I saw a crack on it, where energy probably jumped from it to GND at the module. The Mode 6 data said I had misfires on that cylinder, after I changed the module it ran great. Make sure your hand is not close than the test light probe or you will get bit big time by the spark. You will also develop an "ear" and "eye" for the quality of spark by the sound of the snap and brightness of the spark. Also if you find a bad/weak module/cable combo, then change the cable with another and retest the same output of ignition module to eliminate the cable or module output. Do not allow the cable to sit disconnect from spark plug when engine is started, that energy needs to go somewhere and will eventually punch itself thru the insulation in the module to another coil if you dont give it a path. You'll want to disable the injector for that cylinder so you dont hydro lock it.
  4. Answer to my own question! I finall found details in the 2001 WSM Under Drive Shaft, for the ATX thats 03-13-14 or pdf page 914, for the MTX its section just a few pages before this. Big Bummer is, you can remove the outer bell joint!!!!! I need to separate the Drive Shaft from the Joint Shaft, then disassemble and remove Outer Ring, remove the tripod joint, remove the inner boot and pull the outer boot off from that opposite end. The boot is just fine on the inner side. What a stinkin' bummer! But on the bright side I get to take more stuff apart and I've taken a ton of stuff apart. This also requires removing the stabilizer link from the lower control arm,, removing out tie rod from lower control arm. You may have to pull the brakes and rotor and remove wheel assembly from knuckle to make it easier, but I've already done that as I'm replacing ball joints. There are the split type boots but they are all related as garbage, so I guess I got some disassembly tomorrow. Yikes, this would cost a fortune to replace a 8$ boot at a shop.
  5. Trying to replace the outer boot on drivers side, have everything apart. How do I pull off the outer CV joint (is it CV?). Saw a ETCG video on boot replacement, the outer CV joint should slide off easily, it wont move. Should it slide off? Appreciate some advice, havent found section in FWSM that covers this, thanks -D
  6. I just confirmed my starter was shot (probably the solenoid, not motor) by placing an alligator lead jmpr to the honking big 12v wire terminal on it and connecting to my meter. Put other lead to gnd to makes sure 12v at input to starter. Then I took the lead I had put to gnd and used another jumper with a pin inserted into the female control cable that goes to the flat blade connector terminal on starter and other end of that jumper to other meter lead. If the 12v direct wire from battery to starter has no op1ens you will see 12v on the meter. When you turn key to start, if the ignition and the transaxle switch closes properly, 12v is routed from battery to the female control line connector and you will see about 0v on the meter as the control line is now at 12v and the starter input has the battery 12v on it, so 2 12v leads on the meter l gives a delta of zero, meaning the starter is feed proper control signal and proper power input. See jpg mark up schematic below, its alot clearer. This is true for 2001 626 ATX, others I do'nt know. Also can't understand why the schematic shows an input from cruise control going into control line of the starter...anyone know. Don't mean to hi jack the thread. Quick test although a pain to get leads on from topside even after taking out complete air intake system. Bottom may be easier if you can get under. This is a good quick test to see if the ignition and transaxle switch work, I did it this way because I could not find the stinkin' transaxle switch. You can take the air intake tube, filter box and air intake tube to throttle body as one complete unit by loosening three nuts 2 bolts and loosen the hose strap at throttle body. Thanks for the other info too, I liked your transmission line quick fix, thats DIY engineering and thinking with available parts in your garage, bravo!
  7. Working on timing belt right now. Crankcase pulley bolt is 21 mm on 2001 626 2.0L FS Engine !
  8. Low Cost Scope. This may be late but someone wil see it eventually. http://www.amazon.com/1008C-Automotive-Diagnostic-Oscilloscope-Programmable/dp/B00BSR98KW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1456189706&sr=8-1&keywords=automotive+oscilloscope about $88 bucks and has presets for screen and trigger setup for the various sensors in your car, which may or may not apply to the actual sensors in your car. I have a higher end scope I use for hardware design I do at home, I use it on my car as well.
  9. In reply to question 3 on "if bolt taken off with 10mm socket, is that the size?" The bolt head socket size is not what describes a metric bolt. The size of a metric screw or bolt, is comprised of 3 specs all in units of mm. -diameter, -thread pitch -length, If you saw a spec saying in parts diagram calling out a M8 you need: M8-1.25 x 20 or M8 x1.25 x 20 M = Metric thread 8 = This is the Nominal diameter, in millimeters of thread width 1.25 = Pitch or the distance between thread centers, in millimeters 20 = Length, in millimeters of the bolt, threads only. This is for coarse and fine threads. If its coarse then the pitch may not be stated because its a standard, that is for an M8 coarse thread pitch is ALWAYS 1.25 (unless marked as fine thread and fine threads are standard values with respect to the diameter as well). You won't see 10 different thread pitches or types as with SAE NON METRIC threads and bolts/screws. Search for "metric thread size" and you'll get a zillion hits detailing the above and more. These specs are covered by ISO 261 and 262.
  10. Want to replace Torx screw as its a pain and worn out and will be removing Phillips screws for first time. Need to have replacement bolt/screws for these before I start job. Have seen members talk about replacing with hex or Allen heads but can't find size/length on mazda estores, here or elsewhere. Have 2001 2.0l 626 would appreciate if someone replaced these let me know. Thanks in advance. -Don
  11. I'm a newbie, posted this in "others 626" forum. Reposting. Sorry ! I just got got an OTC 3111 Pro scanner works fine in my 03 Impala, 04 Pacific, Cadillac's, Toyotas, Fords...just about everything, but....my '01 Mazda 626. It gets powered up so my ODB2 port has power and I also visually checked and measured the power and GND and ohmed GND and chassis GND pins to actual body and PCM GND . Scanner states starting to connect, then 30 seconds later reports "Link Error". I've tried Auto, Manual and just plain old ODBII settings a zillion times, won't work. After that I had my mechanic test to make sure my ODB port was okay, he read verified its working at this particular moment and pulled a P1506 off it. Anyway I called OTC tech support, knowing that my port works looking to work with them on solving this problem, I don't want to stretch this out but they instantly blamed my 626 port saying its broke even though its running with another scanner. Told me they use Pin 3 as a GND. (Really, dont think so). Started taunting me when I advised pin 3 is reserved, and would provide no more help. Want to say more about that conversation but won't. I've looked at the port to see what pins are hooked up, so I can see what protocol is used, didn't check with my mechanic at that time because I believed there would be just one protocol pin setup on the port. I see pins 2, 4, 5, 7, 10, 16. So 4 and 5 are chassis GND and GND, pins 2,10 would be for J1850 implying PWM which is usually Ford and some Mazda. Pin 7 is ISO 9141 or ISO14230-4 also used by Mazda. Pin 16 is power of course. I've also tried with my scanners batteries in, but it probably still sucks power from the port. So I thought perhaps the OTC scanner was confused by 2 protocols and choosing the wrong one even though and ELM 327 is smart enough to figure that out, what chip OTC uses I don't know. So I got a nifty ODB cable that 16 individual wires and I cut pin 7, hoping the J1850 PWM would work...nope, soldered pin 7 back and cut 2,10 hoping 9141 would work, nope, Haven't tried just a pin 2 but that's GM VPW. Anybody know what the protocol should be. I know Ford used the Mazda 626 so maybe thats why it had pins 2,10 hooked up and maybe Mazda uses pin 7. I found obdclearinghouse.com stated the protocol for 2001 626 2.0L is J1850 PWM, and on pinoutsgudie.com they said 2001 626 was ISO9141 although its just a very short collection of individual write in's. So if anyone knows or has connected to a 2001 or even 2002 or 2003 please let me know your scanners type, if anyone has an OTC 3111pro and it worked please let me know (doubtful on that). I plan on getting another scanner, I'll never get any help out of OTC, they have made that all to clear, again I'll just keep that conversation and opinion to my self. I did search before I asked, under "ODBIi Connectivity Problem" which was caused by a fuse, member 2016626 who has a 01 626 said he/she brought there's to an Autozone and they read the port so it seems it has worked on an '01. Can't do that here in CA. our gov't has made a law, because they know better then we do as always and will not allow auto stores to read your ODB port because that's dangerous. But selling you parts to rebuild your engine isn't...mhhhh haven't figured that out. Thanks much ladies and gentlemen....... now if this newbie can figure out how to delete that other post.
  12. I just got got an OTC 3111 Pro scanner works fine in my 03 Impala, 04 Pacific, Cadillac's, Toyotas, Fords...just about everything, but....my '01 626. It gets powered up so my ODB2 port has power and I measured the power and GND to chassis GND and ohmed GND and chassis GND pins to actual body and PCM GND . It starts to connect and states that , then 30 seconds later reports "Link Error". I've tried Auto, Manual and just plain old ODBII settings a zillion times, won't work. I had my mechanic test to make sure my ODB port was okay, wife drove it down and he read verified its working at this particular moment and pulled a P1506 off it. Anyway I called OTC tech support, knowing that my port works looking to work with them on solving this problem, I don't want to stretch this out but they instantly blamed my 626 port saying its broke even though its running with another scanner. Told me they use Pin 3 as a GND. (Really, dont think so). Started taunting me when I advised pin 3 is reserved, and would provide no more help. Want to say more about that conversation but won't. So I looked at the port to see what pins are hooked up, so I can see what protocol is used, didn't check with my mechanic at that time because I believed there would be just one protocol pin setup on the port. I see pins 2, 4,5, 7,10, 16. So 4 and 5 are chassis GND and GND, pins 2,10 would be for J1850 implying PWM which is usually Ford and some Mazda. The pin 7 is ISO 1941 also used by Mazda. Pin 16 is power of course. I've also tried with my units power on, it has batteries but it probably still sucks power from the port. So I thought perhaps the OTC scanner was confused by 2 protocols and choosing the wrong one even though and ELM 327 is smart enough to figure that out, what OTC uses I don't know. So I got a nifty ODB cable that 16 individual wires and I cut pin 7, hoping the J1850 PWM would work...nope, soldered pin 7 back and cut 2,10 hoping 1941 would work, nope, Haven't tried just a pin 2 but that's GM VPW. Anybody know what the protocol should be. I know Ford used the Mazda 626 so maybe thats why it had pins 2,10 hooked up and maybe Mazda uses pin 7. I found in obdclearinghouse.com/ they stated the protocol for 2001 626 2.0L is J1850 PWM, looking on pinoutsgudie.com they said 2001 626 was ISO1941 although its just a loose small collection of individual write ins, not a long or complete list, actually a rather short list. So if anyone knows for sure please let me know, if anyone has connected to a 2001 please let me know your scanners type, if anyone has an OTC 3111pro and it worked please let me know. I plan on getting another scanner, I'll never get any help out of OTC, they have made that all to clear, again I'll just keep that conversation and opinion to my self. I did search before I asked, under "ODBIi Connectivity Problem" which was caused by a fuse, member 2016626 who has a 01 626 said he/she brought there's to an Autozone and they read the port. In CA. our gov't has made a law, because they know better then we do as always and will not allow auto stores to read your ODB port because thats dangerous. But selling you parts to rebuild your engine isn't...mhhhh haven't figured that out. Thanks much ladies and gentlemen.......
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