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About graybeard

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    1988 626 2.2 no turbo manual 245,00 miles Daily Driver !
  1. 1988 626 pulls to left under torque

    Tbm3fan - I got to ask. As an old mopar admirer , is it a Cuda or a Challenger ? That was my era growing up.
  2. 1988 626 pulls to left under torque

    Thanks for your excellent reply tbm3fan , I had serious lung surgery in December that I am still recovering from. That said I stopped at a tire shop on the way back from the doc. And they put it on a lift that only lifts a few feet. They let me stand beside them despite all the signs saying customers couldn't do that. Great people ! They turned the steering wheel back and forth and did the 3-9 o' clock wheel shake on the pass. Side and it was pretty loose . 6-12 o'clock was firm.I thought the the tie rods but he crawled under and shook them and they were firm. They believe ball joint or control arm loose or wore out . I wish it was up higher where I could go under it but that didn't happen . They did this for free. I will definitely give them my business soon on tires for my old truck. I need to find out more about the parts at this point . I have a willing friend to help out. I will have to get a better look at them but I was wanting to know how hard they are to replace should I need to. Any special tools etc. Needed ??? Thanks
  3. Hello all , My 88 626 pulls to the left hard under acceleration then straightens hard to the right when I let off the gas . It pulls slightly to the left when not under torque . The tire air pressure is 32 lbs all around . The steering wheel is off center and turned to the left from 9 o'clock to about 8 o'clock . It has gotten worse the last 500 miles or so . Any thoughts from experience please , would be much appreciated.
  4. 1990 626 Diagnostic Code Reading

    Thanks Mr_Stillwell , Sorry for the slow response , I have just finished replacing the radiator on mine . At least the weather has warmed up a bit . I believe that you are correct in what you say about the systems that are tested while running . I did try one test where I unhooked the double prong connector beside the two temp sensors next to the thermostat . This was without the engine able to run . I then tried the "ground out the green connector test" and turned the key on and it did show 9 flashes of the CEL , indicating that the thermo-sensor was a problem . So I suppose that it is able to detect some systems without running . This at least let me know that the "OBD ( On Board Diagnostics )" did work on mine . If ( when ) I have problems in the future , I now know how to do the test and have made a copy of the codes to carry in the car . A very handy thing to know that I discovered on this awesome site ! Appreciate your advice!
  5. On The Road Again ... !! Thanks tbm3fan , mike060 and sumdoode for all the help on my several topics !! I replaced the old with a used distributor and it fired right up! Saved a lot of money. And my luck in running into someone who had a 626 he was parting out (some where else) , in the parking lot of the parts store was phenomenal ! What are the odds ? I will make a separate topic on used parts later . Some , but not all that I have learned once you have determined the distributor is not working ; has awesome people with experience who take the time to help a total stranger , Thanks ! The ohm's test on page 5-38 1988 WSM seems like misinformation , outdated or maybe I am just STOOOPID ! Take your pick , HA! Ohm'ed out 4 pick-up coils and they all ohm'ed within 35 ohm's of each other (445 - 480 ohm's). All well below the WSM specs of 900-1,200ohms . That you can ground the single prong , green connector , red/black stripe wire , on the drivers side, corner firewall , under the hood ( approximately), turn the key to ON , and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will flash out trouble codes which may help you if you refer to the 1988 626 Mazda Work Shop Manual (WSM), page 4A-14 , available on this site . Do this test before you take off the battery cables so that the codes will still be stored . On page 5-40 of the WSM there is a very useful flow chart for troubleshooting the Ignition system . That a major , nation wide parts store chain can test The Ignition Control Module (ICM) for you with their ("WELLS TESTER") if you ask them .( Using 5 leads of a 6 lead pigtail) . Don't spend hours bending over peering into the distributor upside down trying to test it when you can just remove it in less than ten minutes (mark with a scratch mark first) and reinstall it in 15 minutes (No Kidding !), and then eyeball it and then test it . If necessary , mark/scratch top of the reluctor first , don't lose the tiny pin , then pry the reluctor off with a couple of screwdrivers . Then remove the pick-up coil and ICM , take the ICM to have it tested . As for the ohms test on the pick-up coil , I have tested 4 of them between 445 -480 ohms . I am sure someone else has better info . It is much better to do this above 60 degree's outside than at 27 degree's , It Hurts ! :) Thanks Y'All ', Graybeard
  6. Weak Coil Spark Output ?

    "On The Road Again ..." AS Wilie loves to sing . Thanks sumdoode for all your help and info , it helped greatly . I put the used distributor in and it started right up . Smoked some at first , which I figure was from all the cranking I did without spark earlier . Loaded up with oil or fuel thru the motor , exhaust etc . This was the absolutely easiest distributor to remove and replace that I have ever seen . The ohm's test on page 5-38 1988 WSM does not seem to be right to me , maybe others can provide input for future reference . Thanks Again, Graybeard
  7. More News : I made a lengthier post under the topic ( Weak spark coil output ) earlier this AM . Wish I knew how to cut and paste . Bottom line , I tested a new pick-up coil out of the box , and one on a re-man distributor at the parts store that ohm'ed at approximately 470ohm's . Bought a used a distributor from a customer at the store who was parting out a 1991 626 , ( talk about great luck and coincidences ! ). It ohm'ed at 460 ohm's about . I will put it in when I get a break in the weather and repost . Tested 4 pick-up coils in all , 2 new , 2 used . All within 25 ohm's of each other and all well below the spec's in 1988 Mazda WSM , page 5-38 (900-1.200 ohm's ) making me question the information given in the manual on this test . Used three different ohm-meters . The parts store clerk tested my ICM with A WELLS TESTER and it tested bad . They did not have one on hand or I would have asked him to test it before I thought about buying it . $94.00 + tax for a new ICM , ouch!! Hope the used distributor works , this is getting very old in this weather. My old bones are aching ! HA! My old external coil was leaking oil from the top hole where the coil wire goes when it first stopped running . I replaced it with a new one . I am going to test the new one to make sure it's OK . There may be a cause and effect going on between the ICM/pick-up coil and external coil going on . TO mike060 , Thanks for your parts offer ,and help . I will try the used first and let you know ! Thanks ! TO tbm3fan , Appreciate the valuable info and downloads , helped clarify things and has helped save me much money ! Thanks ! Any Other Members , If you have good info , please post!! Thanks, Graybeard
  8. Weak Coil Spark Output ?

    The saga continues ... I have found out ( with much help from other members ), that the Ignition control module (ICM ) plugs into the top of the pick-up coil with two male prongs on the ICM going into two female slots on the top of the Pick-up coil . The ohms test that I did while the distributor was still on the car is a test with both of these parts hooked together . It ohm'ed at 445 ohm's . Page 5-38 1988 WSM , calls for 900-1,200 ohms . I ASSUMED that this meant it was bad . I took the distributor off the car , pried the reluctor off , separated the ICM from the pick-up coil and did a separate test on the pick-up coil only . 445 ohms . Convinced that the pick-up coil was bad I had local parts chain store order one from another store for $44.00 and when I went to get it. I performed A test on the new one out of the box . 477 ohm's . Still well under the aforementioned specs . Desperate , I had them bring out a re-man distributor and performed a ohm's test on the coil/ICM on the re-man . 480 ohm's . Starting to see a pattern here. The very helpful clerk was able to test my ICM with a "WELLS TEST MACHINE " and it tested bad . The ICM offered for sale at the store was $94.00 . I was trying to make a decision and walked outside for a minute and Lo and Behold there sits a 1991 626 . I spoke with the owner and darn if he wasn't parting out a 1991 626 less than a mile away . Long story shortened , I bought a used distributor from him . The ICM/ pick coil has tested at 470 ohm's . 4 for 4 on the ohms's test , making me question the WSM manual's specs . The weather is so bad I will not be able to install it for a few days . Will be posting on this under another , older topic ( ICM Module/ will not start Help ) in a few days . thanks , Graybeard
  9. Thanks again Mike , great info ! I am about to go to parts store for the pick-up coil , I pried the reluctor off as you described . Then I decided without thinking to remove the pin . I marked the reluctor to tell how to put it back on . Now I am thinking the pin is going to be very hard to put back in . Does the slit in the pin have to face a certain way and do you( OR ANYONE ) have any tips on putting the reluctor and pin back in ??? I will post more on what you sent me on the coil when I return , my external coil had oil coming out of it and I replaced it . Could be connected for sure . More later , my ride is waiting !!
  10. Thanks tbm3fan , Excellent description and picture that helps explain where I was going wrong . My initial ohm test was correct per page 5-38 1988 WSM . Then I over thought the situation and had doubts and thought I was testing the ICM prongs . That thru me off . My initial ohm test was on the pick-up coil leads ( shown above with white rubber covering them , They were bare on mine ). It ohm'ed at 445 ohm's . The specs call for 900-1,200 ohms , so I know that it is bad . Thanks to mike060 's advice to take off the distributor , which I found to be surprisingly easy . I could then see much better how it was set up inside the distributor . I then pried off the reluctor and removed the pick-coil / ICM assembly . I separated the two and saw how they were connected and got the same ohm's again on the pick-up coil . Without any test info I tried different ohm tests on the ICM . I had to set the dial to 20,000 ohms and found that by putting one lead on one of the input leads and one on the other I could get flash readings which I believe could indicate that it will pulse . I got ohm's thru another test but will have to repeat it and write it down to pass along to others . At least try to get some kind of baseline whether it is helpful or not . On Rock auto's site under (1988 ICM wells/airtex) there is a link window that shows an excellent pinout diagram of the ICM that describes the pins function . Not a test but good info . I called local parts store and they have pick-up coil in stock and I will pick it up this afternoon . The weather is going to be bad so I may take a few days to post results . They agreed to give me credit back on the pick-up coil should the ICM be bad also . Then I can apply it to a re-built distributor with a limited lifetime warranty if necessary and I can keep my original Distributor for back-up purpose's . Question: Year's ago on my 1981 GMC 1500 , the ICM failed while driving and never fired again . I was lucky and replaced it easily and it had thermal grease to apply to the backing plate to dissipate heat . Do these 626 parts need that also ? I will re-post when I have results . Thanks very much , Graybeard
  11. Mike , Do you remember how you knew to change out the pick-up coil ? Thanks
  12. Thanks Mike ! That helps me out a lot . You said thumbnailS , is there another one , maybe with a legend which identifies the parts . I am thinking #24-910A is the ICM and #24-315C is the pick-up coil ? So you don't think the ICM can be removed without taking off the reluctor ? If not then I suppose I can handle taking out the distributor , should be easier without having a gear on the end like others I have worked on . Just make a scratch mark to line it back up , note the rotor position and you should n't have to worry about TDC and#1 cylinder and all that do I ? I did notice that I don't seem to have a gasket on my Distributor cap though .
  13. Thanks for the info tbm3fan! This is where i am at at this point , still too dark , early and cold to take a look again at the car . Will do that later this AM .What I do know is that I have battery voltage on both leads into the Ignition Control Module (ICM) when the key is switched on . My new external coil has battery voltage on the positive side with the key on and has 8 volts on the neg. side when cranking the engine , Above the 6 volt minimum the manual (page 5-40) calls for . At the bottom of the ICM (what the 1988 WSM page 5-40 calls both an igniter and a module) there are 2 leads for input signals that I ohm'ed out at 445 ohm's . This is where I find a problem with comparing it to the specs (900-1,200 ohm's) on page 5-38 of the WSM. The specs are for the pick-up coil and the diagram doesn't look like the ICM at all . ( Thanks for the link to the picture of the ICM ). So in essence , the 445 ohm's on the ICM is an unknown value to me at this point from what I can determine .It is unknown to me if the pick-up coil and ICM are wired together or not . I do not see where they could be but I am not sure . On the troubleshooting flow chart on page 5-40 it says to check the pickup-coil continuity , if " No Good - replace igniter (control module)" . On the Rock auto pictures of the pick-up coil it shows what looks like two leads covered with globs of rubber . Would this be where I check the pickup-coil continuity ? This would be what I think the manual calls for when it has the 900-1,200 ohm specs . I wish there was a way to test the ICM alone . Another question is does the ICM come off without removing the reluctor ? The reluctor looks like it could be difficult . I would like to just replace what is bad and save the money and time but I don't like rolling the dice and throwing money at something I cannot test as bad . I may very well have to go with a rebuilt or used distributor . As for the CEL Codes , I am going to clear The ECU and try again . If it doesn't give me code 1 I will disconnect the ICM leads and see if it will give me the ignition pulse code then . Any more advice such as how to test the ICM ETC. would be much appreciated !! Thanks Graybeard
  14. Weak Coil Spark Output ?

    I will look into it , thank you ! Graybeard
  15. Weak Coil Spark Output ?

    Thanks for the help sumdoode , much appreciated , I will post again tomorrow , gonna log off now. Graybeard .