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mike060 last won the day on October 15 2015

mike060 had the most liked content!

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  1. I replaced mine with used overflow tanks before, but they never lasted. With a car that is over 25 years old it will be hard to find a used one that is not deteriorating. I finally replaced mine with a dealer part for about $60. Then I never had to worry about it again. Auto part stores also sell them. https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/cooling---heating-16773/coolant-recovery-tank-13316/f7c5e4504203/1991/mazda/626
  2. I've heard of using compressed air to do this. But what if the compressor stops mid job? I just used a spring compressor from autozone parts store. They have a loan a tool, where you pay for the tool, then bring it back and get your money returned. The other one I used was from a mechanic friend.
  3. It is very unlikely that a check engine light would come on with the ignition timing a little off. Maybe the person doing the test did not know how to check timing on this vehicle. If you look at the lower valve cover the timing marks are on there. Then on the harmonic balancer there is a notch. With a timing light you would be able to see what the timing is set. If the tech knows what he is doing, then maybe your timing is off. Another thought is, the car uses a harmonic balancer, it is possible the timing notch on the balancer has slipped. The balancer is a two piece design with rubber separating the two pieces. As the balancer ages the rubber deteriorates. Then the outside can move without the inside moving. So the timing could be perfectly fine, but cant be checked. Here is a pic. You can check that by rotating the crank. If you move the crank key to the top. then the notch on the outside balancer should be at TDC.
  4. I have done it. It wasn't that hard just a little time consuming. The hardest part was getting the right spring compressor, and getting it in position with clearance to compress the spring. I used two different spring compressors. The one I used on the exhaust side would not work for the ones on the intake side, because of the clearance. Then after compressing the spring sometimes the retainers were stuck in there good. One popped off and flew, but luckily I did find it. Just take your time and its not a hard job. I assume you are familiar with the rope method so the valve wont drop onto the piston. This is not my video.
  5. I didn't have 2000 model. But I had this problem when I took out my sunroof fuse, not thinking it would affect brake lights. I don't have sunroof so I did not think it would affect anything. So if you removed any other fuses, even though your car does not have the option, might want to put it back if it was there to begin with.
  6. Are you talking about the Crank seal. Its not much more than a timing belt replacement. The exception is the center bolt to the crank gear has to come off ( not just the 10mm bolts that hold on the harmonic balancer ). Then you would have to use seal puller to get the old seal out. And the center bolt will have to be torqued back down. I can tell you how to make a special tool to hold the crank in place if you need.
  7. Nice job, those bushings make a huge difference. But on mine I was able to change four bushings with just nuts and bolts. But to get to all of them, the linkage had to be completely removed. Then the front where it connects to the transmission had to be drilled out, because it was riveted in. I attached a pic to show what I am talking about. Under the shifter had two bushing. the front had four, kind of like a U-joint. Sorry the pic is not a 626, but similar set up.
  8. The 1991 626 uses a cable. You can follow it from the firewall directly behind the speedometer, then down to the transmission. It is gear driven. The symptoms you mentioned point to a bad throttle body to air flow meter hose. Its the big hose. I would take it out and check for cracks.
  9. Pull the stored codes and see if it leads you to the problem. Turn off the car and ground the Green connector by the left strut tower. Then get inside the car, turn the ignition to on ( do not Start ). And count the flashes from the check engine light. There may be more than one code. And they will keep going over and over again while the key is turned to on. Here is a link of codes. Scroll down to Fuel Injected (Before 95) Except RX-7. Long pulse counts the first digit, Short pulse is for the second digit. http://www.troublecodes.net/mazda/
  10. Also make sure your not low on coolant. Low on coolant causes the temperature sensor to have false readings.
  11. Check the big hose that goes from the VAF (air flow meter ) to the throttle body. These tend to crack. The first time mine cracked was at 110,000 miles. Not knowing much about the car at that time I suspected fuel injectors. I went to the dealership and they said don.t even think about the injectors. They said they have never seen one fail. But now that it is much later, so maybe. I had my 1990 for about 25 years and never once had an injector issue. The only thing I did to the fuel system is replace the fuel filter once, and fix a leaky fuel hose from the filter to the rail.
  12. Its been years since I took mine out. I remember a plug, but can't remember if there was another black ground wire. Just called my friend that I gave my car to. I was going to go over there and grab some parts. But looks like he is still deciding if he wants to put another transmission in it.
  13. When my alternator went bad, I also had the red charge and rear warnings lights illuminated. If your belt is turning the alternator I would then suspect a bad alternator. It can be taken out through the top of the car if you take out your evaporator canister, so you can have it tested. Or completely charge your battery and your car should start. They tested mine on the car. If you are in Houston I have a working alternator. I have not called the wrecker yet to pick up my car. If I remember right the alternator has about 150,000 miles on it. So it is getting toward the end of its life. I think the first one lasted over 200,000 miles
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