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GodSquadMandrake

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GodSquadMandrake last won the day on September 3 2017

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About GodSquadMandrake

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    94 626 ES

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  1. So like everybody else I've had the famous slam shift from 1-2nd. The car had less than 70k miles on it too. I tried flushing the transmission and it didn't help. I bought the Trans Go 95931 shift kit. It's described as "Fits: 6 & 7 Solenoid Valve bodies Corrects: Rough 1-2 shift complaint without removing trans. Bang 1-2 shift. Rough 2-3 shift. 2-3 cutloose and burned plates. Won't move forward or reverse. Low line pressure. Total Burnup. Pump wear & low or no cooler flow." It was just $43.99 and its basically a box with a bunch of drill bits, springs and a va
  2. I got it fixed. The manual valve wasn't aligned with the shift rod.
  3. I recently installed a Trans Go shift kit which required removing the valve body. Now I think my gear selector is out of alignment. The car is in gear while in park, reverse is forwards, neutral is drive and I can't get it into L. Has anyone aligned the gear selector before?
  4. You separate the shaft from the extension shaft. There's a drawing in the manual how to do it. You need the crossmember off first of all. That'll require supporting the engine with a block of wood under the transmission pan and a jackstand or regular hydraulic jack. Just don't try to lift the whole car like this. Then from the driver's side, under the car, put a rod against the flange of the CV axle where it meets the extension shaft. Then pound that rod with a heavy hammer. It'll pop right out. Don't try to use an air hammer because it won't work. It's just held in by a circlip. Y
  5. I didn't unbolt that. The axle just plugs into a shaft right?
  6. I think it might be rollers and belts too. I don't think its electrical because thats too loud and too high pitched to be AC motor whine. It could be a bad bearing in the alternator though. If you don't figure it out, I'm sure whatever it is will make itself apparent pretty soon anyway.
  7. You need to use flare end wrenches for lines. He used a box end wrench and then tried to use vice grips judging by the marks. I don't see any way of fixing this without replacing the evaporator.
  8. It sounds like your new alternator didn't come with a voltage regulator or it has a bad one.
  9. No a sharp corner as in not flat, where the surface isn't level. Any edges where it might be uneven etc. Always use RTV sparingly because it's a giant mess to clean up when you have to remove it and change it the next time. On the valve cover itself, there should be a groove that the VCG fits into. When it's torqued, the rubber is squished into this groove further, spreads out and fills it so it should make a good seal and doesn't require any RTV. Also make sure that you clean the cylinder head surface before applying the RTV. It won't make a good seal if there's oil on it. I usually put some
  10. Good. Glad to hear it's running well again.
  11. You need to apply sealant where the cylinder head mates with another surface and in sharp corners, like around the camshaft caps. If it's leaking as badly as you say it is, something else is wrong though.
  12. If the engine is cold, like in the morning, does it run ok and then the problem starts happening and keeps happening once the engine is warm? That's what I mean by hot starts. I agree that the problem probably isn't ignition. As for the Mazda Millenia ECU and MAF mod, I don't have any experience with that so I can't really comment. One old trick with the MAF is to simply unplug it and see if the engine idles better. If it does, there might be a problem with the MAF signal. Did you replace the intake air temperature sensor or coolant temperature sensor?
  13. The 626 is jealous of the RX7. During cranking, the ECU is injecting a fixed amount of fuel but once the engine spins faster than 200 RPM, it switches to closed loop meaning that it's referencing the other sensors in the car to adjust the fuel trim. Your engine is stalling at that point which tells me a few things. 1) It's probably not ignition 2) Your fuel injectors are probably ok 3) There's a bad sensor. You should check your engine codes to see if it tells you which sensor is bad. If it's not throwing a code for an o2 sensor, it's probably the VAF or a coolant temperature sensor. I'm
  14. That's probably the front main seal. If it's the front main seal, it'll leak a lot faster when the car is running.
  15. I think it's called an expansion tank. It's fairly common to have those crack. Many people repair them with plastic weld or epoxy but it looks like that might've been attempted on yours already.
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