sailorbob

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About sailorbob

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    98 Mazda 626 2L

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  1. I have a P1632 DTC: "ECM (PCM) judges battery voltage below 8 volts" and one of the listed causes is a damaged ROOM fuse. So, what is the room fuse, where is it, and how can a fuse be damaged without being blown? I thought fuses either have continuity and work, or they're burned and don't? I looked in the fuse box under the hood, and didn't find it there, and the fuse panel under the dash doesn't have any labels, so I don't know which fuse is which. I have a US Haynes manual and the wiring diagram shows it in the "joint box" together with the engine fuse, but I don't know where the "joint box" is and if it's the same on European GF models ( mine is a 98 2L GF ATX ).
  2. OK, so I found the answer to my own question here on the site here: Basically the dash temp gauge is operated by a separate single wire temp sender unit as described in the above post, and it's apparently gone bad.
  3. I was out on a road trip recently and my temperature gauge on the dash started going on wonky, then seemed to stop working. I pulled out ForScan and the ECT seems to be reporting the temperature correctly, but the temp gauge is pegged low most of the time and sometimes seems to bounce around randomly, even while the ECU is showing a steady reading via ForScan. Any ideas what might be going on?
  4. You could try on rockauto.com if you live in the USA.
  5. I got the following response from the guys at rockauto:
  6. As can clearly be seen in the picture, the injectors on my 98 Mazda 626 2L GF are different colors: This is even mentioned in the official Workshop Service Manual: However, both according to the manual and my tests, all the injectors have the same flow rate; about 56-61ml when held open for 15 seconds. The issue is that I may need to replace my injectors, yet when I look on Rockauto, all the injectors seem to be sold individually, and all the ads recommend replacing them as a set, yet with no mention of color. So what is the significance of the color, and as a bonus, how can I order replacement injectors if no mention of color is made on any of the injectors being sold?
  7. Yeah, it turns out that although it's rare, sometimes these water pumps need a little "breaking in" period. I asked someone about it:
  8. So it turned out that the brand new water pump was making the noise, but it went away on it's own. The way we figured it out was we recorded the sound and loaded it into an audio editor to look at the waveform and saw that it was clicking at 16 clicks per second and then did some calculations to see that the only thing rotating at 16 Hz was the water pump. You can read more about it here if you're interested: http://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q/38580/7132
  9. This is a non-interference engine, so even if it were to jump time it wouldn't damage the engine. Anyways, I just pulled the upper timing cover and took a video of it running and the tension on the belt is just fine. However, I'm thinking that maybe the new belt is putting more pressure on the tensioner and idler than the old belt and it's causing the bearings in them to make noise. The video will be live in a few minutes: https://youtu.be/hFZ2v20QCfM
  10. So even though this thread is quite old, I've actually got a few things to add, and then a question. If you've only got hand tools one way to tighten the crank pulley bolt is to put the PS / AC belt around just the crank pulley and the AC pulley and use a vise grip to clamp it down like this: I was able to tighten down the crank pulley bolt no problem like this. One caveat is that this probably isn't too good for the belt, and I'll probably replace it sometime soon. I did something similar when torquing down the water pulley bolts. Another thing was attaching the tensioner spring. I just used an allen wrench to pull the tensioner all the way towards the engine mount bracket and then held it in place with a zip tie like this: As can be seen, the two attachment points for the tensioner spring are as close as possible in this position and it only took about ten seconds to get the spring on like this. Now comes my question. After I got everything reassembled I started up the engine. I had been running the engine for a few minutes, revved it up to around 3k rpms a few times and started and stopped it a few times. At some point I noticed a strange sound which seemed to be coming from the timing belt area. If I had to guess, I would guess it was the sound of the timing belt flopping around due to it being loose. I never heard such a sound from that area before. I reused the tensioner, the spring and the idler pulley as they all seemed to be in good condition, although I've never done this before so what do I know. The things that somewhat stood out to me where that it was fairly easy to get the new belt on ( most people said it was a real PITA ), I simply used the allen wrench to turn the tensioner left until the allen wrench hole was exactly to the left of the tensioner bolt. I put the belt just a little bit over the cam sprockets first, then worked it fairly easily a little onto the crank sprockets, then went around with a rubber mallet gently tapping it into place, a little at a time. It took under five minutes. The other thing I noticed was that after I removed the zip tie, the tensioner moved back quite a bit, and the tensioner spring was maybe stretched to 2.5 times it's resting length. I don't know what's normal here, I don't have any basis for comparison. I'm thinking that if the noise really is the belt flopping around, then maybe even though there was 100% no noise like this before, and even though the tensioner spring looked fine, maybe it's just not strong enough to deal with a brand new belt? I'd really like to hear what people think as I'm a bit afraid to drive it till I figure out what this noise is and I don't want to just throw parts at it.
  11. So it turns out the timing was done about 80,000 kilometers ago, so I figured I might as well put a new belt on while I was in there... Haven't done it yet, gotta find a crank puller somewhere around here. It hard to get automotive tools in my country.
  12. OK, so it turns out the fins on my water pump are completely toast: Cranked the engine a little to get video of the whole thing and there is just one little stub of a fin left. So now my issue is do I replace the timing at the same time? I'm pretty sure the timing was done not too many years ago; and the timing belt looks really good without and real signs of cracking or other wear as far as I can tell.
  13. I was thinking of doing a citric acid flush like the guy in this video. I also found out that the black sediment I got out when I backflushed the radiator was aluminum oxide apparently.
  14. Yeah, I parked on a hill and was able to get coolant flowing into the heater core, although it seems like it's partially clogged since the output hose doesn't get nearly as hot as the input hose and I'm only getting a little warm air from it. I'll probably need to either find a really steep hill or jack it up and put it on stands to finish getting the air out. Apparently the heater core hoses aren't the original ones and they're too long, so I had to play with them to get them positioned so the air could escape.
  15. I drained the coolant and back flushed both the radiator and heater core, then let everything completely drain. I hooked everything back up, except the hose to the IAC since it's the highest point in the system, and filled as much as I could from the filler neck. I then went through the WSM procedure of idling till the fan comes on, running at 3k rpm for a minute, shutting off, filling at the neck, repeat. However, I'm getting excessive expansion into the overflow bottle, in fact overflowing it, and when I feel the two hoses to the heater core they are both ambient temperature. The thermostat works fine and the bottom radiator hose is hot ( not as hot as the top one of course ). So I'm wondering what is going on? Could I have air trapped in the heater core that's expanding to force fluid out and not letting fluid in? Do I need to disconnect one of the heater core hoses and fill it manually? I know it's not clogged because water flowed through it with no problem when I back flushed it.