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Mr_Stillwell

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Mr_Stillwell last won the day on April 8 2016

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About Mr_Stillwell

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  1. I've been using masterpro belts from O'Reillys. And sumdoode, you're absolutely right, I never bothered to check the alignment before because the alternator is brand new (remanufactured) this winter. But after being taken out, the pulley is visibly not parallel to the alternator body! I'll warranty the part and hopefully I'll be back in business for good.
  2. Hey guys! Starting to get really annoyed by a drive belt problem. Just replaced the belt for the umpteenth time this season. Had this 626 for a year, and never had a problem with the belt till late winter. Now I've replaced it five or six times as it keeps breaking while I'm on the highway. I've had the belt tensioned to my service manuals spec and it's fine for a week, then it starts chirping and eventually squealing before breaking off a few weeks down the road. It's not glazed or cracked or excessively worn, but the tensile cords snap.. Can anybody shed some light on this? Should I try to tension it less orwhat?
  3. I got a new battery from autozone (it was still under warranty) and popped it in, the car started but is displaying those lights faintly again., I'm thinking since the lights shouldn't be analog (keyword shouldn't) that maybe the alternator ground is bad. I just replaced the belt because an adjustment ear bolt broke on a bumpy road, so it might have messed up the ground too. Does anyone know where its grounded? Much appreciated
  4. Update: my car has stopped starting without being jumped. It cut off on the highway, but when I checked the battery it was still at just over 12 volts. Wouldn't start again without being jumped, and it's been dropping voltage since
  5. @mx6 Paul only the turbos from 626 gts, probes and mx-6's will fit without any fabricated parts. Other small turbos might be able to fit with some fab, and Leev might have an even better idea of what will work aftermarket having turbo'd his n/a.
  6. My car ate it's second alternator belt this weekend. Finally realized it was a issue with the ear that hopefully loctite will fix. But ever since I put the new belt on, the "rear" and "charge" warning lights have very faintly been on. I thought maybe it was just too loose, so I tightened it and the warning lights turned all the way on at idle, but dimmed and cut out at higher revs. Everything looked fine, the belt deflection was in spec and it was perfectly on the track so I just left it. Eventually they just turned back to that very dim red all the time, I'm wondering what causes this and hopefully avoid a future problem by fixing it now.
  7. I'm not sure that the ECU can store any codes without having the car on. Try charging your battery and leaving the car on for a bit, but I don't think you'll get the codes related to running condition (e.g. self diagnosis of temp sensor, maf, etc) without being able to start the engine
  8. Will do, thanks for the help. And yeah, I wanted to avoid changing the master because it's a pain. I've noticed as it gets colder around here that its much easier to brake on cold starts on cold mornings, and at high revs than low revs. Do you think it might be the booster? Or what could cause the performance/pedal travel to change with temperature?
  9. This was a long time ago, but I took video of me doing the mounts back then, found it again and should upload soon. The three easy ones took me an hour with my crappy hand tools and the rear atx mount took me another 2 hour + lot of cursing and a six pack. Parts, beer and the emotional damage it caused me still wasn't worth 650, flippin ridiculous. About 150 bucks, 30 a mount and 65 for the rear, plus a repair manual still 1/4 as cheap as the shop estimate. I work at one and I still think they're crooks If I can cut the video down Ill upload it and post a link
  10. On the 91 sedan, n/a. I know my way around a soldering iron and a chip, but car wiring isn't exactly my forte. I'm trying to install my dad's old ( 70's?) Speaker horn for the nostalgia and can't find a firewall diagram in my repair manual. Haven't had the dash apart yet, can anyone tell me a good place to pass wire through it, closest to the EC-AT computer by the strut tower (the speaker will be mounted from the strut tower into that big empty space between the EC-AT and the brake booster). Thanks!
  11. When I did my front brakes, I did bleed them, but not the back ones. I don't think there's any leakage because the calipers (and cylinders for the drums) are dry and I haven't lost any fluid since I filled it
  12. On my 91 626 (non turbo, so front disc, rear drum brakes) the brake pedal has to be depressed very far before starting to stop the car. I don't know anything about drum brakes, but I've checked the master cylinder and its not leaked any fluid since I did my front brakes 4 months ago. It had the pressure problem even before doing my brakes (pads and calipers, machined rotors myself) and I'm unsure how to troubleshoot it.
  13. The five year old mistook my repair manual for a coloring book... That said, does anybody have the wiring diagrams? I need to find the relay for the seatbelt motor
  14. Oh, the quad grounded plugs? Those are expensive. I'd never recommend copper, they don't last as long and have a sharper performance curve than plat/iridium.
  15. Oh, the quad grounded plugs? Those are expensive. I'd never recommend copper, they don't last as long and have a sharper performance curve than plat/iridium.
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