typukatch

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About typukatch

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    2000 Mazda 626 ES V6
  1. Ask and ye shall receive! I also put all of the real time data gauges together on one convenient screen so you can see everything at once. I also realized that my app was set to a 2.0 liter displacement instead of 2.5 liters, so that might have explained some of the funny readings which you mentioned... my apologies on that: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3OMmL31IzRHRUtscExSTUxVQUU/view?usp=sharing Looks like it's in a closed loop... and that my vacuum goes down a bit and that the fuel trim gaps widen slightly on acceleration. I start revving it in park around :40. I also put the temperature in fahrenheit for your convenience. I have been looking at a lot of your other posts on here, and I think I need to get in there again, given the car's miles (233k), and just make sure to clean all of the EGR ports a lot again. Cars this old get really dirty a lot easier. Last time I cleaned the EGR ports they were completely clogged. Or maybe I have a slight vacuum leak somewhere. As always, would love your thoughts. Thank you again, DJ (and everyone else here), Ty
  2. Hey DJ, thanks so much for your quick response! I have taken your advice and used Torque Pro with an ELM327 device, with the following outputs (while the car is in drive with my foot on the brake): https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3OMmL31IzRHenhnbXZVaVhDTUk/view?usp=sharing Also, I am terribly sorry, I originally said that it was an 0421 error, when it was actually an 0431 (Warm Up Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 2) error. As luck would have it, it appears that I also have a returning 0400 (EGR) code now too, lol Anyways, I tried to add as many gauges as I thought would be pertinent to our issue here. Some don't get readings. For the "in focus" items, per your response, the key: Fuel Trim: LTFT1 is long term fuel trim for bank one F/T 1X1 is fuel trim bank one sensor 1 STFT1 is short term fuel trim for bank one LTFT2 is long term fuel trim for bank two F/T 2X1 is fuel trim bank two sensor 1 STFT2 is short term fuel trim for bank two **NOTE: be sure to check out the second set of these readings in the video, at 2:43... for whatever reason, the long term fuel trim for bank two gets a reading the second time but not the first time.** Oxygen Sensors: O2 1x1 is Volts bank 1 sensor 1 O2 1x2 is Volts bank 1 sensor 2 O2 2x1 is Volts bank 2 sensor 1 O2 2x2 is Volts bank 2 sensor 2 I took a look at the videos you provided, and based on them, it appears that my fuel trim is okay and that my oxygen sensors would be working? Although I don't know why I'm not getting a long term fuel trim 1 reading? I maybe should have revved it more in park, like in the videos you provided above, to get a better idea of a potential vacuum, leak, but I honestly believe that this would not be the problem as the vacuum gauge shows a tight vacuum and I don't have a terrible loss of power. Likely could be wrong, though. Here is another video I took of the car revving and really struggling to get out of second gear (first to second gear appears to shift fine): https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3OMmL31IzRHSWVUcF9RcHBWb1U/view?usp=sharing I think this particular problem is indicative of a faulty neutral safety switch, because the car will lose its idle and stall if I stop suddenly and also takes a bit of time to switch gears from drive/park/reverse. It also appears, from this forum and others, that a faulty neutral safety switch can also cause the things just mentioned and uncontrolled revving. Or perhaps something to do with the TPS sensor? In any event, I'm sure the 0431 code (and the EGR code for that matter, too), all have something to do with the shifting problem as well. What do you think? Ty
  3. Have been doing some reading about the P0421 codes on here. I got one a few months ago. It came and went a few times. Seems like it could be my downstream O2 sensor, judging from the other posts on here. Or, it could be something else (vacuum leak? cat itself? precat? a timing belt? spark plugs?) However, the car hesitates more and more now (since last month) and struggles to get out of 2nd gear but still has plenty of power after the hesitation. Would a faulty downstream O2 sensor still cause this? It is a 2000 Mazda 626 ES V6 with 230k miles. The EGR valve was cleaned two months ago and all the sparkplugs were replaced with NGK plugs about two years ago. Your thoughts would be MUCH appreciated. Thank you so much, Ty
  4. Thank you, DJ. Just thought I should add that your videos are highly enjoyable. I remember in one you spent about a minute and a half explaining why some rusted beam in your garage was not a good grounding point. Sounded like you really had it out for the beam. I thought it was hilarious. You have good personality and it shows (on the videos and here). Many of us really do appreciate your guidance and advice more than is communicated. Thanks again. Ty
  5. Hmmm.... maybe time to look at the Miata more closely. Thank you DJ, Xeno and Mike. So no fans of the rotary engine here, eh? Ty
  6. Hey guys, My mechanic magically "fixed" my rough idle (sounded like a small vacuum leak, although I had no loss of power) problem by (and I quote), "running some carbon through the system to clean it out." Is that... possible? Also, I'd like to think that I'm a "Mazda" man now, and want to buy something Mazda and sporty for my next car. Seems like the Miata's a bit girly... maybe go rotary with the RX? Any other suggestions? Cheers, Ty
  7. Thank you, DJ and 97. DJ, how did you surmise that the TPS wasn't responding to RPM changes at all? Also, it seems like the throttle plate only gets stuck right after I hit the brakes rather suddenly, and only when the car is cold. In any event, after playing with the EGR valve, the idle air valve, cleaning everything out, etc... (and I hope I didn't stretch the throttle cable or anything -- don't think so), I think I might just take it to my trusted mechanic to do a tuneup after all that work. There is nothing seriously wrong with the car, and I don't have any of the special machines (or knowledge) they have to calibrate everything (idle, etc) perfectly, especially for an older car. Tuneups are relatively cheap, and one could really go a long way preventative-wise for a car like mine, rather than me spending countless hours trying to do one myself, where margin for error is slim to none. I will, however, look into greasing the throttle body sidewall where the butterfly pin joints are, per your instructions. Cheers, Ty
  8. Hi Sticky! Thank you for your response... The problem was eventually solved... it was just some crossed wires in back. Thank you again! Ty
  9. Alright, got the Torque pro app and got a video for y'all... (it was after my car ride home so the car was sufficiently warmed up, per your request, DJ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OVbIElBde0A Put the vid into full screen mode so you can see everything. Right about at the 1:05 minute mark (it's only four mins long), I put the car into drive, with my foot on the brake. The idle speed, in drive, might be a tad low at an average of 630 revs, but everything else sort of looks fine. Interesting that that potential issue with my throttle plate getting stuck open (or is it getting stuck closed?) only happens when the car is cold, first thing in the morning. What would cause this? Would it be worth just buying a used or aftermarket TPS sensor and replacing it? Would love to know your thoughts again... Cheers, Ty
  10. Cool, thank you DJ and tsmys. I will just get a string of sorts and get some grease in there by the pins. What grease works best? I got some petroleum jelly... Or I can go out and buy whatever, let me know... Cheers, Ty
  11. Awesome, thanks... I think you may be right about the throttle plate being stuck. My throttle plate is actually pretty clean, but there were some extremely hard to remove stains of sorts on the sides (where it touches the throttle body), which might still cause just enough friction to get stuck in the closed position when it is not supposed to. When you hit the brakes on a car, what happens to the throttle plate? Closes completely? Slight opening? Closes completely first then slight opening? I would prefer your advice on the grease versus trying to get those stains out (and possibly damaging the TB in the process). I only drive the car about 5,000 miles a year, and it's not a huge pain in the ass, just kind of annoying. Interesting as to how it only happens when the car is cold, though. I will get some pipe cleaner or something and try and pack grease into wherever the metal on the throttle plate valve touches the surrounding metal when in the closed position, yeah? Any particular grease you recommend? I will also get some torque app data for you tonight and see about the TPS signal. Cheers, Ty
  12. I know, right? It's possessed. It was fine on my commute this morning, though. Sometimes, in the first few minutes, maybe because it's cold, if I stop suddenly, the idle will get "stuck" at 800 or so while not actually idling/throttling, but then a quick tap of the gas will push the idle back to normal, although sometimes in doing this, the idle will rumble briefly to the 400 range but then immediately jump back to the normal range and idle normally. Then, for the rest of the ride, it will be fine. Dunno. Car has 230k miles, so I'm not surprised. In any event, I took your guys' advice and did the best I could with how comfortable I was willing to go and am very satisfied with the result, which is a better ride and no CEL. Can't complain! Thank you again. I wouldn't have known what to do without this forum. Truly. You guys make a difference, saving hundreds -- if not thousands -- of dollars even for guys across the country like me. What kind of stuff do you take your car into the mechanic for? I would also be interested in any advice you had about those smartphone OBD-II programs like Torque. I have Torque on my Android, which I used to pull the P0400 engine code, and I actually quite like the program. Wouldn't mind seeing if I could do my own tuneup of sorts with it. You have any experience with these? Ty
  13. Update: I got in there and cleaned out the two ports behind the EGR valve pretty good (they were straight clogged -- I am kicking myself for not getting a photo). Car sounded great after I took it for a subsequent test drive. The CEL has not come back on since, which is a good thing, since it would have come back on by now. I know because I had thought it was just an error before for adjusting the Idle Air, and I manually took it off and it reappeared minutes later. One question, though... this morning, on my morning commute, it was fine at first, then it started sounding like it had a small vacuum leak, and then the idle dropped and the car stalled. However, I restarted and drove it (because I was in the middle of the street lol), but it leveled out after a few seconds and returned to a perfect, smooth idle for the rest of the drive (twenty or so minutes). Acceleration was also fine. I didn't do anything except clean out the EGR portholes with a dentist pick sort of tool and abundant paper towels and TB cleaner, making very careful to not drop any bits down the holes (although I might have missed a few specks). I didn't have a vacuum. What do you think? Maybe the car needs a tuneup? Was it just some of the old carbon bits cycling through the system? OBD-II computer readjusting itself? Scared the sh*t out of me, though. Worst feeling ever, when you think you fixed your car, told your wife, had a celebratory beer, etc... and then BAM, wait, no. Cheers, Ty
  14. Thank you, DJ, Tsmys and 97Mazda (and NickR, you're out there somewhere).... you guys have been invaluable. Saved me hundreds of dollars and instilled a little elbow grease confidence in the process. Too many girly men out there these days, I tell ya. Gettin' pedicures and sh*t. I will find a tool or even use a spare skinny nail to try and carefully scrape off as much stuff as I can and try to figure something out with a vacuum. Thank you for your support and patience. It is true that fixing your own car rocks (especially when taking it to a mechanic is expensive). When I fixed it the first time, I was so excited I ran out and punted a small animal. You guys make the world go 'round. Truly. I will let you know how it goes!
  15. Man, I'm not gonna lie... that's some heavy duty stuff with the valve, and I'm no mechanic (what I'm saying is that I ain't got your skills). I may just end up taking off the EGR valve and cleaning out the ports in the intake manifold the best I can with some TB cleaner, etc, and hope for the best, since these clogged ports is what everyone seems to think most commonly throws these codes up. Cheers, Ty