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About thewheelerZ

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    1998 but now 1993, 626, LX-V6

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  1. Awesome! Good luck at Sebring!
  2. By the way, to RacerX being down in Texas, I hope you and family and friends are all safe and sound down there. Stay safe man.
  3. Looks good. Im a bit surprised that the gauges are hard to read in the sun. Interesting though, RacerX said he replaced the digital gauges so he could get more accurate readings from his drivers. I always thought my drivers were better at reading our dial style gauges, but have had some radio messages that are wildly inaccurate when I go back and review the video. I like how the dials basically say "all good" if the dial is pointing straight up. I think if I were to do it over though, I'd go with digital and use the idiot lights for high water temp and low oil pressure.
  4. Hahaha, Id be knocking on wood or crossing your fingers saying stuff like that! Might as well be waxing the car while your at it!
  5. I was thinking about that actually. Our diagnosis was just a worn out caliper. Replaced both rear calipers and all is well again. The guys we buy pads from at Frozen Rotors say that try great calipers as a wear item and replace once per year. We will be doing the same now as well along with our normal service and lube before each race.
  6. I cant seem to find a picture of the final produce, but we simply riveted in an aluminum plate into that opening, then cut a hole big enough for a muffler reducer. We cut it all up as it was way too big then left two small tabs from the front/big part that we could bend out and bolt the whole thing to the aluminum plate. We use an old vacuum hose (2"? 2.5" maybe?) and it routes really easily through to the wheel well. At the brake end, we inserted a short length of PVC pipe for strength/rigidity and use one simple ziptie to hold it in place on the lower control arm. Points pretty much in the direction of the center of the rotor and is maybe a couple inches away. I agree, that with the big brakes, there should be no issue with fade with or without the ducts. Though, our brakes last so long that I don't want to mess with increased wear by letting them get hotter than they do. SO we just run it as it is.
  7. As to the vented hood, we tried to keep the vents in the front 1/3 where I think (with my limited aero experience) the pressure would be lowest. I would be more concerned about the lack of headlights. Lots of little areas in those areas for air to bypass the rad. I also agree though, that from what we have seen with the V6, high temps are a symptom not the root cause. The cooling system should be enough to keep up. Side note: the 98+ radiator is MUCH thinner (like almost half of the width). I think that rad doesn't have enough to keep up, but the 93-97 should be ok. Disclaimer, we run a thicker aluminum rad.
  8. Who me? Non stock tank??? I don't know anything about Mazda 626 gas tanks.... But yeah, we put in the tank we had from the 98 we used to run. What did you do for venting? We removed all of the emissions/carbon canister stuff and tried to use that same outlet as a vent. It didn't work perfectly as there is some funny routing inside of the tank and it catches an air bible before it is totally full. We simply stuck a big drill bit in that outlet and drill into where it "turns" toward the drivers side. But the tank was out and empty when we did. I THINK (can't remember, would have to go back to my notes) that we used the 93 filler neck as it seemed a bit larger diameter. though, the critical path is the inlet bung to the 98 tank as it is a smaller diameter.
  9. Cool, yeah, Ive heard that about replacing just the ball joint. Good to know. Hahaha, I didn't even think about the brake dust. But yes, good point!
  10. We finally got around to tearing the car down a bit. Found some good stuff. After a bit of a look at the exhaust headers and comparing to some pics on the internet, I am fairly certain that it was the EGR bung blowing out. That would coincide with the big noise when it failed. The driver (my mom was in the car at the time) radioed in saying she ran something over but didn't know what. On the video, you can hear a bit of a bang and the exhaust note changes right away. All good though, it was fairly easy to get off once the transverse subframe is taken off, and $20 for our exhaust guys to weld a little patch over it (man, we need to learn to weld!). Our car wont sound like a tractor anymore! Then we about tearing apart the front suspension to see if we could find the noise/vibration. There was still no end play in the wheel bearing. Though, after crawling around under the car we could see the ball joint wiggling around as we were trying to shake the tire/wheel. After getting the struts and spindle off you could definitely tell that the ball joint had gone. So pretty sure we have found the problem. After looking around, we weren't able to find any standalone ball joints for a decent price. So our plan is to simply replace the entire lower control arm with a new part. Is there a better way to do this? While the spindles are off, we are also going to go ahead and replace the wheel bearings. They have around 70 race hours on them, so Im a bit surprised they haven't failed yet as it is. A few other items we have on the list are not imperative, but we are getting at them now as there is plenty of time before we race again in September. - Relocating the surge tank to the rear wheel well from its current location in the engine compartment. It may be a bit more susceptible to a rear end collision back there but should be pretected well enough. It does get it, and all the additional fuel lines, away from heat sources though, so I think safer in the end. We will move the battery box to the far passenger side trunk area to make room for the surge in the spare wheel well. Then plan on covering it over with a thin sheet of aluminum. - Make a hanger for our steering wheel. We are finding drivers tend to push it up towards the windshield and it has broken a couple of the defroster lines. So want to get away from doing that. - Adding additional venting to the fuel tank as we still have trouble dumping a 5 gallon jug in less than 20 seconds without it overflowing. I am hoping this time we will finally get enough venting, otherwise we may need to look into a dedicated bung/fitting welded into the top of the tank to solve it. - We want to block off the hole under the fenders that goes from the front wheel well into the cabin. We are getting a bunch of rubber in the car, and at times hot rubber flying into your eyes. Im hoping that blocking this area will solve that, or at least cut it down a bit. We are planning to cut and push in the rear part of the fenders. This should give a bit of venting to the tires/wheel wells and also block off that hole. Any remaining gap we should be able to get pretty easily with some Coroplast and gorilla tape.
  11. Those are going to be perfect. Nice choice!
  12. Car looks awesome! Nice work
  13. A bit of decent video. Here is me starting on Saturday. Went from around 32nd taking the green to as high as 3rd. Handed the car off in 5th after nearly 2 hours. and here is another one in the rain of me finishing on Sunday. Was having fun and pushing hard. Maybe too hard!! I backed off after my 2nd spin. Fun to watch at least!
  14. 10th and 13th overall. Pretty solid weekend all things considered. I wondered about the heat, especially seeing as the previous race was in perfect fall conditions (10-15 degrees C, dry, sunny). I will find some time to pull out our lap timer data and see what kind of corner speeds we had vs speeds on the straights.
  15. Hmmm. Wonder how a diff issue would be diagnosed without pulling it apart? Maybe a good opportunity for a LSD anyways! Extra bung... I was thinking that too since it was so perfectly round looking. Will get a better look once they come off the car. Im not too concerned about the dents. Will probably just bang them out. It was such a nice looking car before that though!