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thewheelerZ last won the day on August 15 2017

thewheelerZ had the most liked content!

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  1. We didn't run poly on the front, no. Just never ended up getting it done. We did have King6 send a set of bushing for front LCA, but they didn't fit for some reason and we never investigated to find out why (different part #? who knows) and the idea died on the table. For endurance, the current go to tire is the Hankook RS-4. We are running them now on our new car and are seeing good wear and grip despite our heavy Maxima. We ran 255/40/17 on a 9" wheel with RS3s and Nankang NS2Rs. The hankooks were far and away the better tire and similar price point too. If you stick with 8" wheel, the 235 is probably a good bet. To be honest though, with the weight of the probe/mx6/626, we always wanted to drop down to a 15" wheel. I always found the Mazda6 brakes (needing the 17" wheel) were overkill and could be reduced. Maybe even a 15x10 with a 245/40/15??!! Would be killer with better "gearing" with smaller tire diameter, lighter setup and maintain the width. Finding a big wide (light weight) 15" wheel with 5x114 is the issue though. I think Basset makes some for circle track guys that could work.
  2. Hey guys, sorry for a slow reply. Rmlunsford, I think you sent me a message on facebook too, but I don't go on there much at all anymore. As for the angle of control arms, I agree, Id say don't over think that too much either. Both our front and rear control/lateral arms were angled upwards slightly. With a 255/40/17 there was about 1 finger worth of wheel gap to the fender, but we had rolled the fenders out quite a bit to ensure they didn't rub. We also used the Yonaka coilovers and thought they were really good for the price point. The springs end up being in the 450/350 lb/in range if I remember correctly. We also ran the AWR rear anti roll bar. The car really handled very well in that state. I know when RacerX drove it, he liked it to be a bit more loose in the rear, but I found it super easy and consistent to drive being a bit more neutral. Before the car wrecked, I was planning on going to a SLIGHTLY stiffer set of springs all around to try to limit a bit of the roll. We were also lifting the rear inner tire in most corners too much (I think its not necessarily a bad thing, but we were doing it too easily and it was going too high). Was thinking 500/400 or 500/450. Depending on what tires you run you may be just fine for now with the softer yonaka coils. As for rear camber, I personally wouldn't worry about that too much. We saw very even wear on our rear tires just using stock setup to the max camber (about 1-1.5 degrees if I remember correctly). There is so little weight on the rear, I doubt you would see any significant gain from messing with that. From what I remember, the 2.0 and 2.5 all use the same bolt pattern and should all work just the same. I think, the 98-02 has a very slight gear change for the better (in 4th or 5th gear), but in reality I believe its all the same. We never did it, but Mazdaspeed LSD should work in both. As mentioned, if you haven't already, swap out to the King6Fab trailing arms. They will give poly bushings, but also will be much stronger. I don't think the stock trailing arms will last long and the bigger King6 version is a better bet for endurance. Let me/us know if you have any other questions, more than happy to help!
  3. Nice work guys. It amazing what the 626 can do with solid driving.
  4. Yeah, the trademark came off the name from the time when it was CART so they picked it up. Re-branding. Same series basically.
  5. So... what are we going to race next? Similar idea, just way more power. Family sedan. Japanese. 2002 Nissan Maxima. 3.5 L V6, 6 Speed manual. 255 hp. I suspect it wont handle like the mazdas do, but it certainly will not be in need of horsepower! Again, thanks to everyone for the help over the 3-4 years we have been hanging around on this forum. Im firmly in the Mazda fanboy camp now, daily drive a Mazda 6 Wagon and am firmly rooting for the IMSA Prototypes to run strong next year. Hopefully can be back in a Mazda race car again soon!
  6. This is looking in through the passenger door, rear is toward the top. The hole in the middle is the trailing arm doing a can opener impression. Base plate held. This is the right rear shock tower. Obviously did not hold and was ripped clear at the base plate weld. Can see the seam pulling apart as it crumpled. Looking down through rear passenger window. Front towards the bottom. This is the main cage hoop and base plate. Finally, here is the front shock and spindle. The front right too a decent hit apparently. Broke the shock mounting to the spindle. We also noticed (though forgot to take pics) that the transmission had cracked at the rear mount (where it attaches to the firewall area. Some decent force doing a lot of damage that is for sure. And, here is us trying to get the rear wheel off so we could salvage brakes and such. Even though it was already broken and garbage, it was still pretty tough to cut up an Enkei RPF1 to get it out! Never did come out, was crushed into fender too much and we gave up.
  7. I figured I would post a bit of this info up to help close out this thread. It looking like our Mazda days have come to an end (at least for now) as we have bought another marque for a new build race car. First off though, thanks to everyone here on the forum, all have been very helpful and have a great little community going. The 626 has been an amazing little car for us and we are sad to see it go. It appears that I never posted up video of the crash, so here it is: Mostly driver error in that he was too timed in corner entry and didn't get back on the gas hard enough after turn in to keep the rear planted. All small correction near the apex with maybe a slight breath off the throttle and the rear came around. Not fast enough with some countersteer and not enough opposite lock on the wheel either (should have steered harder and further) and he basically gives up once he passes the point of no return. In the aftermath we stripped out what we could and tried to take some pics of the remains for learning purposes. The cage held up reasonably well and certainly did its job of creating a safety cell around the driver. The seat mounts were woefully inadequate though and the seat was too far away from the back brace to do any good at all (no pics of that). Entire rear of car crumpled an pushed into the gas tank. You can see the seam weld is very close to "tearing" completely and opening up the tank. Luckily it didn't as exhaust was pressed up against that spot. The side mounts for the seat were bolted to the OEM sliders. The sliders stayed mounted well to the floor, but the bolts pulled right through the metal. No washer was able to fit within that inner part of the slider, we always assumed that if that is how they bolt the OEM seats, then good enough for us. Definitely not adequate. We will be going to a proper racing slider for our next build.
  8. Yep, we are really happy he walked away. Haha, a racing Jaguar! I will see what our plan is. Still really like the 6262 and not sure if we are ready to give that up just yet. But also not sure we are ready for the time, money and effort of a new build. We will see. BTW, I saw you guys get an honourable mention in a Lemons wrap up video the other day. Nice work!
  9. Well... its been a while since I posted any updates on here. We installed some nice little LED daytime running lights. Replaced the control arms (ball joints) with new. And we moved the surge tank to the rear. We went to race the final race of the year at Calabogie Motorsports Park. A great little circuit with some really tricky technical turns and some plat out 4th gear high speed stuff too. The car was really loose for some reason. (RacerX, similar or more so to how it was on the Sunday at Watkins when running the Nankang tires on the rear). I have no idea why, our alignment settings should have been the same as normal. Maybe the rear shocks were going? I personally like it to drive more neutral with more of a tendency to push. Anyways, doesn't really matter now. My dad went out and had a solid stint. Not the fastest, but he improved his lap times significantly over the first half then settled in to run very consistent laps in the 2nd half of his stint. Our second driver went out, and one hour in lost the rear end in T1. T1 is a fairly flat out 4th gear corner with only a slight lift before going back to full throttle through the apex to drive out of it. Car spun, went straight to the inside wall. Front right bounced off of a tire wall immediately sending the rear right into the concrete wall directly beside it (its actually a temporary tire wall backed by concrete blocks to guard the lower pit/paddock entrance). Car is looking like a complete write-off at this point. not sure if anything will be salvageable from shocks at all corners, to engine mounts, headers, surge tank, etc). Belts will go in the garbage, same with drivers helmet, still looking into whether or not the seat need to go in the garbage too. Good news is that the driver walked away without even a scratch. Says he doesn't even really feel stiff this morning. Checked out for concussion at track and later at hospital and was given full go ahead both times. We are all pretty bummed about this one. All really loved that car. But all VERY happy driver walked away. No idea what we will do in terms of building a new car as life and funds aren't looking all that kindly upon that prospect at the moment! Eventually I hope. Will give a more detailed run down of the accident and "learning points" of where we could improve our build as we get into tearing down the car.
  10. Awesome! Congrats guys! Was following along on race monitor and was excited to see you steadily climbing the leaderboard.
  11. By the way, to RacerX being down in Texas, I hope you and family and friends are all safe and sound down there. Stay safe man.
  12. Looks good. Im a bit surprised that the gauges are hard to read in the sun. Interesting though, RacerX said he replaced the digital gauges so he could get more accurate readings from his drivers. I always thought my drivers were better at reading our dial style gauges, but have had some radio messages that are wildly inaccurate when I go back and review the video. I like how the dials basically say "all good" if the dial is pointing straight up. I think if I were to do it over though, I'd go with digital and use the idiot lights for high water temp and low oil pressure.
  13. Hahaha, Id be knocking on wood or crossing your fingers saying stuff like that! Might as well be waxing the car while your at it!
  14. I was thinking about that actually. Our diagnosis was just a worn out caliper. Replaced both rear calipers and all is well again. The guys we buy pads from at Frozen Rotors say that try great calipers as a wear item and replace once per year. We will be doing the same now as well along with our normal service and lube before each race.
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