thewheelerZ

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About thewheelerZ

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  • Car
    1998 but now 1993, 626, LX-V6

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  1. Yeah, it would be a pretty hard choice to go with an aftermarket turbo for an endurance racer there is no doubt. We wont be going turbo at any point soon. Speed and power is so tempting though!
  2. By the way, what is your other car?
  3. Cool. Sounds good. At 225 points, the 626 should be a car that could be a contender. LOTs of options that could be used. KLZE or some type of clone would be high on the list. My teammates keep muttering turbo something something too! But I dont really want to go down that road for reliability's sake. A turbo 4 FS might be a good option though? The V6 will do 2 hours at our home track (Mosport - big speed and power track with lots of full throttle time) if it has a surge tank. And if you wanted to add a cuel cell with an extra 2 gallons, then you would be good to go. Depending on how the car runs this year, I would like to start venturing out and hitting some of the bucket list tracks. Daytona and Sebring are high on the list, as is the 24 hour at VIR. I don't want to do any of those unless I know the car and engine is going to be up for the task though. Don't need to blow up an old tired motor after such a long haul to get there.
  4. Aright! A bit of engine porn for a Friday. I'm excited to see what you guys do with this car. Hopefully we get to race against you guys at some point, maybe somewhere between Florida and Ontario. It will be interesting to see what kind of power you can make with that engine, it sure would be nice to have less weight than we have with the V6.
  5. After a long winter, the trees are starting to bud and the race car is now basically buttoned up and ready to go! We have done quite a bit of work in the last month now that it has been warmer. We swapped out the transmission to a spare used one we had as our 4th gear synchro was starting to get crunchy. The next major thing was to fix both the fuel filling and add a surge tank. To fix the fuel filling, we needed to gain more venting of air for the tank as fuel is dumped into it. We had originally thought that the stock '98 vent that was connected to the carbon canisters and such would be a direct vent. But it turns out that it creates a weird air pocket that I think a) doesn't allow the tank to get totally full, b) creates a pocket of positive pressure (compressed air) and c) never allows the fuel itself to flow out of the vent/overflow line to our designed catch can. With the tank out over the winter we were able to drill a direct hole into the tank and vent through the existing fitting. We then tee'd that line off to create a larger vent that can be manually opened and closed during fueling. Seems to have worked as we tested by pouring a full jug (21 litres) in approx 20s with little to no overflowing from the filler tube. We also added a surge tank to solve fuel starvation and try to get a full 2 hour stint out of a tank. We debated as to where to put it but decided that the engine bay was best to keep a good firewall between it and the driver. We think it will eventually go into the rear wheel well but want to take some more time to make a cover for it and such. Custom made aluminum cube (5" approx) with mounting tabs on the bottom. Fuel in from oem tank, return to oem tank and return from fuel rail are all into fittings into the top of the tank. Fuel out to engine is via fitting in the bottom of the tank and runs through a Bosch external pump and in line filter before going to engine. In the end, the brass fittings into aluminum bungs weren't as solid as we would have liked, so they were supplemented with some JB Weld. We also installed a float valve that turns on a light when it drops about an inch. The light on the dash says pit now as there is about 1-2 laps of fuel left in the surge when it goes on Next we turned to giving the car a once over and found a few things. For starters, the front coilovers had the boots all torn up from getting caught between strut and springs. The bump stops were also pretty beat up. Ordered some new bumps and boots. After disassembly I found the bump stops still had some life left in them, but we were definitely hitting them at times. I THINK I was bottoming out as I entered T5 at Mosport. There is a big uphill compression in the brake zone and can clearly hear some squeaks/groans/rubbing in the videos. We will keep an eye on it for future, but maybe stiffer springs is in order. And, FINALLY we wore out a set of brake pads! They had approx 50 race hours on them, not including test days. We got a bit lucky as the inside front pads had nearly zero pad material left. Interestingly enough, the front inside pads are more worn than the outsides. Not sure why... we replaced the calipers with new (consider these as a yearly consumable) and installed a new (only bedded in) ST-43 pads. Rears still have plenty of meat on them. We also replaced the front wheels studs with some longer studs they are pretty nice at 70 mm in length and with easy thread ends that will make tire changes a breeze! So with all of that being said, the car will go out for a shakedown next weekend then we will do final prep for our first race of the year. Pretty excited for this one. For starters it's as Watkins Glen and we have never been there. And secondly, we have a guest driver coming with us. Trying to get his 626 itch scratched, we have @RacerX coming to drive with us. Is going to be awesome meet another one of the 626.net members!
  6. How do the battery terminals/wires look? Much corrosion (green-ish powder looking)? I recently had an issue on Mazda 6 where the ground wire (the black one) was too corroded inside the rubber sheath. It was like the battery was dead. Didn't have enough juice to crank. But the battery still read 12V when tested. Once the wire and terminal connector was replaced it fires with no issue.
  7. electrical

    Where did you find chewed wires? That is what I was going to suggest with the funny issues you have had. A bunch of different wires shorting on eachother. Can you pull back the wiring loom and re-splice (or at least individually tape) the wires to get them all into proper sheathing?
  8. Have you checked out DJdevon3's youtube channel? He does a full series of the auto to manual conversion on a 93-97. I don't recall seeing much in there about changing out the ECU, but I cant remember.
  9. 2003-2008 Mazda 6 front brakes, 98-02 626 rear brakes is a very common upgrade. Flywheel from the 1.8 V6 of the MX3 fits and is significantly lighter. 98 rear sway bar will go on. Supposedly a rear sway bar from a Ford Contour will go on too, but the end links aren't quite right so I never got it to fit (just bought an AWR bar instead). I never got around to trying it, but from what I could tell from spec sheets, the shocks/springs from a Chevy HHR will fit. But that is a BIG maybe because I never verified or even went too deep into the research. Put Yonaka coilovers instead as the were only $550 or so. They are great.
  10. Dealer is probably the best place. I seem to remember them being in the $10 range when I bought mine. Or if you want to go all out look up a short shifter from TWM. We use one, it has a ball bearing and aluminum spacers/bushings and shifts really nice!
  11. This is too bad. I have enjoyed following your build and thread. Good luck with the sale.
  12. I just saw these on blipshift.com https://www.blipshift.com/products/cargyle-socks-1 Perfect Christmas present for the Mazda fan!
  13. That's awesome. Nice work!
  14. I second that motion. This car is awesome. I love older cars that don't go crazy on mods (staying at least kind of stock) but put a few little touches on that make it stand out. You should be really proud of the work you have done to get it to this point.
  15. Yeah, that's a good point. easy to test, will give that a shot next year. My team wont be surprised when I suggest another bright idea to shed weight at least!