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Qbar43

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About Qbar43

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    Junior Member

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  • Car
    1985, 626-GC , 2.0l FE, Auto

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  1. Hi all, Just wondering if anyone has had any success/been happy with any of the Led H4, Philips/Narva or otherwise. Just plug in, no wiring mods? Any recommendations appreciated, including Front parkers? Cheers
  2. Thanks again, I did read it somewhere in one of the manuals not to remove, but appreciate you confirming. I notice you have a Turbo Coupe, this is a 2.0 litre correct. I love the coupe, there's one on Ebay here in Melbourne not registered and no road worthy. Many K's but looks very good? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mazda-626-turbo-1987-GC-Super-Deluxe-Coupe-2dr-Man-5sp-2-0T-/252560309182?&_trksid=p2056016.m2516.l5255 Is yours a manual? what's your impression of this model? Cheers, Anthony
  3. Thanks mate you're a legend. The wrecker tells me this joint shaft bearing/carrier rarely go wrong. It's just that with the CV joints out better to deal with now. Would you suggest removal for a proper inspection or while attached to trans and engine? Or it may not be wise turning or pulling on this shaft with axles removed What do you think? Cheers, Anthony
  4. Hi all, Would anyone out there know the part number for the above Carrier Bearing? Also where to source one? For right hand Cv Joint shaft. Cannot seem to find much information. Cheers
  5. Thanks for reply, well explained and good point on tie rods and power steering fluid. Kind Regards
  6. My front end is now in need of some urgent attention. Rotors are thin, wheel bearings one very bad, cv joints suspect, ball joints tie rods and the rest. I have Albinus' wheel bearing replacement guide saved. I have most of the parts but not cv shafts as yet. If I was to renew all possible ,including control arm bushings also sway bar bushings/rubbers etc tie rods-probably not inners? what is a practical logical order to follow rather than just going like a bull at a gate. I realise a machine shop may be required for wheel bearings separation and maybe ball joints, unless I buy complete control arms with bushings and ball joints? I will need to get the Pedders struts and king springs assessed although seem ok, but will remove from vehicle as a unit and take to suspension place. Hope someone can offer some assistance, on an all care no responsibility basis of course. Kind Regards,
  7. Qbar43

    Ignition Coil GC

    Hi all, Coil sorted from information from Bosch, for anyone interested if it is a points style ignition , can use either SU12R or GT40R coil for use with ballast resistor, if electronic ignition , coil , BIC290. Cheers
  8. Hi all, Which coil to get? I have a 1985 FE Motor 2.0 L Mazda 626 GC10E1-703548, the last of the carby models. Has igniter in Dizzy not points, not sure if it was meant to run on leaded-run it on unleaded no probs. Have a remanufactured dizzy to put in and old coil on the way out. Both the old coil and a spare from the wrecker have printed on coil "use only with transistor". Aren't these for distributors with points? These might both be incorrect for this model. Wrecker one had one attached by looks so took it off seems to run ok. Still not sure which coil to purchase. Any clues? Regards, Anthony
  9. Dear El Scorcho, Many thanks for the reply and advice. Belts are done all good. Will do the checks Chief and yourself have suggested. I've yet to meet a mechanic, maybe a couple few and far between, that I would rate as a Technician. Most have been on par with Moe Larry and Shemp-"Pardon my Backfire" was the episode I think, Cheers.
  10. Hi All, While trying to solve a pinging problem, I started with making some new marks on Timing cover and balancer, thought may as well change the belts. On removing the right wheel I noticed grease splattered around strut on top of control arm and think the tie rod is shot-See photos. Had a feeling the front end had something wrong with it. Is Rockauto the place to purchase? Is this a fairly simple task? Can an alternative be used if you don't have a pickle fork to separate the tie rod end from the knuckle? Lower ball joints seem ok, but is it best to jack up the control arm to take the pressure off ball joints so you can check for play? Also are there any tricks to fitting the new drive belt alt, power steer, a/c. I had to loosen everything off to the max to get the old one off. Thanks in advance, Regards, Anthony
  11. Cheers for this, once head cleaned up will give you the update,
  12. Thanks for the reply, knowing what i'm like with silicone anyway I'll think I'll risk without rtf and see how it goes. Bloody stuff never goes where I want it, it's either not enough or way too much. If it's a disaster at least I'll be able to get the manifold off. The carbon deposits on the mating surface of the head itself are a problem, not even the CRC gasket remover will budge them, any suggestions on that front wouldn't go astray. Many thanks again, Anthony
  13. Thanks for your reply and patience yet again. Yes speed and myself are two things that don't go together. Demolition should have been my game as me mother always said I was a Wrecker! Yes engine has always been run with sufficient corrosion inhibitor. Cheers, Anthony
  14. Thanks for the reply, Would you say this is worthy of RTV. Having not done one before is pitting severe on these photos?
  15. Hi all, In a long drawn out repair, finally the intake manifold is ready to fit back on. Took ages to remove old gasket cement, extremely stubborn and tough. Head reco place cleaned the mating surface. My query is, manual says no gasket rtv, but many people say use a smear. Is it required on all mating surfaces or just between gasket and manifold or gasket and head? is a continuous 1/4 bead around where gasket is situated, the best method? What is a recommended sealant for this task. Hope someone can help, Cheers
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