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tsmys

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tsmys last won the day on June 16 2015

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About tsmys

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  • Birthday 12/04/1959

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  1. Have a '94 626 I need gone out of my garage. Bought it off a kid who said he was half way through a timing belt change but he was relocating to a different city and didn't have room at his new place for the car. He seemed trustworthy so I took him at his word that the car's only problem was the timing belt. It already had the new belt installed but I brought it home w/ several parts in the trunk. This car was going to be wife's car so she wouldn't have to ride the bus to work. I also bought a '93 MX6 that the owner claimed had a blown head gasket. It was still wet with antifreeze when I brought it home. Looking back, it could've just been the waterpump but i had no desire to fix this one.This was used as my "reference" car in case I got stumped putting the 626 back together. Well, I got the 626 put back together and it wouldn't run. Momma quit her job. Lost the motivation to take the 626 apart again. The 626 has had the IM professionally cleaned, the throttle body is clean as a new one. Injectors have been bench tested. New plugs & wires. Several other new parts. Both going to the junk man. Wanted to offer here first since you all were so helpfull. If you're close enough to Lafayette, IN to come get either or all or parts let me know. Going for junk man prices. Thanks, Tag
  2. OK, guys, I really need some advice. A month ago I thought I was about done putting this car back together. The top is reassembled, the throttle body side is done. All I have left is the timing belt covers and the drive belts. Pretty simple stuff, right? Apparently, not for me. Try as I might I can't get the left TB cover properly positioned. I can get close but I'm still about an inch from being down far enough when the notch cut in the cover for the engine mount bottoms out against the engine mount. Is there something I'm missing or some trick I haven't figured out? It also seems like the bottom of the cover is not lining up like it should. Should the cover seat behind both the pulleys on the crankshaft? Thanks for any ideas you can share.
  3. As you may have noticed, I was wrong. I have 11 of those bolts. I agree with everybody else. A junk yard would be a good way to make sure you are getting the right bolts. If you have a yard close by and if they have the car you need with the engine you need and the engine is intact.
  4. Hey SeacoasTTer, Didn't get as far as I'd have liked this weekend but I was able to check out the TB cover bolts for you. I'm fairly certain at least the outside bolts are full thread, grade 9, 6x25x1.0 flange bolts. If you look at the picture I directed you to, there are nine of them. If you look closely the bolts in the picture have a nipple, for lack of a proper term, on the end with no threads. I suspect those are there to facilitate being installed at the factory by a machine. As long as you don't have a robot put them in, you should be OK with a regular flange bolt... It's not a certainty that I got all the bolts needed with the car but this should help get you started. Most of the bolts I have used so far are standard thread and grade. Most are flange bolts, but not all. I will try to label the bolts in the picture when I get time. Hope this helps.
  5. I had a similar situation to yours. I brought home a '94 626 that was in the middle of a timing belt change. They might have changed those bolts by '00, but I doubt it. If you look at the thread titled "'94 626 Puzzle" you'll find a picture of all the bolts that came with the car along with some other info you might find useful. I've since id'ed most of the bolts in that pic but I haven't got to the timing belt covers yet. I went ahead and did a lot of additional work while the engine was in pieces. Getting to the end now. Hope to have the IM installed this weekend and then tackle the timing belt covers.It looks like the top TB cover bolts are 6 mm but I will have to chase the hole threads to confirm. (Painted the valve covers.) I don't know how much of a hurry you're in but I can try to post bolt size, thread and hardness, this weekend.
  6. Hold on Ty. I don't think dj meant for you to grease the entire outside edge of the butterfly valve. You just want to lubricate the area where the valve rotates on the pin going through the middle of the valve. You want the edge of the valve very clean so that it will not stick against the sides of the throttle body. That's why he recommends using something small to apply the lubricant. Grease all the way around the edge will cause the valve to gum up and stick and you'll be tearing it apart again to clean the grease off. If you look closely you can see a lip in the sides of the throttle body, that's what forms the seal. The staining shouldn't be an issue but don't grease the whole circumference of the valve. You might want to wait on confirmation from dj, but I'm pretty sure that's what he meant....
  7. Thanks for the info dj. I just spent way too much time trying to unhook the EGR pipe from the EGR valve. Does anyone know what size wrench it takes? Trying to get a wrench on it by feel while laying across the engine is not working out too well, lol! Starting to think I need a flare nut wrench or a stubby wrench or a stubby flare nut wrench, or a mechanic! Will head out tonight to get some wrenches, if anyone can save me the expense of purchasing a whole set it would be much appreciated.
  8. No worries about the Nov post, dj. I know everything I could possibly think to ask has already been covered somewhere in the forums but with 1800 pages of threads sometimes it can get overwhelming even using the search function. The throttle body was every bit as dirty as the IM, that's all been cleaned and looks pretty good now. EGR system has been cleaned down to the EGR itself. Will be tackling that next. PCV valve seems OK but Haynes says to change it every 30,000 miles and it's probably overdue. The guy I bought the car from claimed to have checked the compression and it was good. Will do some research on the leak down test and try to figure out if I'm smart enough to pull that off, lol. Man, I dream about $10 parts and being able to run up to the junkyard and pick stuff up, but, alas, haven't found anyplace with 626 inventory anywhere close to me.
  9. I agree with you dj, physics is a heartless bitch! But as long as the OD of the tube you connect to the shop vac isn't so large that it completely blocks the pipe you are cleaning, enough air will get in around the shop vac tube for it to be effective. Some larger chunks of debris won't fit through a small tube but if they're not too heavy you can usually use the vacuum force in the tube to hold the debris to the end of the tube and fish it out that way. Believe me, I've stuck that tube down many a hole and it works fine...
  10. HI Guys! Obviously haven't had much to report in a while. Holidays knocked the stuffing out of both my budget and momentum, lol. I have been lurking around and learning a lot. Seems like the more I learn the bigger this project becomes. Still haven't figured out how I ever convinced myself this would be an easy way to add a car to the fleet. And yes, I did miss something, (see earlier post, "Fuel injectors- Am I missing something here? I saw on another thread a link to ebay in which o-rings for the injectors were over $13 each. Rock Auto has a whole set for about $6."). The $6 o-rings at Rock Auto were not the same ones. I did come across something that someone might find interesting. As I was checking the vacuum lines hooked to the the IM I found one that still had the nipple it was attached to still inside it. Of course it couldn't have been broken off a tee or easily replaced part. It was broken off the EGR vent Solenoid. ( $76 on Ebay, no junkyards with 626's within reasonable driving distance.) After some internet research I think I may have got a fix that will work, at least temporarily until I can see if this old car is ever going to run again. Here's some pictures of the fix: Yep, that's the broken nipple in the red circle. broke off almost flush. No chance of just gluing it back on securely. also pictured are the tools and supplies used for the fix. Here's a close up: The white fittings are what I used for the fix. One is almost completely modified to fit over the broken nipple. Good thing I had 2, I broke the first one trying to cut the ears off. I also used some sandpaper to rough up the surface of the solenoid, (a good idea before any glue-up), and cleaned everything with rubbing alcohol. Try to sand horizontally so the scratch marks don't leave an easy path for a leak. A word of warning; when cutting small hard plastic parts with a razor knife, use a new blade so you can cut with as little force as possible. Be very,very, careful. If you don't have cut gloves, at least wrap your holding fingers in duct tape... This is what the dry fit looked like, My new found wisdom led me to just leave the ears on this fitting. The wire sticking out of the fitting is an 1/8th" tube brush. It helped make sure both parts were aligned properly. I left it in until the epoxy started to set up to make sure no epoxy could seep into the hole and seal it up.
  11. Hey Ty, Listen to these guys, they are giving you good advice. To remove stuck hoses and vacuum lines, djdevon is right, first rotate the hose without trying to pull it off. Once it breaks free it should come off fairly easily. A set of hose grip pliers like the ones in this picture are great for that. They also work great for removing stubborn spark plug wires. As for cleaning out your EGR port, just pushing the carbon further down the hole isn't going to do you much good. If you can't get the bottom end opened up to blow it all the way through, use your shop vac. The steel tube pictured is a tool I made to attach to the shop vac. I can use it to scrape and remove debris at the same time. If I need to go through bends, I attach the plastic hose on the end of it. I was lucky enough to have the tools and scrap parts where I work to fashion mine, but a stiff piece of cardboard and a plastic pipe would work also. Good luck, hope this helps...
  12. Hey Guys! It's been a long couple of weeks, I got sick, broke the air compressor, work's been a bear. Question mark key on the keyboard is sticking, WTH??????????????????? Yada, yada, yada... Progress has been painfully slow to non-existent. I did manage to get to the dealer to order some hoses and such, OUCH! Throttle Body air hose $16.48, dip stick o ring $4.74, I could go on but it would probably make me cry! I ended up stripping everything off the IM and taking it to the local machine shop for cleaning. Took the valve covers as well, just for fun. Those guys were really proud of their work but I'm pretty happy with the results. As the before and after pics show, the IM was a real mess. The EGR port was completely covered over. If I hadn't known to look for it I wouldn't have known it was there. Stripping all the parts off the IM has raised a few questions I hope you guys can help me with: Vacuum tubes- It seems there are at least 2 sizes, (marked CG 4A and CG 3L), they look like, maybe, 1/8" and 3/16" ID and I've managed to break some of both. I'm not real familiar with metric sizes, does anyone know off the top of their head what size they really are and is the size really that critical, as long as they are snug on the fittings? Some tubes seem pliable and some seem stiff and brittle. Are the brittle ones petrified or are they supposed to be harder? Fuel injectors- Am I missing something here? I saw on another thread a link to ebay in which o-rings for the injectors were over $13 each. Rock Auto has a whole set for about $6. They also have "Fuel Injector Repair Kits" for $32.79. Would it be worth it to "tune up" the injectors while they are off the IM? Please bear in mind that I have no idea how the car ran when I bought it. Judging from the carbon build up in the air intake system, I can't imagine it was running great... Thanks again, Guys, for all your help. There's no way I'd get through this without you!
  13. Mazda97, dude, shhhh. My GF may read this some day. Always recommend more and better tools. C'mon man! I've been telling her what rock stars you guys are and that I have to do everything you tell me. I think I blamed the die grinder on djdevon. Haha! The poor girl still thinks this is going to be her car. I've convinced her that everything I'm doing is for her safety and comfort... Seriously, the carbon is so thick inside the IM that I'm concerned that chunks of it will be breaking off and mucking up the works. I'm hoping if I can pull off the reassembly correctly, these parts won't have to come back off for a long time. My first thought was to put a wire brush on a die grinder and go to town. Now I'm thinking about rigging a section of steel tubing to the shop vac so I can scrape and remove debris at the same time.
  14. Thanks for the info, Snailman. It will certainly make re-assembly less frustrating. djdevon, I know more about breaking bolts than I'd like! Learned most of it the hard way. My bolt assortment included 3 small screws that were broken off. I suspect they are to hold some of the brackets on. I'm not too worried about most of them but if one is for the throttle cable, that might be a problem. I did manage to get the air cleaner insert I pulled out re-threaded. That JB Weld is good stuff. I never would have believed that it would have held up to the stress of running a tap through the insert but it came through like a champ. You are right about the bolt numbers. They are the hardness of the bolt. Metric bolts have #'s on them, the higher the # the harder the bolt. SAE bolts have lines on the head. ( no lines = grade 2, 3 lines = grade 5, 6 lines = grade 8 with grade 8 being the hardest.) Of course stainless is totally different and you could fill a text book with info about military specs but who cares... The only time you need to be concerned with them is if you are replacing a bolt. Had the GF's grand babies this weekend, which put a serious hurt on my productivity. I did manage to get the TB cleaned. everything seems to be moving smoothly. How do you guys clean the throttle linkage? I sprayed it with TB cleaner and brushed it the best I could. Is that good enough? No way I'm gonna attempt to take that apart, lol! The IM is just as bad as the TB was. I ordered an extended reach die grinder but I'm having trouble finding a wire brush small enough to fit in the manifold unless it's a tiny one. Might end up just making something.
  15. Man, if I only knew then what I know now... That gold colored thing in the top of the picture is the insert that pulled out of the housing when I removed the cross threaded bolt to remove the BAF from the air filter housing. JB Welded it back in. Need to chase the threads but was afraid I couldn't tighten it in a vise without smashing it. I'll try chasing the threads after it cures good. JB Weld probably won't hold so I'll pick up a new insert and bolt tomorrow.
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