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banno2000

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About banno2000

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  • Car
    Manual sedan, 1992 GE 4th gen (probably)
  1. banno2000

    Road Rules

    Hey all, I recently spent a weekend going through my state's regulations on road rules. You know, for fun. I collected a list of the weird restrictions that the authorities place (though probably rarely enforce) on drivers. Hopefully makes for an entertaining read no matter where in the world you live :-) http://theholyfish.com/road-rules/
  2. banno2000

    Rear wheel smoking hot but no other symptoms

    Thanks Leev! So I found a mechanic that was open and after a quick look he identified that the handbrake was intermittently not releasing properly on the problem wheel. This made sense as on the drive to the mechanic the brake alert light on the dash was lit up, and it also seemed the handbrake had a bit more slack in it when in the down/off position (both these two things hadn't been present any other time). Unfortunately the heat has caused a few of the brake parts to degrade, so the full repair job (plus mechanic's labour) would be about US$500. As a workaround for the time being, it seems I'm probably able to get under the car and disengage the handbrake with a bit of a tap with a spanner. But that's not much fun to do in a car park in the rain (or wherever), so I'll just try to park in gear without using the handbrake. I've taped the handbrake lever down so I don't accidentally use it - turns out it's second-nature to reach for it after years of driving.
  3. Hi all, My rear driver-side wheel has begun to heat up while driving. I don't know much about cars so excuse the poor terminology, but the hottest part I'm game to touch is the metal part of the wheel that is directly beneath the hub cap. The hub cap and the part of the tyre closest to the metal also become hot, though less so. When I say hot, it steams when water is splashed onto it. There is also a burning smell, plus visible smoke on one occasion (I noticed these when pulling up at the lights, which is what tipped me off to the problem). My recent trips have been about 10-15 mins at no more than 60mph, and this is enough to make the heat and smell noticeable. The temperature is back to normal after being parked for an hour. There are no other symptoms. No change in noise, it brakes in exactly the same way, and I don't think it is pulling to one side while driving either. Further, the heating doesn't happen after every trip. An hour after I first noticed it, I drove the same route home and all the wheels were the same (normal) temperature at the end. So I put it down to maybe having had the handbrake slightly on, or that a leaf or something had fallen into the wheel. Four more drives of the same or greater distance over the following week with no problem. But now the problem has returned for the last four drives. Any thoughts? I would take it to a mechanic, except they're all closed over the weekend and I need to drive 300 miles back home first thing Monday morning. So my main concern now is whether it's safe to drive home. Thanks in advance!
  4. Ahh, okay. So from here, would this be a job for a mechanic, or perhaps an air conditioning expert?
  5. Thanks for the tip snailman. Is the white thing in the attached photo the plastic cam you refer to? I've applied some WD-40 to it, and also sprayed some inside the cavity at the bottom of the photo. In that cavity there is something that moves when different vents are selected on the fan/AC panel - I'm guessing that's the blend door? On my most recent test the AC wasn't cooling adequately but I confirmed that when the different buttons were pressed, or at least most of them, the plastic cam and the blend door moved. Does this suggest the fault is probably something else? Or perhaps I've misunderstood your advice?
  6. Hi all! The AC / cabin temperature in my 92 4th gen GE has chosen the worst time of year to play up: middle of summer (I'm in Australia) with lots of long Christmas holiday drives. From working perfectly a fortnight ago, here is what it does now: When the AC is on, some vents blow cold air while others blow hot. The bottom vents and those at the side of the dash are generally always hot. The centre dash vents (one or both) can be either cold or hot. I think this is also true for when the AC is off but it may be less extreme. Airflow changes correctly based on what setting is chosen for fan speed, recirculation/direct, and vents used. But this does not have much or any affect on temperature. The first time this manifested, after an hour it began working perfectly again. It stayed this way for the rest of that drive and the next one a few days later, but then the fault resurfaced. At least some of the time it does not respond at all to the temperature slider i.e. same temp whether set to full cold or full hot, A/C or no A/C. On the last drive, a lot of air was coming through the centre vents even when the fan speed was set to off. This stopped when it was set to recirculate. Outside temperature does not seem to have much affect. Previous history: For last 10 years the temperature slider on control panel has not worked properly - it's maximum cooling until the slider reaches a point and then its maximum heat (for both fan and AC). The car's coolant system is a bit unhealthy and was causing engine overheating but this was fixed with a new radiator cap. Attempted fixes so far: Trying every possible combination of buttons on the control panel, multiple times. The AC condensor isn't clogged, both fans behind the radiator run when they should, and all the lights and buttons on the control panel in the cabin function properly (other than as described above). There's plenty of coolant and the engine temp is where it normally is. As far as I can tell, there's no bubble-type thing that would show the gas level and I also can't see the compressor/compressor clutch. Any thoughts on some of easy fixes I (a very non-technical person) might try before the next long drive? Or failing that, whether its a mechanic or an air-conditioning technician I should see? Thanks! Mat.
  7. banno2000

    Revs 'bouncing' While Coasting In Neutral

    Well, we have a result! I have done a couple of test drives now with the IAC disconnected and the revs no longer 'bounce' when coasting in neutral. And the revs are generally much lower now too - can't remember off the top of my head but somewhere between 600 and 900. Is it harmful to continue driving with the IAC disconnected? Naturally I'd like to avoid the expense and hassle of replacing the IAC if possible.
  8. banno2000

    Revs 'bouncing' While Coasting In Neutral

    snailman: Thanks for the input. I've checked both as you suggested and they're fine. The radiator cap should also be good too as it was replaced recently. An overheating problem that suddenly manifested was traced back to the old cap no longer sealing properly, and since then no overheating. The mechanic did mention that the cooling system was very rusty, and about a month ago the coolant bottle was unexpectedly empty. It had been topped up a few months previously and had never even gone close to running dry over much longer periods. Since topping up again the levels have been stable for the last month. Suspect this isn't relevant but just in case: in the cabin, for years the heating/cooling system has only done full cool or full hot, irrespective of where the slider is on the spectrum. djdevon3: Haven't tried disconnecting the IAC yet because, embarrassingly, I can't find either it or the throttle body. My net searches bring up either diagrams/photos for other years (and not sure if they're transferable) or diagrams/photos of how to dissemble and clean the IAC once it is found. Found a workshop manual but it seemed to be missing the chapter for the engine bay. The photo below looks pretty similar to what I see under the bonnet, and I suspected the IAC was around where it is indicated in this photo. The photo is for a GF 2.0i 16V - would it be in the same place in my GE? Sorry, don't want to make you do the work for me, just don't feel confident tinkering based on what I've dug up so far given my mechanical ignorance.
  9. banno2000

    Revs 'bouncing' While Coasting In Neutral

    Thanks! Yes I'm in Australia so that would probably explain how we got it in '92. If your moderator powers let you move this to the 1993-2002 forum then please do :-) Years and years ago a friend played around with the IAC because the revs would sometimes drop too low and stall the car, which suggests that it may have been dodgy for a while. Or at least I think that was what he was adjusting to alter the base rpms when idling. In any case, I'll try your suggestion with the IAC and report back. Thanks again!
  10. Hi! I've had this problem with my 626 for last few years (at least). Mentioned it to the mechanic each time i get it serviced (various places, none Mazda dealers) but no real improvement. When put in neutral while coasting (say up to a red light) the revs 'bounce' from about 900 rpm to 1500 rpm with a constant period of about 1-2 seconds. It will do it until the moment that I come to a complete halt, after which it will sit at about 1500 rpm until I drive again. Seems to only happen in cold or cool weather, and only starts once the engine temp gets to about its normal level (which is middle between C and H). Makes me seem like I'm revving the engine for a race :-) Other than this the car drives pretty much perfectly, with the exception of sometimes feeling like it is 'pulling back' or intermittently shuddering when in 1st gear at low speeds/revs. which I suspect is related to the above issue. Couldn't find any existing topics that seemed a good fit to this problem, but admit I could have been using the wrong search terms as I'm a complete noob with car stuff. To the point that I'm not even 100% sure what type it is (so apologies if I've posted in the wrong area). It's manual sedan, from either 1992 or 1991, 2.0 L (I think) and looks like this: http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:1992-1994_Mazda_626_(GE)_sedan_(2011-10-25)_02.jpg . Thoughts? Is this a known 626 issue? P.S. Know i'm preaching to the choir here but how good are 626s! Mine has been in the family since bought new, only car I've ever had, and only car I ever want!
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