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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

zdanman

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Everything posted by zdanman

  1. @admins PLEASE DELETE THIS THREAD. New updated thread here...
  2. @admins PLEASE DELETE THIS TREAD. New updated thread here...
  3. Loping idle. 2002 Mazda 626 V6 2.5L. Video below. Making a new thread because a lot of updates since last time. New fuel pressure regulator, new EGR valve, new MAF sensor, new throttle position sensor, new PCV valve? Still same problem. Video below. Any other ideas folks? Please advise. Should I junk it?
  4. 2002 Mazda 626 V6 2.5L Car ran great no issues. Parked it. Two days later went to drive it and car cranks but will not start. Fuel pump is running. Spark plugs have spark. Fuel pressure regulator brand new, Mass Air Flow sensor brand new, throttle position sensor new, EGR valve new. PCV valve new. What gives? Please assist? I'll post a video of me cranking it if it will help?
  5. What was the result JoMo? I'm having exact same problem. 2002 Mazda 626 2.5L V6 Ran great, then after letting it sit for a week, tried to start mine and now it cranks but wont start. Fuel pump relay is fine. Fuel pump is pumping fuel. Fuel pressure regulator is brand new. Spark plugs are firing off. What gives?
  6. Thanks for the suggestion... is this a hail mary .... or ?
  7. Not really trivial. Took it to a mechanic... $200 later they said it was EGR valve. I dropped another $200 and replaced the EGR valve. No fix. Several times during use, had to crank the car for 2 whole minutes to get it to start. Pretty pathetic. Went from 30 mpg to 19 mpg. And on top of that no one on this forum after 9 days seems to have any idea what the issue could possibly be. Yeah id say its junk worthy.
  8. 2002 Mazda 626 2.5L V6 Was throwing the P0400 CEL code (EGR code). Also had a lopping idle and ran rough and started rough. Replaced EGR valve with a brand new one. It fixed nothing. Exact same symptoms and issues. Any thoughts before junking this thing? @admins PLEASE DELETE THIS THREAD. New updated thread here...
  9. Thanks for reply. I'll replace it. If that doesnt fix anything and assuming the EGR is still good... what else do you think it could be? Also, by rough idle I mean a loping sound. It is a different sound then, say, if I remove the #2 spark plug wire while running. Then it is an additional clicking noise sound (of the cyclinder #2 not firing) while running. So I don't think it is missing at idle.
  10. 2002 Mazda 626 (2.5L) has rough idle and RPM dips up and down going down drive way in first gear. Also, sometimes takes A LOT of cranks to start. This issue has been degrading over time. First it was just rough loping idle. Now I have problems starting. I crank it for a while and then fires up and then dies. After a minute or so of cranking up and dying... it finally cranks up and I am able to hold at 2000 RPM until the idle is somewhat stable again. I have also noticed a lack of power recently. Plugs and wires are new. Check Engine light is on and has been for a while. the 4 Check Engine codes are P0400 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow P0300 - Multiple Misfire Detected P0302 - Cylinder 2 Misfire P0305 - Misfire Detected I removed and tested the EGR valve (very difficult btw), and according to procedure in Chilton Shop Manual... the EGR valve is good. Any ideas?
  11. .... annnnnnnnddd .... nobody knows.
  12. Now my mazda is doing the same thing as what my dodge is doing.... pressure is going back and forth all over the place. I have both vehicles vacuumed and charged to the factory amount. I didnt loose any vacuum overnight so I assume there is no leak issues. I also tried adding an extra 100 grams later on and it still does the same thing. I charged it the same way this guy does it....
  13. OMG YOU ARE AWESOME!!!!!!! It worked!!! Unplugged it, blew in it, and plugged it back up and the code is gone. I'm already $61 in the hole for a code read and failed state inspection and I'm glad I don't have to waist anymore money on this thing.
  14. The aftermarket downpipe is straight. The factory downpipe has a large bend/hump in order to get by a cross-beam. Therefore the aftermarket downpipe must be bent quite a bit in order for it to even come close to working.
  15. The headers themselves line up. However the downpipes dont line up nor are the same length. This is what I bought... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Exhaust-Header-MX6-Probe-KLZE-93-94-95-96-97-2-5L-V6-/361182223744?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5418235d80&vxp=mtr Returning. So, basically I can't find an exhaust for this vehicle. Sux.
  16. Will KLDE / KLZE (93-97) exhaust headers bolt up to the KLG4 (1998-2002)??
  17. Mine just sprung a leak again aswell. The new rubber cap lasted 5 months. Second worst design flaw I've ever seen in a vehicle. So when I pull it into the shop this weekend to fix it, its going to be permanent - I'm going to pull my Miller out and weld it shut.
  18. Thanks for your replies. The outside/inside air blend door is 98% shut (I can only push it 1/16" farther) so I don't believe thats the issue. As said before I cant push the heat/cold blend door much further either. Now I'm thinking the new orifice tube I got from Autozone is junk. In the morning, (outside temp is 70 F) the gauges and accumulator look like this... Which is great for the inside because the air passed the evap is 34 F (air out the vents is 40F) !!! However obviously the lines have 25 F freon flowing through them (according to the gauges) and as you can see are freezing. I thought the orifice tube was supposed to stop that from happening and/or the accumulator switch is supposed to shut the compressor off if the pressure gets below 32 psi (aka 32 F - freezing). Either way when, in the afternoon when its 88 F outside the evap air temp (as stated before) goes up to 40 F - vent temp goes up to 50 F - and low side pressure goes up to 35 psi (35 F freon). Something obviously is not doing its job - either letting to much freon go through in the morning and not enough in the afternoon... what component regulates this?
  19. interesting... a ? though. what do you mean by leaking internally? also when I filled it with freon I did it by weight (1 lb 11 oz) so... technically it should be perfect... do you think it could still be way off for some reason?
  20. lol. i definitely would if that were the case when its hot outside. but like i said, it shoots out 39 F air when its cold in the morning but who cares about a/c in the morning. when im driving around under the hot sun outside its shooting out 54 F air - in which case its better to just roll down the windows and say !%$& the a/c. so now that ive put money into my a/c ... id like to have it working, which is one of the reasons why im wiritng here.
  21. Turned it on this morning (so it would be cold outside) and as the car was cold it was 34 F right out of the evaporator and 39 F out of the vent so with my limited knowledge I can only assume this is a normal difference between vent temp and evaporator temp. As the car warmed up and the heater core hoses got HOT the vent temperature still stayed at 39 F. So by my inexperience i would say the vent/evap temp is only effected by outside temp meaning the cooling system itself is inefficient. Everything is new except the evaporator and compressor so...??
  22. Took the entire lower dash off (pain btw) so I can get an optimal look at everything. Popped some bolts off the evaporator cover to get a look at it. It looked clean to me. On Max A/C (recirculate), blower on 3/4, the air coming past the evaporator was 40 F and the coldest air coming out the vents was 46 F. I am assuming this is the normal amount of 6 F difference??? However it seems to me that the air coming past evaporator should be alot lower (like 34 F) because freon can cool to 33 F before freezing stuff, right???? I played with the heat door levers (holding it closed a little tighter) but didnt notice any difference really. I played with the recirc lever which closes the inside-outside air door and didnt notice anything. So from my limited knowledge I would make the assumption that the air at the evaporator should be -6 F lower - meaning I should replace the evaporator. Anyone agree???
  23. Thank you guys for your replies. Very informative for me and whoever reads this thread. The condensor is brand new so no issues there. The compressor may be the culprit except I have had 39-40 F temperatures in the past ... its just that a leak made it only last a day or two. This problem has come about after fixing the leak (condensor + accumulator). One quick note - my wife said that when she drove the car one day that she heard the blower fan making some noise and "pop!" and a little bit of black rubber junk blew out the air vents in the cab. This may very well indicate that something is broken inside the blowing system. I will update this post once I get nerve enough to take the dash apart and fix it (which according to the service manual is quite a job - taking the steering wheel off etc...).
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