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zdanman

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About zdanman

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  1. 2002 Mazda 626 2.5L V6 Was throwing the P0400 CEL code (EGR code). Also had a lopping idle and ran rough and started rough. Replaced EGR valve with a brand new one. It fixed nothing. Exact same symptoms and issues. Any thoughts before junking this thing?
  2. Thanks for reply. I'll replace it. If that doesnt fix anything and assuming the EGR is still good... what else do you think it could be? Also, by rough idle I mean a loping sound. It is a different sound then, say, if I remove the #2 spark plug wire while running. Then it is an additional clicking noise sound (of the cyclinder #2 not firing) while running. So I don't think it is missing at idle.
  3. 2002 Mazda 626 (2.5L) has rough idle and RPM dips up and down going down drive way in first gear. Also, sometimes takes A LOT of cranks to start. This issue has been degrading over time. First it was just rough loping idle. Now I have problems starting. I crank it for a while and then fires up and then dies. After a minute or so of cranking up and dying... it finally cranks up and I am able to hold at 2000 RPM until the idle is somewhat stable again. I have also noticed a lack of power recently. Plugs and wires are new. Check Engine light is on and has been for a while. the 4 Check Engine codes are P0400 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow P0300 - Multiple Misfire Detected P0302 - Cylinder 2 Misfire P0305 - Misfire Detected I removed and tested the EGR valve (very difficult btw), and according to procedure in Chilton Shop Manual... the EGR valve is good. Any ideas?
  4. .... annnnnnnnddd .... nobody knows.
  5. Now my mazda is doing the same thing as what my dodge is doing.... pressure is going back and forth all over the place. I have both vehicles vacuumed and charged to the factory amount. I didnt loose any vacuum overnight so I assume there is no leak issues. I also tried adding an extra 100 grams later on and it still does the same thing. I charged it the same way this guy does it....
  6. OMG YOU ARE AWESOME!!!!!!! It worked!!! Unplugged it, blew in it, and plugged it back up and the code is gone. I'm already $61 in the hole for a code read and failed state inspection and I'm glad I don't have to waist anymore money on this thing.
  7. The aftermarket downpipe is straight. The factory downpipe has a large bend/hump in order to get by a cross-beam. Therefore the aftermarket downpipe must be bent quite a bit in order for it to even come close to working.
  8. The headers themselves line up. However the downpipes dont line up nor are the same length. This is what I bought... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Exhaust-Header-MX6-Probe-KLZE-93-94-95-96-97-2-5L-V6-/361182223744?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5418235d80&vxp=mtr Returning. So, basically I can't find an exhaust for this vehicle. Sux.
  9. Will KLDE / KLZE (93-97) exhaust headers bolt up to the KLG4 (1998-2002)??
  10. Mine just sprung a leak again aswell. The new rubber cap lasted 5 months. Second worst design flaw I've ever seen in a vehicle. So when I pull it into the shop this weekend to fix it, its going to be permanent - I'm going to pull my Miller out and weld it shut.
  11. Thanks for your replies. The outside/inside air blend door is 98% shut (I can only push it 1/16" farther) so I don't believe thats the issue. As said before I cant push the heat/cold blend door much further either. Now I'm thinking the new orifice tube I got from Autozone is junk. In the morning, (outside temp is 70 F) the gauges and accumulator look like this... Which is great for the inside because the air passed the evap is 34 F (air out the vents is 40F) !!! However obviously the lines have 25 F freon flowing through them (according to the gauges) and as you can see are freezing. I thought the orifice tube was supposed to stop that from happening and/or the accumulator switch is supposed to shut the compressor off if the pressure gets below 32 psi (aka 32 F - freezing). Either way when, in the afternoon when its 88 F outside the evap air temp (as stated before) goes up to 40 F - vent temp goes up to 50 F - and low side pressure goes up to 35 psi (35 F freon). Something obviously is not doing its job - either letting to much freon go through in the morning and not enough in the afternoon... what component regulates this?
  12. interesting... a ? though. what do you mean by leaking internally? also when I filled it with freon I did it by weight (1 lb 11 oz) so... technically it should be perfect... do you think it could still be way off for some reason?
  13. lol. i definitely would if that were the case when its hot outside. but like i said, it shoots out 39 F air when its cold in the morning but who cares about a/c in the morning. when im driving around under the hot sun outside its shooting out 54 F air - in which case its better to just roll down the windows and say !%$& the a/c. so now that ive put money into my a/c ... id like to have it working, which is one of the reasons why im wiritng here.
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