darkbreeze

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About darkbreeze

  • Rank
    Newbie
  • Birthday 09/23/1970

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  • Car
    93, 626, 2.5l, manual

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  • Website URL
    http://www.puebloallpro.com

Profile Information

  • Location
    Pueblo, CO
  • Interests
    Football, cars, billiards, women, in that order.
  1. Also late, but ............ 626 day, ah, it never even occurred to me. Marked on the calendar for next year. Seems like every day is 626 day around my shop. Always something to fix, improve or replace. :)
  2. Anybody know if there is an updated link for this. This link appears to be dead.
  3. Nevermind, I finally found it. For future reference, in case anybody else comes across this, the part number is KL0118V57 "distributor cap gasket". Took some creative search strings to find though. Funny it never came up under distributor cap gasket for my gen.
  4. Mazda 626
  5. So, the seal or gasket, whichever you prefer, that sits between the distributor cap and the rim of the distributor housing, and helps keep water out of the internals, crumbled to dust on my 93 ES. So I pulled the distributor on my parts car, which is a 94 ES, and that one crumbled as well while trying to remove it. I can't seem to find a part number or reference to this other than it being on this one diagram, but not numbered like the distributor, cap, rotor and base O-ring. Anybody have any idea what the correct nomenclature is for this part and if this is something that might still be available out there somewhere? I suppose I could just run a bead of sealant around the base of the cap, but I'd be a lot happier if I could find an OEM or aftermarket replacement instead. Thanks.
  6. So, that works, using a relay with terminal 87 on the five terminal relay connected to the yellow w/red wire going to the key switch, 30 and 85 both connected to the black wire from the key switch (Which goes to ground in the harness.) and 86 connected to the temporary pulse supplied to the actuator from a separate relay which was one of two used to control the power door lock actuator. I will do a full write up on installing a Python alarm (Or really, any modern positive pulse output aftermarket alarm, which is most of them, and also those that can be switched to be positive or negative pulse output) to co-exist with, and retain full functionality of both systems, in any 93-ish ES (And probably other submodels) that has power door locks but did NOT come with a remote access system, as soon as I get the chance unless somebody else has done this and I'm just not seeing it here. Nothing is needed beyond the basic alarm system, three standard five terminal relays, some 14-16 gauge wire, various miscellaneous terminal connectors and if you want to do it right, some shrink tubing, plus a length of rod to join the actuator to the existing door lock rod so the lock rod is moved up and down when actuated.
  7. Well, figured out that the yellow w/red wire needs to be grounded to the black w/white wire, going to/from the key switch in the door, in order to disable the armed status of the intrusion system. Looks like the yellow with red comes from the ECM/CPU which in turn is connected to the theft deterrent control system. Guess I just need to figure out a way for the unlock signal from the aftermarket alarm to trigger another relay, that will allow a temporary ground pulse between the two wires and thus disarm the theft deterrent module.
  8. Really, any ideas at all?
  9. Revisiting this, albeit sometime later, djdevon3 was absolutely correct in that it was an aftermarket keyless entry setup, just to be clear. Fast forward to today, I figured it would be more appropriate to start my own thread rather than to continue hijacking another members old thread and I've torn out the keyless entry because it quit working completely and I felt the need to install an aftermarket alarm anyhow, mostly for the 2 way paging feature. I do have a problem though and was hoping maybe one of you had come across this as I can't seem to find anything on the forum that's relevant. I have the alarm fully installed, and that's not an issue, but what IS an issue is the fact that it seems that an aftermarket actuator was installed along with the aftermarket keyless entry module, sometime before I bought the vehicle, since it did NOT originally have keyless entry. Now, I have the system working correctly using the Python alarm outputs to arm/disarm and lock/unlock, however, if I remotely unlock using the alarm fob, rather than unlocking using the key, the factory alarm goes off. It didn't do this with the prior aftermarket remote entry system and I can't seem to determine HOW they bypassed that function of the factory theft deterent system. Any ideas? Thanks. BTW, just picked up another 626, of identical year and sub model, for 300 bucks. I'm anxious to see what kind of goodies I can rob from it for my car because aside from a blown head gasket, which doesn't matter since I plan to pull that engine and do a full rebuild along with some performance modifications, the car is in great shape. Body and paint are much better than mine, so I'll probably do a full body panel swap. Interior is in good shape and sfaik all of the other features are still functional and present. I've got a few little broken items here and there like the dash bezel and a couple of small missing trim pieces, so I'm going to rob everything off this car that I can to make one car that's as close to original condition as possible. Mechanically, just about everything on the chassis and under the hood of my original 626 has pretty much been replaced anyway so I'm not too worried about designed wear on consumable parts. If you have any suggestions on uncommon items that I'd better make sure to pull and set aside because I'm going to find that they are either hard to find or expensive, in the event it fails, I'm all ears.
  10. Disregard
  11. On that part, I think it has to be. I didn't see anything inside the doors that would lead me to believe it was installed at any point after manufacture. Same thing goes for the trunk. It's almost definitely factory.
  12. On mine the module was located at about knee level, glued, to the inside of the lower dash cover that encloses the upper part of the steering column. It did turn out to be an aftermarket setup but I was able to find the procedure for it online with the information that was on the receiver. Good luck and if you have trouble I'm sure one of us can get you in the right direction. I'll be posting more on this car soon as it's been kinda on hold due to shoulder surgery.
  13. Yeah, I didn't think it would matter. Seems like there was just an open thermal chamber in the IAC body that bolts to the bottom of the throttle body so direction shouldn't be an issue. I sure can't figure out anything else that's effecting the idle though. I guess I'm going to have to disconnect one of those lines and force purge the IAC body and other parts of the bypass system just to make certain there is no air lock going on. After that, maybe a new IAC is needed although it was working perfectly fine before I removed the intake to replace that rear vc gasket. Sometimes, I really fricken' hate imports. I know, domestics ain't no better more often than not. I just hate them all. Equally. I get sick of these hiccups that distort an otherwise uneventful repair job.
  14. Thanks Nick but unfortunately that won't help as the IAC lines are coolant lines that, again unfortunately, are not included on the coolant hose routing diagram either. Vacuum doesn't seem to be a problem as the vacuum routing has been checked and checked again and seem to be correct. Thanks for the up though.
  15. Well, the diagram was certainly helpful in making certain the heater hoses are routed to the correct locations but it doesn't show the proper routing of the hoses for the Idle air control. Any chance anybody has those or knows which hose goes to which nipple? There is one hose coming from just to the left of the cast plug at the end of the cylinder head and the other one is apparently coming from the base of the EGR valve on the side closer to the front of the vehicle. I suppose the EGR must be thermostatically controlled as well. Just want to verify these IAC, EGR and bypass hoses are all correctly routed in order to eliminate that as the source of the problem. Thanks for any help in this regard.