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sharps7789 last won the day on September 24 2014

sharps7789 had the most liked content!

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About sharps7789

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  1. Hi. I have a Mazda Mx6 that has a kl64 computer box. The wires for the crank sensor pulled out. I would like to know where does it go back to on the plug, what pins? The colours are 1 green 1 blue.

  2. You can replace it with one out of a 88-92 Ford probe..or a Mx-6 gearbox.. or a GT Gearbox.. all interchange the GT gearbox is stronger
  3. Mine has 204,xxx miles 2.2 5 speed if anyone has spare parts theyd sell or donate let me know cause the resto-mod starts now ill keep this site updated as i go along!
  4. Wow I havent been here in a year! thinking about restoring my 626, Thoughts?
  5. back ones arent too bad, remove the 3rd member light cover and drop backseatrests down and remove the cover, and there they be, front ones... gotta take lower dash apart.
  6. I also use my car as a truck with my ramps, both tool boxes, jacks, jackstands, oil, antifreeze.. everything in my trunk for working on it XD im obssesed with it
  7. Alrighty then! First thing you need to do is jack up the passenger side of the car near the front wheel and support it with a jack stand.. PLEASE do not rely on just a jack.. then after the vehicle is secure get into your car and cut the wheel all the way to the right. you can do this process without removing the tire. Remove the 4 bolts holding on the lower splash shield and wiggle it out of the way to get to your harmonic balancer, still easy?.. take a 21mm socket and a breaker bar and place it on the harmonic balancer bolt, then wedge the breaker bar against the bottom "A" arm of the cars front suspension, then bump the key on your ignition, it should make a bump outside the car and then try to crank normally, wallah, instant loosened bolt, and now that that is loose, you need to loosen your alternator and a/c compressor to get your belts off, a 12mm wrench and socket, a 14mm wrench and socket are required for this. once you get the belts off take off the top timing cover there are 3 10mm bolts holding it on. then go back to the bottom of the car and on the harmonic balancer there are 6 bolts holding it on which are 10 mm, they should come out by hand with a ratchet and sockter then the harmonic balancer falls right off, and remember to take the thrust washer off too, remove the lower timing cover which is 2 10mm bolts on each side, you have to pull out on this cover after removing the bolts to get it off. -takes a deep breath- Now you are able to see your timing belt, run the bolt back in on the crankshaft so you will be able to spin the motor over with a socket and ratchet to line the camshaft "1" with a big arrow on it up with the arrow stamped at the top of the aluminum backing plate behind the camshaft sprocket, if you look on the crankshaft its dot will be lined up with the timing mark stamped on the water pump housing.. if not the previous person timed it wrong, like what happened on my car , anyways.. on the tensioner loosen its 14mm bolt and use a big screwdriver pushing on the belt to move it back about 2 inches, then re-tighten it so it will hold itself out of the way for you :), then carefully remove your belt as to not move the crankshaft or camshaft sprockets, and you finally got that darn belt off! dont you just love interference engines when you are paranoid about that booger breaking? lol inspect the belt for cracks and damage such as burning, which could be a bad tensioner or idler, inspect both tensioner and idler too as they spin free and make little noise, if they are hard to spin, change them. as for the belt, id reccomend changing it with a Goodyear Gatorback, they are fairly cheap and NAME BRAND for this car and they can be found here: ( http://www.amazon.co...81&s=automotive ) also make sure your water pump has NO play in it while you are here! Now its time to make sure your timing marks are still lined up on your crank and cam, carefully route the timing belt around the sprockets and tensioner and idler, when you think you have it on and the marks are still lined up loosen the tensioner bolt and retighten it hand tight, and CHECK CHECK CHECK your timing marks are lined up, if they arent loosen the belt and try again, get it right, the right timing makes all the difference, it also spells a good running motor or destruction. when its all said and done on installing the belt, start the car and make sure it still runs good, and check the belt as it rides to assure its not binding on anything, then shut the car off, and start the reassemble process :) all in all its not a bad job but will consume atleast 3 hours.. being me 6'6 and about 300lbs its hard for me to work on things efficiently, but i still fit in my mazda just fine if you have any questions on the timing belt process please feel free to ask and post this wherever people need help with it! now its time to make sure your timing marks are lined up, both crank and cam and reinstall your timing belt
  8. So ive changed my timing belt today, the people who owned it before me let the belt jump 2 teeth when they timed it so its never been timed right but now it sings :) if anyone wants to know this process i will explain it on here :D
  9. could be ATC.. could be wiring.. a number of things pick up a Factory service manual and start narrowing it down :)
  10. Im not any good at profile stuff.. lol.. im located in kentucky but ill accept one from anywhere if the price is right :)
  11. So im looking for a F2 engine.. Turbo or non, something that i can rebuild.. anybody got anything out there?
  12. I never had a factory shop manual only haynes and chiltons books but hey.. i gues use what you got lol
  13. Its a fairly short cable its easy to follow.. i dont have any diagrams but HAynes books on these cars sell cheap and are a great help, and neutral safety switch sounds like its going bad, may need to be replaced, I cant remeber if its on the transmission or near the shifter on ATX models
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