mazdamax

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About mazdamax

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  • Car
    '93 626 2.5L manual
  1. who to do speedo ?

    Hi, Have been troubled by non functioning speedo, tach, and misc. gauges. Removed instrument cluster checked continuity, outward condition, loose plugs, bent/distorted pins...even changed a perfect looking 15 amp fuse...all to no avail. I became aware of the frequent occurrence of this problem throughout the entire gamut of the auto world...at least that segment with printed circuits for the instruments. So I proceeded to look around at different outfits that repair instrument clusters. Sad to say, but no one seems able to fix the damned thing. Does any one know of a company that could fix my unit? Thanks, mazdamax
  2. who to do speedo ?

    Hi, Have been troubled by non functioning speedo, tach, and misc. gauges. Removed instrument cluster checked continuity, outward condition, loose plugs, bent/distorted pins...even changed a perfect looking 15 amp fuse...all to no avail. I became aware of the frequent occurrence of this problem throughout the entire gamut of the auto world...at least that segment with printed circuits for the instruments. So I proceeded to look around at different outfits that repair instrument clusters. Sad to say, but no one seems able to fix the damned thing. Does any one know of a company that could fix my unit? Thanks, mazdamax
  3. Hi all, One day out of the blue my tachometer, speedometer and heat guage simply quit...like stone dead. Can you point out a culprit for this? I surmise that since all 3 died at once the cause is probably not a fuse issue, since each is probably fused separetly and the likelyhood of all 3 blowing at the same time is in the region of winning the lottery. Do you think connector? And if so where is it located? Any other possibilities? mazdamax '93 626 ES
  4. Hi Guys,Well, checked everything, found timing off 2 teeth with aid of illuminated mirror while had covers off. Starts right up, runs like silk above 1200 rpm or so...but will not idle smoothly. If I run it up for a while, then release throttle she hunts up and down, almost stalling then runs up to just over 1000 rpm then settles down to a steady but lumpy 500 rpm. I really think the TPS might be the culprit. It is an after market unit 6-7 years old. I thought of buying a new one then going through the whole idle set up proceedure again. Or I could just wait until 2018 when this car becomes 25 years old and a "classic" in NJ. At that point I will no longer have to go thru state exhaust emissions inspections. I would then just set the idle up a bit and live happily ever after. Thanks, mazdamax
  5. Timing Mystery

    Hi All, Yes, I agree this is the only answer to this mystery this side of the Twilight Zone. Still I cannot get my mind around how timing can get 1 tooth off with all timing marks on and belt and pulleys fully integrated and engaged. I intend to fully mark current timing positions in as many places as I can so that subsequent attempts will show some divergence. I am not even sure which way engine turns...so am looking for the 1 tooth to be clockwise or counterclockwise from present position? I will attempt to get this right after a camp out at Lime Rock Park, Conn. in a trailer with my motor head engineer son for near a week of vintage racing, adult beverage consumption and vintage car shows tour d'elegance courtesy of my son and grand daughter for my 81st birthday. I know you guys don't want us to wax sentimental here but I couldn't resist. Hey, give an old Mazda codger a break OK? Guess I'm trying to say if you don't hear from me it's not because the guy with the sickle terminated my expiration date....it's just that I'm having too much damn fun and even stuff like Mazda timing marks will just have to get in line. Thanks for all the great help, advice and steadfast interest. I'd not have gotten this far without It! Cheers, mazdamax
  6. How To Get This Crud Off?

    Hi, Wonder if anyone here has a '93 626 in the silver (platinum) color. I don't know whether the dull dark crud on most of car is old wax or broken down gloss coat. After a lot of rubbing some areas reveal a beautiful paint finish under crud. I don't know if there is a good solution (or compound) for this condition. I don't want to destroy the paint underneath. Any advice much appreciated. Thanks, mazdamax
  7. Timing Mystery

    Thanks Guys. A most illuminating diagnosis. Just for your info the dist. installed is a correct Mitsubishi new/old stock I got for a song not long ago. Rotor is installed correctly. I am running timing light off # 1. Acts like 1 tooth off, but HOW with all marks lined up? Could it be within the realm of possibility that my head rebuild place grabbed a look alike cam off the shelf for say a 1.8L v6 or Ford Ranger 2.5 L Dura-tech which probably have different cam profiles and/or the cam sprocket locator pin in a different degree position on cam face. No visible twisting, all cams lined up right Actually car runs to good side of shaking and backfiring. Idles a bit rough and just a little up and down in diagnostic, however revs like gangbusters smooth as silk. I am considering buying a used correct '93 KL L exh. cam... or the entire complete head if I have to. Then I would proceed to pull the resident cam and install the new used one. Does anyone know how long the '93 cam setup was used on the 626 KL's? That info would open up my universe of replacement possibilities considerably. Big thanks! mazdamax
  8. Timing Mystery

    Thanks for the Birthday Greetings! Astute call on the dist rotor. With 3 flats one could conceivably install it wrong...if that one was a gorilla, or bigger hammer advocate. Not the case unfortunately. I may have been off on my degrees retarded....(not me personally). Looked like the notches on vib. damper were about about 1-1/2 to 2 times the length of the 10 degree scale retarded from where they should be. When car was right the dist would have to be turned almost completely clockwise to achieve timing ( 10 degrees BTDC)....now at that position I am 25 to 30 degrees BTDC. Still don't know why dist had to be so far clockwise. Do you think filing slots longer would get me golden? Oh, I don't know if I mentioned way back that I had to replace the Left hand cyl. head with a rebuilt unit that came with cams. Of course to install that I had to remove cams to get at cyl. head bolts. I inspected them and they looked good in every regard...of course I synched them to each other before tightening down bearing caps. Don't know what ramifications were engendered with that replacement. I love a good mystery, but this is ridiculous. Thanks again guys...think I'll get bombed mazdamax
  9. Timing Mystery

    Thanks dj, Good advice, but don't understand about "incorrectly installed cam gear (must be torqued to spec)". You can put it on backwards (which I did in one of the iterations of this job), but it can only go on the right way or backwards, what does torqued have to do with the timing line up? Again cams are right to each on other both heads. New vibration damper (on 2 piece damper, damper rubber can deteriorate putting notch in wrong place). Key is fine. How can cam get twisted? Can rubber belt exert enough force on solid 1-1/8' casting to twist it before crank pulley begins spiting out rubber teeth? What do you think of moving L sprocket one belt tooth clockwise or counterclockwise in relation to the actual timing marks. How many degrees is that worth? Turn which way? Also I have to add, I must have the distributor hard turned clockwise to the end of the slots to even get timing to be 20..30 degrees off. Was thinking of filing out dist slots to allow me to turn it further clockwise, but remedies like that only indicate trouble outside of normal parameters and desperation initiatives then come to mind. To your considerable knowledge was there ever a period where Mazda either made different cam sprockets, or utilized a different timing mark to perhaps be able to utilize incorrectly indexed (cam slots or what have you?) camshafts? Can you line up cam sprocket by dist drive slot with timing belt slack. What hours would slot point to in correct position?...i.e. 1,7 10,4 3,9. If this thing runs this good that far out of time I can only imagine how well it will run when this mystery is solved! I REALLY appreciate your help. mazdamax
  10. Timing Mystery

    Hi all, specially djdevon3; I finally got to a point with my '93 626 v6, where I just had to leave it alone for a while. After becoming expert at all the various tests and adjustments I started to get really weird code readouts and codes for things that I had corrected....so I began to suspect the ECU (the only major component not replaced). I replaced that with a rebuilt and have noticed a big improvement already. She idles much better and stays around 700 to 1000 at idle, but exhaust sounds really labored and idle is still rough. I suspected timing is off. Since my timing light (Snap On) can't pull a signal through the NGK ign wires I initially made a jury rigged setup that didn't really give a steady light, so I was never really sure the timing was right, plus the idle speed was well into advance. I decided to convert a spare dist cap to have a terminal from #1 to the top of the distributor with a bare copper wire to pick up from. Works really great now and with idle at 700 or so and in diagnostic mode I get a correct timing reading which looks to be about 25 to 30 degrees BTDC. That IS the problem and why exhaust sounds so strangled. Now how can this be? I triple checked the timing marks, even going so far as to pull cam covers and check that cams on both heads are in synch to each other according to the punch marks on each cam. Is there some alternative mark or dimple that may have been used on L spocket? I think I vaguely remember in my first timing belt replacement that there was painted mark on the L sprocket that was used rather than the usual cast dimple. Wish I had written a note to myself on that. I had to replace the L sprocket because I broke the drive pin free trying to turn a seized cam. I threw that sprocket away so can't look for alternative timing marks, notches or whatever on it. I suppose I could play around turning cam sprockets this way and that a tooth at a time to see if I can bring things into proper relationship...but boy that's a lot of work! But, since this is a non-interference motor (thank God) that would work. Any advice from anyone would be much appreciated! Cheers, mazdamax
  11. 99 626 2.5L Hard To Start When Hot

    Make sure that your cooling system is full...no air pockets or your IAC may not be able to gauge coolant temp. properly causing rough idle and hot start problems. Also you may want to check your fuel pressure regulator...plenty of posts to tell you how.
  12. Air Flow Sensor Readings

    OK, it's been a while.....probably thought that guy must have assumed room temp....I mean what the hell is an 80 year old friggin' around with a worn out 626 for anyhoo? Well as Mark Twain once said " rumors of my death are greatly exaggerated" I said I would letcha know and this is the scoop. I looked high and low for a decent used VAF. Well, after dealing with an assortment of mouth breathing, knuckle dragging junk yard troglodytes that couldn't answer anything more technical than year and model, let alone ohm readings I decided to buy a remanufactured VAF from A1Cardone.. sorry I can't do a post mortem on it because I gotta send back the core unscathed. So I guess what a VAF looks like inside will have to remain a mystery. Hooked every thing up. Started her up and after some searching and revving up and down she settled into an idle right around 750 rpm. Still not a perfect idle, but I can take it from here and tweak this or that to get that illusive nice smooth idle. I just gotta praise you guys again, and specially you dj for sticking with me on this to a successful conclusion. Your help and support got me through and tought me some things about these motors that would allude most shade tree mechanics. I'll stay in touch, both to help and maybe to straighten out some minor problems the old girl still has. Fond regards, mazdamax
  13. Air Flow Sensor Readings

    Yes, I have come to the conclusion that you cannot take anything for granted on these motors. How many times I thought I had found the offender...only to have all the old maladies there again. We are getting close though, as she hasn't idled this near normal since I began this seemingly endless quest. I must add that cleaning didn't do anything to improve or degrade idle, in other words the yo yoing rpms, the rough smelly idle etc....why she idles better now is a mystery. maybe taking it on and off did do something to it. Yes I will cut the darned thing open and send pics of the innards, also the motor and car in general. I have an "69 BMW 1600 with a souped engine that I want to make roadable again licensed as an "antique". That should be a piece of cake compared to this trial by fire. Letcha know all future developments as they occur. Well, off to ebay. Again thanks for the support! mazdamax
  14. Air Flow Sensor Readings

    Gracias! dj, Yeah, ECU might not be so nuts....it might be anticipating my driving it off a bridge in the not so distant future. Much obliged for the help. Could be we finally have the real culprit. Looks like El Exejente is gonna get another part. Keep ya posted. Cheers, mazdamax
  15. Air Flow Sensor Readings

    Thanks dj, Yes, he was referring to the diagram you sent both for pins and values. He checked all three categories @ the 68 degree range ( it was 70 degrees at test site). The E2 to Vc and E2 to THA were within spec. The E2 to Vs readings, however varied wildly. Just for my information, ohms always confuse me, and my son's not here now, when you say low resistance you are referring to a high # on the scale, like if you had a near short circuit you might read 1 ohm or less. on the other hand infinity ohms means no resistance at all. So according to our readings in the E2 to Vs category we are sort of going from low resistance to high resistance as the bulb is pushed in...but the readings are out of the ballpark, specially right as you move the bulb in, say 1/8 to 1/4 inch and the # spikes up to 100K or so, then push in a bit more and readings come right back down (relatively). I sort of suspect the resistor as to my way of thinking there should be a smooth rise in resistance without the valleys and peaks and flat spots, also on the chart for E2 to Vs "closed" (idle?)looks like more resistance than when at "open" (full throttle). Am I correct here? Are we looking at this backwards? Seems like another of those strange coincidences, as the VAS was fine before my ministrations. Oh well, though confused I feel like we are drawing ever nearer to the answer. Regards, mazdamax