chenxuwen

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About chenxuwen

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  • Car
    2000 Mazda 626 ES-V6

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  • Location
    New England
  1. Dear All, Could you help me diagnose a brake problem? My rear brakes are burning red hot and cooking brake pads, so I changed rear calipers, pads, and rotors. Then I was to bleed all four brakes yesterday. Then the following happen. Note: 1. all the wheels can be turned freely before turning on the car. 2. The car has no abs 1. Start the engine. 2. Bleed rear passenger side. Fluid came out very, pressure not enough, not very much fluid coming out. 3. Bleed rear driver side. Fluid came out slowly, pressure not enoguh, not very much fluid coming out. 4. Bleed front passenger side. Fluid eject for a second, but only air coming out. No matter how many time I try, only fluid with buble burst out for a short period, cannot maintain pressure. 5. Bleed front driver side. Fluid eject for a second, but only air coming out. No matter how many time I try, only fluid with buble burst out for a short period, cannot maintain pressure. 6. Fully confused and realized that all four wheels cannot be turned or are all locked up. 7. During the front brakes bleeding process, the pedal can be easily pressed to the ground. 8. One hour after turn off the car, wheels can be turned now. Could you help me diagnose this brake problem? Thanks a lot!
  2. Dear All, I am trying to change my front calipers. But I need to get new crush washers and new banjo bolts. Could you help me with the sizes? Thanks for a lot!
  3. Dear All, Can one remove the exhaust downpipe using only floor jacks and jack stands while not dropping the front crossmember? Or Transverse Member? These two things seems different in the manual but I am not sure which one is in the way. My downpipe is leaking and would like to fix it. Thanks a lot!
  4. I hope you get better soon, DJ. Your videos guided me through many repairs. You yourself personnally answered my questions in the forum. I also benefited from your reply to the others. You have helped the whole 626 community.
  5. If you put the old distributor back on, does it still misfire? If not, then highly likely to be the distributor.
  6. I already bit the bullet and changed the starter yesterday. It starts now. I will take the old one to advances to test if it still works or not.
  7. I just asked AAA to jump it. Still no go. Turning the key drops the voltage to 12.1V. So solenoid clicks but no actual power to the starter? No codes either, so it should not be a sensor.
  8. I just asked AAA to jump it. Still no go. Turning the key drops the voltage to 12.1V. So solenoid clicks but no actual power to the starter?
  9. The abttery is at 12.3V, not perfect. But should be able to start it. I started the car three hours before this happened actually.
  10. Dear All, I believe my car's starter died this morning. It was first cranking with a weak sound, then it stopped. Turning to on has a click so I guess the solenoid is OK. Turning the key gives a black out for a second, but it just won't crank. So I guess it is the starter. Loooking at the factory manual, it seems really not easy. Oil pipe and transverse member. Is it possible to do it without taking these two things off?
  11. My 2c, those k&n increases your fuel trim. Get a Obd2, you will see those K&N has around 13% fuel trim while puralator has around 5%. This is why I sold my k&n with recharge for 35 and never looked back.
  12. Glad you don't think those things are shit. Yeah, I do have a dash cam and a gps antena connected to the headunit which are very useful. The whine basically stays the same. So it should not be the alternator. I already did the big three grounding upgrade with 4 gauge wires, so it is hard to say the grounding or alternator is bad. I found all kinds of corroded grounds in my engine bay under the air box. I'm not even sure where yours are. I have a spare smartphone I'm using as a dashcam but I keep having issues with it. This week the Samsung Evo 64GB microsd card just died. That grounding on the transmission under the airfilter has been specifically taken care of in the sense that away from the original grounding, a 4 gauge wire is bolted there with silve epoxy to reinforce the conductivity.
  13. The speakers do not directly connect to the head unit on the 1998-2002 Mazda 626. There is an amplifier under the passenger seat. So the speake 0-potential point (usually called the ground) may not be the ground for the head unit. WinCE systems can also do that. Just android units can run much more stuffs now. It is a Chinese-made brandless android head unit. [Just in case, let us really hold the quality talk (and stuffs like this must be the problem and I deserve it) since it will not help.] I investigated further and found out that if the speakers are directly connected to the headunit. (Done outside of the car.) Then there won't be a noise. So it seems to be that amplifier under the passenger seat causing the problem. (amplifying too much, perhaps.) Oh my bad. I was distracted and forgot that you mentioned that about the amp. A Chinese made brandless Android head unit? Sounds pretty cool. I'm interested in these because you can connect a dash cam to them. I'm not a big audiophile anyway. I wouldn't do the quality talk. This is a 16 year old car so I think we're past that right? Did the whine increase with the engine speed or always stay the same? Glad you don't think those things are shit. Yeah, I do have a dash cam and a gps antena connected to the headunit which are very useful. The whine basically stays the same. So it should not be the alternator. I already did the big three grounding upgrade with 4 gauge wires, so it is hard to say the grounding or alternator is bad.
  14. The speakers do not directly connect to the head unit on the 1998-2002 Mazda 626. There is an amplifier under the passenger seat. So the speake 0-potential point (usually called the ground) may not be the ground for the head unit. It is a Chinese-made brandless android head unit. [Just in case, let us really hold the quality talk (and stuffs like this must be the problem and I deserve it) since it will not help.] I investigated further and found out that if the speakers are directly connected to the headunit. (Done outside of the car.) Then there won't be a noise. So it seems to be that amplifier under the passenger seat causing the problem. (amplifying too much, perhaps.)
  15. It is more like: I used the original grounding but has noise and then I grounded the head unit's case to the chassis with an 8 gauge. So I comfirmed that it is not the grounding. I'm not surprised the original ground was bad and that sounds reasonable, I was just having a hard time picturing what was going on there. What do you mean by has noise? Is there like an AC whine? Or you're just getting a high resistance reading from that ground wire? What head unit is this? The factory speakers ground in the head unit. They don't ground to the chassis like some older cars. So whatever ground your head unit is using is the same ground the speakers are using. Yes, the noise is like a AC whining/white noise. (Not radio signals.) Actually, the speakers are not grounded. Their inputs are differential. I checked, none of the speaker wires is connected to the ground.