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jwolf90

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About jwolf90

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  1. Good day to you all. Awhile back I noticed the clutch pedal point of engagement move much closer to the floor. At first I thought the problem was caused by leaking master and/u release cylinders. After changing both, it was possible to shift gears and drive the vehicle, however, the lower-than-normal engagement issue persisted. While changing said cylinders, I noticed horizontal and vertical free play in clutch release fork that I don't remember having during the previous times doing the same repair. Upon doing research the evidence seems to be pointing toward the problem being caused by a broken and/or disconnected pivot ball. Wondering if anyone has experienced a similar issue and/or has insight in the matter and if so if you would be willing to share thoughts. Will try to share photos and/or videos. Thanks in advance, Joe
  2. jwolf90

    Illumination

    I am also having issues with my dash lights not working after installing a stereo. I checked fuses and found that the 10 amp "illum" fuse was blown. Replaced it and then tried grounding each of the dead end grey wires (there are three variations of grey wires on my vehicle) coming from where the factory stereo wiring harness used to be before a previous owner cut it out. Grounding each of the grey wires one at a time didn't make the dash lights come on. Since someone said that the illumination wire is grey on their vehicle, I next tried connecting each of the grey wires one at a time to the illumination wire on the aftermarket stereo pigtail. That didn't make the dash lights come on. Next, per modifiedlife.com, I tried connecting the red wire coming from where the factory wiring harness used to be to the illumination wire on the aftermarket stereo pigtail. That did not cause the dash lights to come on. I checked the fuse afterward and it is still good. Not sure what to try next besides getting under the dash to see If I accidentally pulled something loose while rerouting speaker wires. Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated. Thanks!
  3. @zdanman: I followed djdevon3's advice and looped the plugged oil cooler coolant line back into the systems. I was able to loop it up and around to another plugged fitting near the thermostat housing. That was a couple months ago and haven't had any issues. Just a thought.
  4. Hadn't thought of looping it back in. Wondering if using a T - fitting to connect the oil cooler line into the line coming from the bottom of the overflow tank is a good idea, or if there is a better place to loop it back into the system.
  5. Thanks for the reply. So you don't think something like just JB welding (High Heat) a bolt in the oil cooler fitting would have a very good chance of being water tight?
  6. Just finished replacing a cracked/leaking rubber cap on the oil cooler fitting for the second time in the last 8 months. Wondering if you know of a more permanent remedy to plug the oil cooler fitting.
  7. I need to change the oil anyway so I will check those hoses out then. As long as I check the coolant level every morning, adding when necessary and stick around town it does fine. I'm glad you mentioned changing a leaking OPS... there's oil on the connecting wire... prob knock that out as well while I'm there.
  8. When the temp gauge on my '98 2.5L started creeping up, I pulled over to let it cool and noticed coolant dripping from around a rubber cap located above the oil filter. Is this the oil pressure switch? Would coolant leak from the OPS, provided the head gasket was ok? Any advice would be much appreciated.
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