JeeCee

Members
  • Content count

    5
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About JeeCee

  • Rank
    Newbie

Previous Fields

  • Car
    2001, 626, 2.0, manual
  1. Hi all, I have an European Mazda 626 2.0L Diesel, production year 2000, with 280k km (174k miles) on the odo. Currently I'm having an issue that is very much temperature related. When it's cold outside and when my car stood still for a while (like overnight or, when really cold, after a working day), I'm experiencing issues (powerloss) between 1000-1500 RPM. After a while, when the engine is at a certain temperature or so, the engine runs just fine. Some more details: I only have this issue below 12°C / 54°F (or when the car stood still over the weekend, I might feel a few hickups between 12-15°C / 54-59°F) It started a few months before summer, dissapeared fully(!) during summer and started again just a few weeks ago When 11°C / 52°F I experience this only between about 1400-1500 RPM, the colder it gets, the wider this range becomes, starting at lower RPM Above and below the given range for a given temperature, the engine runs smooth So also no problem starting the car, engine runs smooth at 750-800 RPM When I think the engine is hot enough and the issue is gone, I can rev the engine and don't experience problems. However I might experience it again when I start to drive Between 9-11°C / 48-52°F I can start to drive shortly after starting the car as the issue dissapears quite soon The lower the temperature, the aggressive the issue, e.g. one morning at 7°C / 45°F after a standing still for the weekend, I couldn't rev the car above 1000 RPM (not by slowly increasing the revs nor by increasing fast) Diagnostics: I have an ODB2 connector at the leftside under the steering wheel but no luck getting data out of it with a bluetooth ELM327 and Android apps (it does work with other cars) I do not have error codes when bridging the TEN to GND in the 17-pin diagnostics connector Other things I want to let you know: I already looked into the (combined) MAF and IAT sensor, they where a bit dirty but not that much. Cleaning them didn't do much however I have a slight feeling that it may be a little bit colder before having the issue. I do not experience any increased fuel consumption, fuel consumption slowly decreased over the last 5 years from 6.1l/100km to 5.6l/100km At a garage (a general one, not Mazda), they said they couldn't read out my injectors but they suspect they might have become out of tolerance… Does this problem sound familiar to anyone? Or do you have tips to test something? Thanks in advance! Best regards, JeeCee
  2. I'm indeed researching using this forum. In the weekend I will search the needed modules and wires in my car. Thanks for you support, you will hear from me when I'm stuck :). If anybody else has any remarks, please let me know!
  3. I was thinking about using a small microcontroller. I can see in the "Door Locks.pdf" that I could use some signals from the CPU (also the signals from the keyless entry unit arrive there). Would this also be a good idea? And where is the CPU located? I also have 3 spare wires running from the trunk to the front. I already installed an aftermarket ultrasonic sensor backup system and I needed the reverse signal. It was easier to get that signal from the front than from inside the trunk lid. Also where is the keyless entry module located in the trunk? I only removed the left side panels in the trunk and didn't saw it. Maybe I must include that I'm from Belgium, the car is thus the European version :). Might differ I think?
  4. I often lock my door twice or more because I'm unsure if it locked or not and never heard the honk. Neither do I have an alarm, also the security light only goes on when the dashboard lights check occurs or I'm not aware that I have an alarm (I will try the "little sister"-trick ). I always close my car with the fob and I find myself always a few meters away from my car when I do that (because of the stuff that I carry) and thus often have to return because I didn't hear it lock. Long story short, for me it would be convenient that the flashers flash :). The wiring diagrams I found here: http://mazda626.net/topic/36955-i-have-some-626-diagrams-and-specs-does-anyone-need-them/ do not indicate a flashing functionality. I looked through the "Door Locks.pdf" and "Exterior Lights Exterior Lamps Circuit.pdf" documentation.
  5. Hi everybody! I recently bought a 2001 2.0L Mazda 626 and I'm very pleased with it. However, I have one question. Whenever I lock my car keyless, I have to listen very carefully to the lock actuators to know if my car is locked or not as my flashers do not flash and hence give no visible signal to me (quite annoying). I was thinking about including some electronics myself to give me the visible signal. After searching for some information and wiring diagrams, I stumbled onto this wonderful forum :). I found some wiring diagrams here but I also found some indications that this functionality is present in some Mazda's 626: - 1999 Mazda 626 ES V6 http://mazda626.net/topic/39802-reconnecting-lights-to-remote-entryalarm-system/ - 1993 mazda 626 4cylinder http://mazda626.net/topic/42262-disabling-factory-alarm/ Can somebody help me and let me know if this is also the case in my car? Is the keyless flashing functionality present in my car or not, how can I find this out and how can I find out why it isn't working while I have no other problems at all (with the keyless entry nor with the flasher nor with anything else...). Thanks in advance! JeeCee