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About KSsue

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    1994 Mazda 626 LX 2.5L V6 auto

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  • Location
    S. Central KS
  1. CEL is still coming on, chalking it up to the VRIS # 2 solenoid. Clueless as to why CEL doesn't come on until after driving for about 5 -8 min when to my understanding the solenoid malfunction code should check and actuate seconds after startup. Guess I need to start a new thread...thanks all for the helpful input.
  2. I was looking at explanations for CEL malfunction codes and kept seeing references to the PCME, ie "VRIS #2 solenoid connects to the PCME" and "This code is not memorized in the PCME non-volatile memory". Saw that PCM is Power or Powertrain Control Module but what is PCME....? same thing?
  3. Ok, I'm back. To follow up one of the original symptoms, the CEL on, after the distributor was replaced: CEL continues to come on after a few miles of driving, every time I drive, and stays on until you turn it off; if you start it up right after turning it off it does not come on again until you have driven the obligatory few miles. Finally got around to pulling the codes from the ECU and came up with 02, 03, 15, 23, 24,and 46. whew. 02 and 03 are crankshaft and camshaft position sensor codes; 15, 23, and 24 are O2 sensor codes, and 46 is VRIS #2 solenoid code. After reading up a bit on
  4. Thanks, I actually found an awesome photo of the 94 626 LX cruise control actuator posted by snailman 6 years ago on a post with a similar complaint, which zeroed in on the location of the actuator and highlighted what to look for; the vacuum hose was indeed disconnected. It was stuck into the top of the engine manifold; presumably they had a reason to disconnect and move it out of the way then forgot to reconnect. Reconnected to port on the actuator and problem was solved. THANKS. Love it when it's that easy, lol. I have not yet checked the codes for the check engine light as outlined ab
  5. Ok, got the car back from the mechanic's; he replaced the PCV valve and replaced/warrantied out the 8-month-old distributor so looks like he did reach the same conclusion after all (but apparently did not drive it much at all to get there...I assume you can check the disty currents directly at the engine somehow). So far so good; hasn't died on me in a few extended trips to town, although the weather has been cooler so will see what happens when it warms up again later this week. On the other hand, the check engine light is still coming on after a few minutes of driving, and now the cruise co
  6. Thanks Snailman, good to have a direct source and will squirrel that info away since I still think this is what is going on with it. Talked to the mechanic in question today (who replaced this distributor last Dec) and HE doesn't think that's the problem from what I told him it is doing..."too new" he says (among other things). He suspects a fuel feed problem, as was my secondary suspicion. But he hasn't driven it yet or had it fail on him so gonna have to leave it with him and have him drive around til it does so he can see for himself what it is doing. So have to give him a chance to actu
  7. Thanks NickR! You've provided a goldmine of info for a try-to-diy-er like me; I know my limitations where cars are concerned in general but this didn't sound all that difficult. Your reply is the sort of thing I had hoped to hear, here. :) First I am gonna make sure there was no warranty on the one last installed (assuming not but gotta make sure...) and talk to that mechanic, see what he says. He couldn't get it to reproduce the symptoms last time I took it to him and I think it is happening frequently enough now that he should be able to get it to happen if he drives it long enough. But
  8. That I am, still feeling him out. We have only had him fix this one major issue on this car in the two years we have had it so thinking I should give him another chance on this one especially if it has anything to do with the first distributor job. I like the guy and don't feel he's trying to con me or anything (it's a small town...his son plays HS football with my son, y'know?) so kind of have to see what happens next on this. Hate it when the guy you like and trust moves on and you don't know where he went...
  9. hmmm, NickR...I am gonna have to study that link for a bit to be sure I don't do any damage to my computer! The Autozone option sounds a little more user-friendly, lol...but I seem to recall hearing something negative about their code-reading service?? Like not thorough or something like that?
  10. Thanks for the comments, and the welcome. :) Actually my own early suspicion WAS the distributor...since it went out last December and left us stranded. When i started thinking about that possibility I stopped driving it the 20 miles to work every day because I didn't want to get stranded and can't afford the tow...Paid the mechanic dearly for the remanuf. distributor and an air intake tube? (and waited a good 2 weeks too) cause he was having trouble finding it, and have been wondering if I should actually go back and ask him about it (read: give him grief about it); it actually started acti
  11. My 94 Mazda 626 LX V6 has been having a problem where it suddenly quits while driving, usually after it warms up (10-15 miles) but more recently can happen anytime. Generally the engine RPMs suddenly drop to 0 on the tachometer and the car may continue to run with no warning lights for a few seconds but eventually the engine dies completely and the car stops. Occasionally can re-start by shifting to neutral while car is in motion then restarting, but usually not; car starts and runs fine after stopping, turning off, then re-starting but getting harder to re-start without letting it sit for a
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