FIS

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Everything posted by FIS

  1. I don't know the 87 model, but I would ohm out every damn fuse I could find with a multimeter to be sure it's good, sometimes you can hardly see that it's melted.
  2. I remember seeing this photo on facebook, do you have some more detailed pictures of the lip?
  3. Try some of the facebook pages, sadly no one ever uses the forums anymore "/
  4. Is it still throwing the fuel pressure regulator code? Keep in mind the fuel pressure regulator is vacuum based and it's a solenoid that open/closes it.
  5. I'm impressed that you're still around after almost 5 years, nice to see that you did get it sorted out, and not so nice that you where glad to get rid of the car, but on the 98-02 version Ford had most of the electronics so it wasn't as reliable as a xx-97 100% pure Mazda.
  6. It's almost 5 year since this thread was active, most likely he got it sorted out. If yours does the same try checking the timing belt. Or make your own topic with some more detailed information.
  7. IT'S ALIVE!!!!! Did a quick check on the Distributor Ignition signal directly on the ECU and the shit was giving out a pulse as it should, tried again up front with no luck, ran a new wire outside of the car and disconnected the old wire and it fired right up! This is the best thing in months! Lots of cleanup to do now but my motivation is much higher now! Thanks for all the help.
  8. Hi. So I've done a lot of thinking before making this post as it's so often that the problem is super easy and as DjDevon3 says TEST TEST TEST, so as of now I've done as much as I can think of without getting closer to finding the problem. Ok, the problem is that my car, KLDE 93 mod does not get spark, it's already got the HEI mod and external coil (more info below) but it's not the problem. To start, the HEI is brand new Coil is measured and within spec Crank sensor is measured to 500 Ohm (Thinking it's ok since the range should be 520-580, and it's not the best multimeter) Tested and measured continuity on the "Ignition Relay" Checked fuses (and measured for continuity, all good) I recently did a KF distributor swap which was successful, but after the problem occurred I put my old dizzy back on and it has the same problem. Now, this is what I know. The KLDE has a crank sensor, the 93/94 has 2 (one is inside the distributor) and one cam sensor (inside the distributor). These sensors sends the ECU (or I believe the ECU gets the signal?) to calculate where the crank/cams are in order to send out a signal to the ignitor/ignition module so it can tell the coil to send out a spark. In my case since I have done the HEI mod I can easily tell if the ignition module/HEI is getting the signal and sending it to the coil, usually it receives it but doesn't send out a new one. BUT it does NOT receive any input signals from the ECU (or whatever it gets it from) so I can exclude both the HEI and the coil for being the problem. That leaves me with these options (and more I guess, these are the only one I can think of) Crank sensor at the crank (Which I measured) Crank sensor inside the distributor (Highly unlikely since it's the same for 2 different dizzy's) Cam sensor inside the distributor (Highly unlikely since it's the same for 2 different dizzy's) Relay(s) ECU I believe this is all I have for now, I'm just all out of clues on what it could be, or how to diagnose some more (no codes is stored either) ANY tips would be highly appreciated!
  9. I had some issues with the lenght so I had to order a custom catalyc converter as the pipes was too long. The rest was just minor adjustments.
  10. OBX is good, but I can't say how the exhaust system they have is. I run the magnaflow setup except it's 2.5" stainless steel with a bigger resonator and it sounds great!
  11. You should be able to find them here: http://pmx626.info/US/Mazda 626 & MX-6/Work Shop Manuals/PDF/2001 US Wiring Diagram.pdf
  12. I would also vouch for the piston rings.
  13. Now I can't play the audio, but the timing belt tensioner is known for going bad and making a noise that increases with the RPM, but since you said the sound went away when pressing the clutch got me thinking, NickR could be right on that one.
  14. VERY HARD! So hard it's not worth it. Requires tons of cash, knowledge and patience. If you'd like to see a way of doing it, here's a thread about it. https://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=1701310615
  15. Just the IAC valve I would estimate to be about £40, international shipping is very expensive sadly "/ So RIP car, hope it will be back on and working. Best of luck!
  16. I see no reason to take it to an auto electrician as they know little to less, I know wiring and I'm very interested in electricity, automation and stuff related to that, which is why I got an education for both those, alongside with experience from fiberoptic and more. And I am absolutely sure that I don't have spark, I have a sparkplug that I use to test for spark (yes it's working) and there is no sign. I have been thinking about going back to an OEM distributor and ignition again, but I would most likely need a new wiring harness to do so, so I'm considering that option. And I have only guessed that certain parts could be bad, but I have tested them according to the wiring schematics I have and it all seem.
  17. I gotz an IAC on the part engine too :D Great info here Mike, so nice to have some more information on a hard to diagnose problem!
  18. IF you would like to keep a 626 as your main car, by one with an engine failure as you suggested and swap the engine over from your car. But the cheapest option I would guess would be to scrap your 626 and buy another car that works and runs problem free. Reman trans, and junkyard transmission would both be out of the question for me, unless it had actually been a manual one, but doing a manual swap kinda requires lots lf parts so a donor car would be nice to have, so it's kinda stupid to get one then.
  19. I'm tunning out of ideas, but I tell you what, I have a full 98/99 spare FS engine at my fathers garage (not mine but who cares :p) has most of the ignition related parts, Coilpack, cam sensor, crank sensor and more coolant sensors etc and I can happily provide you these for free, as long as you'll cover whatever the shipment to australia would be. You'll most likely and hopefully won't need any of those but it's an offer so you can decide. I can also be able to provide you with a ECU for a 98 manual and the matching key if you'd like to try a ECU swap, but the immobilizer can be a pain in the ass. But with the key I guess you're all good I would estimate the shipping to be about £65, but then again I've been wrong :D
  20. Plugs havent even ran 100km yet, leads even less! So those are all good. i think you're missing the problem, the coil, ignitor, plugs, plugwires are all good, there is something before the ignition module that causes my problem, but I don't know what
  21. Thanks for the tip, guess I forgot to mention that I've already tried that with no luck. The only thing I can think of now is a short in the harness somewhere "/
  22. Yeah but you only use the crank and cam sensors from the distributor to get a spark, and that's what I'm missing here, I can exclude the cap and rotor until I get a spark from the coil.
  23. Thanks for the tip but I've got 2 different distributors, they are both ok "/ Checked some more of the wiring, every wire seems to be as it should, will try to do some more voltage testing next.
  24. So I checked for continuity between the HEI module, cam sensor (or crank sensor inside disty) and ECU and they are all good. Will check for continuity between the crank sensor and the ECU next, but I'm really loosing it
  25. Shouldn't be any problem as it's basically just an engine swap, the ECU and harness and everything ignition related would still be as before.