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Everything posted by FIS

  1. Get a shop to refill the AC system.
  2. The BBCode function has to be brought back ASAP, making posts now are like wiping your ass with no hands, sure it's possible but it's a lot more hassle.
  3. You are
  4. Yeah that should work just fine, just keep in mind to disconnect the old wire for the turbine sensor. And I have no idea of how this would affect the car or performance on an automatic, this is how you can do it to mimic the signal from the crank sensor so the code goes away if you've done a ATX to MTX swap, or if you simply are running a ATX ECU in a MTX.
  5. p0715 Input Turbine------Pin 2P --> splice to Pin 4AH (NE+) Tricking the ECU with the crank sensor which mimicks the input turbine p0715 Input Turbine------Pin 2T --> splice to Pin 4AL (NE-)
  6. 95-97 626, MX-6 or Probe.
  7. 1995 mod with the 2.5l v6 engine aka. KLDE with a manual transmission and the OEM EU sideskirts. One of the few sold new over here. Current mods on the car is: -6000k 55w Xenon in main lights. -4300k 55w Xenon in fog lights. -6000k LED bulbs in back fog light and back up light. -LED all around. -Cold Air Intake. -MX-6 leather steering wheel. -MAF swap. -Removed emblem from grill. -Cronos door sills (Stainless steel) -Chrome door handles. -Radiator cover in Alu. -Custom plug wire cover. -Dropdown Mazda logo in the doors. -96 Dashboard. -96 Rear spoiler with integrated brake light. -Strut Bar. -Digitale Climate Controller. -TruBend Magnaflow exhaust system. 2.5" Stainless steel. -Newly overhauled KLDE engine with KL31 pistons and cams. And my current plans for now are: -Install King6 rear suspension. -Install MS6 brakes and get it approved. And the long future plans are: -Win lotto. -New engine with 250hp @ N/A. -New headers. -MX-6 leather gearknob. -More awesome stuff. This is the plan as of 2016, might add some more things later Compression numbers as of 07.08.16 is: Cylinder 1 : 210psi Cylinder 2 : 205psi Cylinder 3 : 205psi Cylinder 4 : 210psi Cylinder 5 : 205psi Cylinder 6 : 205psi
  8. Don't you just love it when a package changes a shitty day into a nice one? :D 626 v6/2017-04-07 15.10.04_zps4qqxfmmc.jpg 626 v6/2017-04-07 15.10.46_zps2piwpjme.jpg 626 v6/2017-04-07 15.11.02_zpsfhtlmlmv.jpg 626 v6/2017-04-07 15.12.26_zpsb11fr9pn.jpg Condition is bad, but it's still ok as these are RARE! "Getting photos to work on the forums sux so bad, admin plz fix."
  9. Ahh, in order to clean this loosen the hose clamp on the back side of it and take it out of the filter housing, you'll see the inside of it as it's not possible to take it apart. The MAF you're thinking of is most likely of an ATX where it's possible to loosen some screws and take the sensor out of the housing. Pretty sure it's not possible on this type.
  10. Pretty sure that's a normal MAF for the 2.0, are you sure it's a different one?
  11. Strange, my ebay headers was in the same spot as the OEM downpipe, might have been unlucky there and it's shorter. Get a longer cat is my tip
  12. Did you replace the solenoid or the regulator? Timing belt marks
  13. I don't know the 87 model, but I would ohm out every damn fuse I could find with a multimeter to be sure it's good, sometimes you can hardly see that it's melted.
  14. I remember seeing this photo on facebook, do you have some more detailed pictures of the lip?
  15. Try some of the facebook pages, sadly no one ever uses the forums anymore "/
  16. Is it still throwing the fuel pressure regulator code? Keep in mind the fuel pressure regulator is vacuum based and it's a solenoid that open/closes it.
  17. I'm impressed that you're still around after almost 5 years, nice to see that you did get it sorted out, and not so nice that you where glad to get rid of the car, but on the 98-02 version Ford had most of the electronics so it wasn't as reliable as a xx-97 100% pure Mazda.
  18. It's almost 5 year since this thread was active, most likely he got it sorted out. If yours does the same try checking the timing belt. Or make your own topic with some more detailed information.
  19. Hi. So I've done a lot of thinking before making this post as it's so often that the problem is super easy and as DjDevon3 says TEST TEST TEST, so as of now I've done as much as I can think of without getting closer to finding the problem. Ok, the problem is that my car, KLDE 93 mod does not get spark, it's already got the HEI mod and external coil (more info below) but it's not the problem. To start, the HEI is brand new Coil is measured and within spec Crank sensor is measured to 500 Ohm (Thinking it's ok since the range should be 520-580, and it's not the best multimeter) Tested and measured continuity on the "Ignition Relay" Checked fuses (and measured for continuity, all good) I recently did a KF distributor swap which was successful, but after the problem occurred I put my old dizzy back on and it has the same problem. Now, this is what I know. The KLDE has a crank sensor, the 93/94 has 2 (one is inside the distributor) and one cam sensor (inside the distributor). These sensors sends the ECU (or I believe the ECU gets the signal?) to calculate where the crank/cams are in order to send out a signal to the ignitor/ignition module so it can tell the coil to send out a spark. In my case since I have done the HEI mod I can easily tell if the ignition module/HEI is getting the signal and sending it to the coil, usually it receives it but doesn't send out a new one. BUT it does NOT receive any input signals from the ECU (or whatever it gets it from) so I can exclude both the HEI and the coil for being the problem. That leaves me with these options (and more I guess, these are the only one I can think of) Crank sensor at the crank (Which I measured) Crank sensor inside the distributor (Highly unlikely since it's the same for 2 different dizzy's) Cam sensor inside the distributor (Highly unlikely since it's the same for 2 different dizzy's) Relay(s) ECU I believe this is all I have for now, I'm just all out of clues on what it could be, or how to diagnose some more (no codes is stored either) ANY tips would be highly appreciated!
  20. IT'S ALIVE!!!!! Did a quick check on the Distributor Ignition signal directly on the ECU and the shit was giving out a pulse as it should, tried again up front with no luck, ran a new wire outside of the car and disconnected the old wire and it fired right up! This is the best thing in months! Lots of cleanup to do now but my motivation is much higher now! Thanks for all the help.
  21. I had some issues with the lenght so I had to order a custom catalyc converter as the pipes was too long. The rest was just minor adjustments.
  22. OBX is good, but I can't say how the exhaust system they have is. I run the magnaflow setup except it's 2.5" stainless steel with a bigger resonator and it sounds great!
  23. You should be able to find them here: 626 & MX-6/Work Shop Manuals/PDF/2001 US Wiring Diagram.pdf