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Everything posted by FIS

  1. I would also vouch for the piston rings.
  2. Now I can't play the audio, but the timing belt tensioner is known for going bad and making a noise that increases with the RPM, but since you said the sound went away when pressing the clutch got me thinking, NickR could be right on that one.
  3. VERY HARD! So hard it's not worth it. Requires tons of cash, knowledge and patience. If you'd like to see a way of doing it, here's a thread about it.
  4. Just the IAC valve I would estimate to be about £40, international shipping is very expensive sadly "/ So RIP car, hope it will be back on and working. Best of luck!
  5. I see no reason to take it to an auto electrician as they know little to less, I know wiring and I'm very interested in electricity, automation and stuff related to that, which is why I got an education for both those, alongside with experience from fiberoptic and more. And I am absolutely sure that I don't have spark, I have a sparkplug that I use to test for spark (yes it's working) and there is no sign. I have been thinking about going back to an OEM distributor and ignition again, but I would most likely need a new wiring harness to do so, so I'm considering that option. And I have only guessed that certain parts could be bad, but I have tested them according to the wiring schematics I have and it all seem.
  6. Hi. So I've done a lot of thinking before making this post as it's so often that the problem is super easy and as DjDevon3 says TEST TEST TEST, so as of now I've done as much as I can think of without getting closer to finding the problem. Ok, the problem is that my car, KLDE 93 mod does not get spark, it's already got the HEI mod and external coil (more info below) but it's not the problem. To start, the HEI is brand new Coil is measured and within spec Crank sensor is measured to 500 Ohm (Thinking it's ok since the range should be 520-580, and it's not the best multimeter) Tested and measured continuity on the "Ignition Relay" Checked fuses (and measured for continuity, all good) I recently did a KF distributor swap which was successful, but after the problem occurred I put my old dizzy back on and it has the same problem. Now, this is what I know. The KLDE has a crank sensor, the 93/94 has 2 (one is inside the distributor) and one cam sensor (inside the distributor). These sensors sends the ECU (or I believe the ECU gets the signal?) to calculate where the crank/cams are in order to send out a signal to the ignitor/ignition module so it can tell the coil to send out a spark. In my case since I have done the HEI mod I can easily tell if the ignition module/HEI is getting the signal and sending it to the coil, usually it receives it but doesn't send out a new one. BUT it does NOT receive any input signals from the ECU (or whatever it gets it from) so I can exclude both the HEI and the coil for being the problem. That leaves me with these options (and more I guess, these are the only one I can think of) Crank sensor at the crank (Which I measured) Crank sensor inside the distributor (Highly unlikely since it's the same for 2 different dizzy's) Cam sensor inside the distributor (Highly unlikely since it's the same for 2 different dizzy's) Relay(s) ECU I believe this is all I have for now, I'm just all out of clues on what it could be, or how to diagnose some more (no codes is stored either) ANY tips would be highly appreciated!
  7. I gotz an IAC on the part engine too :D Great info here Mike, so nice to have some more information on a hard to diagnose problem!
  8. IF you would like to keep a 626 as your main car, by one with an engine failure as you suggested and swap the engine over from your car. But the cheapest option I would guess would be to scrap your 626 and buy another car that works and runs problem free. Reman trans, and junkyard transmission would both be out of the question for me, unless it had actually been a manual one, but doing a manual swap kinda requires lots lf parts so a donor car would be nice to have, so it's kinda stupid to get one then.
  9. I'm tunning out of ideas, but I tell you what, I have a full 98/99 spare FS engine at my fathers garage (not mine but who cares :p) has most of the ignition related parts, Coilpack, cam sensor, crank sensor and more coolant sensors etc and I can happily provide you these for free, as long as you'll cover whatever the shipment to australia would be. You'll most likely and hopefully won't need any of those but it's an offer so you can decide. I can also be able to provide you with a ECU for a 98 manual and the matching key if you'd like to try a ECU swap, but the immobilizer can be a pain in the ass. But with the key I guess you're all good I would estimate the shipping to be about £65, but then again I've been wrong :D
  10. Plugs havent even ran 100km yet, leads even less! So those are all good. i think you're missing the problem, the coil, ignitor, plugs, plugwires are all good, there is something before the ignition module that causes my problem, but I don't know what
  11. Thanks for the tip, guess I forgot to mention that I've already tried that with no luck. The only thing I can think of now is a short in the harness somewhere "/
  12. Yeah but you only use the crank and cam sensors from the distributor to get a spark, and that's what I'm missing here, I can exclude the cap and rotor until I get a spark from the coil.
  13. Thanks for the tip but I've got 2 different distributors, they are both ok "/ Checked some more of the wiring, every wire seems to be as it should, will try to do some more voltage testing next.
  14. So I checked for continuity between the HEI module, cam sensor (or crank sensor inside disty) and ECU and they are all good. Will check for continuity between the crank sensor and the ECU next, but I'm really loosing it
  15. Shouldn't be any problem as it's basically just an engine swap, the ECU and harness and everything ignition related would still be as before.
  16. Well we're back to ordering new parts before checking but it's your decision Yes you can just take a spare spark plug with you, remove one of the plug wires and make sure it has contact to the ground, could be smart to test on a place to be sure you've got contact and can clearly see a spark.
  17. Devon woke up last year, nice to see him showing some knowledge on this, but I thought you said it was a no spark situation when the car stalled? That's the first thing I would have checked. Either way there is no way for us to help you now without more knowledge about why the car stalls, Devon could be right that it's fuel related IF you have a spark, but I believed that you've ruled it out to be ignition related, ma bad. But try to provoke the problem, get a spark tester as Devon sugested and let us know.
  18. I'm not telling you to replace it but try and see if you can messure it. It's not hard to replace at all, I swapped mine this wednesday in about 10 minutes, but I didn't have the splash shield in place. But your problem is most likely ignition related, so in short: Crank sensor Cam sensor ECU Ignitor Coilpack Plug wires Plugs That's the things I can think of as of now, except for the ignition switch and so on, so I'm thinking it has to be one of these parts. Have you checked out the WSM to see if there is a way to test or diagnose certain parts?
  19. If I remember correctly you can take the wheel off, and remove the splash shield. Should be possible to get to the crank sensor without taking the timing cover off.
  20. No way you can work on your car man? I miss the good old videos from you
  21. I believe it's BKR6E-11 that's the standard type for this engine, but I can't remember 100%. Either way I would run some BKR over ZRF due to the added thread lenght on the ZRF. I'm not sure f the coilpack has a built in ignitor or if it runs of a different setup, not very familiar with the coilpacks. But if it has one that could be the problem as it's very heat sensitive. The 93-97 v6 KL engine is known for having a weak ignitor, the heat makes it run bad or not at all. But since you have replaced it I don't think that's the problem. But in order for the coilpack to send out a spark to the plugs it needs a signal from the crank sensor and the cam sensor, I believe the ECU recieves those signals and resends a signal to the coilpack, have you tested the crank sensor and the cam sensor to be sure they are fully working?
  22. I'm not asking you to replace any parts without checking them to be sure they are bad, but spark plugs is one of the first things I would replace in a case like this as they should be replaced every year (And you never said when the last time was) Since it's heat sensitive, what brand of plugs do you normaly use? It can be as easy as being a cheap type that doesn't handle heat well. In my experience NGK is the only one who works. When the car stalls, have you checked if you get a spark out of the coilpack? Have you messured the primary and secondary sides of the coil? (Before and after it stalls) Have you checked that the ignitior gives the coilpack a signal so it knows when to send out a spark? The problem with something like this is that it's so hard to diagnose since the problem come and goes, so I would recommend you to do the basic check and work your way backwards.
  23. The problem is we have little to no information on your problem, except you claim it to be the same. "Stalling only in hot weather" is not much to go off. But fine, let's try to source your problem, that's the main reason we're here. You have replaced alot of different parts, but did you ever change out your plugs? Before you replaced any parts, did you check for any fault codes, and do you have any now? And what exactly happends when the car stalls? No spark? No Fuel? No Air? This is the first thing you should check up. And it only stalls when the weather is hot, so the engine temperature has nothing to do with it?
  24. This topic is a couple of years old I'd recommend you to make one of your own so it's easier to keep a track on the problem.
  25. Do the light shut off or are they still on as soon as you turn the key? My first guess is a bad connection on the terminals just like thewheelerZ said.