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Everything posted by FIS

  1. Hi. So I've done a lot of thinking before making this post as it's so often that the problem is super easy and as DjDevon3 says TEST TEST TEST, so as of now I've done as much as I can think of without getting closer to finding the problem. Ok, the problem is that my car, KLDE 93 mod does not get spark, it's already got the HEI mod and external coil (more info below) but it's not the problem. To start, the HEI is brand new Coil is measured and within spec Crank sensor is measured to 500 Ohm (Thinking it's ok since the range should be 520-580, and it's not the best multimeter) Tested and measured continuity on the "Ignition Relay" Checked fuses (and measured for continuity, all good) I recently did a KF distributor swap which was successful, but after the problem occurred I put my old dizzy back on and it has the same problem. Now, this is what I know. The KLDE has a crank sensor, the 93/94 has 2 (one is inside the distributor) and one cam sensor (inside the distributor). These sensors sends the ECU (or I believe the ECU gets the signal?) to calculate where the crank/cams are in order to send out a signal to the ignitor/ignition module so it can tell the coil to send out a spark. In my case since I have done the HEI mod I can easily tell if the ignition module/HEI is getting the signal and sending it to the coil, usually it receives it but doesn't send out a new one. BUT it does NOT receive any input signals from the ECU (or whatever it gets it from) so I can exclude both the HEI and the coil for being the problem. That leaves me with these options (and more I guess, these are the only one I can think of) Crank sensor at the crank (Which I measured) Crank sensor inside the distributor (Highly unlikely since it's the same for 2 different dizzy's) Cam sensor inside the distributor (Highly unlikely since it's the same for 2 different dizzy's) Relay(s) ECU I believe this is all I have for now, I'm just all out of clues on what it could be, or how to diagnose some more (no codes is stored either) ANY tips would be highly appreciated!
  2. See how I already pointed that out? How the hell would you know if you have a "complicated issue" or not when you haven't eliminated anything for being broken? If you have been working on Mazda's for 20 years I'd imagine your mechanical skills would be much higher. And swapping out from a 1.8l FP engine to a 2.5l KL isn't something that requires knowledge man, you even had a donor car to grab the parts from, it's basically just "remove old part, move new part from dono car and tighten" Requires a ton of skills man! I'm sorry but if you don't have some more skillshowing and relevant posts I would like to ask you to stop replying to this topic, I'm trying to fix my car, not argue.
  3. Exactly! And it's usualy the simpliest thing to cause the fault, which is why you start at the end (Plugs->Wires->Coil->And so on)
  4. White smoke, blown headgasket? Kinda hard to tell just based of a video.
  5. He has some aftermarket parts, but that's all I can think of atm.
  6. First of yes I can messure the crank sensor with a multimeter, but I can't test it without an oscilloscope. You're also saying that gooseboy78's statement where he says to work my way backwards isn't the best solution but instead claim to be working from the ignition switch through every ignition part instead is a better option? And then tell me to remove the HEI module which I've already claimed to be OK and not the problem due to my backwards testing just like gooseboy78 said. Sorry man but I find your experience to be missing some practical testing.
  7. Messured the crank sensor while cranking, got 496-505 ohm (messured with a digital multimeter) so I'm thinking the crank sensor is bad, ordering a new OEM one.
  8. ND28 on the forums here might be able to help you out, I know he had some for the 93-97 626'es.
  9. No worries, hope the information helps you, either way it's always neat to know :) Hatch and sedan are different and they offered both versions, for the GF I think the sedan loooks better, but for the GE the hatch wins everyday :D
  10. It could still be registred in March, but Zepticon's decoding shit has not been wrong yet so I still believe it's a 99. The car is a 6gen Hatchback (If you say hatch) It's also known as the 626 GF. 1840cc is correct (1.839) with 90HP (66kW) and 145Nm. Also known as the FP-DE engine. More information here:
  11. The only thing I can tell is that it's the GF chassi which was made as the 98-02 models. But according Zepticon's knowledge on how to decode the VIN makes it a 99 model, which I would asume it is. I also believe the 00-02 had some minor changes to the hood etc.
  12. It is running the KLDE ECU and VAF Not sure if there is a short circuit anywhere.
  13. Spark plugs are as brand new, same with leads. Distributor is also swapped in case the CAM/CRANK sensor was bad. Coil is also messured to be within specs. Fuses are all messured and inspected (multimeter) Battery is not even a year old, and recharged. I haven't looked at the key yet, but I asume the starter wouldn't turn if it was bad? Water should atleast be acceptable, not that long since I refilled it. I appreciate your tips, will check out the key and ignition switch.
  14. As said " (no codes is stored either) " last line. Crank sensor is messured to be OK, according to my knowledge.
  15. Most of the manuals are available over at
  16. I believe you either push the green and red part of the plastic, or drag them in order for the lines to get of, but I do believe you drag them at the same time as you drag the hose the other way, but I've never had a car with those so I can't tell for sure. As to test if it's getting power, there should be a plug somewhere close to the pump, DjDevon3 shows you how for his 95 in this video: 12:37 or so he shows the plug and how he does it. Hope this helps!
  17. Ohh, I've heard good things about the Elantra, but not as much for the Ford xD
  18. I remember wanting them headlights! :O
  19. The links seems to be "doubled", Xeno said he would fix it!
  20. The 98-02 KL engines has a coilpack and not a distributor.
  21. Post a picture of it. I would just asume the reason it's hard to get apart is because it's sealed and you create a vacuum inside, but if you work a bit with em they should pop out.
  22. First minute of the video shows you how to pull the inner part.
  23. So have you actually dissasembled them?