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About FIS

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  • Birthday August 7

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    1995 Mazda 626 2.5l V6 GT MTX

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  1. You should be able to find them here: 626 & MX-6/Work Shop Manuals/PDF/2001 US Wiring Diagram.pdf
  2. I would also vouch for the piston rings.
  3. Now I can't play the audio, but the timing belt tensioner is known for going bad and making a noise that increases with the RPM, but since you said the sound went away when pressing the clutch got me thinking, NickR could be right on that one.
  4. VERY HARD! So hard it's not worth it. Requires tons of cash, knowledge and patience. If you'd like to see a way of doing it, here's a thread about it.
  5. Just the IAC valve I would estimate to be about £40, international shipping is very expensive sadly "/ So RIP car, hope it will be back on and working. Best of luck!
  6. I see no reason to take it to an auto electrician as they know little to less, I know wiring and I'm very interested in electricity, automation and stuff related to that, which is why I got an education for both those, alongside with experience from fiberoptic and more. And I am absolutely sure that I don't have spark, I have a sparkplug that I use to test for spark (yes it's working) and there is no sign. I have been thinking about going back to an OEM distributor and ignition again, but I would most likely need a new wiring harness to do so, so I'm considering that option. And I have only guessed that certain parts could be bad, but I have tested them according to the wiring schematics I have and it all seem.
  7. I gotz an IAC on the part engine too :D Great info here Mike, so nice to have some more information on a hard to diagnose problem!
  8. IF you would like to keep a 626 as your main car, by one with an engine failure as you suggested and swap the engine over from your car. But the cheapest option I would guess would be to scrap your 626 and buy another car that works and runs problem free. Reman trans, and junkyard transmission would both be out of the question for me, unless it had actually been a manual one, but doing a manual swap kinda requires lots lf parts so a donor car would be nice to have, so it's kinda stupid to get one then.
  9. I'm tunning out of ideas, but I tell you what, I have a full 98/99 spare FS engine at my fathers garage (not mine but who cares :p) has most of the ignition related parts, Coilpack, cam sensor, crank sensor and more coolant sensors etc and I can happily provide you these for free, as long as you'll cover whatever the shipment to australia would be. You'll most likely and hopefully won't need any of those but it's an offer so you can decide. I can also be able to provide you with a ECU for a 98 manual and the matching key if you'd like to try a ECU swap, but the immobilizer can be a pain in the ass. But with the key I guess you're all good I would estimate the shipping to be about £65, but then again I've been wrong :D
  10. Plugs havent even ran 100km yet, leads even less! So those are all good. i think you're missing the problem, the coil, ignitor, plugs, plugwires are all good, there is something before the ignition module that causes my problem, but I don't know what
  11. Thanks for the tip, guess I forgot to mention that I've already tried that with no luck. The only thing I can think of now is a short in the harness somewhere "/
  12. Yeah but you only use the crank and cam sensors from the distributor to get a spark, and that's what I'm missing here, I can exclude the cap and rotor until I get a spark from the coil.
  13. Thanks for the tip but I've got 2 different distributors, they are both ok "/ Checked some more of the wiring, every wire seems to be as it should, will try to do some more voltage testing next.
  14. So I checked for continuity between the HEI module, cam sensor (or crank sensor inside disty) and ECU and they are all good. Will check for continuity between the crank sensor and the ECU next, but I'm really loosing it
  15. Shouldn't be any problem as it's basically just an engine swap, the ECU and harness and everything ignition related would still be as before.