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About Rotated6_2

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  • Car
    1979 CB2 S1 626 2.0 Auto 1980 CB2 S1 626 13B 5sp 1978 LA4 S1 929L 2.0L Auto

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  • Location
    Creswick, Victoria. Australia
  • Interests
    Old school Mazdas, Swimming, bike riding, motor racing

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  1. Hello.

    I need mazda 626 seats, how can i buy?

    1. Rotated6_2


      Hello mate.

      Can you tell me where you are first?



  2. Where the DOHC badge has been stuck, is where the 626 badge should be located. No unfortunately, there were no DOHC Mazda motors available at the time. The first true DOHC motor B6 1600 came out in the 1985 BF Familia GTX and it was FWD. You US guys also missed out on the flush front because of the "standardise the headlights" rule to make them easily replaceable all over the US. Australia did not receive the front fender mirrors as these were deemed a potential hazard in frontal impacts with pedestrians. This video of the genuine S2 626 Capella sales brochure is what you should be looking at for styling cues. I would happily sacrifice my left nut to obtain the wood grain steering wheel, wood grain gear knob and wood grain centre fascia. These are true "Unicorn" options!
  3. My two and my stepsons' at Classic Japan in December! Leaving home: At the show: Heading home. Fuel stop for the RX626!
  4. And another.
  6. I have an S1 coupe sitting in the wings waiting for some love. Previous owner wanted to try and fit an RB30 into it without thinking how to do it properly. Cut the top radiator support to stuff the motor in from the front, then gave up. I bought it with standard rims. Missing the front guard . Interior needs love. If you are interested let me know. I am not in a hurry to get rid of it, so I'm not giving it away.
  7. Don't butcher an S1......they're getting too hard to find. Don't care if you put a V8 in an S2. But if you must............
  8. They come up occasionally. Don't expect any change from around $750 for a 24 spline centre. If you are going to go to the trouble of building a diff, find an old B1800/B2000 diff and modify that to suit. You will need to modify the brake drums back to 4 stud pattern from 6 stud configuration. Then you can use any of the Mazda 4WD diff centres in your housing - lower ratios and LSD, from factory!
  9. Search and ye shall find! Here you go, Dr Robert. Brand new!!!! Do you guys have this brand over there?
  10. Pedal time: Again, you do not need to replace the entire pedal box, all your require are the pedals, pivot bolt, clutch master push rod, and the clutch pedal return spring, which, is exactly the same as the brake pedal return spring. 1. Release the original pivot bolt and nut, and remove/discard. The manual pedal pivot bolt is 200mm long. 2. Remove the brake pedal spring, then remove the circlip and pin from the end of the brake master rod clevis. Remove the brake pedal and bin it!!!! 3. Remove the cover plate from the firewall, where the clutch master cylinder mounts to. The holes are already there. Once you have removed that plate, there is nothing stopping you from mounting the clutch master to the firewall. 4. Fit the manual brake pedal, then the support spacer, then your clutch pedal and refit the locknut and washer. Make sure the clutch pushrod is aligned with the clutch master. 4.1 Swear and curse time when refitting the brake and clutch pedal return springs. I find if you use some soft wire/rod like TIG filler rod, you can wrap that around the spring and it allows you some leverage when stretching and installling the springs back onto the pedals. All going well, you will now have 3 pedals!
  11. Makes it nice and easy if you have a 5sp sitting there ready to go! Make sure you have the other crucial parts sitting there as well! New clutch master cylinder, clutch slave cylinder, clutch assembly and spigot bearing. Otherwise, this can add a great deal of time to your conversion, waiting for parts to arrive. Install new spigot bearing and then fit the manual flywheel to the rear of the crankshaft. Fit your clutch assembly. I use a 1/2" drive extension and 10mm socket as my clutch aligning tool - never fails, and is the perfect length! Bit of artistic license here, I didn't take a pic doing my 626, but here is a shot of my son's HB 929 fitting up an Exedy HD clutch, AND, the clutch was aligned using my "never fail" tool! Do not forget to fit the shifter fork and throwout bearing, otherwise Baby Jesus will cry!
  12. Now young Doctor Robert, thank you for your extraordinary patience. I am having a bad run with health at the moment! I believe these are the little suckers you are after?! They're tricky little buggers to get out!
  13. Interior time: 1. Remove the T bar handle by loosening the lock nut below it, then screw the T handle off with the lock nut. 2. Remove the 2 screws holding the trim piece that covers in the handbrake lever and VERY CAREFULLY, spread the outer edges of the centre console to unclip it. You force it, you will crack one or both! 3. Remove the 2 screws at the rear of the centre console in the flip lid storage compartment, and the 2 screws at the front of the centre console on either side. Disconnect the illumination light and then remove the centre console. Now you will see this. You are looking at the switch that controls starting in Park/Neutral, and the reverse lights. 4. Back outside underneath, release the linkage holding the T bar shifter to the selector linkages. 5. Remove the retaining screws and disconnect the 4 Pin plug. Then remove the shifter assembly. 6. Jack under the auto tranny to support it - they're a heavy little sucker. Wriggle it free from the back of the block and.........Voila!!!!
  14. I am assuming most guys contemplating this conversion have some mechanical expertise, so I will not go into the absolute nitty gritty of removing the auto box, just keep it simple. 1. Disconnect the auto cooling lines to the radiator. 1.1 Remove the bolts holding the auto cooling pipe steel lines to the block. If you completely disconnect them from the auto, you will drop tranny fluid everywhere! 1.2 Disconnect the high tension lead from the starter motor 1.3 Disconnect the 2 bolts holding the driveshaft centre support bearing, then the 4 bolts holding the driveshaft to the differential. Leave the driveshaft sitting in the back of the gearbox. 1.4 Disconnect the exhaust mounting brackets from the rear of the transmission and the bell housing. 1.5 Remove all the bolts from around the bellhousing. 1.6 Remove the steel vacuum line from the inlet manifold to the side of the auto. 1.7 Release and remove the lower inspection plate, and remove the 4 torque converter retaining bolts. (Sorry about the crappy pic!)
  15. For any of you guys who have contemplated this conversion, here it is. Hardware required: 1. Manual transmission 2. Clutch Master 3. Clutch Slave 4. Steel pipe and hose from clutch master to clutch slave 5. Complete Clutch Kit 6. Flywheel 7. Clutch and brake pedals with the longer pivot bolt, clutch pedal return spring, spacer and clutch push rod OR a complete pedal box(if you wish) 8. Gearstick, gearstick rubber insulation boots, console mounting bracket, centre console surround with outer boot. The Little Things - that catch you out! 1. Gearbox cross member (5 speed), studs with rubber mounts and retaining washers (auto boxes are hard mounted to the floor pan) Interestingly, the 4 speeds use the same gearbox crossmember as the auto. 2. Flywheel spigot/pilot/input shaft bearing (depending on what part of the world you live in)- P/No 6202 RS or ZZ 3. Flywheel retaining bolts - the auto ones are longer. 4. Brake/Clutch fluid 5. Gearbox oil 6. Wiring - for the reverse lights 7. Cable ties - to replace the tricky Mazda firewall triple pipe clamps as opposed to the double pipe clamps standard on the auto. 8. 5/16" fuel line and 2 hose clamps 9. Clutch slave push rod Things you don't need: 1. Starter motor - they are the same auto or manual (Thank God!) 2. Drive shaft - as above.