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sumdoode last won the day on October 26 2018

sumdoode had the most liked content!

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About sumdoode

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    1988 Mazda 626 DX MTX, 1988 Mazda 626GT MTX

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  1. Good luck. I have an 88 I’m am currently parting out if you need a hard to get part
  2. That single green connector that is circled on red is what you need to ground, put a wire from that green connector to either the battery negative or just about any piece of unpainted metal under the hood and turn the key on. The CEL will start flashing inside of there are codes stored on the engines computer.
  3. Jump this one to ground. Apologies for making a mess out of the thread.
  4. It is a single green wire. All you have to do is connect it to ground turn the ignition on (not start) and the light will flash.
  5. Hey I know this was weeks ago I haven’t been on in a while... yes you have to remove the spindle nut. You need to pry up the locking nuts where they were punched they loosen counterclock wise, they are not self locking nuts as you discribed but do need to be punched with a screwdriver or something to lock them. I have reused the spindle nuts but only a couple times. the whole drum should slide off if not there should be a small spring behind the backing plate you can manipulate to loose the shoes. if you are replacing the shoes and drums you will need to press the bearings and wheel studs out
  6. hey I took the interior pieces off of the hatch to repair a crack...I noticed that if the hatch light wasent plugged into the harness my lock switch dident work
  7. Why bore it if it’s not needed though? Then you will need new pistons and have to pay a machine shop. Fix the leaks and see how far it takes you
  8. Oh I see, youre taking a page out of my book....”if it ain’t broke, fix it till it’s broke” if you are in fact willing to take a working engine out, take it all apart, put it back together, reinstall the engine then I say go for it. Machine work isent cheap and if you take the long block to a machine shop it could cost up to $2000 to have them do the whole job. You should get very fimilar with the factory work shop manual. It’s a big task especially for someone who never done it. Rebuilding an engine is rebuilding an engine. Not much differs. Research how an engine works and the comp
  9. Haha sorry that’s wasent my intention lol. I had to double check myself to make sure I knew wat I was talking about.
  10. Oh I think your mixing them up. A G trans came in an N/A and the H trans came in the turbo
  11. You need to figure out why the engine failed. First step is getting the engine out and making sure the block is good. A machine shop can magna flux it and make sure it’s not cracked. You need to measure all the crank journals and make sure they are in spec, if not you will need to have the crank grinded and fitted with oversized bearings. If the block must be bored you need new pistons to match the new bore... new rings. rod and main bearings. A head gasket set. The head will need to be milled and at the minimal you should do valve seals. All the specs are in the work shop manual. I hope That
  12. You got a h-trans just laying around? I converted my gt to manual transmission already but have suspicion the input shaft bearing is on its way out. Edit lol realized that wasent by the OP
  13. My grandfather bought my 1st 626 brand new and it is a great car. My first car. I still drive it daily. I was extremely lucky to find a 626 turbo hatch in excellent condition. You could change the fifth gear fork with the trans on the car. You should check out mx6dotcom and the ford probe sites aswell. This one is not so active with our gen 626s but if you dident know those three cars use the same power Tran
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