Jump to content
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


CMontcalm last won the day on February 1

CMontcalm had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About CMontcalm

  • Rank
    Junior Member

Previous Fields

  • Car

Profile Information

  • Location
  1. Problem Background. So, a while back I got hit on the front left fender and my left turn signal was annihilated. There wasn't much left except part of the signal plug. I bought an after market part, the fit was perfect. Sadly though, something was amiss. When I turn on the lights the left signal turns on bright. When I signal left side the signal blinks dim. So I believe that I received a right side socket with my left side housing. Sadly it is side specific as the connector has a latch. I failed in my due diligence and I didn't mess with things or report it when I should have. I was busy and lazy then. So I don't feel like I have the right to bother the seller to try to get it replaced. I looked up the part on a few locations and it seems to sell for ~$15 USD. Thats about half what I paid for the housing. On to my question. ***EDIT*** I forgot to mention the cost of the shipping is also $15 USD... yay, maybe the Mazda dealership the next town over, none locally, will have it and won't rip me off. ***EDIT OVER*** Question. A) Do you thing its possible to pop the pins on the signal socket connector and re-pin the socket connector to the match the wrong part. B) should I cut and splice the wires to fit the wrong part. or C) should I accept my failure and buy the correct signal socket?
  2. Thank you for the info, gives me more things to check other than the relay. If I wanted to get to the climate control electronics in the dash to check the button switch, do I need to remove the main dash bezel like you explain in this post? http://mazda626.net/topic/40092-ac-wont-turn-off/?hl=defogger#entry323518
  3. Hello, I am having a problem with my rear window defogger. Short story: Rear window defogger/defroster will not shut off. Long story with details: I was driving to work today and my rear window was foggy. turned on my defogger and continued on to work. The window seemed to defog just fine. I noticed it was still on when I was about half way to work, which is odd as it usually turns itself off. I hit the button again and it refused to shut off. When I got to work this morning I turned the car off and back on. The defogger light went off as I expected when the car was off but came back on as soon as the engine started. Other details: I am assuming that the rear window defogger is working a I didn't have any viewing problems after about 5 minutes of driving but I haven't actually confirmed this. There is damage to the main vertical element about two thirds the way up the rear window. This damage is not new. It has been their since I bought the car. This issue seems unrelated due to the amount of time that damage has been there, > 5 years, and the first time this problem occurred, about an hour ago. Questions: Anyone have any clues as to what would do this, My first, and really only, guess is a bad relay or the dashboard switch. Also, am I right is assuming that the rear window defogger is not drawing current from the battery while the car is off? Any questions or comments can help. Thanks!
  4. Yup, that is exactly what it was. Ty for the info. I got the car to stop overheating around my neighborhood and I took it for a spin around town. Highest speed limit was only 45 but the temp gauge stayed just under half way the whole trip, after warming up. It was a nice hot 90+ degree day too. The interlock cable still likes to stick, ill have to figure out a way to lubricate it and see if that works better. I just put a screw driver in my glove box so I can pop the shifter column top off and push the interlock in manually. Not that big of a deal. My mazda ran fine though. I am excited to have it back on the road, even without AC.
  5. Thanks djdevon3, I knew i had done this before i just had a hard time remembering. The rod the green line is the rod that sticks and will not let me move the key to lock. I had to pull the shifter cover off, reach in and push it forwards. I just got a thermostat for my car, I am going to put that in either today or tomorrow and hopefully that will complete my car and get my mazda on the road again. I will have to figure this interlock rod out but it will not keep me off the road.
  6. I was going to add a post with the picture of the part of the shifter that wasnt letting the key free but I couldnt get the forum to use my photo. I got a not allowed to use that extension error. If i figure it out ill edit this post and post the image.
  7. I got the key out. Nothing worked but I searched the forums and my wife googled the issue and we came up with a solution about some type of interlock switch. Here is the thread i found. http://mazda626.net/topic/43011-key-stuck-in-ignition-1999-626/ I dont know if the switch is bad though. I ended up opening the shifter column and pushing the bar that must go to the switch. Then i tried with my other key, non factory copy, and it did the same thing. The bar does not go forward when I put the car in park. Anyone know how to fix this? Now my only apparent problem is my overheating issue. I saw a post on diagnosing overheating issues on another thread in this forum I am going to read up on.
  8. Also, sorry for taking so long to reply. I fell through my glass storm door yesterday.
  9. Thank you all for your suggestions. I tried all that I could. Nothing worked but it seemed electrical so I started at my battery with my meter. It ended up being q bit odd. The terminals on my new battery were about a half a mm smaller in diameter and my cable terminals were a little loose. I only noticed cause the positive popped off while I was testing everything. So I fixed that and my car started right up. I took it for a test drive and it started overheating immediately. Also, the factory key will not come out of the ignition. I checked to make sure it was firmly in part and I wiggled the steering wheel a bit and it still would not come out. After the engine cooled off I drove it back home and I still couldn't get the key out. I replaced the water pump when I was replacing the timing belt and pullies. I measured exactly the amount of coolant I removed and refilled that amount into the radiator. There are no obvious leaks. Anyone have any ideas?
  10. I'll check the battery but it is brand new. I got it yesterday. I was using my old backup key. It isn't a factory key. I'll try that too.
  11. Hello, I finished putting a new timing belt and new pullies on my 2002 Mazda 626 fs. The car is still on jack stands. I had the door open, as I didn't want to climb into a car on jack stands. The only light on was the door ajar light. I put the key in and moved it to on and everything came up fine. I turned the key to start and everything died, no crank or anything. Afterwards with the key back in on the dash has a fast beeping sound and the door light was flashing with the same frequency as the beeping. I checked the connectors on the ps pump, the crank pos sensor connector and the camshaft sensor and they were all connected. Those are the only connectors i remember pulling off to change the timing belt and pullies. I have no idea what is wrong at this point. Anyone have any ideas?
  12. I am replacing my timing belt tensioner pulley and i swear i had a pic of its orientation but i cannot find it. Does anyone have a picture of where the tension spring eye is on the tensioner pulley.I know the thing points up i just dont know what direction. It also seems to rotate and i thought i have it bolted to torq specs, is this normal?
  13. Wise, similar to the crank pulley video. I'll see if I can orchestrate this. Thanks.
  14. Well, I thought that the crank pulley was going to be an issue, borrowed a guys impact gun and popped that off after 10 minutes of abusing my father-in-law's baby air compressor. I am assuming that someone else has pulled the water pump pulley off before cause they are definitely not to torque spec. I was trying to loosen one and couldn't budge it. I saw on a post that it is easier if the drive belt is still on, so i re-installed my drive belt. I then tried to break the water pump bolts loose again and i started to turn the crank. Anyone have an idea of how to loosen these bolts. If it wasn't so tight in the compartment i could get a socket on there but its too close to the sidewall.
  • Create New...