Jump to content
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by RacerX

  1. Try going to one of the online Mazda part houses and look up the part number. It's likely not available from the factory anymore. But, I've had reasonable luck searching part numbers on ebay and finding NOS parts there.
  2. Don't sweat the 17's. They have redeeming qualities too. You sacrifice some acceleration for better grip and higher corner speeds. You'll want to get your brakes dialed in so you get consistent friction and modulation. Late braking and faster corner entry speed will become more important. What size wheels were you running before? We switched from 14" wheels to 17" wheels after a couple races and it was noticeable. The 17" wheels actually improved our lap times on an open track. However since we sacrificed some acceleration, race day required a little more strategy to manage traffic and maintain fast lap times.
  3. I ran poly bushings up front. It stiffened things up a little. But honestly, it didn't make much difference to the grip. The biggest difference is they lasted longer. I never bothered swapping them out. I can't remember how many races they ran, at least 5 or 6. Previously when I ran fresh LCA's with factory bushings they would last 2-3 races before the bushings got little mushy and the steering felt a little more vague. I agree with WheelerZ, 15" wheel setup would be optimum for the platform. The Speed6 brake setup was very nice but overkill. A standard 6 setup or even the 98+ 626 brake setup would work fine as long as you can find good pads for it. I'm a Hawk brakes guy. But, everyone has their favorite brand/pad compound.
  4. Here's some more tips. Check your rear lower lateral arms. If they are not boxed (just pressed U-channel) like mine were, you can get stiffer boxed ones with fresh bushings from Rock Auto. Check out the part numbers below. Notice they have a plate welded across the bottom of the u-channel to stiffen them up. My 626 didn't have that originally. MEVOTECH CMS76146 {#GD7A28650A, MS76146} Supreme; Rear Left Lower Rearward; Lateral Arm MEVOTECH CMS76147 {#GD7A28600A, MS76147} Supreme; Rear Right Lower Rearward; Lateral Arm I also used https://www.king6fab.com/ trailing arms and the adjustable forward lateral arms. I didn't use their rear lateral arms because I didn't like the flexy swaybar links that are required. Both are stiffer than the original units and come with stiffer bushings. The adjustable forward lateral arms will let you dial in a little extra negative camber. But to be honest, I don't think that really made a big diff. The difference with these parts was pretty subtle. On the front end, I elongated the upper strut mount holes and rotated the strut mounts to maximize the negative camber. That combined with 1"-2" lower springs will give you about -2.5 degrees camber. That made a difference. The front felt a little more planted and the tire wear improved noticeably. I experimented with offset camber bolts. That was a failure. Do not use those. Under race conditions they obviously rotated and gouged the lower strut mounts and really screwed up with the handling.
  5. Rmlunsford, don't over think it. The factory suspension geometry of 626/Probe platform is a great starting point. The cheap Megan lower springs and Sachs Super Touring struts worked great on the 626 in my original configuration. They lowered the car about an inch or inch and half and stiffened things up some. The car was very balanced. The setup was still soft enough that a 17.5mm AWR rear sway bar helped the car rotate nicely. I replaced the front struts after 5-6 races when I noticed excessive rebound on corner exit. The stiffer springs are a little hard on the oem style struts. I also raced WheelerZ's car before it got totaled. He had a even stiffer coil over setup. It worked well too. I am not sure what rear sway bar he was running. But, as stiff as the coil-overs were I'm not sure it was as important. The car felt fairly balanced. His setup lowered the car about 1"-2" all the way around. Surprisingly, the best "suspension" mod I have experienced for this chassis is adding a limit slip differential to the transmission. I am not sure if the Probe GT already has one. If not, you should figure out how to get one. In the case of the 2.0L motor, I installed a factory MazdaSpeed Protege LSD. Once I installed that, the car had excellent response to throttle input mid turn. If the back end was stepping out, I could give it more throttle to bring it back in. If the front was pushing, lifting a little on the throttle brought the rear around. It worked great with the suspension setup I mentioned above. WheelerZ's car didn't have a LSD and I could feel the difference. His car pushed more mid turn and wasn't as responsive to the throttle. It took significant throttle input to get it to behave mid-turn when you were pushing it hard. Are you guys still racing here in Texas? What series are you racing?
  6. It's basically the cost of buying another car with the same motor and a manual transmission, buying some of the wear items new/rebuilt (clutch, pressure plate, axles, etc), and the time to swap out all the applicable parts (transmission, ECU's, pedals, shifter, linkages, etc), and scrap the rest of the other car. You'd be better off finding another car with your motor and a manual transmission, buy it, and sell your car. If you do it right, you could break even or make a couple bucks.
  7. Very nice write up with pics. I did this for my car a couple years ago. It didn't go quite a smooth for me. I ended up having to replace one of the hubs. Had to pick up a junkyard part. I couldn't find one new.
  8. I love the new car. Lighten it and stiffen it the best you can and take it racing. You already know all the tricks to make that happen.
  9. Congrats on the impressive finish. It's even more impressive given the quick pit work you had to do after the contact. The motor is definitely stronger than ever. Those meater tires would have been too much for the old motor setup. It obviously pulls harder than before, and you proved a Mazda FS motor can handle the extra revs. That car now has trophies in LeMons, WRL, and Chump The chassis and rear bar are definitely stiff enough to tripod the car at turn in under braking. We saw that diving into "the bitch" at Hallett Motor Circuit too. The gauge setup looks great and I'm sure everything is more visible than those LED gauges. The idiot lights are perfect. Also, the Hydromat proved to be everything it promised. Nice job with that setup. I always wanted to try it, but never got around to that modification. BTW, we saw the exact same thing regarding fuel mileage. When drivers used second gear to keep revs up, it didn't make much difference in lap times but it did make a noticeable difference in fuel mileage. You mention installing an oil cooler. What were oil temps like during the race? Did the water temps stay reasonable all day?
  10. Something like this would be a cost effective way to get back on the track. https://www.racingjunk.com/24-Hours-of-LeMons-Cars-for-Sale/182910766/1989-Honda-Civic-.html?page=2&categoryId=4520&offset=10&from=category
  11. Just got back from vacation and saw the latest update and pics. That was a scary hard hit. I am glad to hear the driver is alright. Coming home with that crumpled heap after all the work to date has got to feel a bit overwhelming. I am sure you'll find a way to get back on the track. You've been bit by the bug already. No turning back now. Buying an already built car is a very cost effective way to get back on the track, even if it's just a chassis and you need to replace motor and suspension. But, you'll probably have to give up on the 626. Not many of those properly race prepped up for sale.
  12. I'm high and dry here in Dallas. I got the heck out of Houston last week before the weather got bad. I commute between Dallas and Houston these days. Dallas is technically home, but I keep a my camping trailer down in Houston and stay there when I'm working there. I know better than to ride out a hurricane in an RV park :-) No telling if I'll find my trailer in the same condition I left it in last week though. I installed the digital gauges to minimize the wild variety numbers new drivers read off over the radio. I'd get numbers varying more that 20 degrees depending on the driver. But, I was a bit disappointed by the visibility of those digital gauges. They had a lot of glare and low contrast. Relocating them might have helped some. But, I didn't bother. I'm not surprised you chose to replace them. Analog gauges with idiot lights was another consideration. That's a good setup for arrive and drive racers too. Absolute accuracy wasn't the priority as long as the values are relative. They were and we could tell when things were going good or bad. I think there were three different temp sensors on the coolant manifold. One for the ECU, and old one from the previous gauge, and the new one. So, no telling how it got wired up. To be honest, what does better accuracy really buy you in the end? What temp, pressure, or voltage are you going to call a driver in preemptively? We learned that you will drive the car as long as it's driveable. After all this is LeMons, Chump, or WRL. It's a cheap motor/transmission. Drive it as long as you can and fix it before the next race weekend.
  13. Before you tell me how much power my setup was making, read the 69 pages of this thread. I've run far more engine/part combos than the original 115hp '93 hydraulic lifter motor. In fact, your FS-ZE is not the first one in that car. I bet I've even posted those same old dyno charts before. I ran the original hydraulic lifter motor for the first several races. Later I updated to a 98+ 626 solid lifter based motor. Those motors were rated at 130hp from the factory (w/FSD7 cams). This one came out of a very nicely built Probe I bought and parted out. That motor had a professionally ported and decked head, stainless oversize valves, Eabach valve springs, port matched 626 intake, solid lifters, FSH9 intake cam, FSD7 exhaust cam, under drive pulley, light weight flywheel, and balanced rotating assembly with K1 rods and Wiseco pistons. I ran it like that with the factory ECU for a couple races and then upgraded to custom ground Crower cams with the adjustable cam gears and went back to hydraulic lifters. I played with the cam timing on that setup and figured out how to move the power band around. I then updated the ECU to the Microsquirt. At that point, the car was making very good power. I played with the tune from race to race. Tweaking fuel and adding more ignition advance in the low and mid range. At that point, I am confident it was making around 140 hp peak power at the crank @5000-5200 rpm. That lower end always had problems with low oil pressure and I could never figure it out. Eventually about two weeks before our next race, I noticed that one of the oil jets was broken. That obviously explained the chronically low pressure. So, I swapped the ported head with Crower cams onto the '93 lower end with the forged crank. I even dialed back the cam timing a little to let is rev out a little more. But, when I put the head on the block the locating dowel that helps position the head gasket pressed all the way into the head. This allowed the gasket to slip a few hundredths of an inch. The 3rd cylinder piston began hitting the gasket ever so slightly. The motor only lasted a couple hours on the track before the rocking induced by the contact with the head gasket locked the piston in the cylinder and punch the rod through the side of the block :-( At that point, I decided to see if I could locate a decent FS-ZE. Most the JDM crap they try to sell you is a MPV mini van motor. I pulled the valve covers off 10 motors before I found a true FS-ZE. The oil in the head was a little roasty looking. But it turned over fine, it had no slop in the crank thrust, and it rotated smoothly. I dropped it in and took it to the track to test. Sadly it had been over heated and blown a head gasket before it was pulled from the car in Japan. I took it back to the shop and I pulled the head off and took it to a local head machine shop. I looked through their inventory of rebuilt heads and cores and discovered the USDM Protege FS-DE head has the same casting number. So I had them rebuild one of those and deck it to the max. Before I re-assembled the car I inspected the pistons and confirmed they had a higher dome than the USDM pistons. But, I noticed there was a little scuffing and rust in the number three cylinder. Probably a result from the overheating event. But it cleaned up easily and the piston seemed snug in the bore with no unusual rocking. This motor was so tight and clean it couldn't have had more than 30K miles on it. So, I decided to risk it. I installed the FSH9 intake cam and Cork Sport FSH9 profile exhaust cam, set the advance to 4 degrees on each (given the milling on the head I figured this was closer to 3 degrees advance), installed hydraulic lifters to see what they did to limit the top end, bolted it all back together, and took it to the track. That combo was very healthy. It was making a little more power than the previous FS-DE setup, the cam timing had the power coming in nice and low and the lifters had the power tapering off around 6k rpm. Sadly, the motor didn't survive the test session. It developed a rod knock pretty quickly and poked the #3 rod through the block. Apparently that overheating in Japan hurt it worse than I thought. I decided I'd had enough playing with FS-?E engines. It was time for a new challenge. That's how I ended up with the Integra. The motor in the car when you got it, was bought sight unseen out of Craigslist. If I recall it was a hydraulic lifter motor out of a '96 626. I cleaned it up, freshened the paint, installed a rebuilt oil pump and water pump, installed a new timing belt and cover, installed the FSH9 cams, bolted it into the car, hacked up a Protege header, and started it up. It too had a blown head gasket. I probably ran the autotune on the fuel map while the car sat in the garage. But, I didn't modify it by hand and I didn't touch the ignition curve. I was done messing with the car. I already had a B18A1 Integra waiting to roll into the shop. I sold the 626 to the first guy willing to give me $1000 for it, the safety equipment, and all the spares. So yes, I am very confident that I raced a motor setup making 140 hp at the crank and that FS-ZE was making a little more, but I didn't get a chance to qualify it. Given the porting, milling, balanced Wiseco pistons, under drive pulley, cams, ignition curve tweaks, tuned header, and free flow exhaust I would have to be an idiot if I could not squeeze an extra 7% horse power out of a motor. Your setup makes more peak power, I'll give you that without even driving it. The pro tune certainly helps. But, you are revving the snot out of a motor with a 92 mm stroke to do it. Mazda did make a motor combo that peaked at 6800 rpm. But, they only built and sold that motor in a single sporty Protege model for the Japanese market. Every other car, including the Protege 5 and the MazdaSpeed Protege Turbo, utilizing that lower end made peak power at 6K or lower. That's how I came to my decision to keep the power band below 6K. Just because the factory made one model of car that peaks at 6800 doesn't mean it will run all day WOT at those kinda of rpms. Just ask a Honda racer. One thing this motor has on the Honda motors is it's not an open deck design. So, it's easier on head gaskets (if you keep the locating dowel in the right place, and temps appropriate). Besides, the FS-DE has a 92 mm stroke. It's a torque monster. So I built just that. Notice in our videos, we never used 2nd gear in even the tightest corners. Speaking of lugging the motor, I still suggest wiring up the solenoid for those intake buttery fly valves. There's an output available on the microsquirt. I did some research a few years ago and they opened them around 4500 rpm. That means they will boost your torque/power in that critical 3000-4500 range. If you aren't dropping that low coming out of some of the tighter turns on the track, you are really thrashing on that motor and transmission. I don't remember how much ignition advance I was running. But, I am pretty sure it was more than 17 degrees at peak torque (about 5K rpm). I do remember it was 12 degrees at idle. I left the fuel map fatter at WOT as well. I don't remember exactly. I bet it was more like 13.2-13.3. It was really rich at part throttle and idle sometimes. It depended if I bothered to clean it up after running the initial auto tune after swapping heads/motors/etc. I didn't cut fuel on decel. But, I did advance the ignition noticeably. That was a very cool trick I learned somewhere. It slowed the motor decel a little and eliminated stalling when you chopped the throttle harshly with the clutch in.
  14. RacerX

    who to do speedo ?

    Now that you know how to remove it and install it. Try the local Junkyard. Keep the receipt. Return it and and try another if it doesn't work. Any junkyard worth doing business with will warrant their parts.
  15. BTW, those rear calipers have been on the car for a few years now. If in doubt, maybe it's time to put the fresh spares on the car.
  16. WheelerZ, did you ever figure out what was causing the right rear lockup under braking at the Glenn? I wonder if InActiv is bumping into the same thing. I noticed a little twitch in the car under braking in Inactiv's video from the testing. That was never a problem before. It looks similar to the twitch your car developed when the right rear started locking up under braking.
  17. There's not much difference between the FS-ZE and the motors I ran. It's the same cam profiles, bore, stroke, spindly rods, forged crank, etc. The difference is solely intake and pistons (10.5:1 vs 9.0:1). Since you haven't hooked up the VICS solenoid on the intake, I assume it's skewed toward high rpm power. The dyno chart above seems to support that. I had advanced the cams about 4 degrees, choose to use the '93 FS-DE intake, gave it a fat fuel curve, and setup a reasonable ignition curve with more low to mid rpm ignition advance than factory that then flatten out around 5K rpm. The motor woke up around 3500 rpm, peaked about 5000 rpm, and started to sign off after about 5500 rpm. We shifted at 5400 to 5500 rpm. I had the rev limiter in the MicroSquirt set at 5900 rpm. Having raced a completely factory setup with the factory ECU for 8+ races. I can definitely say the motor was making a little more than the 130 hp factory power. I assumed we were pushing 140 hp at the crank. So if you change the cam and ignition timing (FS-ZE cam gears + professional tune) to spin the motor 21% faster (1.2K more rpm) at peak power, that's 21% more air and fuel. Thus you can expect about 21% more power. Let's round that down to about 18% more power due to losses from inefficient head/valve passages. That turns 140 hp into about 165 hp. Now add another 5-7 hp for the extra compression and another 5-10 hp for a professional dyno tune and that gives you about 175 - 182 hp at the crank. That's about 150 - 156 hp at the wheels if you factor in power loss through the drive train. More RPM equals more power. I'm feeling better about my seat of the pants dyno tune I was running before I sold the car :-) For all I know, the motor could run all weekend long pushing 6500 rpm at each shift point. WheelerZ pushes his V6 KL-DE there all weekend. But, that motor is significantly over-square with a shorter stroke (74 mm vs 92 mm). So piston acceleration is much lower. Here's a great audio comparison of the two different motor setups. Just listen to the motor at the 3rd to 4th gear shift point. https://youtu.be/9NvsRnMz5Ek?t=7m40s https://youtu.be/9RSHgGwhsF4?t=35s
  18. Thanks for the video post. Now, I have something to study to help learn the track before I come out and race with you guys next month. Is there a Friday practice day? Are you planning to have the car there for the team to get familiar with it and the track?
  19. Oh, good point. Now that you mention it. I think they were just 7". Sorry about that. Carry on.
  20. Yes. I ran Konig Zero-Ins with 45 offset on my '93.
  21. It's obvious where the power gains are. More revs equal more power. I setup up the cam timing to sacrifice that top end for more bottom end. That motor has an unusually long stroke. So, the piston speed/acceleration is high. I was too chicken to spin the motor that fast all weekend. A "touch of oversteer" sounds about right. I think you have the alignment set right. I set it up to rotate with some throttle modulation mid-turn. So, it's important to brake early and let the front wheels pull the car through the turn under power. Trail braking shouldn't be required and can get you into trouble. Also, if you lift abruptly mid-turn, you're likely to get passed by you own rear wheels. It's FWD, not a beastly RWD racer. When in doubt, gas it :-) Hmm, the rear brakes locking up first? That's new. Was this while the pads were hot or cool? Those HP+ pads on the rear have very high friction at cold temps and good friction at high temps (race temps). They are popular with the AX crowd. At race temps, the DTC-60's on the front start to grip much more and it balances out. If you are having trouble keeping temps in the front pads there at Sebring, you could try a different rear pad with a temp/friction curve more similar to the fronts. If this happened while the pads were hot, you might check the e-brake set screw on the rear calipers and make sure it's not clamping down and causing the pads to drag.
  22. Good to hear it ran so well. About 5 gallons an hour was what we were burning at race speeds too. So, it's consistent there. What RPMs did you and your teammates shift at? We rarely spun the motor more than about 5800 rpm. It liked to pull down low and didn't care much for a lot of revs. What did you think of the suspension, brakes, and tires? How about the ergos with the new seat? The cage is a little tight.
  23. Too bad, that crack must have happened in transport. I don't recall seeing it before. I highly recommend the electric defroster. 10x more effective than a blower, lighter, and simpler.
  • Create New...