• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

116 Excellent

1 Follower

About RacerX

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Previous Fields

  • Car
    1993 626 DX 2.0L w/5 spd

Recent Profile Visitors

1,897 profile views
  1. I know the ODBI version of the 626 in the US turns on the fans and leaves them on when you put the ECU in diagnostic mode using a jumper on the ECU diagnostic connector. Is it possible that your ECU is running in diagnostic mode?
  2. At this point, V6 626's are so cheap I'd just buy a V6 626 with all the options you want and drive that if you want a V6. If you need a car while you search for the right 626, put a 2.0L in your car and sell it.
  3. It's possible you have air trapped in the cooling system. When the engine is cool, I'll disconnect the small coolant line that runs from the coolant manifold on the back side of the head to the throttle body. This is the highest point in the cooling system. I'll hold it while someone else starts up the motor and press it back on the nipple when coolant starts to flow out. Then, I'll turn off the motor and re-tighten the hose clamp. But, it's more likely a warped heap and blown head gasket. If that's the case, I suggest getting a rebuilt head, or at least get your current head decked. The best way to confirm the head gasket is to do a compression test. You can rent the compression test tool from just about any auto parts store. Another way to diagnose a blown head gasket is to drain the engine oil and inspect it. If the gasket is blown, you will often (but not always) find coolant in the oil.
  4. It should be pretty easy to test MAP and TPS sensors with just a multi-meter. I know I have tested my TPS sensor. The resistance range should be published in the manual. You'll also need a vacuum pump test tool like the one below to test the MAP sensor. Check the factory manual for the testing procedures. I've never tested a MAF sensor. There might be a reasonable test for it too. But, I can see where generating a known amount of air flow would be difficult with the average mechanic's tools.
  5. 30W sounds a bit high. I bet it will be a fraction of that. I've wired something like this into my race car to power a GoPro camera. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/171550946078?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true
  6. My 626 never had ABS and I always had the power brake booster on the 626. But, the Speed6 brakes with the DTC-60 Hawks were very sensitive. Brake pedal pressures with that setup at track speeds and braking were lighter than pressures in Bonnie's Mini Cooper on the street. The Integra is running without a booster. Given how that works with much smaller rotors and pads front and back, I would definitely try the 626 without the booster. It's an easy test at the track, just disconnect the vacuum line to the booster, block it off to the intake, pump the brakes a couple times until they get stiff, and drive it around. It will feel a little weird at first. It takes a fair amount of pressure to bring a car to full stop from just 30 mph. But, it's very linear and controllable. Your team will get used to it pretty quickly. It would have avoided several flat spotted tires on the 626 with the monster Speed6 brakes. Hmm Maxxis tires, I'll have to look into those.
  7. Watched some of your dicing with the Miata before it got caught up with the 944 and Integra. That looked like a lot of fun. You two were running similar lap times despite the differences in power and handling. Those are the most fun. Watching and listening it's pretty obvious that the RS3's communicated really well. I may have to try them since they come in a bigger 225/45R15 than the 15" Direzzas.
  8. Ditch the ABS and power brake booster. The original transmission in our car had some chatter when we shifted between 3rd and 4th and vice versa because the syncros were worn. I assume the synthetic trans oil I ran the first race or two didn't help either. After about 4-5 races, 3rd gear eventually failed. The initial symptom was popping out of gear. Eventually it would not stay in 3rd gear at all. So a little chatter while shifting won't cause failure immediately, but it will fail eventually. Best to address it in the next race or two.
  9. Buy yourself one of these. https://www.mechanicstoolsandbits.com/2-0l-cam-pulley-holding-tool-for-probe-otc6468.html It makes lining up the cams easy. It's too late to share this now, but it's much easier to mark the old belt and the cam/crank gears with a white paint pen and transfer the marks to your new belt. You can literally count the teeth in the belt make sure they are the same. Like this.
  10. The rear lateral links from a '93 to '97 Ford Probe or '93 to '97 MX-6 will work as well. However, those should have the same part numbers. So, I doubt that actually widens your search.
  11. http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/mazda,1994,626,2.0l+l4,1189986,suspension,lateral+link,10414
  12. I love it. That's thinking outside the box.
  13. I strongly recommend against a JDM FS-ZE motor. My experience with a local JDM motor dealer and the engine he sold me was not good. First of all, 8 of the 10 motors he had on hand and claimed were FS-ZE motors were not actually FS-ZE's. They were FS motors from Japanese version of the MPV. Given their condition, I suspect they were from taxi cabs. I pulled the valve covers and checked the cam part numbers of each motor. The oil in every motor was burnt to a crisp. I should have left right then. However, I did find an honest FS-ZE motor with FSH9 intake cam. So, I bought and dropped into my race car. I took it to the track for some testing only to find out that the head gasket was blown. I then pulled the head and replaced the gasket. I did confirm that the motor had the higher compression 10:1 pistons and it was honestly a low mileage motor. But, cylinder #3 had some oxidation on the wall. I cleaned that up with some very light wet (cutting oil) sanding and a rag to collect the particles and put it all back together. I took the car to the track and the motor lasted 3 laps before it seized the #3 piston and threw a rod. Cylinder/piston #3 had obviously suffered in a previous overheating event before the motor was pulled and sold to some JDM dealer.
  14. This is a very good point. The valve shims for the FS-DE (I forget the diameter) are very difficult to find in a wide variety of thicknesses. I never found a satisfactory source. They are expensive and rather limited from Mazda and Ford as well. I agree with your suggestion to cut/grind the valve tip to maintain the clearance.
  15. I have no clue how they got those oil squirters out without drilling them. I wouldn't worry too much about aiming them precisely. It sounds like you have the clearance, that's the most important thing. That Protege motor would have been a good lower end to rebuild. It has a forged crank instead of the cast crank in your motor. Not a big deal since this motor isn't gonna make a lot of power anyway. It sounds like the motor is coming together pretty well. Good luck with it.