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About RacerX

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    1993 626 DX 2.0L w/5 spd

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  1. Before you tell me how much power my setup was making, read the 69 pages of this thread. I've run far more engine/part combos than the original 115hp '93 hydraulic lifter motor. In fact, your FS-ZE is not the first one in that car. I bet I've even posted those same old dyno charts before. I ran the original hydraulic lifter motor for the first several races. Later I updated to a 98+ 626 solid lifter based motor. Those motors were rated at 130hp from the factory (w/FSD7 cams). This one came out of a very nicely built Probe I bought and parted out. That motor had a professionally ported and decked head, stainless oversize valves, Eabach valve springs, port matched 626 intake, solid lifters, FSH9 intake cam, FSD7 exhaust cam, under drive pulley, light weight flywheel, and balanced rotating assembly with K1 rods and Wiseco pistons. I ran it like that with the factory ECU for a couple races and then upgraded to custom ground Crower cams with the adjustable cam gears and went back to hydraulic lifters. I played with the cam timing on that setup and figured out how to move the power band around. I then updated the ECU to the Microsquirt. At that point, the car was making very good power. I played with the tune from race to race. Tweaking fuel and adding more ignition advance in the low and mid range. At that point, I am confident it was making around 140 hp peak power at the crank @5000-5200 rpm. That lower end always had problems with low oil pressure and I could never figure it out. Eventually about two weeks before our next race, I noticed that one of the oil jets was broken. That obviously explained the chronically low pressure. So, I swapped the ported head with Crower cams onto the '93 lower end with the forged crank. I even dialed back the cam timing a little to let is rev out a little more. But, when I put the head on the block the locating dowel that helps position the head gasket pressed all the way into the head. This allowed the gasket to slip a few hundredths of an inch. The 3rd cylinder piston began hitting the gasket ever so slightly. The motor only lasted a couple hours on the track before the rocking induced by the contact with the head gasket locked the piston in the cylinder and punch the rod through the side of the block :-( At that point, I decided to see if I could locate a decent FS-ZE. Most the JDM crap they try to sell you is a MPV mini van motor. I pulled the valve covers off 10 motors before I found a true FS-ZE. The oil in the head was a little roasty looking. But it turned over fine, it had no slop in the crank thrust, and it rotated smoothly. I dropped it in and took it to the track to test. Sadly it had been over heated and blown a head gasket before it was pulled from the car in Japan. I took it back to the shop and I pulled the head off and took it to a local head machine shop. I looked through their inventory of rebuilt heads and cores and discovered the USDM Protege FS-DE head has the same casting number. So I had them rebuild one of those and deck it to the max. Before I re-assembled the car I inspected the pistons and confirmed they had a higher dome than the USDM pistons. But, I noticed there was a little scuffing and rust in the number three cylinder. Probably a result from the overheating event. But it cleaned up easily and the piston seemed snug in the bore with no unusual rocking. This motor was so tight and clean it couldn't have had more than 30K miles on it. So, I decided to risk it. I installed the FSH9 intake cam and Cork Sport FSH9 profile exhaust cam, set the advance to 4 degrees on each (given the milling on the head I figured this was closer to 3 degrees advance), installed hydraulic lifters to see what they did to limit the top end, bolted it all back together, and took it to the track. That combo was very healthy. It was making a little more power than the previous FS-DE setup, the cam timing had the power coming in nice and low and the lifters had the power tapering off around 6k rpm. Sadly, the motor didn't survive the test session. It developed a rod knock pretty quickly and poked the #3 rod through the block. Apparently that overheating in Japan hurt it worse than I thought. I decided I'd had enough playing with FS-?E engines. It was time for a new challenge. That's how I ended up with the Integra. The motor in the car when you got it, was bought sight unseen out of Craigslist. If I recall it was a hydraulic lifter motor out of a '96 626. I cleaned it up, freshened the paint, installed a rebuilt oil pump and water pump, installed a new timing belt and cover, installed the FSH9 cams, bolted it into the car, hacked up a Protege header, and started it up. It too had a blown head gasket. I probably ran the autotune on the fuel map while the car sat in the garage. But, I didn't modify it by hand and I didn't touch the ignition curve. I was done messing with the car. I already had a B18A1 Integra waiting to roll into the shop. I sold the 626 to the first guy willing to give me $1000 for it, the safety equipment, and all the spares. So yes, I am very confident that I raced a motor setup making 140 hp at the crank and that FS-ZE was making a little more, but I didn't get a chance to qualify it. Given the porting, milling, balanced Wiseco pistons, under drive pulley, cams, ignition curve tweaks, tuned header, and free flow exhaust I would have to be an idiot if I could not squeeze an extra 7% horse power out of a motor. Your setup makes more peak power, I'll give you that without even driving it. The pro tune certainly helps. But, you are revving the snot out of a motor with a 92 mm stroke to do it. Mazda did make a motor combo that peaked at 6800 rpm. But, they only built and sold that motor in a single sporty Protege model for the Japanese market. Every other car, including the Protege 5 and the MazdaSpeed Protege Turbo, utilizing that lower end made peak power at 6K or lower. That's how I came to my decision to keep the power band below 6K. Just because the factory made one model of car that peaks at 6800 doesn't mean it will run all day WOT at those kinda of rpms. Just ask a Honda racer. One thing this motor has on the Honda motors is it's not an open deck design. So, it's easier on head gaskets (if you keep the locating dowel in the right place, and temps appropriate). Besides, the FS-DE has a 92 mm stroke. It's a torque monster. So I built just that. Notice in our videos, we never used 2nd gear in even the tightest corners. Speaking of lugging the motor, I still suggest wiring up the solenoid for those intake buttery fly valves. There's an output available on the microsquirt. I did some research a few years ago and they opened them around 4500 rpm. That means they will boost your torque/power in that critical 3000-4500 range. If you aren't dropping that low coming out of some of the tighter turns on the track, you are really thrashing on that motor and transmission. I don't remember how much ignition advance I was running. But, I am pretty sure it was more than 17 degrees at peak torque (about 5K rpm). I do remember it was 12 degrees at idle. I left the fuel map fatter at WOT as well. I don't remember exactly. I bet it was more like 13.2-13.3. It was really rich at part throttle and idle sometimes. It depended if I bothered to clean it up after running the initial auto tune after swapping heads/motors/etc. I didn't cut fuel on decel. But, I did advance the ignition noticeably. That was a very cool trick I learned somewhere. It slowed the motor decel a little and eliminated stalling when you chopped the throttle harshly with the clutch in.
  2. Now that you know how to remove it and install it. Try the local Junkyard. Keep the receipt. Return it and and try another if it doesn't work. Any junkyard worth doing business with will warrant their parts.
  3. BTW, those rear calipers have been on the car for a few years now. If in doubt, maybe it's time to put the fresh spares on the car.
  4. WheelerZ, did you ever figure out what was causing the right rear lockup under braking at the Glenn? I wonder if InActiv is bumping into the same thing. I noticed a little twitch in the car under braking in Inactiv's video from the testing. That was never a problem before. It looks similar to the twitch your car developed when the right rear started locking up under braking.
  5. There's not much difference between the FS-ZE and the motors I ran. It's the same cam profiles, bore, stroke, spindly rods, forged crank, etc. The difference is solely intake and pistons (10.5:1 vs 9.0:1). Since you haven't hooked up the VICS solenoid on the intake, I assume it's skewed toward high rpm power. The dyno chart above seems to support that. I had advanced the cams about 4 degrees, choose to use the '93 FS-DE intake, gave it a fat fuel curve, and setup a reasonable ignition curve with more low to mid rpm ignition advance than factory that then flatten out around 5K rpm. The motor woke up around 3500 rpm, peaked about 5000 rpm, and started to sign off after about 5500 rpm. We shifted at 5400 to 5500 rpm. I had the rev limiter in the MicroSquirt set at 5900 rpm. Having raced a completely factory setup with the factory ECU for 8+ races. I can definitely say the motor was making a little more than the 130 hp factory power. I assumed we were pushing 140 hp at the crank. So if you change the cam and ignition timing (FS-ZE cam gears + professional tune) to spin the motor 21% faster (1.2K more rpm) at peak power, that's 21% more air and fuel. Thus you can expect about 21% more power. Let's round that down to about 18% more power due to losses from inefficient head/valve passages. That turns 140 hp into about 165 hp. Now add another 5-7 hp for the extra compression and another 5-10 hp for a professional dyno tune and that gives you about 175 - 182 hp at the crank. That's about 150 - 156 hp at the wheels if you factor in power loss through the drive train. More RPM equals more power. I'm feeling better about my seat of the pants dyno tune I was running before I sold the car :-) For all I know, the motor could run all weekend long pushing 6500 rpm at each shift point. WheelerZ pushes his V6 KL-DE there all weekend. But, that motor is significantly over-square with a shorter stroke (74 mm vs 92 mm). So piston acceleration is much lower. Here's a great audio comparison of the two different motor setups. Just listen to the motor at the 3rd to 4th gear shift point. https://youtu.be/9NvsRnMz5Ek?t=7m40s https://youtu.be/9RSHgGwhsF4?t=35s
  6. Thanks for the video post. Now, I have something to study to help learn the track before I come out and race with you guys next month. Is there a Friday practice day? Are you planning to have the car there for the team to get familiar with it and the track?
  7. Oh, good point. Now that you mention it. I think they were just 7". Sorry about that. Carry on.
  8. Yes. I ran Konig Zero-Ins with 45 offset on my '93.
  9. It's obvious where the power gains are. More revs equal more power. I setup up the cam timing to sacrifice that top end for more bottom end. That motor has an unusually long stroke. So, the piston speed/acceleration is high. I was too chicken to spin the motor that fast all weekend. A "touch of oversteer" sounds about right. I think you have the alignment set right. I set it up to rotate with some throttle modulation mid-turn. So, it's important to brake early and let the front wheels pull the car through the turn under power. Trail braking shouldn't be required and can get you into trouble. Also, if you lift abruptly mid-turn, you're likely to get passed by you own rear wheels. It's FWD, not a beastly RWD racer. When in doubt, gas it :-) Hmm, the rear brakes locking up first? That's new. Was this while the pads were hot or cool? Those HP+ pads on the rear have very high friction at cold temps and good friction at high temps (race temps). They are popular with the AX crowd. At race temps, the DTC-60's on the front start to grip much more and it balances out. If you are having trouble keeping temps in the front pads there at Sebring, you could try a different rear pad with a temp/friction curve more similar to the fronts. If this happened while the pads were hot, you might check the e-brake set screw on the rear calipers and make sure it's not clamping down and causing the pads to drag.
  10. Good to hear it ran so well. About 5 gallons an hour was what we were burning at race speeds too. So, it's consistent there. What RPMs did you and your teammates shift at? We rarely spun the motor more than about 5800 rpm. It liked to pull down low and didn't care much for a lot of revs. What did you think of the suspension, brakes, and tires? How about the ergos with the new seat? The cage is a little tight.
  11. Too bad, that crack must have happened in transport. I don't recall seeing it before. I highly recommend the electric defroster. 10x more effective than a blower, lighter, and simpler.
  12. Why the new windshield? Does Chump red flag races when rain comes through? You replaced a very fresh windshield with the ultimate cheater device for rain races. Visibility was never a problem in the muggiest heaviest rain with the defroster. Between that, the LSD, and the torquey nature of the motor we were often one of the fastest cars on the track when rain blew through.
  13. Wow, your car looks great! Here's my '93 626 with the Megan lowering springs on 17" Konig Zero-in and 17" factory Millenia wheels. 17" wheels and lower profile tires will make that drop look even better.
  14. If you ever run it in WRL, tell Joey (WRL owner/big wig/head honcho) it's the same (yellow) 626 John and Bonnie raced in Texas before we bought his Integra. He'll run you in GP4 (there's now 4 classes). BTW, GP4 in WRL is crazy fast. So that's not buying you a lot ;-) We've really enjoyed racing with WRL. Bonnie even got some screen time in their "Come Race with Us" promo video at Joey's request. http://www.racewrl.com/
  15. The monster Speed6 rotors and meaty calipers disipate heat very efficiently. The surface area is massive for a car that size/weight. No need to get heroic. There really isn't a lot of room for hosing down there. There is however, plenty of room for air to flow through the opened space for the driving lights, directing it right at the back of the wheel. To improve air flow more, drill or slot the rear fender behind the wheel. That will let the hot air out more effectively. The car has been driven in a couple true 24 hour races, it has a couple LeMons top 10s overall, and a couple WRL GP3 trophies (including a first). So, it's been driven hard and neither the motor nor the brakes suffered any heat related issues in the configuration as your received it. Now, the original 14" steel wheels and '93 626 calipers/rotors were a different story all together.