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bluemaru

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About bluemaru

  • Rank
    Junior Member

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  • Car
    2001 Mazda 626 LX V6, Automatic

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  • MSN
    bluemaru@msn.com
  • Skype
    cbluemaru, bluemaru

Profile Information

  • Location
    Ventura County, California, USA
  1. Thanks so much - the vacuum tube with the white dot is going to the manifold near the front of the engine.
  2. djdevon3: Here are photos of the part I'm talking about in Q2. I also attached a Mazda diagram for reference. The first 2 photos are taken from the passenger side fender. The last photo is taken from the driver's side fender. For reference, the part with the white square on it is the MAP Sensor. It's obviously hard to see the Boost Senor underneath the MAP Sensor. The auto repair shop diagnostic equipment picked up continuity issues in both of these parts: the Boost Solenoid Valve and the other solenoid related to fuel regulation. And the parts were located on the c
  3. Understanding of this problem found: I had some valuable input from a friend who understands how to read the smog test results. I'm closer to getting this issue worked out For those who may use this info in the future. a. The CO2 and O2 gas percentages on the smog test results were good, indicating that there are likely not any engine problems contributing to the failed smog. b. All of percentages/ numbers for HC (hydrocarbons), CO (carbon monoxide) and NOx (Nitrous Oxide) gases were high. All three being high indicates that it is likely a catalytic converter problem contributi
  4. I thought I would pass Smog because I corrected my P0400 and P0106 problems and all diagnostic test systems showed as passing with a code reader, but Smog Testing didn't pass due to high HC and high NOx. The CEL is not on and there are no diagnostic codes pending. HC (PPM) 15 mph - 130 ppm (should be 4 to 55 ppm) 25 mph - 96 ppm (should be 4 to 39 ppm) NOx 15 mph - 1053 ppm (should be 27 - 437 ppm) 25 mph - 560 ppm (should be 26 - 724 ppm) Very disappointed and hoping those of you who have dealt with this can help me ferret out the problems in the most efficient way.
  5. I'm doing my best to verify if hoses are connected to the correct places. I'm working on the P0400 problem and want to know how the hoses for the charcoal canister hook-up. I understand the hose coming from the very middle of the canister is the Purge Solenoid side and the hose slightly offset toward the outside perimeter is the Charcoal part of the canister. 1. Logic tells me that the hose in the middle (the purge solenoid side) should hook up to the Purge Solenoid Valve (which I believe is located on the side of the air filter box, according the EGR System Parts Location diagrams. I
  6. This might be a subject for another topic, but related (for me) to the valve cover. I've been constantly trying to find a P0400 issue and wonder if the leaking valve cover, and camshaft cap could cause a problem with the EVAP system. I believe the Purge Control Valve (PCV) is on the Left-side valve cover?
  7. Thanks everyone - from the perspective of sitting in the car, imagining all the belts and pulleys facing the radiator (which is the best way for me to think of it, with my limited, and maybe dangerous knowledge) - it is the left side valve cover gasket that I need and will order. The conversation is much appreciated!
  8. Hmmm - ok, let me pose my question from this perspective. The valve cover I want to change is the one with the coils on the end, which are closer to the driver's side of the car. Does that gasket have more of a bulbish or rounded contour on the end, not being flat on each end? I definitely, don't want to go through the hassle of ordering wrong side. At this time I can't ask the person helping me to do both sides, because, the side of the engine near the firewall, I believe is probably very difficult to do.
  9. Thanks - the front (closest to the radiator) is my reference. And I believe you all are saying it is the "right" side of the engine.
  10. I'm looking now to buy a valve cover gasket. They are sold as left and right side gaskets. Which bank is the right side and which is the left. I'm assuming the front bay is left, but want to be sure. Thanks.
  11. Thanks djdevon3 - I understand do understand you're talking from your own experience and that this is a complicated system. When you're talking about the "EGR," do you mean the EGR Boost Sensor?
  12. We took more readings as you see below: Pin C (Grey/Red) wire shows 4.98 V at all times under all conditions. (Car on or off/ vacuum on or no vacuum). Pin A (Yellow/Blue) shows 2.50 V with the engine running or not running, and shows the same 2.50 V under 7.8 inHg vacuum engine running or not. There is no change on either Pin A or Pin C during all of the test. Pin A is always 2.50 V and Pin C is always 4.98 V. That would be great, if you ever have the time, to do a video on this.
  13. Hi djdevon3 - thanks for the info. We didn't measure the wires leading to the boost sensor, but the contacts on the boost sensor itself. It seems like that wasn't the correct way of doing it. Does the info I provided have any value in this case?
  14. Hi All, I've been working on my emissions problem issue, when able, for quite a while now. I think I've been able to clear the P0400 code. The next issue I've come up with now is a P0106 code. Which, I believe is the EGR Boost Sensor/ MAP Sensor (measures barometric pressure). (diagram attached below) With the help of a friend with a multimeter, we've tested the Boost/MAP Sensor according the to Mazda Manual EGR System Specs, sent to me. (specs attached below) I didn't have a breakout box, so didn't do that part but, we did measure the voltage under vacuum. Without vacuum the
  15. Thanks guys - for the response. Didn't realize I had any responses. He eventually, figured out his problem with the help of a friend.
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