e-dub

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About e-dub

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  • Car
    1987,Mazda,2.0t,manual
  1. Mazda 626 GT
  2. Name: Mazda 626 GT (1987) Date Added: 21 March 2016 - 03:11 PM Owner: e-dub Short Description: None Provided View Vehicle
  3. Thanks for looking! I'll check ebay, last time I searched I came up with nothing.
  4. One of mine is broken. Need a replacement. https://goo.gl/photos/F23SyKmq2zPT16kt8
  5. Car has a straight thru exhaust I made with a magnaflow muffler, straight intake with cone filter. Stock turbo. After driving it around some more I've noticed it goes from mid 10's afr, to dangerously lean up top(after about 4300 rpm) at around mid 13's afr. The ecu receives the airflow meter (door type) signal to determine fuel output I believe. I'm thinking the fuel pump can't keep up with demand and losing pressure.
  6. What kind of AFR's are you guys seeing on the stock fuel system in boost? I just hooked up a wideband O2 meter to my 87' 626 gt and I'm at mid 10's afr, seems a little too much on the rich side. Thats on about 10 psi, spiking to 15psi.
  7. If it hasn't been mentioned..seals, door seals, sunroof seals, hatch seals etc..
  8. trying to determine if other alternators from later Mazda's physically fit the GC, I'm wanting something with a higher output I believe the alt. on mine is only 65 amps. any help is appreciated thanks!
  9. should give you a lot more options if you have 5 lug wheels.
  10. Just curious to see if anyone has fitted different oem wheels from other cars or aftermarket wheels on their GC's. I know the factory wheels for my GC turbo is 4x114.3, but what is the offset? I was thinking of getting some old 280zx wheels and trying those to keep with the 80's style of the GC.
  11. I just finished cutting out cancer and welding in patch panels in the drivers rear shock tower on mine. Was a time consuming job but I learned a lot. In this pic of yours, if you follow that seam between the wheel well and rear quarter panel join to the top of the shock tower that is where the water comes in from tire splashing and accumulates. So you will also have to seal that seam probably from inside the wheel well.
  12. Went start it again today and it didn't start, so I had the wife crank it while I moved the wire bundle and connector going into the knock sensor. Bam it started so I think I narrowed it down to a loose connector. If the connector was angled down in anyway it wouldn't start, so I zip tied it up to keep a good connection.
  13. Update: I banged on the knock controller module on the firewall and it started..wtf. Seems as if it may be the problem, but still not positive. When it doesn't want to start the tach will not bounce while cranking, but when it does start the tach needle bounces while cranking looking at the Haynes manual schematic the knock controller is wired into the distributor and the tach signal.. I also checked the volts at the coil like you mentioned chief and have 12v.
  14. So I'm not getting any spark from the coil plug wire. I measure zero volts at the coil. The car was running great and the next day would not start. The starter is strong and engine turns over great. I have fuel, I can jumper the check connector and the fuel pump kicks on. Messing with it one day I hit the ignition switch with a mallet and got it fired up, so I replaced the ignition switch with a new one and now it still won't start. Some things I have replaced with new parts: -Cap -Rotor -Plug wires -Coil -Ignition control module(inside distributor) -Ignition switch(voltage checks good at switch) -checked all fuses and even replaced the main 80amp fuse with a new one I'm kinda frustrated and need some suggestions that I can try, maybe there is a relay or something that I'm missing. The Haynes manuals electrical diagrams aren't helping me much. Thanks