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About McAnic_Chad

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 09/23/1985

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  1. I just replaced my timing belt in January of 2013 with this Rock Auto part, http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3002526&cc=1190056 when my tensioner went out. It appears that the new belt has either melted or disintegrated. I can't understand what would make it go bad so prematurely. I haven't taken the entire timing cover off so I can't see if it is actually broken, but from the top it looks like it is stll wrapped around the cam gear but has no teeth. I've never seen anything like this before. Since the old belt wasn't bad, and I only replaced it because I thought it would be good pratice to replace the belt with the tensioner, I planed on putting it back on temporarily so that I can at least get my car back home. Will I need to remove the tensioner to replace the belt only? Will I have to replace the tensioner? Is there a way to retract the piston in the tensioner cylinder without damaging it? I really don't want to have to do this repair all over again, but I'd hate to replace a tensioner that is just a little ove a year old all do to a faulty belt. Any feedback will be greatly appreciated.
  2. I pulled codes for the fuel pressure regulator solenoid and my O2 sensors. I think that the junkyard distributor I bought is a dud. I have all the spare disty parts but I can't break any of the screws loose to take off the igniter or the coil (I have 2 spare of each from the HEI mod attempt) and my old disty is all taken apart except for 1 stubborn screw in the coil that is stripped. I needed all of the parts that I bought (rotor button, plugs, wires, fuel filter) because they hadn't been replaced in years. So I don't feel as if there was any waste. BUT, after I changed the plugs I checked for spark again and it was weak and fading. I really don't think it's a fuel issue, I tried the starting fluid & nothing changed. I didn't have any "typical" symptoms of fuel pump failure, but this car has never done anything "typical" compared to others I've owned and/or worked on.
  3. Being that I have a manual, how do I jump the pins in my diagnosis box to run that fuel pump test?
  4. Ok, I changed the fuel filter and before I installed the new one, I cranked the engine to make sure the pump was at least sendind gas to the motor, it was... A tremendous amount of fuel sprayed like a jet stream from the line that goes to the inlet on the filter. I assume this means the pump is good although it didn't pump until the engine was cranking. Just put new wires on and checked for spark, spark looks good. I don't want to keep spending money, my plugs are kind of old, I could replace them but I've never seen or heard of bad plugs causing a no start all of a sudden... It still will not start and I don't know where else to look. I'd buy the pressure gauge but I am not sure where to hook it on these cars, and as I stated, the fuel line sprayed tremendously so I'm leaning towards it not being the pump.. I'm not sure what my problem could be.
  5. I went to advance auto just now for a pressure gauge and he told me to start with replacing the fuel filter. As far as the fuel pump goes, I did run out of gas the day before the no start issue. I could have a bad pump. Will I NEED to check pressure??? & if so, how much should I be getting from the pump?
  6. I'm getting spark for sure. I smell fuel when I try to start it a few times. I didn't have any spark from the old disty but the new one is putting out a nice powerful flash.
  7. So, I woke up Thursday and it didn't start. I've been down that road before so I figured It was the coil or the crank sensor. I went and pulled a disty from a '02 melinia and threw it in along with a brand new crank sensor. NO START. I thought it was a spark toning issue but it turns out that there is only one way to instal the disty and rotor button, so it'll only go on the PROPER way. I have no idea why I can't get this thing to run.. Any assistance people?
  8. Check your crank pulley. When the rubber starts to wear the pulley will wobble causing the little wavy teeth that send a signal to the crank sensor to misalign and & throw the sensor off. This will not give you a CEL because the sensor itself is still working but causing the car to stall because it's not getting a good signal. That crank sensor is completely dependent on the crank pulley's position and condition. I replaced mine and my car has run smooth and strong since.. (That is of course when everything else is working properly)
  9. I must have.. I went and bought a used starter after this post.. I noticed that some, but not all, instrument lights were missing when switched to the ON possition.. The new starter would only engage while bench testing... Eventually I hooked my jumper cables to the negative batt lead and straight to the block... it cranked right up and all lights lit before starting... HAS TO BE A BAD GROUND!!! wasted hundreds of $$ today but I was concerned about my starter and battery so at least they have been replaced, even though the starter is used... Question is, where is the main ground to the block? I just want to get a new wire and make a new ground and leave the existing one as is...
  10. I noticed that my 4 year old battery was getting weak, & negative terminal had a bad connection (to the point the crimp was loose and the negative ground wire would actually slip out while driving leaving the battery disconnected on the negative side) After a while I would feel the car lose a tad bit of power (but not stall) while driving and the tachometer would read outlandishly. I replaced that negative terminal and that stopped... Then the battery died, I charged it, and the car started and ran fine once again. This morning the battery died again and the car wouldn't even start with a good fast push and a clutch pop. It wouldn't turn over on it's own either.(I had lights and radio, windows ect) I got a jump from a guy and it turned over but so slow that it didn't start. I gave up and bought a brand new battery, at first it wouldn't turn over so I cleaned the positive terminal and it started up like a champ. I let it run for about 5 mins but as soon as I went to pick up speed, the tach went all crazy again and it died... Turned right back over and started again, so I parked it and let it run. I turned on the heater and the tach went crazy again... I turned it off and it went back to normal... I turned on the heater and headlights, another wild tach show... I gave up AGAIN and bought another terminal for the positive side, it started and gave me the same results. I tried to drive it again and it died and will not turn over. (I still have lights & other ACC) what in the world could this BEEEEEEE???? There and no lights lit on the dash.
  11. RockAuto has a "clutch kit" that has a bearing in it, not sure exactly which one it is, or even how many there actually are in the clutch mechanism itself. I've never replaced a clutch before. The clutch itself feels like it is grabbing good, it doesn't slip but my theory is, "Take it apart once, fix all that's inside & never have to take it apart again". I guess I'll be doing a full clutch and flywheel replacement. I just don't want to replace the wrong thing or replace everything that comes in the "clutch kit" and find out that there is a part that didn't come with it that needs to be replaced. Sounds like you have pulled that tranny off at least once before.. Is that a pain in the tail? How will I go about inspecting the clutch parts once I get it off? I have no idea what the clutch arm is or where it is. Once I get the motivation to remove the tranny, I'll lubricate it like you said. I'll try and find a way to post a video of the sounds I'm getting so you can tell me if it sounds similar to my problem. By the way, I go all the way to the floor to shift, so if the seal in the master doesn't blow while doing that, I'm sure it won't while the bleeder is open, keep in mind that there should be a small gap between the pin and the inside of the cylinder so that there is SOME play in the clutch. That gap is to keep you from sending the piston in the master too far.
  12. I replaced my slave cylinder about 4 weeks ago (replaced master last Oct.) and the day I did it I noticed that the clutch was making an unusual squeaking sound when engaged, but if I just rested my foot on it it would go away. I adjusted the pin on the pedal and the squeaking stopped. Last night on my way home from work the squeaking returned MUCH LOUDER and was accompanied by a whirling grinding sound when the pedal was pressed in. I could still drive until I got a few blocks from home, that's when the fell to the floor & I could feel a rapid pulse in it. It did and still does return on it's own and the cylinders are both new and not leaking. when the car is not running the clutch feels normal. when I start it, it feels spongy and it has pulsation in it. There is still a grinding sound when I disengage it and a squeak when it is engaged... What could this be? I've never had this problem with any other clutch before so I'm lost...
  13. My drivers side rear brake caliper won't slide off the pin. It was hard to pivot in order to replace the pads, after the pads were replaced, the caliper started leaking so I needed to replace it. I assume that it is rusted onto the pin at the bottom of the bracket. I sprayed some PB blaster on the pin itself where it slides into the caliper. I really need to be back on the road, I'd hate to have to go buy a caliper bracket as well. If all else fails, I'll go back to the junk yard and buy the bracket too. if any one has had any problems like this before I'd like some advice on how you got it off. Thanks.
  14. There is a guide pin at the bottom of the caliper, I assume it is stuck or something because I can't pivot the piston any further... My guess is that it's rusty or something.. I'll keep fighting it until I get it off I just don't want to break anything...
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