vtails

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About vtails

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    Junior Member

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  • Car
    1999 Mazda 626 LX 2.0L ATX 2002 626 LX 2.0L ATX

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  • Location
    ETn USA
  • Interests
    Airline' &Corporate pilot,Airframe & PowerPlant mechanic Restore old aircraft Slot cars Repairing Electronic's & Avionics
  1. I saw this one on Ebay and asked.the person some question about it since it says that it supports all OBD protocols which is a bit misleading I asked if it supported HS (STD) MS AND SW but I had talked to someone on Ford Truarus forum and he had this same scan tool and said it didn't support the MS (Newer Ford) and had to mod it with the switch and cutting the wires on OBD connector 6&14 and 3&11 which I had read about at the Forscan forums. They had a diagram of how to put switch and wires. They had told me about the OBDLINK MX and that it supported HS MS AND SW so that's why I went with, it's more money compared to the ELM327 but it had some nicer features like the power saver mode but that it was only supported on Android and PC for the MX model. I wanted something small since my NGS is a monster to drag out and a bit clumsy to use and it only has2-4 lines of info you can read. How does the Forscan work for you, can it shut down individual injectors and do some of the dealer type scanning? I had looked at Scan link but it seemed a bit pricey at $120.00 for main program and then $90.00 for the Mazda add-on.
  2. I have a ? You said something about using forscan what scan to are you using for For scan software. I was going to buy one of the ELM327 but instead I have ordered a OBDLINK MX BLUETOOTH but I also have a NGS with all Ford and Mazda cards with key coders. But just curios what everyone is using for scan S/W.
  3. I have been at work so I came Home and took Dash out to get wire colors so everyone with a 99 626 would have where they should go to(in case plugs were cut out) Also the second color is for Scorshe plug. Big plug with release button top(Reference) I'll start with top row wire's Blue with Black stripe goes to Gray Blue with Yellow stripe goes to White Red goes to Orange with White stripe Blue with Yellow stripe goes to Yellow Blue with White stripe goes to Red Bottom Row Blue Orange stripe goes to Gray Black stripe Red with Black stripe goes to White with Black stripe Gray goes to Orange Yellow with Red stripe goes to Blue SMALL PLUG RELEASE BUTTON ON TOP( THIS IS FOR REAR SPEAKERS) Green with Black stripe goes to Green ( this is the only wire in top row) BOTTOM ROW Yellow with Green stripe goes to Purple with Black stripe Green goes to Purple Green with Orange stripe goes to Green with Black stripe Refer to the pic of the Scorshe Chart in above post, the colors for new plug from Scorshe are industry standards for most if not all new aftermarket stereo's . So using the stock Mazda colors matched to Scorshe aftermarket plug you'll know where the wire goes and what it does,( I did have issue's with the light dimmer,there's 3 in aftermarket plug) and I never got it correct ... So this was real easy for me since the Mazda Scorshe plug color's matched the same color's on Scorshe plug to my aftermarket Radio(FORD FACTORY RADIO) Funny I don't have any CD's but I have a lot of cassette's ,even funnier I still have the 4 track player and 8 track player I had in High School and yes there was a 4 track player before 8 track's, 4 tracks didn't have a capstan wheel the 8 track had capstan wheel built into the tape itself , a bit of History from the last Century . I was looking around at Google Android head's that you can put in and I think they would fit perfect in the space (Double Din ) and you can hack root them and add some great feature's granted they are a bit pricey but I'd like to have one with TV DVD player but an older one would be cost effective, just to see if if I liked it. Also the last post I made about the light dimmer might have been wrong so I'll try and Edit it. I HOPE THIS HELPS ALL should be close on 98-02 just check color's to Pic's above.
  4. I think I got it , It's for light dimmer and you can check , Turn on light's get your multi meter out and check for voltage (also check with key on first before you turn lights on) With lights on use your dimmer switch and watch Vcc it will be lower than 12volts and will go up and down when you move the dimmer. But still think that getting plug from junkyard is a good Idea and really it makes getting the adapter plug from Scocshe easy to wire up as the wire's are standard in color on the adapter plug to the industry... meaning that they would match up in color on the stereo you are installing (aftermarket) if it's a Factory stereo then it be a bit harder but if you buy the adapter for Factory stereo as I did makes life simple I got my adapter plugs from Volunteer stereo in Knoxville Tn , so I just drove over and piked them up after I ordered them on ebay , I put the adapter number in other post. Sorry for confusion it's been a while ,
  5. Here's what I found www.modifiedlife.Com look for your car. But best easy way would go to junkyard get the plugs wire them in, then buy the adapter for radio from scosche and also plug for radio you want to put in. What I found was that there were so many different ways to go, is your radio a FMS OR ? If you get plugs it would really make things simple. But Scosche has a number if you need to ask ? 800-363-4490 EXT 3 for wire color , Mazda kit MA02B.
  6. I'm sorry I've been at work and I carry a Old flip phone so company can't text me ! . I got the package back out and I was looking for this wire but they don't show this one. Here's what I know the other plug is for rear speakers ?, I can't remember if that was for all speakers, I would look at my radio but the way I installed it it's a job to get the radio out. I also did a lot of research to find wires. I did find a good site but can't remember name but it did have complete list. If you use DVM see if it has power key off then on and how many Vcc. If 12vcc powers radio or if it has very little power it's for light dimmer. You have to check all wires with key on and off . It's been a while so I don't rely know but I'll look around see if I find so new here for you to look at. .
  7. This is late but I put up a post here a few year's ago I had only 1 key for my 99 626 and I can't find the post I did so I will but the info up again and maybe one of the mod's can make this a sticky for all those that only have 1 key, I don't remember if this works if you have No key but a few facts, 1.) IT MUST BE A FACTORY KEY. YOU MUST BUY THE CODE WORD AND YOU'LL NEED SER.NO. FROM IMMOBILIZER EBAY IS WHERE I GOT MINE. READ THE DOC ALL THE WAY BEFORE YOU START AND THE FLASHING LITE MUST BE OFF WHEN SWITCHING THE KEY ON OFF. This is a fast pace on off of the key but it does the job. 626 KeyProgramming.docx
  8. I had a 2002 626 2.0L with these same injectors , I am curious if you have a pre-cat on yours meaning a cat right below your exhaust manifold ? as mine did and also had another cat right before the glass pack. I'm not sure why my 02 had this but I still have the exhaust system since my daughter totaled the car , I kept the engine and all that the cookie cutter would let me have in the backyard!! bu getting back to the issue you might want to check what the 02 has listed . I recently rebuilt my 99 626 2.0l engine and was going to install these injector's but found out that I couldn't because the fuel rail and injectors were shorter than what the 99 had and the fuel rail mounted different. I looked up on ebay and found a lot of injectors for sale that match what you have and you could call Rock auto and tell them what the issue is that you are finding with there listing . They might be able to get you the right parts. I was going to order some from them but the were rebuilt and I was looking for new parts for my 99 and they are different for 99 than your 98 which doesn't make sense to me, mine are big and fat and longer than yours are. I'd like to hear what you find out.
  9. It's been a while to answer to this thread, But I just did an engine for my 99 626 and I was fortunate to have a friend do all the machine work.It run's great but has some issues(600 miles since OH) I need to address, when cold it idles fine starts instantly but when it comes up to temp it has a rough idle like real rough and sometimes at idle in gear the engine will just stop for a second it doesn't die, but when I floor it it runs so good and it has a different sound to it, I think it's the head work that was done to it and it had a lot of changes from stock FS9. Getting back to the NGS, I still don't know how to use it, it has a card for D/L the ecu a guess is for new ECU, I'm wondering if you know of anyone that has made changes to ECU? . I think the sensors is my problem but the prices of buying OEM MAF or MAP TPS sensors is pretty expensive , but it's nice to have this unit it was costly to buy I got it from a Ford dealer that closed here,but I have a Windstar and a Taurus a Focus Mazda so I have a lot of fords . I think that i should have gotten a OTC or one of the others that are offered now as they do different cars .
  10. So I have 500 miles on it and it run's great it has more power in 2nd and 3rd, but the bottom end still is not as strong as I'd like, not sure what to use to get it going better, I think if it had a 5 speed it would do better. I don't feel the A/C turn on anymore, if you floor it from a light it does pull real hard though the gears and has a different sound to it now , if I am going to slow for the gear I am in and go to floor it, it will stumble once in a while I haven't done much to find it yet cause it's a PITA getting out the NGS scan tool it's so big and bulky,,,I have been looking at other scan tools. I will start swapping electrical parts see if it help's. It had a bad Oil leak so I thought the crank seal was the problem but after taking the timing belt off it was fine so I sealed the valve cover and still had the leak it was the aftermarket camshaft seals had the lip at the back of seal so I bought 2 from Mazda FS05-10-602A $26.00 , Looking at both seals you can see that the mazda seal had the sealing lip in the center of the seal as the aftermarket lip was at the back where the 45* angel is on camshaft, so buy dealer seals and save some grief. I am very happy with the rebuild I don't think you need to do as much machine work as mine had to get a reliable rebuild, I will buy some injector's and maybe a header L did buy some KYB strut's for front and back it needed them for a while now. But for now I think I'll put some miles on it see how it does.
  11. I lucked out My neighbor at the airpark had a friend over and he runs a machine shop for tool and die so he took my disk's and did them for me, so he did 9 for me I had a couple at .009 so I have them at .010 now so I'm good to go. I will start putting it in tomorrow. I did find the disk for a fair price at Goodson $16.99 4 to a pack all the same size but they just go to 3mm(.117) in the 27mm
  12. I was going to buy the disk holder but it won't work on my Neway valve cutter and it cost about $65.00 , need a stone valve machine to use it I thought about taking the head off but it took 2 weeks to get mazda head gasket. At this point I just need a few. I called a Race engine shop about doing the shims but he said it would kill the cams, I tried to tell him that you put the cut side down but he just didn't get it oh well. I should have thought about this before I put the head on but I forgot about this as I don't build car engines I do simple aircraft engines that haven't changed in a 100 years! They are big VW engines.
  13. I know the owner of one of the two shops in town and he doesn't do anything but small block Chevy and Ford's he's the one that gave me another FS9 head. The other shop is closed for a while his wife passd away. I've been looking on line I have only found one seller but they are 3.338mms which I can't use. I need about 8 different thicknesses, I've got the exhaust side but need to do intake and I might have 2-3 that will work so the number might be more like 5-6. I'll have do some work on it tomorrow. I'll get back to you. Sometimes small towns are nice but I have to go to kTown to get almost everything I need and that hasn't been good lately not even the big NAPA shop has anything. I have friends at the Ford dealer but they can't get them except 4 of the same size. The Mazda dealer here in town has to order every part I've bought and it takes 3 days to week or more.
  14. I wanted to talk about doing a valve job, if you use your valves and cut seats you will need to check your valve clearance. before you put the head together mark each valve where it goes and put a bucket and disk to check it I used .010 , you can save yourself some Money by cutting the top of the valve to get your clearance this way your not buying disks. I got ahead of myself and didn't do this till I already had the head on but I had about 20 extra disk and was able to get them right. You could also have the disks cut on a valve grinder with a special attachment. If you do this remember to put the cut side down because you take the hard face of ! ,you could have them sent off to have them Nitrided but that may be expensive, I always have aircraft parts sent for nitriding so I can though in some extra parts. This should keep you from buying disks from Ford or Mazda, The parts person told me that they come in a pack of 4 and they were all the same thickness, which doesn't make sense to me, it seems that you should be able to buy them in different sizes one or two as needed ! There probably is a supply house that does sell them one ay a time in different sizes but not where I live. I will look and see if I can find someone and post it if I do.
  15. I started looking for Head gasket, I looked at all of them and finally ordered a Mazda gasket, I was going to get from dealer here but found it cheaper on Ebay($66.00) and that was cheaper than ones that I looked at Auto Zone and Advance Auto and NAPA and others. I also was able to borrow an engine stand. I didn't get the O-rings in the gasket set for thermostat housing and also for the Temp sender on the back of the head. On the head gasket I did a 30-60-90lbs, I think that you could use even a cheap head gasket with block, head decked and studs as long as it had the combustion sealing ring many I looked at like Fel Pro didn't have that. I was lucky I kept all the brackets for the Alternator, AC, Power steering pump, but I still had to look at my car to see how all the brackets went!! It's been 6-7 years since I took it apart. I with the help of my brother inlaw built a girdle for aliening my main caps, I could move them back and forth about a 1/16" so that helped I don't know why they didn't drop in the block where they should be. Next I found a small hole in the crank and started picking at it and the side of counter weight opened up so I had to trim it , at the factory they drilled the holes right on the edge on a lot of them. See pic. The rest of the build went ok , I didn't install cams yet since I haven't put timing belt in yet. There is still a lot of small things to do hose's and thermostat, I wish that I had kept the engine mounts and I hope that I can pull the engine with everything still on it. I did rebuild the tran's a couple months ago so thats all good. I did rotate the engine to see how good the compression is and with the valves all closed it's pretty good. I also took 2 vales out to see what his valve job looked like and it's dead on I lapped them, he said they don't lap valves as it could leave grit behind and I can go with that as I don't lap valves when doing a valve job on aircraft cylinders. I chucked them up in drill press and wiped them down and it took a bit of the black nitrite off the intake with scotch bite so I stopped that. I'm sure they will beat the seat in after I fire it up. They have a SERDI valve machine so they come out nice. I am Happy this peoject is about done now I need to paint the car and put shocks on and I like to get disk brakes for the back cause this car has never stopped very good and I have replaced everything master & wheel cylinders drums and disk, no ABS. So here's some other.pic's I took The intake is something that I need some ADVICE on it is a VICS I think it has butterfly's at the bottom, I could take them out and plug the holes with some small freeze plugs the air between cylinders is joined I guess to help the volume overlap like they do on cams. Or I could clean up my org. ( I'm tried of cleaning parts it's a real job!) I've read that Mazda had to do a lot of rebuilds because the screws in butterfly's coming out ! I still have the computer for the 02 but I didn't keep the wire harness, I could go to pull a part and take one out but I'm not sure it would be worth while, and be a lot work! So I hope next week to get this in the car next week!