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About Tiberianx

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 02/09/1990

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  • Car
    1996 Mazda626 ES V6 2.5L Auto, 2012 Nissan Rogue S I4 2.5L CVT, 2016 Mazda 6 GT I4 2.5L

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  • Location
    Detroit, Michigan
  1. If you get a catalytic converter below threshold code, your cats toast. You need to replace it. Also important to find what killed it.
  2. Your family has 2 CX-5?
  3. I don't know much or rebuilt the engines on the 1987 626. From my general rule, if there are any excessive clearance on any part of the motor such as the cam clearance and or Main bearing journal oil clearance; its most likely going to cause low oil pressure. Don't forget to consider the possible oil pump failing as well.
  4. How do you know the coolant is not circulating? From a logical point of view, if fluid is not circulating then there is something blocking the system. Narrow down the source, check if there is fluid able to flow through the radiator with a water hose, check your rubber hoses.
  5. Should paint the valve cover. It would look sweet.
  6. Time to check for headgasket leak. Possible that there may be exhaust gas leaking into the coolant system and creating more pressure. There's the normal engine compression tester and there's a headgasket testing tool that comes in a blue liquid.
  7. Sounds like a resistance related issue. When temperature changes, it affects the resistance in the wiring and sensors. You could check fuel injector resistance on each injector, it's been awhile I can't remember, I think the specs should be 14-16 ohms. If its open or too much ohms, it may be a failed injector.
  8. Pressure test the cooling system and see if there any pressure drop. If there is a pressure drop and you don't see it leaking anywhere externally, then you might need to looking at a possible headgasket job.
  9. I would presume that you would also have braking issues first in addition to the vacuum leak from the booster. Especially if you were to push the pedal down, you would hear a whoosh noise like air escaping from the brake pedal area meaning air escaping from the brake booster. Although I would be optimistic of the possibility of it having a vacuum leak and causing rough idle. When you push the brake pedal, the brake lights puts a load on your alternator. If you hold the brakes, does all your lights flicker? If you turn on all your loads or some of it like a.c., dome lights, high beam; does your engine buckle?
  10. What are the codes specifically?
  11. A symptom of a failing brake booster is a hard to depress brake pedal. You have to push very hard for the car to stop.
  12. Never heard of bleeding brakes with the engine running lol.
  13. I recommend opening the bleeder valves and let gravity bleed them first. Once fluid starts coming out on their own. Then start the manual bleeding process. You have to keep doing this till you see no more air bubbles in the system and the brake pedal no longer spongy. Keep the reservoir topped off and don't let air in. You may need several bottles of brake fluid to do this.
  14. I would test and check your radiator cap and see if it's holding proper specified pressure. I think it's supposed to be able to 15psi?
  15. Unlikely too much gas. Once an engine cranks and starts after, all the gas that's left in the cylinder will just get burnt up. Next thing I would do is pull codes.