Coke Robot

Members
  • Content count

    431
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Community Reputation

13 Good

About Coke Robot

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 06/14/1990

Previous Fields

  • Car
    1990 Mazda 626 5 Door

Recent Profile Visitors

4,191 profile views
  1. Alright everyone, I'm trying to replace my driver's side lower control arm but came across a few speed bumps. Do I need to undo the entire wheel hub assembly to get this thing taken off or is there an easier way of doing it?
  2. Well, in the ever continuing saga of weird noises and shakes on this car, I'm now left wondering if the mounts need to be aligned after install. I literally don't know what I touched that made the engine now pull a solid -20 PSI, with VERY little variation from that, only time to time it'll go -19 for one second and bounce back. But since recently, I've begun to notice more shakiness at idle while in gear. It's to the point that it reverberates in the cabin and it's rather annoying. I'm now thinking back from when I changed out two mounts initially, front tranny and driver side engine mount; for a few minutes it made things even worse but it wasn't shaking the steering wheel but felt like the chassis. Replaced the other two mounts and it settled down but at the time the engine vacuum was at -18 and blamed it on that. But now, even with a solid -20 PSI, it's still shaky; not in the steering wheel per se like before, but the chassis it feels like. That made me think if they need to actually be fully aligned and if so, what's the procedure for that?
  3. DIBS ON THE REAR MUD FLAPS!
  4. Has anyone ever "hacked" in a cabin air filter in their 626? I kind of want to do it, but the duct work seems like it would be a mess to do that with, let alone the fact I'm pretty sure air flow would be reduced... But hey, cleaner air?
  5. I found a set of headlights off fleaBay for the third gen, but from the images of it, I can't even tell what type of light bulbs they take. Does anyone know with European spec headlights, if they're the same 9004 base or what are they? Thanks!
  6. I ended up using a small pipe wrench and my trusty ol' steel cheater pipe to undo the nut. New manifold and front pipe and oxygen sensor is now installed and the 6 now purrs like a docile kitty!
  7. As the title states, is there a good tip or tool anyone has or can suggest on how to undo the nut that connects the EGR pipe to the exhaust manifold? Thanks!
  8. The alternator isn't TOO terribly tricky to do it the way you're trying, it's actually the easiest. I believe last time I did mine, I think I moved the EGR control valve out of the way by just slipping it off the tension mount clips near the actual EGR valve, disconnected and removed the charcoal canister, and just finagling it out. The ACTUAL method is a pain the in crotch as I believe it calls for dropping the passenger side cross member and dropping it straight down. The other way I've heard done is to move the air intake box and boot out of the way and pulling it out towards the driver's side. Pulling it up and out is easier, it just needs to be moved just right and pops out like a loose tooth.
  9. The thing has heated seats?! Pics or it didn't happen!
  10. Yep, anything from the 1988-92 Ford Probe, Mazda MX6/626 will work just fine. Even the GT alternator will be a-ok. And yep, wiggle out the charcoal fuel vapor canister, be sure to plug up the hose lines so nothing gets in them, and wiggle out the alternator. I recently had to do an emergency surgery on the car as the alternator (mind you, the second aftermarket replacement alternator) crapped out on me during a road trip. Took me about 15 or so minutes to rip it out and replace it with my original 26 year old OEM one that still kicked just fine. Just be sure to adjust the belt tension properly.
  11. Oh my God I think I have the same issue and have had it since I've had the car. :| I replaced the plenum gasket last year and made no effect, and my vacuum is 2 PSI off and has been since ever. I have not even bothered to check the EGR... As for tad low idle, you will need to adjust the idle air screw. The proper way, off the top of my head, involved something to do with the diagnostic connector as it adjusts it automatically against the ECU or something like that. If your idle is too low, it's going to be either that or a vacuum leak somewhere. I'd check vacuum pressure first and go from there.
  12. Obligatory 626 post for 6/26 Day, yay! \('o')/
  13. Lol! You already have a race car build project lying around as is on top of the MX6, don't bite off more than you can chew. Although I'm thinking of buying me a new shit parts car since where I live in Seattle they're a dollar a dozen from time to time. I just need me some body parts, inner gut parts, and some rear parts; part out the rest and haul it to the bone yard. I found a 6 hatch up waaay up north that has some front end damage but it's a manual and I feel like it would be sacrilege to end up killing that thing at the bone yard but if anyone would be interested in a manual tranny... I don't know.
  14. I would have guess MAF needed tuning. Cam timing, that's crazy!
  15. Yes. I decided partly against turboing my 6 simply because the differences between non-GT and GT ATXs seem just slightly enough that it would wreak things down the figurative and literal road. The other thing is, that K&N filter, any actual benefit over stock?