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Coke Robot

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Coke Robot last won the day on June 27 2015

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About Coke Robot

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  • Birthday 06/14/1990

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  1. I've been trying to hunt down the source of what could be causing my auto transmission to shift oddly for a while now. The ATF fluid never leaks or has ever leaked, it is at right levels, and doesn't get brown or smell burnt. For a LONG time, the transmission has shifted rather roughly between certain gears at certain speeds when the pedal is held at certain heights. I've hunted around all over and can't figure it out. Shifting from park to reverse and then drive and back up again causing the transmission to jerk. I can get the car to actually shift fairly smoothly if I keep the pedal depressed down in a sweet spot to make it go right. Even more odd, since I've had this car it's been an issue but it hasn't been so bad that it's warranted rebuilding or anything, nor has it gotten progressively worse. In fact, it's gotten slightly better over time from tinkering with the TPS sensor and switching to synthetic ATF. There aren't really specific gears that shift hard either. I can go from 1st to 2nd smoothly, then 3rd is rough. I can go from 1st to 2nd roughly, 3rd is smooth. Thinking about this lately, the speedometer doesn't show the right MPH that it should. If I check with my phone with GPS, going 60 MPH in the car reflects as about 54-55 MPH. Between two different gauge clusters, one analog and the other digital, both have reflected the same speed variance. I don't know if the vehicle speed sensor on the gauge cluster affects shifting for sure, but would an old speedo cable indirectly affect the transmission? I don't really want to go about throwing parts at it but I'm kind of at the point I probably will.
  2. I'm just reading all this thinking how nuts it is that in three years where I live, I can put collector's car plates on the 6. That is old af. But hey, I'm hoping they actually make a new RX model by 2020 in time for my car's birthday!
  3. Hello all! I thought I'd use you guys as a sounding board because I think my oil pump O ring is going bad. As of recent, I've been noticing some crazy oil leakage, like a small puddle under the car that builds up after driving around and parking for bit. It's right under the front right corner of the engine block. I thought it was from my oil pan again, as I messed up the gasket two-ish years ago but ever since has been seal up perfectly fine. Checking under the hood doesn't show much other than the timing belt cover, there is some noticeable seepage where there are gaps between the cover pieces of the timing belt area. Checking the service manual shows the pump is right in the area I'm talking about. Is this a reasonable guess? I'm going to get some UV dye and add it in and check for sure where it's coming from, but if it's coming from the oil pump, how rough of a job are we talking about?
  4. Alright everyone, I'm trying to replace my driver's side lower control arm but came across a few speed bumps. Do I need to undo the entire wheel hub assembly to get this thing taken off or is there an easier way of doing it?
  5. Well, in the ever continuing saga of weird noises and shakes on this car, I'm now left wondering if the mounts need to be aligned after install. I literally don't know what I touched that made the engine now pull a solid -20 PSI, with VERY little variation from that, only time to time it'll go -19 for one second and bounce back. But since recently, I've begun to notice more shakiness at idle while in gear. It's to the point that it reverberates in the cabin and it's rather annoying. I'm now thinking back from when I changed out two mounts initially, front tranny and driver side engine mount; for a few minutes it made things even worse but it wasn't shaking the steering wheel but felt like the chassis. Replaced the other two mounts and it settled down but at the time the engine vacuum was at -18 and blamed it on that. But now, even with a solid -20 PSI, it's still shaky; not in the steering wheel per se like before, but the chassis it feels like. That made me think if they need to actually be fully aligned and if so, what's the procedure for that?
  6. Has anyone ever "hacked" in a cabin air filter in their 626? I kind of want to do it, but the duct work seems like it would be a mess to do that with, let alone the fact I'm pretty sure air flow would be reduced... But hey, cleaner air?
  7. I found a set of headlights off fleaBay for the third gen, but from the images of it, I can't even tell what type of light bulbs they take. Does anyone know with European spec headlights, if they're the same 9004 base or what are they? Thanks!
  8. I ended up using a small pipe wrench and my trusty ol' steel cheater pipe to undo the nut. New manifold and front pipe and oxygen sensor is now installed and the 6 now purrs like a docile kitty!
  9. As the title states, is there a good tip or tool anyone has or can suggest on how to undo the nut that connects the EGR pipe to the exhaust manifold? Thanks!
  10. The alternator isn't TOO terribly tricky to do it the way you're trying, it's actually the easiest. I believe last time I did mine, I think I moved the EGR control valve out of the way by just slipping it off the tension mount clips near the actual EGR valve, disconnected and removed the charcoal canister, and just finagling it out. The ACTUAL method is a pain the in crotch as I believe it calls for dropping the passenger side cross member and dropping it straight down. The other way I've heard done is to move the air intake box and boot out of the way and pulling it out towards the driver's side. Pulling it up and out is easier, it just needs to be moved just right and pops out like a loose tooth.
  11. The thing has heated seats?! Pics or it didn't happen!
  12. Yep, anything from the 1988-92 Ford Probe, Mazda MX6/626 will work just fine. Even the GT alternator will be a-ok. And yep, wiggle out the charcoal fuel vapor canister, be sure to plug up the hose lines so nothing gets in them, and wiggle out the alternator. I recently had to do an emergency surgery on the car as the alternator (mind you, the second aftermarket replacement alternator) crapped out on me during a road trip. Took me about 15 or so minutes to rip it out and replace it with my original 26 year old OEM one that still kicked just fine. Just be sure to adjust the belt tension properly.
  13. Oh my God I think I have the same issue and have had it since I've had the car. :| I replaced the plenum gasket last year and made no effect, and my vacuum is 2 PSI off and has been since ever. I have not even bothered to check the EGR... As for tad low idle, you will need to adjust the idle air screw. The proper way, off the top of my head, involved something to do with the diagnostic connector as it adjusts it automatically against the ECU or something like that. If your idle is too low, it's going to be either that or a vacuum leak somewhere. I'd check vacuum pressure first and go from there.
  14. Obligatory 626 post for 6/26 Day, yay! \('o')/
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