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Zoom Zoom 626

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About Zoom Zoom 626

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    Member

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  • Car
    1999 mazda 626 4cyl 2.0L 16v

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  • AIM
    mykrodood

Profile Information

  • Location
    mtta, ohio
  1. Nevermind, I went ahead and ordered the 93+ 626 stage one clutch kit from southbend and it fits perfectly. Even the throwout bearing is the same, so the kit is good for any protege/EGT/capri/626/probe with a g series transmission.
  2. I need an old no good/used clutch disk and pressure plate from a 93+ 626 or probe with a 2.5l I won't be doing anything more than mocking it up to a BP flywheel to see if it would/could work, so I don't want to pay much aside from shipping, and a few dollars for your time. Feel free to post or pm me, its an odd request but the rumor is they interchange and I want to be sure before i spend 200$ on a stage 2 clutch i can't use.
  3. clicking when turning is signs of a bad cv joint, also, if your cruising at a speed, let off the gas, then reapply like normal, does it jerk a little? when you replace front end wheelbearings, the driveshaft needs removed from the hub, so its likely the shop kinked the outter cv joint in the process, or put it in some sort of bindwhich caused premature failure, but they will never admit it. sorry for not using punctuation, this site isnt android friendly.
  4. I know your supposed to use the search feature, and trust me, I've put hours into it. I'm looking for the 99 (5th gen) wiring diagrams for everything dealing with the multifunction switch, from the turn signals to headlights to wipers and washer. I'm not changing mine out, I'm attempting to swap the entire multifunction switch/clockspring/steering wheel and functional airbag from a junk yard 626 into my 94 Ford Aspire. I've already mocked the stuff up, so I know it's a direct bolt on upgrade, save the wires, and all for the "upgraded" intermittent wiper switch. Some help here would be apprecia
  5. Last time I was in the junk yard I noticed a kia sportage with a 2.0, I'm using the hood release on my mazda right now. Anyway, kia is using all the old ford/mazda designs, like the aspires motor/tranny and escorts/miata/capri trannys. I know for a fact that the first generation MTX Rio transmissions will bolt up to a B-series mazda/ford engine, it's a newer version of the old G series, supposedly tougher. The struts and springs are a direct bolt on upgrade for a festiva or aspire front end. I would venture to guess that the 1.3L and 2.0's from rios and sportages would swap too. Granted there
  6. lol, mr. florida resident, i understand why you would think that, but powdercoating my oil pan while its on the car isnt an option for me. had i not taken the tire off an looked i wouldnt have noticed the rust developing on the pan, which needs hit with a grinder to strip the surface rust and bubbles and find any holes that may have already developed thanks to the great state of ohio and our salty roads. any paint will fade and get scratched after years, thats why you prep the surface right and lay a good coat of primer sealer so the next time you paint it wont be as hard.theres nothing wrong
  7. as far as the camaro, i wasnt even thinking of touching it, but it sold quick, a car like that has potential. my statement was just an example of why i dont care to make this car ..faster.. to me its not worth the price tag. making festivas and aspires fast is cheap and well documented in many cases, its nothing new im trying to do, just new to me, and a good starter car because at the end of the day, its just an aspire. if i break it, i didnt have much in it anyway, besides time. as far as me doing work to cars and producing results, you guys dont even know me, so i dont understand why you w
  8. Honestly, I don't think this 626 is worth fixing up or buying any go fast stuff for. It just weighs too much and once you get into weight and speed you get into alot of costly parts, I'd just as soon buy the 800$ camaro berlinet my buddys selling and fix it for that kind of price. My project for after the new year is gonna be a motor/tranny swap for my aspire, i'm hoping the funds from selling this will pay for most of what I need for a BPT/mfactory diff/megasquirt system, and hopefully put me in the 13's on 13" wheels. The festiva guys are running 12's but they weigh a couple hundred lbs less
  9. Time for an update I suppose, I got the car running in late august, so far I've put a little over 2000 miles on it without any major issues, I had to replace the link rod on the passenger side rear sway bar, but i knew that was comming, easy 25$ fix if you own a grinder. There's a 99 626 in the junk yard here, so any parts i need are there, it's got a bad tranny. All-in-all, this car is a disappointment, I was expecting a little more pep in a Mazda. No big deal, it's good enough to haul the kids around and get me back and forth to work while I paint my Aspire. The gas milage sucks, so I'm tryi
  10. hanks valorium.you cleared up alot of things that i thought sounded weird comin from zoom zoom.no offense zoom zoom.im pretty sure tham im gonna go with the b&g springs because im wantin a 1.5 inch drop and the kyb gr2 struts.i gotta save up for em but il post pics whenever i slap em on there.thanks for the help! No offense taken, you asked how do drop you car "correctly" and I told you one way, he says another. It's a tomatoe tomaaato subject at best. I don't feel I misled you in any way, this is actually just the tip of an iceberg I don't want to get into, as leev pointed out, there are
  11. Sorry man, but this is just flat out wrong. When you cut the spring, it increases the spring rate. The stock strut is not designed to dampen it, and as a result the ride is bouncy, and can become dangerous depending on the situation. I've seen Hondas slammed on cut springs, and it's hilarious, yet a bit unnerving. When you buy quality coils, they're engineered to be X length and Y spring rate for the front and Z spring rate for the rear, which is a setup that is designed for the car. Now you can go and buy "Moe's super sweet springs" off of ebay for 40$ and who knows what the spring rates
  12. Bah, those idiots make it look hard, who in their right mind would twist the top mount off before compressing the springs? For future reference, if you don't have any common sense, don't do anything I say. If you have the money to waste, go ahead and buy new struts and springs, but effectively, your just wasting money unless you are wanting to really upgrade to a racing type suspension, which requires more than just new struts. Cutting the springs is not going to cause you to loose control any more than getting new (shorter) springs, keep in mind, what you are proposing is lowering the car,
  13. Haha..hey that's not a bad write up from right off the top of your head, ofc its a little long and i didn't read all, just kinda skimmed, I like pics tho, they're easier to understand u should edit some in and have this moved and stickied, I believe you covered the gist of it, from the axels to the wires, very nice job, hope it works well for you for years to come!
  14. What do you mean cut it while its compressed? Compressed in the strut, or compressed in the spring compressor designed to compress springs that you wouldn't rent unless you plan on compressing springs?
  15. Take the struts off, 6 bolts per side, move the brake hose and ABS out of your way, rent a spring compressor from azone(55$) and cut 1/2 a coil off each spring until it sits at the height you want.. Make sure you cut the bottom of the spring. You might have to get some new aftermarket camber bolts, nomatter what way you choose do do this, lowering the car its going to throw the alignment off so be prepared to pay for that too.
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