aleekat

With that mileage I would be concerned about the transmission.

Before you throw anymore parts at it. What are the codes? Shop Manuals

I ask about the rpm change because there is a one way check valve in the main brake booster hose that can go bad. You can't see it and lots of folks don't know it exists.

Any hissing or rpm change when stepping on the brakes? You can check this in park at idle.

If you are asking about removing the alternator. PBlaster on the front pipe nuts to remove than you can drop the alternator out. Pipe does not need to be removed just loosen up to move out of the way.

Any hissing or rpm change when stepping on the brakes? You can check this in park at idle.

Thanks for posting back.

weep hole at the bottom of the waterpump. signs it is going out. Edit: Get a pressure tester.

a/c drain line. normal

Shop Manuals

I can only suggest check over every fuse. Edit: I would try and narrow down whether it's spark or fuel. Plug removed and place near the engine and look for spark. Or starting fluid. So you can decide the course of action determining why one of those is missing.

A cheap check would be look for the test port in front of the catalytic converter. Remove it and drive around and see if it runs better.

The problem is Mazda changed all the part numbers after 97 even if it crossed over. All you can do is check with the seller about return policy.

https://www.google.com/search?q=GD7B6997580&rlz=1C1CHBD_enUS724US724&oq=GD7B6997580&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i60l2j69i61&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Yep sounds like a head gasket. Your buddy thinks the Mazda has xmns oil cooler lines that share the radiator, not so. Other cars do this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5zpNjYmmiYY

I just remove the 3 nuts up front. Pulled the exhaust down and was able to maneuver the alternator out.

Good deal.

This is an 01 Manual

Unless you have the Imobilizer system than extra heffy bill to get a key and programed.

Since it's been a couple years since I did the front mount on mine I can't remember exactly what it looks like. Maybe weld a nut on the circular part?

Is the circular part spinning? If so sounds like the weld has broken from the bracket? If not, either the bolt is stripped or the circular part.

Just curious if you removed the front pipe or just loosened it up?

The through bolt should have a nut on the end that has to be held. You also need to jack up the engine a little to take the weight off the mount. Use a block of wood for protection. And you didn't give the year or engine type?

GENERATOR REMOVAL/INSTALLATION Warning • When the battery cables are connected, touching the vehicle body with generator terminal B will generate sparks. This can cause personal injury, fire, and damage to the electrical components. Always disconnect the battery before performing the following operation. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the transverse member. (FS) 3. Remove the front pipe. (FS) (See 01-15-2 EXHAUST SYSTEM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION [FS].) 4. Remove in the order indicated in the table. 5. Install in the reverse order of removal. BTW: called a generator in the shop manual. 2001 US shop manual

Owners Manual If you don't have one. Fuse S inside the car. And if you read the above posts, shows the fuse diagram.