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Everything posted by GT_FE3

  1. While this is not going to be a project car in the sense of massive engineering transformation, I figured I'd make a build thread showcasing how to make a reasonably nice tidy condition car really stand out and show that, yes you can do stuff to your family car not just the project car and also to prevent this car mingling with my TX5's thread. I needed a car with 7 seats for family duties - a mini van or 4x4 is not happening - I love corners and they don't, top heavy with boat like handling characteristics, no thanks. Having thought I found one which ended up being a dud - overheated and then it got hit while broke down on the side of the road, I started the search again and found this one. I was very pleasantly surprised when I won the auction at $1,250 as these tend to fetch a fair bit my by almost double the price. This is a 1997 GW Mazda Capella wagon, apparently with Mazda Speed springs and body kit, Jasma rear muffler with a massive tip - surprisingly its very quiet this is what I dreamed about doing but may not have done. I have 140 hp of FS-DE power which could be useful if it was a 5 speed - since my wife drives it it had to be auto. So here it is, reasonably tidy for an almost 20 year old car with 144,000 kms. One family owned it since it came from Japan in 2005. The interior is very tidy and honestly it still smells like a new car. Exterior needed a wash and a quick hand polish would have helped but its me and I did far more than that. First thing I did was change the oil and filter - easy same location as the TX5. The oil was very dark and overdue by 8 months with 10w40 Penrite semi-synthetic - because FS engines don't like full synthetic so I've heard. The first pics are from the seller before I got the car. Generally no big dents or catastrophic paint damage - paint is quite dull as you can see its not hard to bring it back. Sure the bumpers have some scrapes - I will touch up and re-clear them too I also need foglamps from a SP20 - or Protege and some monsoon shields for the rear doors. First up is a full cut and polish.
  2. GT_FE3

    1997 Capella S/W with Mazdaspeed goodness

    I rang in the morning gave them the money and in the afternoon this arrived for my car! In a Mazda E2000 van. While was repairing a silver GW - cooling system failure - leaking radiator stuck thermostat and leaking coolant pipes, those pain in the bum ones under the exhaust manifold. I got a replacement pipe today from the junkyard and also picked up the mounts for the strut brace from the blue MS SP20. They wanted $40 - the cost of the brace, so I didn't bother with that, rip off for just 2 mounts and no brace! Going to get it from the Mazda wrecker instead.
  3. GT_FE3

    1997 Capella S/W with Mazdaspeed goodness

    By chance I happened to go to the Mazda wrecker today for a customer's car (Starter motor). Asked about the SP20 tiptronic - none in stock and they weren't sure when any would arrive. $495, so my guess of $450 wasn't far off. Extra $240 to swap it to tiptronic, I'd rather pay that to go manual. They did have a dual sump GW box, the same year with 128,000 km tested with 3 months warranty at $300. Not bad and it's plug and play. New fluid and filter for sure once its in. I said I'd get it once I confirmed how many sumps my current box has. Looked under the car - 2 sumps. Think I found my gearbox! FN4A-EL is in a variety of different flavors. Single sump and double sump, regular auto and tiptronic and all seem to be labeled on the tag as "4EC-AT". Which can be traced back to the GD. I love GD's. I have love for this too. I took the (junk) Spark plugs off the $50 engine. It is surprisingly clean - no sludge in the head or pistons, just some minor carbon as expected with use which I'll clean. Phone flat so no pics of the fun engine stuff. There's average ones of the gearbox though. I dropped some oil down the plug holes to turn the engine. Turns nicely with good compression kick! I'm still going to go over it all I'm not just chucking it in and hoping it works. Half the battle won. I need to save up for the seal kit. And I realized I forgot to ask about a torque converter since this one is junk.
  4. GT_FE3

    1997 Capella S/W with Mazdaspeed goodness

    Ford 4F27E/Mazda FN4A-EL is the tiptronic gearbox the Sport20 uses. Tag inside the driver door on my car says "4EC-AT" for the transmission, single sump in the front, there's a sticker but its faded and can't read whats printed. I've checked tags on a few Sport 20 Familia's in the junkyard they say the same thing inside the door - 4EC-AT. So essentially the same gearbox. Only if I want the tiptronic stuff I'll need the ECU, gearbox loom and cluster. Research shows the body/interior loom is the same between 5 speed and auto cars, which I read as close to plug and play. A few minor things I'll need to iron out generally though I'm thinking of going with it. I won't be getting a pick a part transmission as likely the car is there for that reason. I'll spend a bit more for a working one with warranty. ECU clutser and loom I'll likely get. $350 trade price for a full engine gasket kit. I'll need front and rear main seals too ($60-80 there). $45 for bearings. Waiting on figures for rings. Next up is cost up a trans. $45 for a cluster $30 for the loom. Gearbox $350 for the exact one I have. Or $450 for the tiptronic. $175 more approx..... it's tempting.
  5. GT_FE3

    1997 Capella S/W with Mazdaspeed goodness

    The $40 genuine MS headers. Excited to put these on. I'll get a high flow cat converter and a sport mid muffler later down the road once its actually drive able without smoke/ imminent transmission failure. Sounds good as it is just quiet like its 100% stock with one muffler cut out. Too quiet. I want it a bit louder just not TX5 loud (hear it blocks away).
  6. GT_FE3

    1997 Capella S/W with Mazdaspeed goodness

    So I am getting figures together. Around $350 trade gets me a full gasket set - rocker cover, sparkplug, intake, exhaust, cam, head gasket, sump and valve stem seals and a few others I've forgotten to mention. Perma seal; aftermarket I have one of their headgaskets in my TX5 and its still good 10 years on. I'm waiting to hear back for the cost of standard NPR rings. Same deal with the bearings. I figure another $350 or so here. I'll have to get front and rear main seals. Around $45 each. I'm going to replace accessory belts - they have cracks. $55 both. I'm re-using cambelt and waterpump from the smokey lump that will save me a little money they both only have 30,000 km on them - 1/3 of their lifespan. Replacement slushbox is $350. I don't know about the converter; it will be extra which I'll need - I don't trust this one (noisy). $900 for a diy engine build and replacement gearbox. It could be possible! So far I've spent $40 on the exhaust manifold. $50 for the long block.
  7. GT_FE3

    Post Up Pictures Of Your 626

    That would be awesome I'd like to see that
  8. GT_FE3

    1997 Capella S/W with Mazdaspeed goodness

    This is what gave up the FS-ZE long block - a white SP20 wagon
  9. GT_FE3

    1997 Capella S/W with Mazdaspeed goodness

    A pity looked to be a nice car overall.
  10. GT_FE3

    1997 Capella S/W with Mazdaspeed goodness

    Lol I go forwards and backwards on this. I really need to have it going. So I'm replacing the auto - yuck - (used tested unit with 6 months warranty - $350 trade price). When my wife is done with it I'll probably go 5 speed then. I am hunting for a full gasket kit, rings and bearings, I can see it being around $800, so I try and get small cheap bits first. I plan on stripping the $50 engine at home, cleaning it at work in spare time and then assembling when I have all the parts together, then bring the car to work - hopefully the gearbox will hold for 40 kms, swap over the bits from the smokey engine onto the freshed up one. Someone took this engine in the pic - not that it bothered me as I already have a FS-ZE long block. I wanted the intake manifold but it was gone. I did get the exhaust manifold from this exact car - genuine FS-ZE Mazdaspeed Protege/Familia ex japan, which suffered a big front end hit. Wouldn't have minded the yellow brace, only on the MS cars but it was gone. I already have the common red one which will do anyway lol. Its happening! Just slowly as I save and get parts together. If my wallet was full of money and everything was on the shelf I'd take the car tomorrow and get right into it.
  11. So you may have already seen pictures of my car lurking elsewhere on the internet. I thought I would share my build with you. My cardomain has over 300+ pics of it so far in various stages - have a look if you want to see progress unfold step by step, I won't be transfering them all here. I don't know if anyone else is still into GD hatches, I still am (lol I always liked them from day one, literally. I probably always will be.) The first time I ever remember seeing a GD hatch was way back in 1990. It like mine was in Telstar form but in white and grey (I like the 626 just as much for the record.) I can remember looking out the window at it at a friends house and thinking "one day I will own a car like that." So the story pauses here. Fast forward to early 2006. I get a ride in a stock black and grey Telstar, much like the one 16 years earlier. I know nothing about these cars yet. Apart from the fact that they are front wheel drive and they all seem to be carby. My dads friend driving it is putting it through its paces (winds out first - 60 km/h, then second just under 120 km/h - then he backs off. I'm thinking to myself wow this old thing goes pretty hard. He lets me drive it. As its not mine Im not so rough with it. Can't believe how fast this thing is. I hadn't seen the engine, the factory dohc badges were missing off the guards so here I was thinking its single cam carby. I also thought it was weird that a 1.8 sohc carby could move like that, this is beating my 4afe Corolla (although its slower than a wet week, but it was twin cam injected.) Its getting dark when I finally get my first glimpse of the gold rocker cover with "FORD DOHC 16 VALVE" imprinted on it. So thats why its no slouch I thought. The guy is selling the car. I am liking that car alot. I tell him I am keen on it. A week later it is mine. Still like it as much as I did the first time I rode in it. I still like it as much as I did all those years ago in 1990. As we all know with old cars stuff wears out. So why not get a slightly stiffer clutch? Or Slightly lower springs? Well I hated the stock 14"s from the start - I wanted the 15" standard 626 white swirl rims, but there were none for sale, I didn't plan on 17's but they looked so good I couldnt refuse. So this is the classic sport hatch, now with extra zoom. Enjoy!! Comments welcome. Stock: Rims: During painting (I am a carpainter. $1000 alone for paint, at cost price!) Colour is PPG Deltron Pantherschwartz - panther black. Suspension assembly Engine replacement (damaged original engine block when broke headgasket) How she once was..... she will rise once again, better and stronger than ever...... That has to be one of my favourite pics. And this is how she stands now. Rust cut out, plates welded in. Priming Also I am painting this. Its made by Top Town - ultra rare AT Telstar body kit, never seen another one. It is similar to Australia's Fibermaster one. Only have rear bumper on, painting spoiler and sides off the car. Currently have the C pillar in primer surfacer. Color annd clearing over the next few days.
  12. Thanks man. Red is a bit faded since I did it, may redo it in vinyl. Car still going. Replaced a tire and changed the oil late December. Due for a timing belt and water pump soon ($50 pump, $90 belt), right engine mount needs changing (trying to find one for less than $100) I also need to machine the rotors (hopefully less than $100 for all 4) And change the brake pads ($50) and also brake fluid (Got some). The axle seals are average so it drips a bit of oil, I topped up the gearbox last night and it shifts nicer and seems happier/less noise. This is while getting bits for the Capella slowly, still need the internal bits on that - rings bearings etc. And my CBR badly needs a CCT and a fuel tap $27 tap, $180 CCT. Thankfully I can get the car parts at cost - perk of being a mechanic. Also there is finding the time to do it all. CBR is first because its easy and wont take long plus I commute on it 40 miles a day.
  13. GT_FE3

    Didn't know this car had a following...

    A/C out? Belt loose? Can the pulley turn? If you can hear the pump but it still feels hot its probably low on refrigerant. Can't hear the pump? Its likely faulty and/or the electronics around it. Depending where you are you can get a recharge kit from some auto parts stores. Likely though being a 1992 the seals inside could be breaking down, and compressor oil is mixing in, diluting everything preventing it from cooling. That is best sent in to the experts. Or if you know of a good functioning pump, swap it in. Be sure to safely drain the refrigerant though.
  14. GT_FE3

    Wheel sizing - deathtrap?

    Death trap? Not really. It'll make some noises and rub. Fwd Mazda offset is generally around +40 to +50. Its +45 on 14" wheels for the GE 626. Possibly a combination of too wide tyres with slightly different offset - max I'd go for is 225 myself. Jack it up and take a wheel off to see where its rubbing.
  15. So I got the injectors back - I sent them to be tested, cleaned and rebuilt. Put them in. I got new spark plugs because its been years since I'd done them and they were nearing the end of their service interval. Still had the miss. Started playing with the plugs to check if they were connected properly. And suddenly the car ran as it should! Traced the injector loom down the firewall. Found a plug. Pushed on it and it slid in a fraction and clicked. I laughed. I don't think it was a bad investment having my injectors rebuilt. Car seems a bit happier anyway. I got a new temp sensor. Idle has dropped a bit. Spent the previous weekend repainting the side skirts, front bumper (top) and rear spoiler. Sanded the rust off the rear wheel. I used a clay bar, went with Ultimate Compound and my machine polisher over the whole car and finished it with Carnauba wax so it looked its best come the special day. And then on the day of the wedding an o-ring on injector 1 split. I wondered why the car seemed a bit difficult to start that morning (way too rich). When I stopped I smelled fuel. I saw fuel all over the intake manifold I knew it had a broken seal. That day of all the days! Fortunately I wasn't in my suit yet and it was early morning so I took my injector, got on my CBR and rode to the closest auto store - Repco. Asked if they had any o-rings. They did. Just none in the size I needed. So I got oil resistant RTV and prayed. This was THE car team groom were going to arrive in. And like I would let something as trivial as an o-ring ruin that on the big day - no way. It held. Not the proper fix, I know I didn't have the luxury of time to find the proper part. The car was great and has done another few hundred kms since. Pics to come.
  16. GT_FE3

    1997 Capella S/W with Mazdaspeed goodness

    So I don't lose this, although I have already changed a few clutches and replaced my TX5's gearbox I've never done an auto to manual swap before. As well as a rebuild. I've taken a junk motor out and put another in. Done a couple of head gaskets. But this will be the biggest mechanical project I've ever undertaken. Exciting. And nervous. But will be fun.
  17. GT_FE3

    1997 Capella S/W with Mazdaspeed goodness

    Stoked its mine! Now its in my folks car port - dark blurry pics. I'll be tearing it down soon. The crankshaft is a concern - if no good I'll use the current FS-DE one machined back to spec. Also since its sat there is some water in the plug holes (plugs are there). Not bothered, 2 other heads I can use. Should be able to these camshafts. Will check valves and springs. Hoping pistons and rods are good.
  18. GT_FE3

    1997 Capella S/W with Mazdaspeed goodness

    Sometimes you just find a deal that you just have to get. $50 for a FS-ZE longblock with 180,000 kms! Catch is its not been running. It will need tearing down and machining which I'll have done. New bearings and rings, hoping I can get away on pistons and rods. Pick a part will have all the MTX stuff I need to convert to 5 speed, as well as the ZE intake manifold and ECU, getting both engine and transaxle. One and only poor picture of the actual 'engine' until I can get it. I might sell the other $50 head, recoup my cost on that. Or I might keep it and practise porting and polishing. Some of the valves are questionable. Not worried - over 2 and a half engines I have a total of 48 valves and 8 pistons! Lol. Will use all my accessories from the current engine including the sub 1000 km spark plugs I'd just put in. Drop in high flow filter for some Vroom. Last time at the junk yard I got a red factory strut bar from a SP20 Familia (Protege). $42 which isn't bad. So I'm making a lightly tuned J-spec FS-ZE. Stage 1 port and polish - just smooth everything and remove castings inside, done myself. Basic blueprint - balance the bottom end - pistons, rods, pins and circlips. I plan to keep standard spec if I can, re-use crankshaft, rods and pistons if I can. Replace all bearings, rings and gaskets, frost plugs, cambelt, water pump. Honing and surfacing to be done at a machine shop. Found a set of headers; if they are still for sale when I get started on this I'll get them too. High flow cat converter, a small resonator to replace a muffler, a high flow muffler and a smaller tip for the rear; it scrapes on everything. Exciting!
  19. So almost 2 months later and it was ok. No mixing oil and coolant. Then a few days ago it developed a miss, slight hiccup, nothing at first. I spilled some oil the day before and figured it had gone down the plug hole. Which it had. Cleaned the plug, which is due for replacement. Thought I'd check the PCV valve. Which broke apart in 5 pieces. Dammit. Made sure everything was out before starting. Rigged something up for the night because I had to use the car. It ran on all 4 just rough low idle because of the lack of PCV. Got the PCV from the C(r)apella and got another bit of hose as the original was brittle and cracked. Fixed! *I wish* Drove good for a couple of days but then went down a cylinder. Pulled leads to isolate the faulty cylinder - #1. Had to go to my parents today, weather was hell so I didn't use the bike I used my crap running car. Only 8 km away so not far, figured I'd sort it there since there is cover and not exposed like this hell hole. Did a more thorough clean of the plug, wire brush, gaped it etc and swapped it with plug #2 but it was still missing on cylinder #1. I stole a spark plug from the C(r)apella to test the TX5's ones. #1 yellow spark. #2 was whitish, same as the others. Yeah, I need plugs. Leads are good, nice blue spark from them. Onto fuel. Injector not firing. Multi meter showed it working but no pulse. Loose wire from the ECU. Push it in and it started and ran on all 4! Drove home, then half way the bloody thing starts missing again. I'm wondering about the injection though. Hoping not it'll be impossible to get injectors for this should I have to replace them. Can't even get a temp sensor. Oh yeah I forgot - I went to the junkyard. And the sensor is as bad as my one, which is now in my car. Can't use the old one its broken and I can see the wires and it doesn't read anything. So I need the coolant sensor as well, car still runs rich because it thinks its cold all the time. It was a $5 gamble which didn't pay out lol, so I'll get a new one.
  20. GT_FE3

    1997 Capella S/W with Mazdaspeed goodness

    2 weeks ago one night I started to hear a faint random high pitch whine. The next day the trans slipped far more than usual into second when cold. It also flared - revved and randomly shifted between third and fourth on the highway. Torque converter makes noise at anything more than half throttle. So this trans is no good. I know it because it means solenoids. Fluid is full and acceptable and does not smell burned so there is some internal issue. I want to get this going again. FS-ZE would be cool, having a hard time finding a SP20 Protege/Familia for cheap. I found an auto one one with 165,000 km which had leaking struts, rust and some panel damage. I was thinking $500 but someone decided to pay almost double. So I'm still looking for them and if I find one I will but not for $950. I'll probably get a 5 speed 626/Capella, found a $450 1998 626 which was very smokey with 280,000 kms, waiting to hear back on - hoping its a go. Cheaper this way than the junk yard and I have every single bit to make it a 100% factory manual conversion which means no red tape rubbish and money wasted. $500 also gets a guaranteed used auto trans, I would rather a 5 speed any day and I will at least get my money back selling off what I don't want so for me its the way to go. I kind of have to fix this car, 7 seat ones are hard to get and if i was to try and transfer seats over I'd get caught in red tape because its a structural and restraint modification which means $600. My wife doesn't like driving it that much since its so low. I've driven lower cars, but this one is probably the lowest.
  21. Weird it bubbled and frothed yesterday. It is still clean, not mixing, no bubbles, fans work. Ran it up to temp and driven it around a little. It seems ok. Idle is very high though, probably because of temp sensor, reads just over 1/4 on the gauge. So I swapped cars again because the Capella which now makes a torque converter noise on hills if you go 1/2 throttle. Slips into 3rd. The trans oil is clean and full though and does not smell burned. Converter fault? I like the car. Hate the gearbox more than I did initially. Like the car enough to not junk it. Best bet is a crashed 5 speed 626 with good running gear to swap in I think.
  22. Well, it did drive great. A stupid hose failed. Lost coolant. noticed steam, turned it off, let if cool for 2 hours prayed it was ok. Nope, bubbles and froths. Insert language and stuff. I am really pissed off and I don't like cars right now. I'm putting it back into the garage. Will use it for my wedding. I think it is a good time to do a full rebuild on the engine. Everything.
  23. GT_FE3

    transmission problems

    Likely its dead. How was the oil and filter before it died? Could be the pump, valve body. Auto's don't like getting hot especially with contaminated/old fluid and filters in them. Best to use the one from the spare car if it is good.
  24. Axle is good, some minor play. Clunking was likely the exhaust which I don't think I had put in the hanger 100% and had worked itself loose and it clunked as it bumped the driveway. Slight leak from a seal but nothing monumental, fixing that soon as I can. I did spill some oil topping the gearbox up which made it look worse. Double check everything! Which I didn't do after I was distracted. Car is good again and drives great.