GT_FE3

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About GT_FE3

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  • Car
    1989 MTX FE Dohc GD Sporthatch, 1997 GF Wagon FS Dohc ATX

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    Auckland New Zealand

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  1. Forgot to take pics. Jacked the car up, ps fluid is in both rack boots - the teflon seal inside the rack is damaged. It also clunks as the steering is turned, possible damage or contamination which had damaged the spool valves inside. Anyway its looked it the steering rack has to come out. It'll need new tie rods - both inner and outers, new boots and bushes and that is a few $$ before I even get to the rack.
  2. 2.0 FS-DE swap help

    Thread on it. Section 9 on the bottom has what needs to be changed.
  3. 2.0 FS-DE swap help

    Don't need anything custom. Suggest a half cut or donor car. Will need engine mounts, wiring + ecu, axles - spline count and size will likely be different as well as size and lengths, maybe stuff like hubs too. You'd want brakes too as the KL has more power.
  4. Need help Pleaseee 2.0 fs no spark

    http://www.pmx626.info/index.php?dir=US%2FMazda+626+%26+MX-6%2FWork+Shop+Manuals%2FScans%2F PMX626 from MX6.com it should have something
  5. 1997 Capella S/W with Mazdaspeed goodness

    A couple of days ago, the radiator started leaking. I got a used replacement which had been checked over for $90. A new one is over $200 and I need money to fund the engine refresh. Put in the replacement, which also leaked I noticed a day later. I had some trapped air which caused the fans to run continuously and the engine to get warm way quicker than normal and threaten to overheat if I didn't use the heater. Took the dud replacement radiator back, got the one I was mean to have - its is slightly used but the plastic looks brand new and the core is super clean with no bent fins at all! Almost brand new radiator for $90! They are $220 new for a genuine one or $150 for a cheap aftermarket one which I wasn't too keen on, so I reckon I did well with that. Spent more time bleeding air when refilling coolant. It runs perfect, halfway on the gauge and zero leaks. Pity I need to top the oil up again. I've done barely 3,000 km's since I serviced it. Smokes on start up, on throttle and deceleration now. Always a blue cloud behind me so I need to do something. I am buying a long block FS which had rod knock for $100. This is a basic built to factory spec build for as cheap as I can. If I can re use parts I will - pistons namely. I got the head today which has been planed and pressure tested and had valve seals replaced a couple of years ago - in go my lifters and cams so no need for valve seals! I'm using parts from mine and parts from the long block to make one good engine. Obviously due to knock I'm using my crank, I get the block included but he has to get it out of the car first. Pistons seem tight in the bores and no lip or damage. Slight surface rusting on the bores though. Pics when I get it. Need to get - engine gasket and seal kit. Found one for $220 - everything including head gasket by Permaseal , had their head gasket in the TX5 so I know they are trustworthy. Head bolts $50 - cheap aftermarket - want quality ones may will up budget to $100. Also piston rings and bearings. Seen bearings for $50 not sure if I trust them and so far no luck with piston rings. I would get a new oil pump too, new accessory belts. Using water pump and cam belt again - because they were replaced at 116,186 km and the car has 146,271 kms so they *should* have another 50,000 kms of service left in them. Plan to spend $800 so by the time I get new parts including the long block I'm right on the limit. Oh and valve cover. I'm going to paint it. Similar to my TX5 one.
  6. Need help Pleaseee 2.0 fs no spark

    I'd check ECU outputs to ignition sources like starter, coil, distributor, just the ignition side. Don't know specifics myself regarding voltages - I'd start with ohms or watts see if anything is actually getting any current. You're right with 1995/6+ using crank angle sensors - the previous gen cars use cam angle sensors which can be located inside the distributor - not 100% sure on the early FS's. I take it the immobilizer would cut the signal to the cam angle sensor thus preventing the car starting. I think the problem could lie in here, a double check of the wiring may uncover a hidden problem. Are the harnesses from the same year? I would check on my GW but it has an aftermarket alarm/imobilizer and it has coils instead of a distributor so its not much help, My TX5 is FE-dohc and so not much help either.
  7. engine squeaks and overheats

    Bang on - its the bearings in the water pump starting to fail. You'll need a new pump. Since its over heated I suggest a new thermostat too. I'd check the accessory belts too.
  8. Need help Pleaseee 2.0 fs no spark

    Probably best to get a multi-meter and check if everything is getting the proper voltage. I'd pay special attention to anything from the ECU to anything related to spark - coil, cam position sensor, distributor - even though its replaced. One slightly pinched wire can cause a headache. Dist cap? Ignition leads? Many yeas ago I had a pinched coil pick up wire snap between the coil and ECU, had my car idling, shut a door or moved a seat and suddenly the car turned off and would not start. 3.75 Volts was not enough to send spark to it.
  9. Broke something, possibly outer CV or wheel hub. Took off from some lights and heard a clunk. Steering felt tight and hard to turn. Checked as best I could under the car. Tie rods, both inner and outer are tight. Steering rack bushes are sine, the nut it tight. Both axles feel very loose in the hubs though. Manage to drive it home, very dodgy as it kept wandering around and would clunk if I turned excessively. Had to back off the throttle in order to turn to prevent clunking, hence I'm thinking outer CV's or wheel bearing or hub. I'll jack it up and have a good look when I get some time soon.
  10. 4 week drive

    Depends. Any generic 323,626 or 6 etc will not be 4 or all wheel drive, unless it is a specific trim or model and it has been optioned. It will likely be a JDM car as well. 323/Familia's you'll need to find a BMFR (1986). GTX on the BG chassis can be awd (1990-1996). JDM SP20 (Protege) Is optioned with awd(1998-2003). 626 - will have to be JDM optioned import from GD onwards (1987-1992). Really don't know about GE's (1992-1997). GF/GW a JDM option (1997-2001). They are around but not easy to find. MazdaSpeed 6 is all wheel drive. Mazdaspeed 3 is fwd. Bounty and BT50 can be 4 wheel drive too. edit - saw this is 1993-2002 - yes GF/GW (1997)+ can be. It will have to be a JDM car. It may also have the KL (V6) as well. Mostly wagons. Haven't seen any awd sedans myself.
  11. Fricken good motor.

    Lol maybe not since its JDM. Still a slusher which doesn't change when I want or need it too
  12. Protege motor question

    No shunning from me. Great little cars at all Protege 5/ Familia or 323 SP20. I really want to pinch some parts off one - strut brace, fogs for my wagon. Anyway between the FS-ZE and DE the only differences are the camshafts, pistons, intake manifold and ecu which gives it higher compression on ZE vs the DE. The head gasket will be the same.
  13. Fricken good motor.

    Generally I agree. I like Mazda's a definite fan I like MX'5 and 6's, RX7/8's as well as the 3 and 6 and MPS/Mazdaspeed cars - I've had a couple of 323's - obviously 626's and Telstars too. My 1995 GE mtx Telstar had a good FS-DE in it - never leaked or burned with over 200,000 kms with 10-40 oil. I think the FS 2.0 I4 is a backward step in my honest opinion - its like it has paper mache valve stem seals, cardboard piston rings and plastic rods compared to its predecessor is not quite as strong as the FE dohc is. The internals of the FE are bigger and look to be better engineered and valve seals and rings are not stuffed so early on - in my experience. They are more prone to warp when overheated but as long as they are kept at temp with good fluids they will run hard all day long. Put a turbo on it and it can take it, 10 psi with a custom tune - its all in the tune - gearbox will die before the engine will. FS 136 hp good mid range torque, runs of of puff in upper rps, reasonable in its day for what it is, or maybe its because mines a slush box. Can't remember how my 5 speed one went it was too long ago. I thought my TX5 felt a bit quicker though and power felt like it was even right through the rev range with the FE dohc. Even auto Fe-dohc's seem to have a slight edge although I've only driven 2 - this is to an atx FS-DE. The rods in a FS hate boost and will bend and break far earlier compared with the FE. I'm slightly miffed I guess as my FS in the wagon does not even have 150,00 kms and yet it uses more oil than my 330,000 km FE3. Yeah the FE uses oil at higher rpms but its older with twice the mileage which is expected. It doesn't use any these days because I granny it compared to how the poor thing was driven when I was younger. I don't hate the FS. I can see why it was made the way it is - FE is a bulletproof (to an extent) Over engineered beast which would cost more to build per car. I just find the lack of power curve and the loss of 10-15 hp a backwards step. Surprisingly the gearbox in the TX5 is original with 330,000 kms. It does have worn synchros now and may need the odd double clutch but it still works, even after dumb young hoon things as you do when young, so I credit Mazda for that they made a strong N/A G series gearbox, usually that kills them maybe I'm lucky. I've broken an axle some how with that carry on, yet the gearbox is fine many years later. C4DE is possibly the worst Auto on the planet - but that is Fords gearbox. Not hating Fords - I like them too, just not that crappy gearbox. Luckily the wagons one seems to be problem free. It will be serviced during the engine rebuild which will hopefully keep it that way.
  14. Speedometer is dead, everything else works

    Speedo cable drive to gearbox loose? I circled it in red. If not, check connection behind dashboard. It may have stripped out the the speedo drive mechanism which is a little cog which turns the cable, screws into the gearbox. Also if the cable is internally damaged it will not work. Failing that the gauge cluster may have a fault although I'd say its unlikely and more a drive or a cable issue.
  15. 1997 Capella S/W with Mazdaspeed goodness

    So I did a quick backyard test to see which cylinders were leaking and if it was a ring or valve problem. After the car was parked overnight I took out all the spark plugs. Oil will mean leaky valve stem seals. Put the plugs back start the car, let it run for a minute turn it off take plugs out. Wet again and its possibly rings. Cylinders 1 and 4 are dry. 2 is the worst one - completely full of oil. And it was still wet on the second check. 3 was wet initially but it seems the rings are in better shape. So it needs valve seals - which I expected. Worries there would be more rings but it seems like #2 is the most worn. I didn't really bother with individual pictures of 1 and 4 since they aren't problematic and look how they should look oil free: This is what you don't want to see - this is my most worn cylinder #2. Left is before I started the car - right is after, can still see it smoking Cylinder #3 before start was like 2 but with less oil. It was not full of oil just a little damp: #2 spark plug #3 plug Yeah they need changing. Plugs 1 and 4 were much the same - very worn and without oil.