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About GT_FE3

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    1989 MTX FE Dohc GD Sporthatch, 1997 GF Wagon FS Dohc ATX

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    Auckland New Zealand

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  1. 1997 Capella S/W with Mazdaspeed goodness

    Can not stand the 4 speed slusher on this. Useless to me - it works and changes good but I hate not being able to choose when/where I want to change gears myself. I find myself thinking I'd have changed gear now or I wish it would change later. Driving this engine until it dies. The only FE-dohc engine some guy has build and wants $3000 for it along with a rwd gearbox and will only sell it whole. ABS lights were because of the ABS pump. Heap of money wasting crap. Sort of fixed for now. This just drives and feels like an unresponsive appliance - sure its good for its age and mileage. I'd feel a bit more warmth towards it if it was 5 speed, maybe. The unfortunate truth is that motorcycles have my soul. I get on my CBR and I just cringe when I have to use this. I look at the TX5 and I want to fix it. Funds are not there though. No one can tell me if GE spider gears will work in a GD gearbox which is a pain - I've hit the wall at the research stage. If I knew, I would get a junkyard box, swap spider gears over. Sure its not elaborate but at least it would be drive able once again.
  2. Clutch sticking to the ground

    Pressure plate, release bearing?
  3. 1997 Capella S/W with Mazdaspeed goodness

    Well I've been lazy - nothing on the engine except today I gave it new spark plugs. It does smoke occasionally, not as bad on start up as the pictures now. A bit on deceleration. Using 15 w 40 oil. Using less between changes now but its still using a bit - 500 odd ml in 6,000 kms. Should get a new PCV - sprayed it with carb cleaner helped clean it a bit but it should be replaced. Took out the scungy air filter. Alternator and PS belts are worn and need replacing. Have to send it in Monday to get it road legal. Registered but not gone over the pits. ABS and traction lights come on randomly sometimes which is an un-needed pain it the bum. ECU related cos if you restart it, they will turn off. Spent money on a new bike - it was a damn good deal but it has impacted on car stuff, mainly the Capella. I am having a very hard time getting another 5 speed gearbox for the TX5.
  4. Djdevon3's Recognizer

    Good to hear from you again DJ. Can relate to life getting between projects, watching as you update.
  5. Turn outs (lol) Steering is ok. What I thought was an inner CV is actually stripped splines in the spider gears, pronounced clunking on turns, it was rattly as the axles turned with the car on jackstands. The synchomesh has had it. Gearbox will need replacing or rebuilding. It did last from 1989 until November 2017. 10 years and 100,000 kms with me, though my young dumb burnout years. For this gearbox it really is some kind of milestone. This good old beast will be back. I just got a new motorbike a CBR600, had I discovered it the gearbox was dying I'd have waited on another bike and fixed it. Oh well. Trying to find another box or maybe diff from a GE and do some trickery. It'll be a little while before its going again.
  6. Forgot to take pics. Jacked the car up, ps fluid is in both rack boots - the teflon seal inside the rack is damaged. It also clunks as the steering is turned, possible damage or contamination which had damaged the spool valves inside. Anyway its looked it the steering rack has to come out. It'll need new tie rods - both inner and outers, new boots and bushes and that is a few $$ before I even get to the rack.
  7. 2.0 FS-DE swap help

    Thread on it. Section 9 on the bottom has what needs to be changed.
  8. 2.0 FS-DE swap help

    Don't need anything custom. Suggest a half cut or donor car. Will need engine mounts, wiring + ecu, axles - spline count and size will likely be different as well as size and lengths, maybe stuff like hubs too. You'd want brakes too as the KL has more power.
  9. Need help Pleaseee 2.0 fs no spark PMX626 from it should have something
  10. 1997 Capella S/W with Mazdaspeed goodness

    A couple of days ago, the radiator started leaking. I got a used replacement which had been checked over for $90. A new one is over $200 and I need money to fund the engine refresh. Put in the replacement, which also leaked I noticed a day later. I had some trapped air which caused the fans to run continuously and the engine to get warm way quicker than normal and threaten to overheat if I didn't use the heater. Took the dud replacement radiator back, got the one I was mean to have - its is slightly used but the plastic looks brand new and the core is super clean with no bent fins at all! Almost brand new radiator for $90! They are $220 new for a genuine one or $150 for a cheap aftermarket one which I wasn't too keen on, so I reckon I did well with that. Spent more time bleeding air when refilling coolant. It runs perfect, halfway on the gauge and zero leaks. Pity I need to top the oil up again. I've done barely 3,000 km's since I serviced it. Smokes on start up, on throttle and deceleration now. Always a blue cloud behind me so I need to do something. I am buying a long block FS which had rod knock for $100. This is a basic built to factory spec build for as cheap as I can. If I can re use parts I will - pistons namely. I got the head today which has been planed and pressure tested and had valve seals replaced a couple of years ago - in go my lifters and cams so no need for valve seals! I'm using parts from mine and parts from the long block to make one good engine. Obviously due to knock I'm using my crank, I get the block included but he has to get it out of the car first. Pistons seem tight in the bores and no lip or damage. Slight surface rusting on the bores though. Pics when I get it. Need to get - engine gasket and seal kit. Found one for $220 - everything including head gasket by Permaseal , had their head gasket in the TX5 so I know they are trustworthy. Head bolts $50 - cheap aftermarket - want quality ones may will up budget to $100. Also piston rings and bearings. Seen bearings for $50 not sure if I trust them and so far no luck with piston rings. I would get a new oil pump too, new accessory belts. Using water pump and cam belt again - because they were replaced at 116,186 km and the car has 146,271 kms so they *should* have another 50,000 kms of service left in them. Plan to spend $800 so by the time I get new parts including the long block I'm right on the limit. Oh and valve cover. I'm going to paint it. Similar to my TX5 one.
  11. Need help Pleaseee 2.0 fs no spark

    I'd check ECU outputs to ignition sources like starter, coil, distributor, just the ignition side. Don't know specifics myself regarding voltages - I'd start with ohms or watts see if anything is actually getting any current. You're right with 1995/6+ using crank angle sensors - the previous gen cars use cam angle sensors which can be located inside the distributor - not 100% sure on the early FS's. I take it the immobilizer would cut the signal to the cam angle sensor thus preventing the car starting. I think the problem could lie in here, a double check of the wiring may uncover a hidden problem. Are the harnesses from the same year? I would check on my GW but it has an aftermarket alarm/imobilizer and it has coils instead of a distributor so its not much help, My TX5 is FE-dohc and so not much help either.
  12. engine squeaks and overheats

    Bang on - its the bearings in the water pump starting to fail. You'll need a new pump. Since its over heated I suggest a new thermostat too. I'd check the accessory belts too.
  13. Need help Pleaseee 2.0 fs no spark

    Probably best to get a multi-meter and check if everything is getting the proper voltage. I'd pay special attention to anything from the ECU to anything related to spark - coil, cam position sensor, distributor - even though its replaced. One slightly pinched wire can cause a headache. Dist cap? Ignition leads? Many yeas ago I had a pinched coil pick up wire snap between the coil and ECU, had my car idling, shut a door or moved a seat and suddenly the car turned off and would not start. 3.75 Volts was not enough to send spark to it.
  14. Broke something, possibly outer CV or wheel hub. Took off from some lights and heard a clunk. Steering felt tight and hard to turn. Checked as best I could under the car. Tie rods, both inner and outer are tight. Steering rack bushes are sine, the nut it tight. Both axles feel very loose in the hubs though. Manage to drive it home, very dodgy as it kept wandering around and would clunk if I turned excessively. Had to back off the throttle in order to turn to prevent clunking, hence I'm thinking outer CV's or wheel bearing or hub. I'll jack it up and have a good look when I get some time soon.
  15. 4 week drive

    Depends. Any generic 323,626 or 6 etc will not be 4 or all wheel drive, unless it is a specific trim or model and it has been optioned. It will likely be a JDM car as well. 323/Familia's you'll need to find a BMFR (1986). GTX on the BG chassis can be awd (1990-1996). JDM SP20 (Protege) Is optioned with awd(1998-2003). 626 - will have to be JDM optioned import from GD onwards (1987-1992). Really don't know about GE's (1992-1997). GF/GW a JDM option (1997-2001). They are around but not easy to find. MazdaSpeed 6 is all wheel drive. Mazdaspeed 3 is fwd. Bounty and BT50 can be 4 wheel drive too. edit - saw this is 1993-2002 - yes GF/GW (1997)+ can be. It will have to be a JDM car. It may also have the KL (V6) as well. Mostly wagons. Haven't seen any awd sedans myself.