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About GT_FE3

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    panther black 1989 GD Hatch 5 speed fe3n

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    Auckland New Zealand
  1. To answer my question - yes and no. Some countries - yes put them in, retro fit seat belts and enjoy. NZ's red tape crap - waste almost a third of the price as the car is worth ($600) to get a dumb vehicle certificate. Yes if I want to spend $3000 on a 20+ year old Mazda - nothing wrong with old Mazda's they are brilliant! But $3000 is not what I call a cheap learner car, I'm thinking half that at least. Best to wait for a legit one to come up
  2. Vintage plates and rules sound like a real pain
  3. I'm just wondering if this has been done? Seems to use the wheel well for leg room once the boot carpet and spare wheel cover is removed? I'll get some tyre foam for in case of a flat. It's a bit hard to find a factory GV 7 seat wagon for a decent price. which would be perfect for a family hack and learner runabout car. Why? *Need a cheap auto car for step son to learn to drive in. Step son has no interest in manual his words finds it far too difficult. Wife is scared of manual in traffic and doesn't like it much. A pity this in manual would be perfection for the circumstances. *Need 7 seats. Hate minivans and SUVs to me they drive like crap and under powered if 4 cylinder, but I prefer 4 cylinders because fuel is a rip off. I use my motorbike if its only me. *Ford Falcon is too big according to wife and stepson. Plus dumb old NZ keep taking away LPG pumps - Falcon is dedicated LPG, finding fuel absolutely sucks. I'd love a petrol Falcon - big, comfortable, handles nicely - but a 4 litre 6 cylinder at $2.10 a liter is too expensive. With LPG at $1.38 a litre the wagon takes 115 litres to fill $150 and you get 460 km around town, not that we do its $20 here and $30 there. Long trip 750 km it is amazing on long trips. F8/Fe-dohc gets a tick from me, decent power for a stock 4 cylinder and not bad on fuel for what they are about $85 for a full tank about 500 km in the city give or take and 620km on long trip. I can live with auto I guess it is just one sacrifice.
  4. Right so I've decided the easy way - TD04/5 , stock cast iron Mitsi 4-9 exhaust manifold, found a cheap one. Maybe stock Evo 4 rail and injectors too, haven't got to full researching fuel rails and injectors. I already have a FE3 flange which I will get welded. Possibly more cast welding trickery with a stock down pipe. Yes I know I can flow way more etc get better power with custom stuff but I want a clean looking engine bay and want to retain the heat shield with the only real giveaways being bling IC hoses and BOV and possibly wastegate. Thinking about adding Mazda 323 GTR vents to the bonnet to aid cooling. Just the side ones moved into the middle by the exhaust manifold for aesthetics/cooling later when the turbo stuff is all done or maybe Evo style. Lol not trying to build an evo, just a few parts seem to match somewhat easily. Might just leave bonnet alone - F2T's have turbos and don't need vents.
  5. This but with lower boost since 10:1 CR. With welded diff. I am going to play with gearboxes, seems like I'm looking for V6 internals. Can't see them fitting but that's what I'll find out when I find a cheap one. Edit - so I'm not making another post. I'll add this to stiffen it up. Will work on 626's as well. Will get that much later once turbo stuff is all done. Have discovered Evo 8/9 manifold pretty much fits the FE3. Some die grinding needed. I'm looking towards cast for longevity. Found some mild steel ones new for $400 but they look very average. $600 for cast. Turbo options are at TD04/05 - easy since Mitsi manifold but I'd perfer Garret T28 - ball bearing for durability plus good for my lower power goals so possibly a RB25 Skyline turbo may find its way in. Likely heading for used and rebuild. GT2860 is still an option $600 new - 250-400 hp though and I'll be getting 220 tops, so its a bit of a waste with such a big turbo.
  6. Different ratios between the GE FS and the K series. Fe dohc - 3.307 First, 1.833 second, 1.310 third, 1.030 fourth, 0.837 5th - 4.105 final drive. FS dohc - 3.310, 1.833 1.23, 0.91,0.72 (0.92 on GF series) K series - 3.310, 1.833, 1.31, 1.030, 0.80. Its third that strips and usually after crazy power like 450 nm. Might just weld the pin in my current box - the other archillies heel and not be too hard with it. I'm not going for huge power anyway.
  7. This wonderful link contains information on welding the diff pins. I am considering this option. Cheapest GE 5 speed I found was $95 and it has 287 kms, not hard to find I just wanted one free or next to free (broken) Just for comparison. Decisions. Maybe if I can swap in GE internals if they fit and weld GE diff pin. If I do I'd like a box with less than 287 k's Should be strong enough then. Better upgrade the oem Exeddy to stage 1, will do this when I start on the gearbox.
  8. Great guide but it is F2 to F2T. I'm running FE3 and wanting to know which is the best high flowing and reliable turbo I can use for lower boost.
  9. I really don't know. I'll find another box if I can find one cheap and compare, may go with welding if its cheaper. $120 at pick a part, mazda wreckers $450...... lol I want a cheap stuffed one for comparison. Likely I'll get the pin welded, be gentle and pray
  10. I am going to turbo my 1989 10:1 FE3 TX5 - think Euro or Jap 626 GT sport hatch. It has 270,000 km's on the engine - 320 km+ on the body so I'll be vacuum, pressure and compression testing to see if it healthy enough for this task, may freshen it - bearings rings valve seals if the engine needs it. I know the internals can handle around 300+ hp so I'll leave them. Wide band, MS2 tuned by a pro. I am limited by the high CR ratio but more so the gearbox so I can't run huge boost which is fine - ball park is around 200 whp around 8-10 psi, this is really safe, so if I can go 220 hp and 12-14 psi I will - stock Evo 1 spec pretty much. Why? I just want some boost, turbo sound, the push into the seat. This car is usually just paraded around in, go to car meets, sometimes daily driven, the occasional track day I'd like to keep reliability and just enhance the driving dynamics over maximum power. Is there much benefit to a ball bearing turbo eg GT2860 vs the TD04-05 series or T3/4 hybrid? I'm leaning towards ball bearing - durability and less oil needed to lube them, apparently fewer parts but if anyone hasn't had problems with others. Ideally smaller A/R ratio for quicker spool, going to have rev limiter set at 6,800, likely it'll be almost out of puff by then anyway, this is probably safe again. I may upgrade in future - lsd or gearbox conversion, so I would want a bigger better flowing turbo and more power. Ideally I'd like to go brand new, doesn't have to be legit brand like HKS, Garret, but I don't want cheap no name junk for $199. Stuff like Kinugawa, Turbonetics are fine. Ebay has so many for cheap! I can get stuff from Aus for 1/3rd off what is here in NZ. Good used genuine (Garret, HKS) acceptable, I may consider one which needs a rebuild. Is this best done by a pro, is the cost worth it? I have done an engine rebuild on a B5 so I know what to look for but I know I'd like a bit more experience before I go and do this on my car.
  11. Will need a custom adapter for sure, possible flywheel fiddling too. Possible fabrication trickery for the shifter linkages as well. 6 speed with LSD would be ideal, better ratios and longer drive which would be fantastic, then it could handle more boost I'd stick around 16-18 psi, maximum of 20psi and aim for 285 whp. I can't find an LSD so I'm not aiming for huge power/big boost, 10 -12 psi for safe reliable daily driving and possibly 14 psi absolute maximum if everything can handle it. I'm aiming for around 220 whp, more or less this all I can make as I am limited due to the driveline. Don't mind running 95/98 fuel. Already though by the time all is said and done its $5,500. Bear in mind this is overkill and future proofed so if in future I want to upgrade I can $1,950 for MS2 including final tuning/dyno, $300 wide band kit, $400 inter cooler and piping, $700 for a turbo - TD05 16g but I would consider a good genuine used one if less $$ and possibly a smaller turbo, $200 fuel pump Walbro 255 lph, $200 for a fuel pressure reg kit, $200 for an oil line kit, $600 to have this conversion certified $3955 so far. The parts I'm not so sure on and will likely use the remaining $1500 are: Wastegate: $400 budgeted not sure if a cheap one will be ok BOV - if I can use the stock turbo one I will, if not can get a new HKS for $150 Injectors. Stock evo 4-5 510-520cc should be ok for now $200, rail $200 but for $60 more I can get an AEM rail which will help if I go to bigger injectors later, IF I do the gearbox and want to up the boost I will need 1000cc to be safe as I'll be around 20 psi max although run a normal "safe" tune of 16-18 psi for daily. Manifold. Nothing off the shelf - will have to get one made. Evo spec with FE3 flange? The gearbox information I stumbled on from probetalk which I'll do before adding any psi - maybe after MS and wideband - the first 2 mods which will go in. The n/a is a G type like the 2nd gen trannies, and the GT is an H type. Everything is bigger in the H type, and the diffs do not interchange whatsoever. However, not all g series trans are created equal. The n/a 1G diff is a joke compared the the 2nd gen. In so much as it would be an upgrade to put the 2nd gen open diff into the 1g n/a. Yeah the ring gear is different between the 4 cyl and V6 2nd gen, but if you were to take all the guts out of either they will swap into either case. I know a guy that did this, and I tried it for myself and it does indeed work. I was shocked when I first saw how much smaller the 1G n/a diff was compared to all the 2nd gen ones I had seen, considering they are both G type. Since they are G type, theoretically it will swap, however would likely mean still needing to keep the 1G ring gear. The GT diff is of course bigger than the G type 2nd gen diff, but not by a lot. Either way they are not interchangeable anyways. A very good solution to the pinion shaft breaking is to a) weld it into the differential housing or b) drill and put another roll pin on the other side of it. I have had good results with welding mine. I've toasted 4 motors and 2 sets of 3rd gears, but never a diff.
  12. Oh screw 5 years lol. I'm going to do a compression, vacuum and leak down test the next time I'm able to see it. Nothing is really "wrong" I want to see how this engine is because it's just time I made this thing go as good as it looks, which means BOOST. Yes, this is actually happening. No talking or dreaming, this is really happening but I'd freshen the engine up first if it needs it before introducing added pressure. I may even do this as future proofing. I'm at tafe doing automotive engineering, rebuilt and engine - B5 dohc Mazda lol! It had a warped block and had thrown a bearing making a big hole near cyl #4 so it was a practise engine, but I know what too look for and how to measure, so I can put what I know into reality. I've just finsihed rebuilding a gearbox today. By boost I mean a safe 10 or if it can 12 psi - basically a stock turbo 2.0 litre spec. I don't really want to get forged internals so anything around 200 hp is fine - I just want some cool turbo sounds and a bit of extra go - I'm not out for peak power as this is a daily/weekend car and I want reliability. I have set my sights on a td04 or td05. Preference for 05 or something in similar size which is reliable and not worn or cheap ebay crap. Small supporting mods first. Wide band is top of the list, obviously. MS will find its way in as the ECU, I'll send it to get tuned properly. I will need bigger injectors and fpr, intercooler, piping, oil feed lines, wastegate, bov, manifold and the whole 9 yards. The big hurdle is this 26 spline glass gearbox. I know FE3's are robust, I've seen a stock 10:1 just like this with 21 psi make just under 300 hp at the wheels on a dyno, with a 6speed corolla lsd box in it. I don't mind swapping gearbox internals over from say a GE 626 - I hear they are the same and the open diff is stronger. Is this a good idea? I know LSD would be ideal but really hard to find. I don't really want to shell out heaps for engineering to get another box to fit, but if it comes to that then I may get a better flowing turbo and set power goals closer to this benchmark. The other is the expense of fabricating a turbo manifold. The gearbox will need a good look at before I start. Driveable, but its whining a bit and it will crunch when driven hard. I usually drive it softly so its fine, double clutch, revmatch nothing over 4,000 rpm... but I know one cold night I'll want to rev it and get on boost and it will shatter on me and I'd rather prevent that.
  13. I still have this awesome car, it once again is in hibernation for this year as I don't have the space for 2 cars and I will never sell no matter what. Sadly the Yamaha is going, because I am working towards my full license and I need a bigger bike for pillioning and a 18,000 rpm 250 screamer isn't going to be able to do that. When I find pics of the custom fairings and paint I'll post them - it does not look like an 80's sportsbike anymore. Anyway I drove the TX5 for a good while through 2015/16, had some problems with the slave cylinder and pressure plate, which have been fixed. Gearbox isn't quite a tight as I remember, its best to change slow and double clutch these days, downshifting from 5th to 3rd will crunch, even with rev matching. It can do with new shifter bushes as its really loose. Poor car, it has to have one of the strongest Mazda boxes (lol!) Considering I did all sorts of dumb things all those years ago - typical dumb teenage hooning crap which resulted in damaged axles and a cv joint once. Tough old bird survived that. Getting old and I think its too loud with a pod and no mufflers, so I'm going to put the airbox back and add a couple of high flow mufflers underneath. Louder than stock but not loud so I am heard 4 blocks away. The remus will always stay no matter what! Better part of 327,000 kms now some slight oil loss when revved in the higher RPMs, nothing huge half a litre between services. When the timing belt is due I'll give it a freshen up - rings, bearings, stem seals. At this rate because I last drove it 8 months ago properly not just a dodgy trip to the gas station and 2 laps of the block every other week, I'll say another 5 years time.
  14. Pull the saggy material off. All the foam and crud underneath has to come off too.When its back to cardboard, use some Ados high strength/heavy duty spray glue. make sure its heavy duty or high strength or it won't hold. Spray it on te cardboard evenly as possible.. Get someone to help you stretch the new fabric and spread it over the glued cardboard. You can do it alone but its harder and you'll end up with wrinkles - happened to me I did it alone I didn't mind the wrinkles too much though.