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snailman153624

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Everything posted by snailman153624

  1. Technically, I did this on my MX-6; the Probe uses the same regulator assembly, and the 626 and many other cars have a very similar setup. The Problem: My driver's window fell down inside the door (again, *sigh*); the steel cable that is used to pull it up or down (via the electric motor) had become dislodged (again), so I ordered a new regulator assembly ($240, ouch!), since my previous repair only lasted ~1.5 years. The new regulator included a new motor and steel cables, as well as the guide rail, but not the bracket with slides/rollers that actually move up and down inside the track. This bracket is bolted to the window itself. If your car is like mine, it's ~17 years old at this point, and my original rollers/slides were brittle and cracked, particularly the ones in the powered track (there are two tracks to hold the window level as it moves up and down...the main one has the motor on it). Junk yard ones would probably be in similar if not worse shape, and I couldn't find this part new anywhere. The Solution: I found some nylon furniture feet/sliders that had the exact diameter and thickness that I needed at the local home improvement store. They cost around $2 or $3. I then drilled out the center (and removed the nail) to match the OD of the pins they have to fit over...IIRC it was a 3/8" drill bit, but always double-check; I recommend using a step drill or larger bit to also slightly countersink the face (I didn't do this, and wish I had) so that the roller can be spaced a little further from the bracket. I then took a rotary type tool and ground off most of the lip on the roller pin/stud (left enough of a nub so that the rollers wouldn't fall off, but could be pressed over them). I used a couple of copper washers (old ones from brake banjo bolts in my case) to space the roller away from the bracket, as they had a large enough ID to fit over the pin/stud. As mentioned above, it should have been just a little further from the bracket, so my window tilts inwards slightly, but it's not a big deal. I also had to slightly bend the cable guide bracket due to the tighter clearance (this is probably unique to the MX-6). I then pressed the new rollers on with a C clamp and some channel-lock pliers. Here are some pictures of the finished product: The window is nice and tight again!
  2. snailman153624

    Strut & Spring Replacement

    If you've been contemplating upgrading your suspension (or replacing your worn out springs and/or struts), hopefully this thread will help you out. Vehicle and Pre-Installation Notes: 1996 Mazda MX-6 LS 2.5L V6 MTX w/o ABS NOTE: This procedure should be the same for all '93+ 626/MX-6/Probe models, 4 cyl. and V6 alike, although vehicles with ABS will need the sensor removed from the strut prior to strut removal. This procedure in general applies to any car with a McPherson Strut suspension. I replaced my factory suspension with an aftermarket Tokico "Advanced Handling" (a.k.a. "Blue") suspension kit, which I ordered from http://www.probegarage.com . I am not (and nor is this site) in any way affilliated with probegarage, I'm merely indicating this for reference; they had these on special for $460, shipping included, for all four struts and all four springs. I reused the factory strut isolators (mounts), boots, bump stops, top perches, and rubber seat inserts. The only new parts (in this tutorial anyhow) were the struts and springs themselves, and the strut mount [thrust] bearings on the front struts. I also installed the rear strut brace which I saved from my [totalled] 626, and this is entirely optional as well. If you have new mounts and mount bearings, along with boots, bumpstops, and rubber seat inserts, you will NOT need to disassemble your old struts because you will not need to salvage any old parts. Tools Required: -14mm, 17mm, 19mm and 21mm sockets and/or box wrenches -Pliers and/or screwdriver (to pry off the brake line clips) -Coil spring compressor kit (I loaned mine at Advance Auto Parts) -Jack, jackstands, and wheel chocks (or some other means of safely lifting the vehicle off the ground with no load on the suspension corner you are working on) -Impact wrench and air compressor (recommended) -Degreaser/parts cleaner, rags (recommended) -Corrosion-inhibiting lubricant (recommended) The instructions below are for informational purposes only; I am not liable for any injuries or damage, or anything else for that matter, from use of this information. *****DO NOT REMOVE THE STRUT TOP NUT UNTIL YOU HAVE SAFELY COMPRESSED THE SPRING***** Also, the images shown are reduced in size; if you need a full-resolution image to see some detail, a link is provided below each image. Please do NOT click on a full-size image unless you need it, you are eating up my bandwidth and server resources (which I pay for out of my own pocket).
  3. http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/ This is the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration site. They force manufacturers to do recalls on a car if there is a consistent defect found in an automobile that affects the safety of the vehicle. If everyone who has had a transmission problem registers here you might be able to force Mazda/Ford to recall the transmission and get reimbursed for past repairs, and possibly get a brand new upgraded transmission. I encourage all of you who have had any transmission problems to register. B)
  4. snailman153624

    626 Stereo Wiring Diagram

    Ok, so since I was soldering a bunch of wires behind my dash today [installing component speakers and custom mounting the Infinity tweeters....] I figured I might as well write down the ACTUAL wiring colors in my 1994 626 V6 M/T. The guide I used to install my radio initially was from http://www.installdr.com The pinout is correct but the colors are completely wrong, plus they leave out some optional wires. These are the wires located directly behind the radio in the dashboard. Here is what I discovered: Car:...........Aftermarket Radio:.............Function blue/white......red.....................................+12V ignition [switched] blue/red..........yellow................................+12V battery [constant] orange............orange...............................+12V headlight switched [for dimmer function] red/green........blue/white.........................+12V remote/power antenna lead blue/green......white.................................Left Front Speaker (+) blue/black.......gray..................................Right Front Speaker (+) blue................white/black.......................Left Front Speaker (-) blue/orange....gray/black.........................Right Front Speaker (-) green/black.....green...............................Left Rear Speaker (+) green/orange..green/black......................Left Rear Speaker (-) yellow/green....purple.............................Right Rear Speaker (+) <---may have been green/yellow hard to tell green..............purlple/black......................Right Rear Speaker (-) The ground wire is the thicker black [may have stripe] cable with a female spade connector on the end of it. Anyway, this should help you folks [like me] who don't have the factory harness in their cars. BTW I tested all of my amps and they all sound fantastic
  5. snailman153624

    Cleaning Your Nasty Piss-yellow Headlights

    "How?" you might ask. "I didn't know it was POSSIBLE to clean up my nasty yellow headlights," you might say. "Is this guy telling the truth?" you might wonder. I am here to say, NO, I'm not making this up, YES, it works (!), and here's how: (Ok, this is really starting to sound like an infomercial...maybe I went a lil' overboard) 1 - Buy this fantastic product called "Chrome Polish" (blackshine007 used one made by Turtle Wax, $3 at Wal-Mart) 2 - Find a cheap rag (your roommate's sock drawer is a good place to look) 3 - "Wax on, wax off" 4 - It's that simple! I'll put up some before and after pics, they look like crystal clear glass again! Sadly, the rest of my car is still dirty
  6. snailman153624

    Cam and Crank

    I don't know what you mean by mag type. They are electrical, so electro magnetism is involved.....but they are VR (variable reluctance) sensors. The pre '98 models used hall effect sensors inside the distributors, and VR sensors on the crank.
  7. snailman153624

    V6 Non-interference

    http://www.mazdausa.com/MusaWeb/displayPag...ntactVehicle626 From the horse's mouth. End of debate. Period.
  8. snailman153624

    01' 626 V6 Manual 2.5L Burning Out Starters, Need Advice

    I doubt they've been waiting for over 4 years for a reply...
  9. snailman153624

    V6 Non-interference

    Having owned several ZE's, I can tell you a stock ZE is definitely non-intereference. Perhaps the motor you had problems with had modified cams (i.e. increased lift)?
  10. snailman153624

    Multiple Organ Failure

    You sure your crank pulley hasn't simply separated? This could cause all kinds of problems as well.
  11. snailman153624

    RockAuto.com Wholesaler Closeout Parts RSS/HTML Instant Feed!

    Just used this, an extra 5% off is nice! Also, they have a really good deal on oil filters for our cars. Genuine motorcraft filters (look under the KL V6 model, those also fit the 4 cyl but are bigger and can trap more dirt), genuine Denso filters, and Wix (rebranded) filters for dirt cheap. I think I paid < $2 a piece for a few filters.
  12. snailman153624

    Strut & Spring Replacement

    I fixed all the images again (yay!). I seriously hope this is the last time I ever need to do that haha.
  13. I have two Eristic gasket sets for the 2.5L. One set is complete, with MLS head gaskets, square runner intake gaskets, exhaust gaskets, valve cover gaskets and grommets, and what looks to be a thermostat housing gasket. It also has the front and rear main oil seals, the upper and lower oil pan/block gaskets, and a bunch of other engine gaskets. The other kit has MLS head gaskets, exhaust gaskets, and just the front valve cover gasket, and a few misc o-rings. One complete kit costs over $100, check around for yourself. Should work for 93-02 V6 models, including the 626, MX6, and Millenia, although the intake gaskets are specific to square runner manifolds. I will take $80 shipped for all of it.
  14. snailman153624

    FS KL Gasket sets, fuel sender, cheap

    $75 shipped for all this stuff!
  15. snailman153624

    FS KL Gasket sets, fuel sender, cheap

    Bumpety bump.
  16. AST or air separator tank. Last time I replaced mine, which was about five years ago, it was around $75 at the dealer.
  17. snailman153624

    FS KL Gasket sets, fuel sender, cheap

  18. snailman153624

    FS KL Gasket sets, fuel sender, cheap

    Also for sale is the fuel tank sending unit, complete with misc. hardware and hoses, tank gasket, fuel pump mount, and wiring. I believe this is from a '93 MX-6, but I don't know for certain. It may very well be identical in many Mazdas, I don't know off-hand. Was a clean Florida car, and there is no rust. I hate to throw it away, but shipping isn't free either. $30 shipped by itself, or I can include it to whomever buys the gasket set for an additional $5. If someone buys all of this, I will throw in a few random goodies I still have laying around for free. I have an eBay polished AFPR (adjustable fuel pressure regulator), worked great but the pressure gauge failed (leaks internally) and needs to be replaced (you could also just cap the port after you've set your fuel pressure). I also saw a front swaybar bushing bracket. If I find any more Mazda parts I have no use for (the only Mazda I have left is the 2.0L FS Protege5) I'll throw them in as well. You guys will probably cry to hear that I scrapped a perfectly good V6 manual transmission with only 100k miles for a measly $15 the last time I had to clean out my garage (I was moving, didn't have time to find a buyer). Don't let good parts go to waste! Paypal or check accepted (but you will have to wait for the check to clear before I ship anything).
  19. snailman153624

    Is The KLZE Compatible With The 2.0 I4 MTX

    While the internals of the 2L and 2.5L mtx are compatible, the bellhousing between the two is different. You will need to get a transmission out of a 2.5, and probably axles...the v6 axles are thicker to handle more torque.
  20. snailman153624

    Shifting/gauge problems

    The speed sensor is a big clue. Of rf the computer is getting faulty readings about how fast it thinks the car is moving it may shift into the wrong gear unexpectedly.
  21. snailman153624

    Timing Belt Replacement

    Rattles over small bumps are almost always worn sway bar bushings. Bummer about the gf.
  22. snailman153624

    New start issue :(:(

    Glad you got it figured out. Sometimes it really is that simple :)
  23. snailman153624

    Camshaft Pulley

    Do you need to remove the cam pulleys? Why not just remove the cams with the pulleys still attached? Or are there some cam bearing cap bolts hidden where you can't get to them? It's been a while since I tore open a KL. Either way, I remember I used a giant adjustable wrench to hold the cam, and a regular socket wrench to pop the bolts loose. It might help if you still have the timing belt on, too (and put it in gear with the parking brake set and some wheel chocks to keep the motor from turning...this works only if it's a manual transmission tho...if you have an auto, you'll probably need to put a breaker on the crank pulley bolt and prop that against the control arm to hold the motor still).
  24. snailman153624

    The 'official' Bs Thread.

    That's the one, although mine came with two different sizes of the installer...I think the smaller one is mainly for Chrysler motors that use smaller bores. Iirc it was around 50 bucks like 10 years ago.
  25. snailman153624

    The 'official' Bs Thread.

    Get the magnetic one from lisle tool. Most awesome tool evarrrrrrrrrr
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