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Everything posted by ddq

  1. Thanks but I have already completed the proceedure in that link which is why I am asking about the circuit that uses the 'room' fuse.
  2. I have an 01 626 2.5. My new battery drains in about two days. It shows a 220mAmp draw until the 'room' fuse is pulled then it drops to 0. The door, dome and green light above the ignition switch all go off on a timer after about 20 seconds. The trunk light also goes off when the trunk is almost closed. Does anyone know any easy to test parts of this circuit where the drain may be coming from?
  3. My theory is that the ebay gaskets are made of a different rubber than oem, which shrinks after a short time of being exposed to heat. Even after only a few months of being on the car, when I removed the valve cover bolts I found two rows of bolts to be at less than 20 in/lbs. I know my torque on the bolts was to spec when I installed them using a calibrated wrench.
  4. Can I just order this, or any 5.25" bose speaker? https://www.ebay.com/itm/FACTORY-OEM-USED-98-04-Chevy-Corvette-C5-5-25-BOSE-Speaker-PN-10278959/221914527298?epid=1522949827&hash=item33ab22f642:g:koYAAOSw5VFWH8zP
  5. To update, the OEM valve cover gaskets have not leaked a drop in 400 miles since installing them. It is safe to say the ebay gaskets I used the three previous jobs are pure junk. However, I do have another leak from somewhere lower on the motor I need to find.
  6. Last night the passenger door speaker started sounding like crap. It about the only noise coming from it was "BLAHHH". The vehicle is a 01 626 ES with the bose system. I removed the speaker and it appears to be OK to me but I am not an audio guy and want to replace it. I have made multiple attempts to get in touch with the bose automotive section with no luck. Either nobody answers or the call gets dropped after two rings. Is there anywhere else I can find a new or used Bose speaker? On the magnet it says 149965 S80BB.
  7. Once the new bearing was in I put the c-clip back in its place. Then, I was ready to force the hub back into the inner race of the bearing. Any plate larger than the diameter of the inner bearing and smaller than the outer diameter of the bearing will work for this. Put the plate against the bearing on the tie rod side of the knuckle and make sure the raised side of the plate is facing is out. This way you can set the knuckle tie rod side down on a narrow (2x4) block of wood and the plate will be the only thing touching the wood. What you are trying to accomplish is when you hamme
  8. Once the old bearing was out I put some grease on the inside of the knuckle and got the new bearing ready to go in. I selected plate 955-17 to be the one to go against the new bearing. However, after multiple attempts to use the press and pull the bearing into the knuckle I realized it was not going to work. The bearing continued to get crooked in the knuckle and get stuck. I ended up only using plate 955-17 and my hammer to carefully drive it into the knuckle until seated.
  9. Under all the dirt in the first pic is a c-clip. A regular pair of needle nose pliars can get it out. This is where I deviated from the video I posted above. I used the same plates indicated in the vid, but used a hammer to drive the plate out completely. The cylinder in the second pic can not have another plate under it (there is another plate in my pic) or the bearing will hit it before it gets completely out. I used a hammer and NOT the press for the entire removal because the press kept getting stalled. I think it was pulling at a SLIGHT angle and getting the bearing cro
  10. These next pics are of the hub. The inner race of the old bearing will likely still be attached to the hub. I used an angle grinder, propane torch and chisel to remove the race. Be careful not to hit the hub with the cutting wheel. After cutting through the old race I used a chisel and my mini sledge to break the race loose to where I could pull it off the hub by hand. The torch helped.
  11. Once I had the knuckle on the bench I used an impact socket and a 4lb mini sledge to drive the knuckle out of the bearing. Let me elaborate since this is where I had been confused. So, this wheel bearing is a sealed unit. It has an inner race and outer race like most bearings. The entire bearing is pressed into the knuckle and secured with a c-clip. THEN, the hub (part with wheel studs) is pressed into the inside of the bearing (inner race). So, what we have is a bearing that requires a press for two different parts. Ill touch more on this later. With the knuckle sitti
  12. Once the tie rod end was loose, I removed the two 17mm bolts and nuts attaching the shock to the knuckle. Then, I used a block of wood and hammer to knock the axle through the hub since I could not do it by hand. Once the axle was completely through the hub there was nothing but the ball joint attaching the knuckle to the car. The bolt and nut attaching the knuckle to the ball joint are both 14mm. After removing that bolt I put a block of wood under the knuckle and used a punch and hammer to knock the ball joint down and out of the knuckle.
  13. Next, I was ready to start. While at harbor freight I also bought a 1/2" drive 25" long breaker bar and 32mm socket to break the axle nut loose. That little wrench was not close to being strong enough to do the job. I ended up cheating and using a milwaukee fuel 3/4" drive impact gun but a 3/4" drive breaker bar will also do it. I broke it loose while the tire was on the ground, as I did for the lug nuts. Then I lifted the tire off the ground via floor jack under the frame. Once the tire was off the ground, I removed the lug nuts, wheel, and the axle nut. After that, I used a 17mm wrench to re
  14. I decided to make this thread after doing a ton of research on here and not finding the answers to all of my questions. I also want to say that I attempted to follow the steps in this video but ran into some issues that think others might also encounter. I will discuss them. After reading several threads on626 wheel bearing replacement I did not quite have a full understanding of how the knuckle and hub are involved with each other. I will get to that as well. First, I bought two front wheel bearings from Oreilly's for $35 each. I also rented a tie rid e
  15. Bolt is out and I was able to get a new bolt to hold at 50 in/lbs after just running a tap through the hole. No helicoil needed! I will be making a 90 mile trip Friday and will know then if the OEM gaskets did the trick.
  16. Bad news for me as I have been wrestling with a bolt broke off in the head. I have drilled it all the way through as big as I dare and can not get it to budge with vice grips, extractors and a torch. I'm not sure what to do about it other than keep drilling and helicoil it.
  17. Im almost mid way through the bew gasket job. Now that the manifold is off I took some pics of the firewall side of the head and confirmed that my burning oil/smoke issue is coming from the VCG gaskets. You can see where it has been dripping right onto the manifold. This time I am going to follow the manual recommendation and use rtv on the entire surface of the VCG gaskets, as well as the grommets.
  18. Im not saying for SURE its the gaskets, but I can see a fresh sheet of oil covering the motor directly beneath the gaskets. Its also all around the top of the timing belt cover. Hell, in this pic you can see where its even coming up around the VCG bolts and puddling on the cover. There was no oil there before I went on a 25 minute drive. Keep in mind these are ebay gaskets which people on here vouched for in past threads. I'm definitely not saying its for sure the gaskets, but I did everything per instruction of the manual. I will know next saturday after I do it all over again with OEM g
  19. Thanks but I know the torque specs. I am looking for the torque sequence.
  20. Aleekat, I can not find the valve cover bolt torque sequence in there. Were you able to find it?
  21. Thanks. I broke the oil pressure sensor so I will have to wait to drop the radiator back in till tomorrow. With whe splash guard off its easy to see the oil leaking from the VCG's. Its actually leaking so much oil that its keeping part of the block clean.
  22. I feel bad for making that previous reply. I am making one more attempt to fix the VCG leak. I am replacing the alternator tonight because it finally died from being soaked in leaking engine oil. I just ordered OEM VCG gaskets from mazda and am taking the car to a friend's garage in 2 weeks so that he can supervise me working. He was a BMW tech for many years. The only thing different about this job from the last few gasket replacements I did will be that I am using OEM gaskets instead of aftermarket and using a new torque wrench for the bolts just in case the other one I used was off. To
  23. The new valve has made no difference. It is now leaking more than a quart every 200 miles. I am throwing in the towel and getting rid of the car. I've been fighting this problem for two years and with what I have spent on oil I could have put towards a used civic or camry.
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