ddq

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About ddq

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  1. Guys, I am really frustrated with my car. I am so fed up with this VCG issue that I am ready to sell the the car. Everything about the car is in great working shape and I would love to keep it as a daily driver but I am ready to smash it with a sledge. its an 01 with the 2.5. I have changed the VCG's four times in the last 2 years. They continue to leak oil on the headers and if I drive the car more than an hour it smokes so bad that it looks like a camp fire is burning under the hood. The car leaks about a quart of oil every 400 miles. I have done the VCG's by the book the last two times. I used new gaskets I bought off ebay, put RTV in the places the manual says to and torqued the bolts to spec. I even tried a different RTV the last time and swtiched from red to black. What could I be doing wrong? Is this something a dealer should be able to figure out? I cant imagine it is common for the covers to warp, is it?
  2. 01 mazda 626 running hot

    It seems like I solved this issue by simply filling the coolant ressy to the brim when cold. So, the reservior being half full when cold is not enough coolant for the system to work efficiently. Later out.
  3. I have an 01 626 with the 2.5. On days over 90 degrees with the AC running the car has started running warm. It doesn't matter if I am idling or cruising 70 mph down the highway. Yesterday, obdII readings indicate the factory gauge starts creeping up from normal at around 221 degrees and I let it get up to 240 degrees before turning off the AC, in which case it slowly drops down to normal around 221-224. At 240 degrees the gauge is about 4/5 to the way to the danger zone. I changed the water pump when I bought the car last fall so it should be good. Both fans are working correctly. The coolant ressrvior is half full when cold. I bought a t stat today which I will change this weekend and then report back. The cap on the coolant rezzy has a spring and rubber seal and the cap near the oil check stick has nothing but a rubber seal. Is that correct?
  4. Can someone ID this part?

    Thanks Nick, I found one at a salvage yard.
  5. I broke the vacuum hose nipple on the under side of this part and need to replace it but can not find this part at a parts store or on ebay, probably because I don't know what it's called. 01 626 2.5L
  6. So the cylinder head surface pretty much needs a bead of rtv all the way around? What about the valve cover surface?
  7. Dang. Can anyone tell me what sides and spots need rtv for the 2.5L?
  8. About 3 weeks ago I changed my front and rear VCG's. My car continued to leak lots of oil and I assumed it was the camshaft plugs. Today I went to replace them and discovered the new valve cover gaskets leaking badly. With the motor running I can see oil seeping out from three corners on the front cover and at least two corners on the rear. I snuggled them up after initial replacement and today I tightened them as much as I dared (probably 5-10 ft lbs) and they still leak. I don't know what I did wrong. Is it the cheap ebay gaskets? Did I not torque the bolts in the correct sequence? I did not use any RTV but I made sure both surfaces were clean. I'm dreading repeating this job and I DEFENITELY don't want to be doing it a third time.
  9. Oil Leak

    I just had the timing belt off and didn't notice a leak around the crank. However, today I could see oil leaking from both camshaft plugs so I'll replace those and hopefully that will at least slow the leak down.
  10. Thanks! I ended up getting a slightly smaller one from a ford dealership and was able to make it fit. I'll write that part number down for my records.
  11. Oil Leak

    My 01 626 is leaking quite a bit of oil. It's all over the passenger side of the motor. Every night it makes a puddle about the size of a baseball. I changed both VCG's and the leak has continued. Where else is it likely to be leaking from?
  12. My motor is different than yours. I still suspect that lie goes to either a vacuum canister under the intake or the vris accuator.